IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


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Hiotographic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


% 


tJP 


C^'. 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  canadien  de  microreproductions  historiques 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes/Notes  techniques  et  bibliographiques 


The  Institute  has  attempted  to  obtain  the  best 
original  copy  available  for  filming.  Features  of  this 
copy  which  may  be  bibliographically  unique, 
which  may  alter  any  of  the  images  in  the 
reproduction,  or  which  may  significantly  change 
the  usual  method  of  filming,  are  checked  below. 


L'Institut  a  microfilm^  le  meilleur  exemplaire 
qu'il  lui  a  dtd  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  details 
de  cet  exemplaire  qui  sont  peut-dtre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibliographique,  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  reproduite,  ou  ^ui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  m^thode  normale  de  filmage 
sont  indiquds  ci-dessous. 


n/ 


Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 


I      I    Covers  damaged/ 


D 


D 


7 


D 


Couverture  endommag^e 

Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaur6e  et/ou  pelliculde 


I      I    Cover  title  missing/ 


Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 


□    Coloured  maps/ 
Cartes  g6ographiques  en  couleur 

□    Coloured  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 

I      I    Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 


D 


Planches  et/ou  illustrations  en  couleur 

Bound  with  other  material/ 
Relid  avec  d'autres  documents 

Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

La  reliure  serr6e  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
distortion  le  long  de  la  marge  intdrieure 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  ajoutdes 
iors  d'une  restauration  apparaissent  dans  le  texte, 
mais,  lorsque  cela  6tait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  6t6  film^es. 

Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  suppldmentaires; 


D 


Coloured  pages/ 
Pages  de  couleur 


□    Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommagdes 

□    Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Pages  restaurdes  et/ou  pelliculdes 

I — I    Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 


Pages  ddcolordes,  tachet^es  ou  piqudes 

Pages  detached/ 
Pages  d6tach6es 


QShowthrough/ 
Transparence 

□    Quality  of  print  varies/ 
Qualitd  in^gale  de  I'impression 

I      I    Includes  supplementary  material/ 


Comprend  du  matdriel  supplementaire 

Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Edition  disponible 


r~T]    Pages  wholly  pr  partially  obscured  by  errata 
ly  I    slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  refilmed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  pages  totalement  ou  partiellement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuillet  d'errata,  une  pelure, 
etc.,  ont  6t6  filmdes  d  nouveau  de  fagon  d 
obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  filmi  au  taux  de  reduction  indiqud  ci-dessous. 

10X  14X  18X  22X 


12X 


J 


16X 


20X 


26X 


30X 


24X 


28X 


32X 


I 

tails 
t  du 
odifier 
'  une 
mage 


The  copy  filmed  here  has  been  reproduced  thanks 
to  the  generosity  of: 

La  Bibliothdque  de  la  Ville  de  Montrwal 


The  images  appearing  here  are  the  b^st  quality 
possible  considering  the  condition  and  legibility 
of  the  original  copy  and  in  keeping  with  the 
filming  contract  specifications. 


L'exemplaire  film6  fut  reproduit  grice  d  la 
g6n6rosit6  de: 

La  Bibliotheque  de  la  Ville  de  Montreal 


Les  images  suivantes  ont  6t6  reproduites  avec  le 
plus  grand  soin,  compte  tenu  de  la  condition  et 
de  la  nettetd  de  l'exemplaire  filmi,  et  en 
conformity  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat.de 
filmage. 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


Les  exemplaires  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  imprimde  sont  film6s  en  commen9ant 
par  le  premier  plat  et  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration,  soit  par  le  second 
plat,  selon  le  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  film6s  en  commen^ant  par  la 
premidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  — ^  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  y  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 


Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparaitra  sur  la 
dernidre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symbole  -^^  signifie  "A  SUIVRE",  le 
symbols  V  signifie  "FIN". 


Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  6tre 
filmds  d  des  taux  de  reduction  diffdrents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  dtre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  clich6,  il  est  filmd  i^  partir 
de  Tangle  supdrieur  gauche,  de  gauche  d  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  ndcessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  mdthode. 


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AMERTOAN    HOUSE, 


HYDEPARK, 


VT. 


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This  popular  Jind  commodious  Hotel  is  located  in  the  Shire- 
Town  and  gco^rapiiical  and  business  centre  of  Lamoille 
County,  in  the  very  heart  of  the  grandest  Green  Mountain 
Scenery.  Its  location  gives  it  a  command  of  scenic  views  on- 
ly second  to  Mount  Manslleld  itself.  It  has  large  airy  rooms 
and  will  conveniently  accommodate  one  hundred  guests.  It 
has  an  elcgnnt  hall  and  spacious  parlors.  It  is,  at  the  present, 
terminus  of  the  P.  &  O.  II.  R.  about  80  rods  from  Depot,  to 
and  from  which  passengers  are  always  conveyed  free  of 
cliarge. 

A  good  livery  is  connected  with  the  house,  and  the  tourist 
will  find  the  proprietor  always  ready  to  serve  him  for  mod- 
erate pay. 

Charges  for  transient  persons  two  dollars  per  day,  with 
liberal  deductions  to  Season  boarders. 

To  persons,  or  families,  wishing  to  spend  the  Season,  or  a 
few  days,  in  a  quiet,  wholesome  home,  where  they  may  re- 
ceive kindly  attentions,  for  reasonable  pay,  this  house  is  be- 
lieved to  offer  many  inducements— No  Bar.  See  further 
notice  of  locality  on  page  177.  References  and  further  infor- 
mation cheerfully  given. 

E.  B.  SAWYER,  Proprietor. 


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HOTELS. 


ST.  LOUIS  HOTEL, 

ST.    LOUIS    STREET, 

WII.I.IS    RUSSELL,    -      -      -     PROPRIETOR. 


This  Hotel,  which  is  unrivalled  for  size,  style  and  locaUty^ 
in  Quebec,  is  open  through  the  year  for  pleasure  and  business 
travel. 

It  is  eligibly  situated  near  to,  and  suiTounded  by  the  most 
delightful  and  fashionable  promenades, — the  Governor's 
Garden,  the  Citadel,  the  Esplanade,  the  Place  d'Armes,  and 
Durham  Terrace — which  furnish  the  splendid  views  and 
magnificent  scenery  for  which  Quebec  is  so  justly  celebrated, 
ana  which  is  unsurpassed  in  any  part  of  the  world. 

The  proprietor,  in  returning  thanks  for  the  very  liberal 
patronage  hitherto  enjoyed,  informs  the  public  that  this 
Hotel  has  been  Enlakged  and  Refitted,  an(^  can  now  ac- 
commodate five  hundred  visitors;  and  assures  them  that 
nothing  will  be  wanting  on  his  part  that  will  conduce  to  the 
comfort  and  enjoyment  of  his  guests. 


CORNER  ANN  &  GARDEN  STS., 
UPPER  TOWN,  QUEBEC. 

This  modem  built  Hotel  is  now  open  as  an  auxiliary  to  the  ST.  LOUIS  HOTEL, 
49-  TERIUS    inODEBATi:. 

WILLIS  RUSSELL,  Proprietor. 


Concord  Coaches  mn  to  and  Ik'om  Brandon  Station. 


Telegraph  ottice  cuuuuciuii  with  the  Uuuae.    hot  lull  description  ace  page  185. 


talion. 


ADVERTISEMENT. 


il^ki 


m 


d 


0 


9 

a 


le  page  185. 


-CriTZTED     STATBS 


AND 


Proprietors'  Office,  30  &  W  Court  Square,  BOSTON. 


Afjcncy  Offices  at  all  prmcipal  Stations  on  the  following  Roads: 

Boston,  Clinton  &  Fitchburg;  Boston,  Concord  &  Montreal ; 
Central  Vermont;  Cheshire;  Concord;  Concord  &  Clare- 
mont;  Concord  &  Portsmouth ;  Connecticut  &  Passumpsic; 
Contoocook  Valley;  Fitchburg;  Fitchburg  &  Worcester; 
Framingham  &  Lowell;  Manchester  &  l^awrence;  Mansfield 
&  Framingham;  Massawippi  Valley;  Missisquoi;  Monad- 
nock;  Montreal  &Champlain;  Montpelier  &  Wells  River; 
Montreal  &  Vt.  Junction;  Nashua  &  Lowell;  NorchernN.  H. 
— Bristol  Branch;  Ogdensburg  &  Lake  Champlain;  Portland 
&  Ogdensburg  (Vermont  Division)  ;  llutland  &  15urlington ; 
South  Eastern ;  Sullivan;  Suncook  Valley  ;  Stanstead,  Shef- 
ford  &  Chambly;  Troy  &  Greenfield;  Vermont  «&  Canada; 
Vermont  &  Massachusetts — Brattleboro  Branch,  Turner's 
Falls  Branch;  White  Mountains ;  Worcester  «&  Nashua. 


FORWARDED  BY    OTHER    EXPRESSES 

To  all  Accessible  Parts  of  the  World. 


-TT 


4  ADVERTISEMENT. 

TRADE  MARK : 

•'THE   CONCORD   HARNESS." 

DO  YOU  WANT  A  NEW  HARNESS? 

If  so,  before  you  buy,  consult,  either  in  person  or  by  letter, 

with 

JAMES  R  HILL  <&  CO. 

CONCORD,  N.  H., 

The  only  makers  of  the  celebrated 


Which  are  the  best  to  be  had. 
All  our  Harnesses  are  made  by  hand. 

Every  part  of  each  Harness  made  IN  OUR  OWN  SHOP. 

Every  Harness  made  FROM  THE  BEST  SELECTED 
STOCK. 

Every  Harness  HAND-STITCHED,  CUSTOM-MADE  and 
WARRANTED  TO  BE  AS  REPRESENTED. 

IF  YOU  WANT 

A  Fine  Carriag^e  Harness^ 
A  FInv!  Buffiiry  fflarnesw, 
I       A  Fine  Driving-  Ilarn«Mi«i, 

A  Fine  Hai-ii.  or  f^oacli  Harness, 

A  Good  Exprt'SM  Ilarnessy  ..    . 

A  Cvood  Store  Harness, 

A  Good  Livery  Harness* 

A  Good  Tt^am  Harness, 

A  C>ood  Business  Harness, 

A  Strong  Work  Harness,  or 

A  Harness  off  any  kind. 

Bend  us  your  ordora  at  once  or  cotne  in  person  and  see  ns.  Every  Harness  is 
niade  un«ler  our  own  personal  supervision.  The  test  of  every  climate  from  Eu8t 
to  West,  and  from  between  North  and  South  proves  them  to  be  unequalletJ.  Be 
sure  and  see  us  or  write  to  us  before  you  buy.  YOU  CAN  SAVK  MONEY  AND 
GET  A  BBTrBll  HARNESS. 

For  prices,  circulars,  or  any  information  concerning  Harness, 

Address  JAMES  R.  HILL  &  CO.,  Concord,    N.  H. 


■See  remarks  about  "  THE  CONCORD  HARNESS,"  in  Descriptive  CircnlAr, 
pages  44  and  45.    Be  sure  and  read  it. 


3  363'^" 


KEYES'  HAND-BOOK 


o  U 


OP 


Northerg  Pleasure  Travel: 


TO  THE 


WHITE  AND  FRANCOKIA  MOUNTAINS, 

THE    NORTHERN    iAKES    AND    RIVERS, 

MONTIS  EAL,    qUEBEC, 

AND  THE 

ST.  LAWRENCE  AND  SAGUENAY  RIVERS. 

HOW  TO  REACH  THEM  BY  PLEASANT  ROUTES.  VIA  THE  MERRIMACK 
AND  CONNECTICUT  VALLEYS,  AND  CONNECTING  LINES  OF  TRAVEL. 


•y  Harnese  is 
ite  from  Xatit 
'qualleJ.  Bo 
lONEY  AND 


"  Oil  Nature !  a'  thy  shows  and  forms 
To  fueling,  pensive  hearts  hue  charms ! 

"  It  is  a  fresh  and  rare  land, 
A  rugged,  bold  and  bare  land, 
A  loyal,  true  and  rare  land— 
This  mountain  land  of  ours." 


Burnt. 


BOSTON: 

GEO.  L.  KEYES,  PUBLISHER,  4  WILLIAMS  COURT. 

1874. 


. 


1 


fr 


T 


PREFACE 


In  this  '•  age  of  travel"  the  Guide  Book  becomes  as  useful  in  the 
portmanteau  of  the  tourist  as  the  lexicon  in  the  library  of  the 
scholar  ;  and,  for  this  reason,  we  need  not  apologize  for  the  issue 
of  this  Hand  Book.  That  it  may  prove  a  reliable  guide  to  such  as 
wisely  spend  their  season  of  recreation  among  the  hills  and  by  the 
lakes  and  streams  of  the  Gigantic  Commonwealth,  or  extend  their 
trip  into  the  Canadas  or  along  connecting  ways  of  travel,  has  been 
the  aim  of  the  author. 

Not  pretending  to  rare  literary  merit,  and  hoping  we  have  found 
the  happy  medium  between  thedry  details  of  simple  directions  and 
tabular  statements,  and  the  prolixiiy  of  elaborate  works,  we  grate- 
fully acknowledge  the  aid  of  the  valuable  and  friendly  written  works 
of  Starr  King,  Willey,  Eastman  and  others,  and  give  our  little  work 
into  the  hands  of  the  travelling  public  who  have  so  liberally  pat- 
ronized a  previous  edition,  ^ 

THE  AUTHOR. 

Boston,  April  1st,  1874, 


Entered  according  to  act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1874,  by  Geo.   L,  Keyes, 
in  the  office  of  the  Librarian  of  Congress,  at  Washington. 


THE     CLAREMONT     MANUFACTURING     COMPANY, 
PAPER   MAKERS,   PRINTERS  AND   BINDERS, 
CLAREMONT,   N.    H. 


CONTENTS. 


PAQI. 

Distances,  Elevations  and  Hotels. 

CHAPTER           I.    Routes,  &c 17 

CHAPTER         II.    Northern  Pleasure  TuAVEL..  39 

CHAPTER        in.    Lake  Winnipesaukee 50 

CHAPTER        IV.    Northward  from  the  Lake..  60 

CHAPTER          V.    Franconia  Range 80 

CHAPTER         VI.    White  Mt.  Range 94 

CHAPTER       VII.    From  Mt.  Washington,  or  the 

Crawford  House,  to  North 

Conway  or  the  Glen  House  1 16 

CHAPTER     VIII.    No.  Conway  and  Surround'gs.  125 

CHAPTER        IX.    Around  Gorham 131 

CHAPTER          X.    Historical  and  Descriptive..  134 
CHAPTER        XI.    Northward  to  Canada— Mon- 
treal   137 

CHAPTER       XIL    Quebec 149 

CHAPTER     XIII.    Saguenay  River 161 

CHAPTER     XIV.    Northern  Vermont 168 

CHAPTER       XT.    Portland  &  Ogdensburg  R.  R.  176 
CHAPTER     XVI.    Wells   River  to   Montpelier 

AND  Westward 180 

CHAPTER    XVII.    Saratoga  to  Mountains 184 

CHAPTER  XVIII.    Niagara  Falls  to  White  M'ts.  196 
MAP  of  Routes  to  the  White  Mountains,  Mon- 
treal AND  Quebec 1 

"        The  White  Mts.,  with  List  of  Summer 

Boarding  Houses  and  Hotels 39 

•*        The  Saguenay  and  St.  Lawrence  Rivers.  .  160 
**        The  Routes  to  Saratoga  and  the  White 

Mountains 180 

Time  Tables 224-229 


'■    f 


7 


INDEX. 


PAOX. 

Alton  Bay,  N.  H 58 

Aminonusuc  River 99 

Artist's  Falls 128 

Ascent  of  Bald  Mountain 85 

"         Copple  Crown 57 

"         Moosilauk 66 

"         Mount  FiafayAtte 88 

"         Mount  Prospect 63 

"         Mt.  Washington 95,  99 

••         Mt.  Washington  by  rail...  100 
"         Mt.  Wash,  by  carriage  r'd  100 

"         Mt.  Willard 112 

"         "Owls  Head" 174 

"         Red  Hill 55 

Ashland,  N.  H 61 

Bartlett 118 

Basin 89 

B.,  C.&  M.  R.R 47 

Beecher's  Falls  Cascade 110 

Bethlehem,  N.  H 69 

Boarding  Houses  and  Hotels,  see  maps. 

Boston,  routes  from  to  Mts 30,35 

Boston  &  Maine  R.  R 35 

Boston  to  Canada,  routes 30,  35 

Boston,  Ms 37 

Bradford,  Vt 

Brandon,  Vt 184 

BurlinRton,  Vt 183 

Caldwell 190 

Campton,  N.  H 65 

Cannon  MountHin 84 

Cascades,  Franconia  Mountains 90 

Cathedral,  Natural,  No.  Conway 127 

Cathedral  of  Notre  Dame. 143 

Cathedral.  Montreal 143 

Central  Vermont  Railroad 184 

Centre  Harbor,  N.  H 53 

Cherry  Mountain 78 

Chucorua 129 

Colebrook,  N.  H 78 

Concord,  N.  H 41 

Concord  to  the  Monntains,  route...    45 

Conway,  N.  H 129 

Conway,  North 125 

Conway,  through  the  Notch 116 

Copple  Crown  Mountain 57 

Crawford  House 108 

Crawford  Notch HO 

Crawfords,  The 135 

Crystal  Cascade 122 

Levil's  Den 128 

Diana's  Bath 128 

Distances 11 

Dixville  Notch 79 

Down  the  St.  Lawrence 145 

Dunmore,  Lake 185 

Eagle  Cliflf. 83 

Echo  Lake,  Franconia  Notch 81 

Echo  Lake,  North  Couway 127 

ElevatioiM 16 


PAOI 

• 

Emerald  Pool 121 

Fabyan  House  and  Station 71,  98 

Falls,  Ammonusuc 99 

••      Artist's 128 

"      Gibbs 110 

"      Glen  Ellis 122 

"      Harvard 92 

"      Montmorenci 155 

"      on  Avalanche  Brook 114 

Flume,  Crawford  Notch 113 

"      Dixville  Notch 90 

**      Franconia  Notch 90 

"      House,  Franconia 90 

Framingham,  Mass 24 

Franconia  Mountains 80 

Franconia,  N.  H 68 

Franconia  Notch 81 

Garnet  Pools... 121 

Glens  Falls 188 

Glen  House  and  Glen 119,  120 

Gorham,  N.  H.,  and  vicinity 131 

Gorham  to  the  Notch 132 

Grand  Trunk  Railway 78 

'^reatGulf. 123 

juildhall,  Vt , 78 

Hartford,  Conn 26 

iiOli  vvftto* •••••••••••••■•••*••••••      19 

Hills'  Harnesses 43 

Historical  and  Descriptive 124 

Hotel  Tablet 13,14 

Hydepark,  Vt 176 

Imp  Mountain 131 

Island  Pond 137 

Island  Pond  House 1.37 

Islands  of  Winnipesaukee 50 

Jackson,  N.  H 118 

Jefferson  Hills 57 

JefTerson,  N.  H i:» 

Kiarsarge  House 125 

K  iarsarge  M  t 1 26 

Lachine  Rapids 145 

Laconia,  N.  H 43 

"  Lady  of  the  Lako  "  boat 51 

Lake  Chaniplain 191 

Lake  Dunmore  Huut^e 185 

Lake  George 190 

Lake  Memphrenmgof;,  trip  on 172 

Lake  Village,  N.H 48 

Lake  Winnipesaukee *    50 

Lancaster,  N  H 73 

Lawrence,  Masi? 35 

Lincoln,  N.  H 

List  of  Boarding  Houses,  see  maps. 

Littleton,  N.  H 67 

Long  Island  Sound 19 

Lowell,  Mass 30 

Lunenburg,  Vt 73 

Magog.  Lake  Meniphreraagog 175 

Manchester,  N.  H 33 

Meredith  Village 60 


INDEX. 


9 


PAOE. 

lerrimack  River 40 

liddlebury.  Vt 187 

lontcrtliii  Old  Home 156 

lontpelier,  Vt 179 

lontreHl 138 

lontrenl  llmisn 140 

[oosehillock  Mouiitai n 66 

luuut  Adams 123 

"      A^hbhIz  llonst*.... 70 

"      Chiy 

♦'       Hayei. 131 

••      Jfffersoii 123 

•'      MiuliHon 123 

"      Mftnsfi.'M 177 

"      Muusfield  HoutJO 182 

"      Moriali 131 

"      Peabody 99 

"       Peinigowa.SHet 93 

"       Prospect 

"      Surprlso....   132 

*•      Wasbington 99 

"                "            carriage  ruaJ..  100 

"               "            House 104 

"               "            in  winter. 108 

"                ••            Railway 100 

"  "  Steamer 

"               "            Snrnmit  view..  106 

"                "            tbe  descent....  102 

"      Wllley 107 

Mt.  Willard,  drive  to  stimniit  of  ...  112 

Norwich  Udo  of  Steamers 20 

New  Haven,  Conn 25 

Newport,  U.  I 28 

Newport,  Vt 171 

New  York  City  ami  vicinity 17 

New  York,  roiituH  from 20-27 

Niagara  Falls  route 196 

North  Conway.  N.  11 125 

North  Conway,  to  and  from 125 

Northumberland  Junction 78 

Norwich,  Conn 21 

Notch,  Dixville 79 

Notch,  White  Mt,  and  vicinity 110 

Old  Man  of  Mountain 85 

Pnssumppic  River  Railroad 168 

Peabody  River 121 

Pemigewasset  Hou-^e 61 

Pemigewa*<8et  River  and  Valley....  65 

Pequaket  Mountain  or  Kiarsarge..  126 

Phenix  House,  Concord 44 

Pilot  Hills 131 

Pinkham  Notch 119 

Plains  of  Abraham 158 

Plymouth,  N.  H 61 

Pool,  Franconia  Notch 92 

Preface 6 

PVofile  House  and  vicinity 69 

Profile  Mountain  and  Lake 87 

Profile  (stone  face) 86 

Providence,  R.  1 28 

ProTidence,  routes  from 28 


PVOI. 

Queboc,  city  of 149 

Randolph  Hill 131 

Red  Hill 55 

Richmond,  P.  Q 138 

Routes,  all  rail 27 

Koutes,  boat  and  rail 24 

Rutland,  Vt 181 

Saco  River 117 

Saco  Valley    113 

Saguenay  River  and  route 168 

St.  Jobnsbiiry.  Vt. 165 

St.  I..awrenco  Rivt-r 144 

Saratoga  route 189 

Sawyer's  Rook 113 

Silver  Cascade 117 

Sound  Steamer. « 15 

Southeastern  Railway 176 

Springfield,  Mhhh 23 

Squani  Lake 63 

Starr  King  Mountain 70 

Steamer  "Lady  of  the  Lake" 60 

Stowe.  Vt 181 

Thornton.  N.  H on 

Ticonderoga 191 

Tip- Top  House 104 

Tuckerman's  Ravine 122 

Twin  Mountain  llouije  97 

Van  Ness  House,  Uurlingtnu,  Vt...  194 

Vergennes,  Vt 187 

Victoria  Bridge 141 

Views  from  Muosebiilit,  k  Summit..  66 

"         Mount  Belknap 49 

"         Mount  VViishington....  104 
"          Mount      Pequaket     or 

Kiarsarsre 128 

"         Prospect  Hill 63 

"         RedHill 55 

View  of  the  Profile 86 

View  from  Lafayette 88 

"       Waumbek  llou.se 78 

"       Fabyan  House 72 

Warren,  N.  H 66 

Waterbury,  Vt 181 

Waumbek  House .  76 

Weirs  (Lake  Station) 49 

Wells  River,  Vt 179 

Wells  River  &  Montpeiior  K.  K....  178 

Whitefield,  N.  H 72 

White  Mountains  geiieal  view....  94 

White  Mountain  Ilou.-'e 99 

White  Mountain  Notch 110 

White  River  .lunctiou 

Willev  House Ill 

Willoughby  Lake 170 

Wing  Railway 69 

Winnipesaukee  Lake 50 

Winter  above  the  Cloud.-^ 108 

Wolfeborough 57 

Wolfe,  General 159 

Woodstock,  N.  H 65 

Worcester..... 96 


INDEX  TO  ADVERTISEMENTS. 


Booktellers,  Publishers  and  Ira- 

porters 225 

Card  and  Glazed  Paper  -  •  234 
Dry  Ooods,  idilks  aud  Gloves  «  Zil 
Dictiunaries  -  -  -  236  237 
Engraviugs      ....         238 

Furs 231 

Grand  Trunk  Railway,  3d  p.  of  cover. 
Ga'axy 236 


HOTELS. 

American  House         Ist  inside  cover  p. 

-  217 
207 

-  207 
204 

-  20G 
208 

4th  p.  of  cover. 
2U5 


Bangor  House 
Buck's  Hotel      - 
Belvue  House 
Colonnade  Hotel 
Dixon  House 
Fitch's  Hotel     • 
Fabyan  House 
Grant's  Hotel    - 
Kiarsarge  House 
Lake  Dun  more  House 
Lynde's  Hotel 
National  House 
Old  Orchard  House 
Parker  House    ■ 
Preble  House 


2 
210 
212 
202 
212 
2{X) 


Queen's  Hotel    - 
Rockingham  House 
Sanborn  House 
Sinclair  House 
Spring  Hotel 
St.  Louis  Hotel 
Town's  Hotel 
The  Grand  Pacific 
Wassaunikeag  House 
Wachussett 
White  River  Hotel    • 
Windsor  House     • 


201 
212 

■      210 

213 

1 

215 

203 

16,16 
214 
212 

'      208 


Harper's  Publications  -  -  240 
Harness  Manufacturers  -  -  4,  230 
Jewelers      -      -        -        -        .  231 

Montreal  and  Boston  Air  Line  218  221 
Marble  DeaJerg      ....      2J3 

Nursery 237 

Organs 229 

Providence  and  White  Mts.Ex.Llne.  22-2 
Quebec  and  Gulf  Port  S.  S.  Co.  -  19'J 
North  Conway,  West  Ossipi-e  and 

Centre  Harbor  Stage  Line        -      223 
Scribner's  Monthly  -        -         239 

Tailors 232 

U.  S.  Canada  Express        -       .  3 


RAILWAY    GUIDE. 

THE    TRAVELER'S   HAND    BOOK 

TO  ^  i 

All  Railway  &  Steamboat  Lines  of  North  America. 

COURECTED  AND  ISSUED  MONTHLY. 
Giving  Lists  of  General  Officers,  Latest  Time  Tables,  Complete  Lists  Stations, 

AND  TICKET  FARES  OP  ALL  ROUTES. 

Illustrated  by  a  Mugniflcent  Colored  Map  of  the  United  States  and  Canada,  and 

by  Sp«-cial  Maps  of  all  Principal  Railway  Lines.   It  also  gives  the  Population, 

as  shown  by  the  Govenmient  Census,  of  every  Railroad  and  River  Town 

within  the  United  States  and  Canada,  with  a  full  aiitl  accurate 

Description  of  their  Geographical  Situation,  Chief  Objects  of 

Interest,  Commercial  Iui[.ortance  and  Hotel  Acconimodationa. 

SOLD  BY  NEWSDEALERS.    PRICE  40otS. 

BAND.McNALLT  &  CO.,  79  &  81  Madison  St.,  Chicagro. 


rs. 


•           u 

-      201 

- 

212 

•             • 

-      210 

•               m 

213 

• 

1 

• 

215 

• 

-      203 

"                • 

16,16 

- 

-      214 

- 

212 

- 

-      208 

. 

240 

J 

-  4,  2:50 

- 

231 

lir  Liue 

218  221 

•               » 

-      233 

. 

237 

• 

229 

tfts.Ex.Line.  222 

\.  S.  Co. 

-     199 

ssipee  ai 

id 

Line 

-      223 

. 

239 

• 

-      232 

*       • 

3 

Io'b. 


DOK 
America. 

Lists  Stations, 


nd  Canada,  and 
i  Population, 
iver  Town 
curate 
;t8  of 
tions.  t 


,  Chicago. 


ELEVATIONS  ABOVE  SEA  LEVEL, 

FKANCONIA  MOUNTAINS. 

FIET. 

fount  LafAyette 5,000 

lount  Cannon,  or  Profile  3Iouutaiu 3,500 

lilank 4,6;»6 

lerry  Mountain 3,670 

THE  WHITE  MOUNTAINS. 

fount  Washington 8,285 

fount  JefTerson 6,7(10 

fount  Adams 5,800 

fount  Munroo 5,400 

fount  Madison 5,4(X) 

fount  Clay 5,400 

fount  Frankli   4.900 

fount  Plea^ant 4,800 

fount  Clinton 4  200 

fount  Jackson 4,100 

Mount  Webster 4,000 

fount  VVillard  2.576 

Mount  Willey  4.300 

Mount  Carter 5,000 

fount  Moriah 4,700 

fount  Hayes 2,5<>0 

■>equuket  or  Kiarsarge  (at  North  Conway) 3,307 

>liuci>rua 3,358 

fount  Proai)ect  (near  Plymouth) 2,968 

»d  Hill  (near  Centre  flarbor) 2,508 

popple  Crown  Mount  (near  Wolfeborough) 2,100 

lAlpine  House — Oorhani 800 

Bethlehem— Village 1,450 

[Ji-awford  House 1,920 

Fabyan  House  1,551 

iFinnie  Houso 1,431 

lOlei)  House 1,632 

iPmfile  House— Franconia  Notch 1,974 

jWilley  flouse— White  Mountain  Notch 1,336 

[Bfount  Resolution 3,400 

Giant8  Stairs 3,500 

iMHrsbfieli  (or  Ammonusuc  Station )--foot  of  Mountain  Railway 2,615 

jPiiikham  r<fotch  (highest  point)  2,018 

(Franconia  Notch  (highest  point) 2,014 

[Plymouth 473 

iLancaster  860 

{Littleton 817 

[Conway  Intervales 471 

Concord  N.  H.  Depot 236 

[Lake  Winnipesaukee 496 

MOUNTAINS  IN  VERMONT. 

Mount  Mansfield 4,348 

Camel's  Hump 4,083 

[Jay  Peak 4,018 

Mount  Willoughhy 3,600 

Ascutney  (near  Windsor) 3,320 

MOUNTAINS  IN  CANADA. 

Owl's  Head,  near  Lake  Menipbremagog 2,749 

Bfount  Orford 3  3<JO 

Lake  Cliamplain 90 

Lake  Meniphrcmagog 634 

Lake  Willoughby 1,162 


!l!l 


•in! 


DISTANCES. 


VIA  BOSTON,  CONCORD  AND  MONTREAL  RAILROAD. 


To 

Northfleld,  N.  H.,  -  -  - 

liHConia,  N.  II.,  ... 

I'ilton,  N.  II.,       .  .  .  - 

Lake  VillaKe,  N.  H.,       • 

Weirs — Lake  Wiiinipesaukee  Station 

Centre  Harbor — 10  miles  by  boat 

Woll borough — 17  miles  by  boat 

North  Conway — via  Centre  Harbor,  by  boat, 

Meredith  Village,  N.  H., 

Ashland,  N.  II.,  ... 

Plymouth,  N.  H.,  ... 

Raraney,  N.  II.,  ... 

West  Rumney,  N.  H.,     - 

Wentworth,  N.  U.,         • 

Warren,  N.  H.,  ... 

Ilayerhill,  N.  H., 

Woodsville,  N.  II., 

Wells  River,  Yermont  (Junction  with  Passu 

Railways),  ... 

Bath,  N.  H., 
Lisbon,  N.  II. 
Littleton— 11  miles  staging  from  this  point  to  Profile 

House, 
Wing  Road  (diverges  from  Main  line), 
Bethlehem  (on  Wing  Railroad), 
Twin  Mountain  House  Station 
Whitefield,  N.  H., 
Dalton,  N.  U., 
Lancaster,  N.  H., 
Northumberland,  N.  H.,  (Junction  with  Grand  Trunk  Railway),  145 
North  Stratford,  N.  H.,  (on  Grand  Trunk  line,)        •  •  158 

Sherbrooke,  P.  Q.  (on  Grand  Trunk  junction  with  Passumpsic)   219 
Richmond,    P.   Q.    (on  Grand  Trunk   junction    with   Quebec 

division)  244 

Montreal,  -  - 320 

Quebec,  via  Northumberland    .....         340 
Montpelier,  Vt., )  via  Welis  River  and  new  line  to  Montpelier, 

nearly  completed),  .....         132 

Waterbury,  Vt.,  (via  Wells  River,  stage  to  Stowe,  Vt.,)       -         140 
Stowe,  Vt.,  (10  miles  staging  from  Waterbury),         -  -         150 

Newport,  Vt.,  (via  Passumpsic  Railroad  from  Wells  River),         158 
Lake  Memphremagog,  .....         153 

Essex  Junction,  Vt.,       ......         162 

Burlington,  Vt.,  ......         I68 


From  Concord.    From  Boston. 

Miles. 

Miles. 

13 

87 

27 

101 

18 

92 

27 

101 

34 

108 

44 

118 

61 

119 

stage  and  rail. 

75 

149 

38 

112 

46 

120 

61 

125 

69 

133 

62 

136 

67 

141 

70 

144 

85 

156 

93 

167 

mpsic  and  Montpelier 

"U 

"I^ 

104 

178 

to  Profile 

113 

187 

119 

193 

125 

199 

129 

203 

125 

199 

129 

203 

135 

209 

Hyde  Park,  Vt.,  (on  Vt.,  division  of  P.  M  O.  R.  R., 

Jobnsbury)  .  .  .  - 

St.  Johnsbury  on  Passampsie  R.  R.  R. 


west  from  St. 
165 
.      113>^ 


219 
232 
293 

318 
394 
414 

206 
214 
224 
232 
232 
236 
242 

199 
187  J^ 


HOTEL  TABLET. 


Place. 

Andover,  Mm»., 

Biingor,  Me., 

Boiiton,  Mus!)., 
it         i> 

ti         « 
Bellows  Falls,  Tt., 

.1  u 

Burlington,  Tt., 
It  >• 

Caldwell,  N.  Y., 

Ceutru  Harbor,  N.  H., 
II        It 

Clrcngo,  111., 

Clinton,  Mass., 

Colebrook,  N.  H., 

Ooucord,  N.  H., 
i>  tt 

Coiry,  Pa., 
Detroit,  Mich., 
Dover,  N.  II., 
Elkhart,  Ind., 
Fort  Edward,  N.  Y., 
Glens  Falls,  N.  ¥., 
Great  Falls,  N.  H., 
Hampton,  N.  H., 
Hart.ord,  Vt., 
Ilydepark,  Vt., 
Island  Pond,  Vt., 
Lake  Village,  N.  H., 
Lawrence.  Mass., 
Laconia,  N.  II., 
LennoxTille,  P.  Q., 
Louisville,  Ky., 
Lowell,  Mass., 
Lyndonville,  Vt., 
Manchester,  N.  H., 
Meredith  Village,  N.  H„ 
Montreal,  P.  Q., 
Milford,  Mass., 
Montpelier,  Vt., 
New  Bedford,  Haas  , 
Newbury,  Vt., 
Newport,  Vt., 
Newport,  N.  H. 
Newburyport,  Masg., 
Northampton,  Mass., 
North  Stratford,  N.  H., 
Philadelphia,  Pa., 
Pittsfield,  N.  H., 
Portland,  Me., 


Name. 

Mansion  House, 
Bangor  House, 
Clarendon  Hotel, 
American  House, 
Crawford  House, 
Towns'  Hotel, 
Island  House, 
American  House, 
Van  Ness  House, 
Ft.  Wm.  Henry  Hotel, 
Senter  House, 
Moulton  House, 
The  Grand  Pacific  Hotel, 
Clinton  House, 
Parson's  House, 
Phenix  Hotel, 
Eagle  Hotel, 
Empire  House, 
Russell  House, 
New  HampHhire  House, 
Clifton  House, 
St.  James  Hotel, 
Rockwell  House, 
Grant's  Hotel, 
Union  House, 
White  River  Hotel, 
American  House, 
Island  Pond  House, 
Mount  Belknap  House, 
Franklin  House, 
Laconia  House, 
Buck's  Hotel, 
Gait  House, 
Merriraac  House, 
Walker  House, 
Matiunul  House. 
Elm  House, 
Montreal  House, 
Milford  House, 
Bishop's  Hotel, 
Parker  House, 
Spring  Hotel, 
Memphremagog  House, 
Phenix  House, 
Ocean  House, 
Fitch's  II.  tel, 
Williard  House, 
Colonnade  Hotel, 
Washington  House, 
Preble  House, 


Prop,  and  Man. 

Charles  L.  Carter. 

0.  M.  Shaw. 

J.  Pickering  Draper. 

Lewis  Rice  &  Son. 

Btumcke  tt  Goodwin. 

Chas.  Towns. 
II         II 

H.  H.  Howe. 

D.  C.  Barber  A  Co. 
J.  Roesslo  &  Son. 
J.  L.  Huntress. 

8.  P.  Emery. 

Geo.  W.  Gage,  J.  A.  Rice. 

1.  W.  Cook. 

E.  F.  Bailey. 
J.  R.  Crocker. 
John  A.  White. 
C.  R.  Do  Burgh. 
Witbeck  A  Chittenden. 
W.  J.  Walker. 
Henry  ClHrk. 

J.  N.  Moore. 
Rockwell  Bros. 
Edmund  Grant. 
Smith  &  Whittier . 

C.  W.  Pease. 
E.B.  Sawyer. 
Bartlett  t  Stone. 

D.  B.  Story. 
T.  W.  Huse. 
Elkins  Bros. 
P.  P.  Buck. 

J.  P.  Johnson. 
Emery  &  Nute. 
G.  B.  Walker. 
Willey  A  Head, 
G.  M  Burleigh. 
Decker  &  Co. 
Hapgood  Brothers. 
H.  H.  Bishop. 
Bullock  A  Brownell. 
R.  W.  Chamberlain. 
W.  F.  Bowman. 
J.  H.  Brown. 
J.  P.  S.  Wescott. 
C.  F.  Simonds, 
£.  II.  Fulsoni. 
John  Crump. 
T.  B  Tucker. 
M.  8.  Gibson  ft  Co. 


H! 


ih 


7 


14 


HOTEL  TABLET. 


Portsmouth,  N,  II., 
Port  Huron,  Minb., 
Providence,  R^l., 
Quebec,  P.  Q., 

Rocbestor,  N.  II., 

Kocklmid,  Me., 

Rutluuil,  Vt., 

8nco,.Me.,0bl  Orcb'd  DMcb 

SHiiMltury,  Vt., 

S.indy  Hill,  N.  Y., 

gberbrouke,  P.  Q., 
ti  it 

South  Vernon,  Vt., 
Bpringfleld,  Mass., 
Stockton,  Mo.,  Fort  Point, 
St.  Jobnnbury,  Vt., 
Stowe.  Vt., 
Toronto,  Ont., 
Vergennee,  Vt., 
WaaiiinKton,  D.  0., 
WTatch  Hill.  R.  I., 
Westerly,  R.  I., 
Winooskl,  Vt., 
Windnor,  Vt., 
Wolfeborouph  June,  N.  11. 
Wulfeburougb,  N.  H., 


WilHamstown,  M.-isi., 
■Wincbenrton,  IMiies., 
WelU  Riv«r,  Vt., 
AVbifo  River  Ju  ction,  Vt 
West  Rutland,  Vt., 


Rockingham  II>iu«e, 
Huron  H'MiMe, 
Central  House, 
St.  liouis  Hotel, 
Russell  House, 
Dodge's  Hotel, 
Lynde's  Hotel, 
Herwick  House, 
,Old  Orcbai'd  House, 
Luke  Dunniore  Ilotol, 
Coffet)  House, 
Continental  Hotel, 
Sherbmoke  House, 
South  Vernon  House, 
M  tasuHoit  House,  , 
WiissunikenK  House, 
Avenue  Houxo, 
Mt.  Mansflcld  Hotel, 
Queen's  Hotel, 
btevens  House, 
The  Arlington, 
Plimpton  House, 
Dixon  House, 
Stevens  House, 
Windsor  House,^ 
,Siinborn  House, 
Pavilion  Hotel, 
Glcnden  Hotel, 
Belvue  House, 
Or<'ylock  Hull, 
Moiiiidiiock  House, 

jJiUKtion  House, 
Barnes  House, 


a.  W.  A  J.  S.  Pierce. 

UeofKO  Kuill. 

liopliiiis  &  Hears, 

Willis  Russell. 
>■  >> 

J.  T.  Podge. 

0.  A.  Lviicb. 

M.  K.  Hotcbkina. 

K.  C.  Staples. 

JR.  P.  Hitchcock. 

N.  W.  Clark. 

P.  A.  Caniirntid. 

W.  Chttuiljeriain. 

D.  L.  Pi  iest. 

M.  A  E.  P.  Cbapin. 

D.  W.  Ranlet 

Oeo.  H.  Aldrii-h. 

N.  P.  Koeler. 

Tbo.  McGiiw. 

S.  S.  Oiiiiios. 

T.  Roessiu  &  Son. 

A.  S.  Plimpton. 

A.  S.  Plimpton. 

J.  W.  Ceiley. 

J.  H.  Simonds. 

J.  W.  Prescott. 

K.  Stanton. 

J.  L.  Pcjivey. 

Daniel  Horn. 

Streefer  &  Swift. 

IF.  A.  Crocker. 

M.  G.  Slack. 

A.  T.  &  O.  F.  Parron. 

J.  H.  Iluzelton. 


WHITE  MOUNTAIN  HOTELS. 


Bethlehem,  N.  H., 

ti  .1 

Carroll,  N.  H., 


((  ti 

Conway,  N.  H., 
It  It 

Fraconia  Notch,  N.  II., 

Jefferson,  N.  II., 

Lancaster,  N.  li., 

Littleton,  N.  II., 
ti  it 

Mt.  Washington  Sum't, 
North  Couway,  N.  II., 


M 
M 
« 


it 
4t 

II 


Plymouth,  N.  IL, 
West  Ossipee,  N.  H., 
Warren,  N.  IL, 
Qorham,  N.  H., 


Sinclair  House, 
Prospect  House, 
Mt.  A7j;nssiz  House, 
Fabyaii  House, 
White  Mountain  House, 
Twin  Mountain  House, 
Crawford  House, 
Conway  House, 
Pequaket  House, 
Profile  House, 
Waumbeck  House, 
Laiicactur  House, 
Oak  Hill  House, 
Union  House, 
Mt.Washington,  Houf^e, 
Kiarsarge  House, 
Randall  Houne, 
Intervale  House, 
McMillan  House, 
Sunset  Pavilion, 
Miison  Hotel, 
PeraigewasBot  House, 
Bear  Camp  House, 
Moosilauk  House, 
Glen  House, 


J.  A.  Durgin    . 
Geo.  W.  Phillips, 
Cyrus  E.  Bunker. 
Liudsoy,  French  A  Co, 
Rounsvel  A  Co. 

A.  T.  A  0.  F.  Barron, 
it  II        It 

L.  H,  Eastman, 
D.  E.  Pendexter. 
Taft  A  Greenleaf. 
Merrill  A  Pluisted.; 

B.  H.  Coining. 
Geo.  Fair  A  Co. 
W.  JennisoD. 
J.  W.  Dodge. 

Thompson  Son  A  Andrews. 
J.  T.  Randall. 

Stephen  Mudgett  A  Sons. 
John  McMillan. 
M.  L.  Mason. 
F.  II.  Mason. 

C.  M.  Morse, 
J,  L,  Plummer. 


W,  A  C.  R.  Miliken. 


m 


)n  A  Andrews. 


HOTELS. 


15 


Wassaumkeag  Hotels 


D.  \V.   RANLET. 


STOOK:TOI^^,   IMS- 


In  latitude  44  degrees,  is  a  promontory  near  the  head  of  Pen- 
lobscot  Bay,  twenty-five  miles  from  Bangor,  which  commands 
[a  wide  and  picturesque  panorama  of  both  water  and  moun- 
tain scenery,  and  is  also  of  considerable  historic  interest. 


Fort  Point 


Has  long  been  a  popular  place  of  resort,  and  the  recent  con- 
jstruction  of  the  spacious   and   elegant  Hotel  offers  extra 
inducements  to  the  health  and  pleasure-seeking  public. 

The  Hotel  has  a  frontage  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet, 
contains  one  hundred  and  twenty-five  large  size,  high  studded 
and  well  ventilated  rooms  elegantly  furnished,  extra  wide 
halls,  with  all  the  modern  appointments  of  Gas  and  Steam 
Heat,  Salt  and  Fresh  Baths,  Billiards,  Bowling,  Telegraph 
Office,  Livery  Stable,  News-stand,  etc.,  and  was  especially 
designed  for  the  comfort  of  families  and  children,  while  its 


ff 


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16 


HOTELS. 


yerandas,  promenade  roof  and  cupola,  command  the  whole] 
panorama  of  Bay,  Islands  and  Mountains. 
A  short  distance  from  the  hous^  is 


Odam'g  Ledge, 


The  home  of  a  numerous  family  of  Seals,  whose  disportingsj 
are  an  unfailing  source  of  amusement. 

The  advantages  for  bathing,  sailing  and  fishing  (with  ex- 
perienced fisherman  or  skippers)  in  the  beautiful  bay,  or  driv- 
ing on  fine  roads  along  the  shore,  for  hunting  the  abundance  I 
of  game  in  the  ac^oining  forests,  together  with  the  shade! 
trees  or  groves,  fine  croquet  grounds,  entire  freedom  froml 
frogs,  mosquitos,  flies  and  other  pests,  accompanied  by  anl 
even  temperature,  with  the  best  water  on  the  coast,  and  pun\ 
drainage,  form  a  combination  of  inland  and  seashore  attrac- 
tions rarely  met  with.    The  facilities  for  obtaining  fresh  pun\ 
milk,  berries,  eggs  Jtnd  vegetables  from  the  adjacent  country,! 
and  clams,  lobsters,  salmon  and  other  varieties  of  fish  from! 
the  water  every  day,  are  such  as  to  make  the  table  peculiarlj| 
attractive. 

The  proprietor's  hotel  connections  in  New  York,  the  West,! 
and  the  past  five  years  at  the  White  Mountains,  N.  H.,  hel 
trusts  will  be  a  sufficient  guarantee  of  his  ability  to  properlyj 
care  for  the  comfort  and  amusement  of  his  guests. 

Tlie  special  rates  for  families  for  the  season  will  be  exceed- 
ingly low. 

Routes  from  Boston  via  Sanford's  Independent  Line  Steam-! 
ers,  at  5,00  p.  m.,  on  Mondays,  Tuesdays,  Thursdays  and  Fri- 
days. From  Bangor  and  Fort  Point  to  Boston,  on  Mondays,! 
Wednesdays,  Thursdays  and  Saturdays.  Via  Eastern  Rail  [ 
road  to  Portland,  thence  by  Portland,  Bangor  and  Machiasj 
Steamboat  Co.,  or  via  Maine  Central  to  Bangor,  thence  by! 
Ross  &  Howell's  boats,  which  ply  daily.  Boat  landings  within] 
thirty  rods  of  the  house. 

ID.  "W".  I?^.A.lTlLiET,  Proprietor.! 

Post  Cffl'Jo  address,  FORT  POINT  HOTEL,  STOCKTON,  ME. 


nd  the  whole 


CHAPTER  I. 


THE  START  FROM  NEW  YORK 


*•''••■■ 


nil  be  exceed- 


Many  who  gather  from  the  south  and  west  to  the  grand 
centre  of  the  nation,  as  well  as  actual  dwellers  therein,  will 
choose  to  take  the  initial  stage  of  their  journey  to  rural  and 
summer  retreats  by  boat-trip  through  Long  Island  Sound,  on 
some  one  of  the  safe  and  palatial  Steamers  running  in  con- 
nection with  the  railways  from  Norwich  (Allyn's  Point,)  Ston- 
ington,  Newport,  Providence,  or  Fall  River — through-lines  to 
the  mountains,  or  the  interior. 

These  Steamers  leave  their  piers,  on  North  or  Hudson  Riv- 
er, at  5  o^clock,  P.  M.,  and  make  passage  through  East  River 
in  the  waning  day,  giving  an  agreeable  change  from  the 
crowded  streets  and  heated  pavements  of  the  great  City,  to 
the  coolness  of  an  open  harbor  and  the  breath  of  sea-breezes. 

The  observing  stranger  will  find  this  trip  one  of  rarest  in- 
terest from  the  start.  The  rounding  of  the  southern  point  of 
the  city,  the  glance  down  the  magnificent  bay,  the  circular  and 
frowning  walls  of  the  Battery,  Castle  Garden,  Govern- 
or's Island,  with  the  batteries  of  Castle  William,  and  the 
many  points  of  interest,  which  were  the  centres  of  life  and 
business  in  the  New  York  of  foraaer  years,  are  here  observed. 

Through  East  River  the  magnificent  Steamer  ploughs  its 
way,  crcdsing  the  line  of  numerous  ferries  which  connect  the 
first  city  in  the  United  States  with  Brooklyn— the  third  in 
population — soon  to  be  joined  to  the  metropolis  by  an  im- 
mense Bridge  already  in  process  of  building. 


h'ri 


i^ 


iiali 


18 


THE   START   FROM   NEW   YORK. 


The  River,  alive  with  a  moving  fleet  of  shipping,  has,  lying 
along  its  miles  of  water-front,  ships  and  steamers  from  every 
quarter  of  the  world,  laden  with  the  riches  of  every  land,  and 
the  products  of  every  industry. 

The  bold  Heights  of  Brooklyn,  to  the  right,  are  crowned 
with  elegant  residences,  while  the  Docks  and  Navy  Yard — 
one  of  the  great  Naval  Stations  of  the  country — the  islands, 
with  the  public  institutions  thereon,  all  form  a  scene  which 
can  but  interest  those  to  whom  the  sight  is  not  made  familiar  < 
by  daily  observance. 

The  stranger,  who  tarries  in  the  city,  will  get  his  best  view 
of  the  metropolis  and  surroundings  from  Trinity  steeple,  or 
a  more  distinct  one  from  Brooklyn  Heights.  If  he  is  interest- 
ed in  art  and  modern  improvement,  he  will  tind  in  the  Parks, 
Museums,  Public  Institutions  and  pleasure  vf^sorts  of  this  na- 
tional centre  of  business  life,  attractions  lequalled  else- 
where in  the  country.  If,  on  the  other  hand,  he  is  attracted 
by  points  of  historic  interest  and  old  associations,  he  may 
visit  the  sites  where  Washington,  John  Adams,  Alexander 
Hamilton  and  Aaron  Burr  lived  in  the  early  days  of  the  Me- 
tropolis; where  the  Father  of  his  country  held  his  court,  was 
elected  President,  and  bade  farewell  to  his  officers.  The 
graves  of  Alexander  Hamilton,  Commodore  Lawrence,  and 
many  others  of  wide  fame,  are  in  Trinity  Churchyard. 

He  may,  also,  in  summer,  take  pleasure  trips  up  the  wond- 
erful Hudson  River  on  which  its  discoverer  sailed  of  old,  in 
the  staunch  *'  Half  Moon,"  under  the  firm  belief  that  he  had 
found  the  long  sought  passage  to  China.  The  grandeur  of 
the  Highlands  along  the  banks  of  the  Hudson  is  unsur- 
passed, and  each  headland  and  crag  has  its  historic  associa- 
tions or  pleasing  legends;  for  here  the  fine  fancy  of  Irving 
wove  his  dreamy  yet  delightful  tales. 

He  may  also  take  a  sail  down  the  grand  harbor  to  Long 
Branch,  or  to  the  many  suburban  points  of  interest  whicii 
cjinnot  be  here  mentioned,  even  by  name. 

But,  returning  to  the  boat  on  which  we  have  taken  passage;, 
and  steaming  on  in  stately  strength  through  East  River,  past 
the   extensive   corrective   and  reformatory    institutions   on 


THE  START  FROM  NEW   YORK. 


19 


Blackwell's  and  Randall's  Islands,  the  once  perilous  passage 
at  "Hell  Gate"  is  reached — six  miles  from  New  York, 
famous  for  the  perils  here  encountered  by  the  early  Dutch 
navigators:  this  tortuous  passage,  which  has  since  been  a 
bar  to  commerce,  will  soon  become  a  thing  of  the  past,  and 
yield  to  the  force  of  genius  and  nitro-glycerine. 

At  Throgg's  Neck,  thirteen  miles  from  New  York,  com- 
manded by  the  guns  of  Fort  Schuyler,  you  enter  the  waters  of 


LONG  ISLAND  SOUND. 

This  important  inland  highway  for  navigation  between  the 
national  centre  of  commerce  and  trade  anJ  New  England,  is 
somewhat  over  one  hundred  miles  in  length,  and,  at  its 
broadest,  from  twenty  to  thirty  miles  in  width,  and  is  navi- 
gable for  the  largest  craft.  The  superior  harbors  are  within 
the  irregular  outline  of  the  northern  coast,  which  is  studded 
with  important  towns  and  cities  and  popular  resorts. 

The  pulses  of  the  iron  monster  beat  on  through  the  night ; 
the  prow  steadily  cleaves  the  waves,  and  the  glimmering 
wake  follows  in  dying  perspective,  whether  you  sleep  or 
wake.  There  is  rest  for  those  who  prefer  it,  and  grandeur 
and  beauty  for  those  who  appreciate  the  somber  glory  of  the 
moonlit  sea. 

Your  choice  of  rail  routes  having  been  made,  you  will  find 
your  further  progress  fully  described  under  the  head  of 
"  Routes,"  laid  out  in  the  following  pages. 


V  f  ill 


:l;;;i 


ii 


EOTJTE. 

From  New  York  to  Concord^  N.  H. 

By  Boat  and  Rail  fkom  New  York  by  the  Norwich 
Line  of  Steamers,  via  Worcester  and  Nashua. 

These  fine  boats,  "  City  of  New  York"  and  •*  City  of  Bos- 


li;i 


A 


VIA  NORWICH. 


21 


ton,"  leave  Pier  No.  40.  North  River,  at  5  o'clock,  p.  M., 
They  have  all  the  appointments  and  conveniences  to  be  found 
upon  the  boats  of  any  inland  waters,  passing  in  full  view  of 
the  gi'eat  city,  the  surrounding  objects  of  interest  and  the 
suburban  towns  along  the  Long  Island  shore,  more  fully 
described  in  the  opening  pages.  Passengers  by  this  route  in- 
cur little  risk  from  storms  or  inconvenience^  from  rough 
weather ;  aiTiving  at  Allyn's  Point  at  4  o'clock,  A.  M. ;  White 
Mountain  Express  train  leaving  at  6  o'clock,  A.  M. ;  thence 
by  the  Norwich  and  Worcester  Railway,  with  elegant  parlor 
cars,  which  are  not  excelled,  if  eqalled,  by  those  of  any  i*ail- 
way  line,  to  Worcester — the  heart  of  the  Commonwealth, 
(receiving  at  this  point  the  travel  centreing  here  from  con- 
verging roads,)  and,  after  taking  time  for  breakfast  at  the 
BAY  STATE  House,  proceed  by  Worcester  and  Nashua  rail- 
road, to  Ayer's  Junction,  (connecting  there  with  train  from 
Fitchburg,)  to  Nashua;  (connecting  with  through  White 
Mountain  Express  trains  from  Boston,)  and  Manchester, 
along  the  valley  of  the  Merrimack  River,  (receiving  at  Man- 
chester passengers  from  Portsmouth  and  the  East,  and  from 
Boston  via.  Lawrence,)  proceed,  stopping  only  at  important 
points,  to  Concord,  Lake  Winnipesaukee,  Plymouth,  (dining 
station)  Littleton,  (from  here  to  Profile  House  by  stage)  Beth- 
lehem, Fabyan  House  station,  (nearest  to  Mount  Washington, 
and  Crawford  House  at  the  Notch,  Crawford  House  and 
Mount  Washington  House  on  summit  of  Mount  Washington, 
or  to  Lancaster  (stage  from  here  to  Jefferson  Hill)  and 
Northumberland — (junction  with  Grand  Trunk  Railway  for 
Montreal  or  Quebec.) 

Note.— An  Exprera  train,  connocting  with  this  line  of  boats,  ieaTea  Allyn's  Pt 
at  5  o'clock,  A.  M.,  giving  a  full  night's  rest  on  the  boat,  and  proceeds,  by  continu- 
ous express  trains,  (piTlor  cars  run  through)  without  delay  to  the  Mountains. 

Norwich  i:i  at  the  head  of  navigation  on  the  Thames  River,  thirteen  miles  from 
New  London.  The  location  is  commanding,  built  upon  the  steep  hillside,  lying 
between  the  rivers  which  unite  to  form  the  Thames.  The  manufacturing  portion 
of  the  town  is  in  a  valley  enclosed  by  hills.  Cottons,  woolens,  paper  and  ma- 
cliinery  are  the  chief  products.  The  territory  comprised  in  the  town  was  pur- 
chased  of  Uncas  and  his  sons  for  the  sum  of  seventy  pounds.  A  large  banking 
and  insurance  business  is  carried  on  at  this  place.  The  "  Falls  of  the  Yantic  " 
are  about  a  mile  from  its  outlet,  and  should  be  visited  by  those  who  tarry  here. 


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EOUTE. 

i'Vom  New  York  to  Concord,  N.  H. 

Bx^  Boat  and  Rail  from  New  York  via  Fall  River 

Line  of  Steamers. 

Starting  at  5  o'clock,  p.  M.,  from  New  York,  Piers  No.  28 
and  30,  North  River,  these  palatial  boats,  the  finest  that  float 
upon  inland  waters — the  " Bristol"  and  "Providence," 
each  fiirnislied  with  an  excellent  band  of  music  during  the 
season  of  summer  travel,  and  with  large  state  rooms  lighted 
by  gas,  will  proceed  though  the  whole  length  of  the  Sound 
and  Nai'ragansett  Bay,  affording  fine  views  of  the  Metrop- 
olis and  surroundings  described  in  the  preceding  pages,  giv- 
ing a  longer  sail,  and  less  distance  by  rail,  with  same  time 
and  fare  as  other  routes,  and  arrive  at  Fall  River — the  cham- 
pion manuf\icturing  city  of  New  England — on  Mount  Hope 
Bay,  an  arm  of  Narraganset  Bay,  at  the  confluence  of  Taun- 
ton and  Fall  Rivers,  at  about  4  o'clock,  A.  M. 

Passengers  are  called  for  breakfast  at  5i  o'clock;  after 
breakfasting,  take  the  fine  parlor  car 

*'  PLYMOUTH"  OR  "  NEWPORT," 

or  the  elegant  monitor  top  cars  of  this  line,  and  proceed  by 
express  train,  stopping  only  at  important  points,  to  Concord, 
Lake  Winnipesaukee,  Plymouth,  Littleton,  (from  here  to 
Profile  House  by  stage,)  Bethlehem,  Twin  Mountain  station, 
Fahyan  house  Station,  (present  terminus  of  the  Mountain 
branch,  and  nearest  to  Mt.  Washington  and  the  Crawford 
House  at  White  Mt.  Notch.)  Mount  Washington  Railway 
Station  at  Marshfield,  up  Mt.  Wash'n  R,  R.  to  summit,  or  to 
tile  Crawford  House  at  the  Notch ;  or,  to  Lancaster  (stage 
from  here  to  Jefferson  Hill,  and  Northumberland,  (junction 
with  Grand  Trunk  Railway  for  Montreal  or  Quebec. 


j;     i: 


i"' 


r     i 
i  ■  i 


24   ROUTE  FROM  NEW  YORK  TO  CONCORD,  N.  H. 

NoTi.— This  train  receivM  at  TAUifTOif  paasengers  from  New  Bedford  and  Cape 
Cod  Bailroads;  at  MANsriiLD  connects  with  train  from  Providence  and  Shore 
Line  from  New  York ;  at  FBAinNOHAX  with  train  f^ora  New  Yorii,  via  Hartford 
and  Springfield;  thence  over  the  Framingbam  and  Lowell  Railroad  to  Acton, 
and  from  thence  to  Nashua  by  the  new  Nashua  and  Acton  railway,  connecting 
there  with  the  through  express  trains  for  the  north,  (no  change  of  cars),  proceed- 
ing through  Manchester  (receiving  at  Manchester  passengers  from  Portsmouth 
and  the  east),  and  continuing  through  the  valley  of  the  Merrimack  to  Concord, 
N.H. 


;  I 


!|i 


EOTJTE. 

From  New  York  to  Concord,  N.  H. 

X  Rail  day  route  from  New  York  to  the  Mountain?. 

Leave  Ne\T  York  by  express  train  vi.a  Springfield,  Worces- 
ancl  Nashua,  from  the  Grand  Central  Depot,  Forty-seQpnd 
feet,  at  10  o'clock,  a.  m.,  (fast  express,)  by  New  York  and 
3W  Haven  Railroad  via  New  Haven  and  Hartford,  and  ar- 
ring  at  Springfield  at  1  o'clock,  in  time  for  dinner  at  that 
Icellent  hotel,  the  Massasoit  House ;  thence  proceeding  via 


""*'<.; 


MASSASOIT  HOUSE. 

)rcester,  (receiving  travel  from  connecting  roads,)  Nashua, 

Worcester  and  Nashua  R.  R.,  joining  at  Nashua  the  ex- 

?ss  from  Boston,  Manchester,  and  along  the  Merrimack 

lley  to  Concord ;  and  from  that  point  continue  by  the  Bos- 

i,  Concord  &  Montreal  Railroad,  reaching  Plymouth,  N. 

[,  the  same  evening;  stopping  at  the  famous  Pemigewasset 

)use  for  the  night,  and  continuing  the  journey  to  the  Moun- 

in  the  morning.    There  is  also  an  evening  train,  leav- 

New  York  at  8,  p.  M.    This  is  the  only  rail  route  by  which 

Bsengers  can  travel  the  entire  distance  by  express  trains 

parlor  cars. 


II 


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fill'    .! 


26   ROUTE  FROM  NEW  YORK  TO  CONCORD,  N.  H. 

Note. — ^Thfs  rowto,  taking  the  morninp;  tmln,  conveys  th«  panseng'tr  thrrMil 
tlie  interoHtiiig  portion  of  Ci)nnocticiit  itiid  M  liAacliiHiUts.  tho  fair  capital  cit);| 
New  IIavkn,  appropriately  called  tiio  "Elm  City,"  lielti  in  memory  by  the 
grailnnteM  of  the  famed  and  ancient  Yale  College,  founded  in  1700.    From  New 
von  to  the  twin  capital  city  of  IlARTPoai),  calling  tip  romHrnbrancea  of  the  "( 
vention  "  and  Charter  Oak,  and  noted  for  the  elaborate  architecture  of  its  ele^tj 
and  permanent  buildings,  the  wealth  of  its  pt3op1e  and  the  collossal  and  buIhIj 
tial  growth  of  its  Life  and  Fire  Insurance  Companies.     The  m mufactures  aretj 
tensive,  including  Colt's  immense  pistol  works,  covering  125  acres,  S'larpe's  rij 
factory  and  a  wide  variety  of  other  intorosts.    Central  P.irk  contains  40  iicrj 
and  is  an  attractive  spot.    Tlie  splenlid  railroad  station  will  attract  your  HttI 
tlon  and  you  pass  on  to  Springfield  through  tho  finest  p  irtion  of  the  Connocticj 
Valley.     Henceforth  Hartford  is  to  be  the  S')le  capital  of  the  State. 

Spkinqfield,  located  on  tho  oast  b.iiik  of  thfj  Connecticut,  is  an  important  i 
road  centre,  noted  for  the  beauty  of  its  locatinu,  and  cliiefly  for  the  United  Slal 
Armory,  the  only  considerable  government  minufaotory  of  small  anus  in  tl 
country,  thuro  located.     Tlie  buililiiigs  of  the  arinnry  ii.ive  an  elevated  loc8':J| 
in  tho  easterly  portion  of  tho  city,  and  are  whII  worth  a  visit;  here  also  iiro' 
extensive  car  works  of  the  Wa-ion  Munufacturiiig  Co.,  and  Smith  and  V- Mm 
pistol  works,  both  noted  manufactorioa. 

WoacESTEU,  the  heart  of  the  Coinmonwoilth,  is  an  important  railroad  andtn 
centre,  as  a  glance  at  the  map  will  show  you,  and  one  of  the  most  imporli 
inland  cities  in  New  England,  manufacturing  iron  goods,  tools  and  niachincrTl 
wide  variety.  The  people  have  a  largo  avora.^^oof  Wtvalth  and  are  an  cntorprisiJ 
live  and  liberal  community.  The  manufacture  oF  wire  of  all  kinds  is  extensiivl 
carried  on  here. 


EOUTE. 

From  New  York  to  Concord,  N.  H.,  Shore  Line. 
[ll  Rail  Route  prom  New  York  to  the  Mountains  . 

jeave  New  York,  via  Shore  Lino,  from  the  Grand  Central 

ition,  Forty-second  street,  at  8  o'clock,  p.  M.,  via  New  York 
1(1  New  Haven  Railroad,  proceeding  by  express  train  in 
fagner's  Sleeping  cars,  via  Bridgeport,  New  Haven,  New 
)ndon,  Stonington  and  Providence,  along  the  shore  of  Long 
land  Sound  and  Narraganset  Bay,  an  exceedingly  pleasant 
kite,  with  no  vexatious  delays,  and  superior  accommoda- 
ms  for  comfort,  through  a  network  of  thriving  towns  and 
ties  (of  which  the  space  of  our  hand-book  does  not  permit 
iscription.)  The  route  is  noticeable  for  its  coolness  and  free- 
\m.  from  dust. 

?aking  ample  time  for  rest  in  the  fine  reception  rooms,  and 
breakfast  in  the  depot  dining-rooms  at  Providence,  leave 

it  point  by  the  express  train  at  6.  20,  A.  M.,  via  Mansfield, 
famingham,  (connecting  with  train  from  New  York,  via 
iringfield,)  Lowell,  (uniting  here  with  train  from  Boston 

d  Salem,  no  change  of  cars,)  or  6.25,  A.  M.,  via  Providence 
Id  Worcester  Railroad,  via  Worcester  and  Clinton ; 
(ence  to  Nashua,  Manchester,  and  along  the  Merrimack  val- 
to  Concord,  N.  H.,  from  which  point  the  route  to  the 

ike  and  mountains  is  described  in  the  succeeding  pages. 


EOUTE. 

From  Providence^  H.  I.  to  the  Mountains^  Montreal  or  Qua 

VIA  Lowell. 


ii! 


( ! 
Hi 


Leave  Providence  in  the  morning  (see  Time  Tables), 
Providence  and  Worcester  Railway,  connecting  at  Worce8t( 
with  through  White  Mountain  Express,  with  parlor  caij 
previously  described  in  routes  given  from  New  York.  Leai 
Worcester  at  8  o'clock,  A.  M.,  and,  passing  directly  on 
Worcester  and  Nashua  R.  R.,  to  Nashua,  Manchester,  ad 
Concord — thence  northward  to  Lake  Winnipesaukee,  Pl| 
mouth,  Littleton,  Franconia  Notch,  the  White  Mountain 
Lancaster,  Northumberland ;  (uniting  at  thie  junction  m\ 
the  Grand  Trunk  Railway  for  the  Canadian  cities. 

Note. — PRoyiDZNO&  is  the  principal  port  of  entry  nnd  one  of  the  capital  citJJ 
of  Rhode  Island,  and  Is  the  second  city  in  population  and  wealth  in  New 
land.    The  location  is  upon  both  sides  of  Providence  river,  which  is  crossed! 
wide  and  commodious  bridges.    Its  ilrst  settlement  in  1636,  by  Roger  WilIiaDM| 
exiled  from  Mass.  for  religious  heresies — is  too  familiar  to  need  repetition, 
rock  on  which  be  landed  on  the  bank  of  Seconk  river  is  still  pointed  out. 
City  Uoi'l  is  a  first  clues  house  where  every  comfort  is  provided,  L.  II.  Hudi|| 
reys,  yrojijr  dtor. 

Brown  University  is  one  of  the  noted  Colleges  of  the  country,  and  the  Edn 
tioi!(;<.i  u  jd  Charitable  Institutions  of  the  city  are  numerous,  and  liberally  endi 
ed.    An  extensive  network  of  railroads  terminate  here,  having  a  central  stfltij 
in  the  hoart  of  the  city,  and  steamers  run  to  Bristol,  Newport,  Fall  River,  Wi| 
w!ck,  Rocky  Point  and  various  places  on  Narragansett  Bay.    A  sail  down  th 
should,  by  all  means,  be  taken. 


ROUTE. 

^om  Providence^  R.  I.  to  the  Mountains,  Montreal  &  Quebec^ 

* 

AiA  Mansfield,   Fkamingiiam  and  Nashua. 

^eave  Providence  (see  Time  Tables),  via  Mansfield  and 

imingham,  Nashua  and  Acton  R.  Roads  condectingat  Mans- 

(Idwith  through  White  Mountain  Express,  with  parlor  cars; 
1,  passing  directly  on  to  Nashua,  Manchester  and  Concord 
thence  northward  to  Lake  Winnipesaukee,  Plymouth,  Lit- 
fton,  Franconia  Notch,  the  White  Mountains,  Lancaster, 
)rthumberland  Junction,  (uniting  here  with  Grand  Trunk 
til  way  for  the  Canadas.) 


J,  and  the  Edn 


toTE.— Few  strangers  will  wish  to  leave  Providence  without  visiting  Newport, 
elegant  and  fashionable  New  England  watering  place.    A  century  n,\io  it  was 
ivgl  of  Now  York  in  its  foreign  commerce.    The  town  was  virtually  destroyed 
[the  British  in  1779  and  two-tliirds  of  the  population  deserted  the  place.    Of 
many  elegant  residences  have  been  erected  upon  the  elevations  overloolting 
sea.    The  town  is  rich  in  historical  associations  and  localities  and  objects  of 
interest.    There  is  an  inner  and  outer  haHior,  forming  one  of  the  finest  in 
I  country,  each  surrounding  point  and  headland  fraught  with  historic  interest, 
older  portion  of  the  city  is  crowded  and  ancient  in  appearance ;  the  new 
rn  is  built  with  liberal  breadth  of  streets  and  display  of  architectural  taste 
elegance.    The  fleets  of  the  world  could  ride  at  anchor  in  the  deep  and  spa- 
is  harbor;  the  Forts,  ancient  and  modern,  the  mysterious  "Old  Stone  Mill," 
)  carefully  preserved  printing  press  on  which  Ben.  Franklin  worked  in  1772  are 
|l)ortant  among  the  many  sights  not  to  be  overlooked  during  your  stay. 
iARRAOANSBTT  PiBR  is  another  popular  resort  at  the  southwestern  shore  of  the 
)r,  celebrated  for  the  extensive  ocean  and  inland  views  from  Tower  Hill  and  the 
0(1  hotel  accommodations  and  facilities  for  fishing,  rowing  or  sailing,  afforded 
I  the  Tower  Hill  House. 


I 


f^ 


1 


ROUTE. 

From  Boston  to  the  Mountains,  Montreal  and  Quebec,     \ 

VIA  Lowell. 

Leave  Boston  by  the  Boston  and  Lowell  Railroad,  froij 
the  magnificent  new  passenger  station,  Causeway  Street,  a| 
8  o'clock  A.  M. 


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32 


m 

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mi 


ROUTE  FROM  BOSTON  TO  THE  MOUNTAINS, 


Leave  Boston  by  the  Boston  and  Lowell  Railroad,  from  ta 
magnificent  new  passenger  st-cition.  Causeway  street,  at  I 
o'clock  A,M.  This  new  Passenger  Station  is  the  finest  In  NeJ 
England,  and,  perhaps,  in  the  U.  S. ;  is  complete  in  all  its 
rangements  for  the  comfort  and  convenience  of  patrons  of  tli 
line ;  has  fine  reception  rooms  and  restaurants ;  is  beautifJ 
and  unique  in  the  style  of  architecture,  and  rich  and  ornamea 
tal  in  material  of  construction.  The  roof  being  of  glass,  giva 
a  pleasing  and  cljeerful  light  not  often  seen  in  buildings  of  tlij 
class,  and  dispels  that  depressing  gloom  which  often  shadov 
the  waiting  traveller. 

Leaving  this  station  the  stranger  looks  with  interest  to  tli 
right  upon  historic  ground  in  Charlestown,  with  the  plaij 
shaft  on  Bunker  Hill  rising  now  and  then  into  view;  th 
McLean  Asylum  for  the  Insane  at  Somerville  will  also  be  nd 
ticed,  and  you  pass  on  to  Lowell  over  one  of  the  oldest  linej 
of  railway  in  the  country,  and,  in  the  new  improved  parlo 
and  fine  monitor  top  cars  of  the  line,  with  no  delays,  excepij 
ing  the  necessary  stoppages  and  for  dinner,  you  take  you 
journey  to  the  mountains,  by  the  express  train,  and  are  mad 
as  comfortable  as  modern  enterprise  can  make  you,  with  thi 
added  charm  of  a  pleasant  country  on  either  hand  as  yoj 
thread  the  valley  of  the  Merrimack. 

At  Lowell  the  Concord  river  unites  with  the  Merrimaclj 
furnishing  the  extensive  water-power  of  this  great  manufactj 
uring  site.  Fifteen  millions  of  capital  are  invested  and  fifteeif 
thousand  people  are  here  employed  in  the  extensive  mills. 

From  Lowell,  after  receiving  travel  from  Salem  over  thj 
Salem  and  Lowell  railroad,  and  other  lines  (uniting  here  wita 
New  York  Express)  via.  Norwich  or  Fall  River,  you  journey 
along  the  Merrimack  to  Nashua,  another  of  the  thriving  citiei 
developed  on  the  water-powers  of  the  Merrimack,  where  m 
find  the  productions  of  the  mills  and  shops  not  confined  to  tha 
specialty  of  cotton  fabrics,  but  ranging  over  a  wide  list  of  the] 
useful  and  ornamental,  the  massive  and  the  diminutive. 


, ..  ^i^iw.^^. 


MONTREAL  AND  QUEBEC,  VIA  LOWELL. 


33 


m  over  thJ 


The  Merrimao  House,  Lowell. 

Emery  &  Nute,  Proprietors,  is  a  new  and  first  class  Hotel. 

From  Nashua  there  is  little  of  special  interest  nntil  Man- 
[iliestor  is  reached — the  largest  city  of  the  old  Granite  State. 
?lioiigh  cotton  manufacture  may  be  considered  the  special 
teaturo  of  the  products  of  Mancliester,  yet  the  locomotive 
kvorks  are  of  great  importance.  The  Amoskeag  Manufactur- 
ing Company  have  three  millions  of  dollars  in  their  business 
)f  manufacturing  steam  fire  engines,  machinery,  and  a  wide 
liversity  of  prothicts.  Some  ten  miles  west  of  Manchester 
iro  the  two  considerable  peaks  known  as  tlie  "  Twin  Unca- 
loonucks,"  said  to  be  tlie  first  elevations  seen  by  mariners 
ipproaching  tlie  coast, 

At  the  National  House,  opposite  the  Depot,  those  who  tar- 
by  in  Manchester  will  find  comfort  and  good  cheer. 

The  substantial  stone  dam  at  Amoskeag  Falls,  built  in  the 
Form  of  a  half  circle,  will  be  observed  upon  the  left  as  the 
train  passes  out  of  the  City  over  tlie  smooth  and  substantial 
roadbed  of  the  Concord  Railroad— one  of  the  most  impor- 
puit  short  trunk  lines  in  the  country — and  with  management 
l^vorthy  of  its  importance.  W.  A.  Tower  is  the  President, 
md  H.  E.  Chamberlain,  Superintendent. 


34 


ROUTE  FROM  BOSTON  TO  THE  MOUNTAINS. 


liPl! 


The  short  ride  to  Concord  is  through  the  pleasant  valley  off 
the  Merrimack,  and  past  the  improved  water  powers  at  Hookj 
sett  (observe  the  sharp  rocky  "  Pinnacle"  to  the  left,)  am 
Suncook;  and  from  Concord  northward,  giving  connection! 
at  Weirs  with  Steamboat  on  Lake  Winnipesaukee  for  CenI 
TRE  Harbor  (Stage  and  rail  route  from  Centre  Harbor  tol 
North  Conway.)  Also  from  Weirs  passengers  go  by  boat  tol 
Wolfeborough  (rail  route  from  Wolfeborough  to  North  Cou| 
way). 

From  Plymouth  the Pemigewasset  Valley  Stage  Route  di| 
verges  through  Campton,  Woodstock* and  Lincoln  to  Franco- 
nia  Notch  and  the  Profile  House. 

The  train  leaving  Boston  at  IS  o'clock  noon,  by  this  route) 
connects  with  the  boat  on  Lake  Winnipesaukee,  at  Weirs  for] 
Centre  Harbor  and  Wolfeborough,  and  continues  to  Plymoutli; 
also,  (excepting  in  mid-winter,)  night  accommodation  trulnl 
over  the  Boston,  Concord  and  Montreal  connects  at  Concord 
with  the  6  o'clock  trains  from  Boston,  from  Lowell  Depoi 
running  through  to  Plymouth,  N.  H.,  the  same  night,  aii(l| 
continuing  to  the  mountains  next  morning. 


:!iltl 


J^*... 


H 


KOUTE. 

From  Boston  to  the  Moimtains,  Mo7itreal  cmd  QuebeCy 

VIA  Lawkence. 

Leave  the  station  of  the  Boston  and  Maine  Raih'oad,  in  Hay- 
market  square,  at  7.30  A.  M.  As  on  the  Lowell  route,  the  view 
from  the  car  windows,  to  the  right  as  you  leave  the  city,  looks 
upon  the  Heights  in  Charlestown,  and  the  shaft  of  Bunker  Hill 
Monument — always  an  object  of  interest. 

This  route  for  the  first  twelve  miles  passes  through  the  net 
work  of  fine  suburban  towns  and  villages  that  have  sprung 
up  along  the  line  of  all  important  railways  centering  in  the 
New  England  metropolis,  and  extending  Avidor  and  in  new 
localities  as  the  years  roll  on.  Somerville,  Maiden,  Melrose, 
AVakefield  and  Reading  are  fine  towns.  The  union  of  this 
road  with  the  Salem  and  Lowell  is  at  Wilmington  Junction. 
Twenty-three  miles  from  Boston  the  fine  old  town  of  Andover 
is  reached.  Here  is  the  Tiicological  Seminary  founded  in 
1807,  for  the  purpose  of  providing  a  "learned,  orthodox,  and 
pious  ministry."  It  is  under  Congregational  auspices  but  not 
closed  to  others.  The  Abbott  Female  Seminary,  Phillips' 
Acadamy  (founded  nearly  a  century  ago),  and  the  new  Me- 
morial Hall,  which  will  accommodate  a  free  library,  are  of  no- 
ticeable importance.  The  Mansion  House  is  a  good  Hotel, 
C.  L.  Carter,  Proprietor. 

Reaching  the  Merrimack,  twenty-six  miles  from  Boston,  the 
fine  buildings  of  the  great  cotton  and  woolen  mills  of  Law- 
rence attract  attention.  Younger  in  years  than  most  of  the 
cities  of  New  England,  Lawrence  holds  an  important  place  in 
I  the  production  of  cotton,  woolen,  and  worsted  fabrics,  and  the 
manufacture  of  paper. 

Nearly  thirteen  thousand  operatives  are  employed,  and 
twelve  million  dollars  of  capital  are  invested.  The  Boston 
and  Maine  Railroad  here  diverges  to  the  eastward,  on  its  way 
to  Portland,  and  we  continue  by  way  of  the  Manchester  and 


V  fm\^" 


36 


ROUTE  FROM  BOSTON  TO  THE  MOUNTAINS, 


!Hi 


§ 


Lawrence  Railroad,  to  Manchester,  and  from  thence  to  Con- 
cord, as  described  in  the  route  via  Lowell,  and  on  to  the  Mount- 
ains. 


aiMO-M'HAi.ir-t% 


FuANKLiN  House,  T.  W.  Huse,  Proprietor. 

Windham,  on  the  Manchester  and  Lawrence  R.  R.  is  tlie 
point  of  intersection  with  the  Rochester  and  Nashua  Railroad, 
soon  to  be  opened,  and  completing  a  new  through  line,  from 
Portland  to  New  York,  directly  across  the  country,  without 
making  the  circuit  of  the  Coast.  This  line  is  being  hurried 
to  completion. 

There  is  also,  over  this  route,  the  12  o'clock  noon  train  from 
Boston  for  Plymouth  N.  H.,  connecting  at  Weirs,  on  Lake  Win- 
nipesaukee,  with  boat  for  Centre  Harbor  and  Wolfeborough ; 
and  5  o'clock  night  train  from  Boston  running  through  to 
Plymouth  (excepting  in  mid-winter),  same  as  by  the  Lowell 
route,  and  continuing  from  Plymouth  to  the  mountains  the 
following  morning. 


MONTREAL  AND  QUEBEC,  VIA  LAWRENCE. 


37 


BoRTOW . — Either  going  or  retnrning  from  the  Iftkes  nnd  monntainn,  the  stranger 
will  wish  to  tarry  for  a  short  time  in  this  good  old  city — the  metropolis  of  New 
England.  Philadelphia  was  a  forost  and  New  York  an  insignificant  village  long 
after  Boston  Iiad  hecome  an  important  commercial  town.  This  ancient  and  hon- 
orable city  lias,  by  natural  growth,  and  by  absorbing  surrounding  towns,  become 
the  fourth  city  in  population  in  the  Union,  and  is  one  of  the  first  in  point  of 
avorage  wealth  and  the  culture  and  enterprise  of  its  citizens. 

The  old,  revolutionary  associations,  the  hallowed  sites  and  many  objects  of  in- 
terest in,  and  in  the  near  vicinity  of  the  city,  attract  the  intelligent  stranger. 
It  is  tiie  second  city  in  commercial  importance  in  the  U.  8.,  and,  in  the  culture  of 
its  people,  the  extent  and  grandeur  of  its  charities  and  institutions,  and  the 
solidity  of  its  finances  it  has  no  rival. 

Among  the  many  places  and  points  of  interest,  which  strangers  will  visit,  are 
Fanouil  Hall— the  old  cradle  of  liberty— the  Old  South  Gharch.  now  use  1  as  the 
Post  OfHce,  and  under  the  shadow  of  which  Franklin  was  born;  the  City  Hail, 
witli  the  Franklin  Statue,  on  School  Street,  the  new  Post  Ofii  e  Building  on  Dev- 
onsiiire  Street;  Music  Hall,  with  the  Great  Organ,  off  Winter  Street,  the  Athe- 
iinnim,  on  Tremont  Street;  the  Public  Library  ou  Boylston  Street,  and  the  In- 
stitute of  Technology  on  Commonwealth  Avenue.  The  outlook  from  the  cupola 
uf  tiie  State  House  is  one  of  rare  interest. 

The  world  renowned  Boston  Common  with  the  "Old  Elm"  where  witches 
wore  hung,  and  beneath  which  Whitfield  preached,  an  enclosure  of  48  acres,  is  a 
spot  more  universally  loved  and  resorted  to  by  Bo:4tonians  and  New  Englanders 
than  any  other,  being  easily  reached  from  any  quarter  of  the  city.  The  modern 
Public  Garden,  an  enclosure  of  22  acres,  adjoining  the  Common,  with  the  artistic 
arrangements  of  its  walks  and  pouds  and  fine  statuary  is  worth  a  visit. 

In  the  Old  Cemetery,  on  Copp's  Hill,  are  the  graves  of  Cotton  and  Increase 
Matlicr  and  others  known  to  fame.  In  the  "  Granary  Burying  Grotind,"  on  Tre- 
mont Street,  arc  the  graves  of  a  long  lino  of  old  colonial  Governors,  of  the  pat- 
riot Paul  Revere;  The  famous  patriot  Statesmen  John  Hancock  and  Samuel 
Adams,  and  the  parents  of  Benjamin  Franklin. 

Bnnker  Hill,  in  tlie  Charlostown  District,  will  be  visited  by  all  lovers  of  coun- 
try; the  outlook  gained  by  ascending  the  monument  is  one  of  the  finest  to  bo 
found.  While  here,  visit  also  the  Navy  Yard  and  Dock,  important  among  tho 
naval  .stations  of  the  country. 

A  trip  to  Cambridge,  the  site  of  Harvard  College,  where  also  may  be  seen  the 
.olil  "Washington  liead-quarters,  the  noted  Elm   under  which   Wasliington   as- 
sumed chief  command,  and  Mount  Auburn  Cemetery,  the  resting  place  for  the 
dead  made  attractive  and  beautiful  by  lavish  expenditure  and  cultured  taste. 

To  the  nnin  of  wealth,  leisure  and  culture,  perhaps  no  city  in  America  has  so 
many  advantages  as  a  place  of  residence  as  Boston,  and  no  city  in  tlie  country 
has.  in  its  immediate  vicinity,  or,  within  a  circuit  of  twenty  miles,  so  complete  a 
network  of  cities  and  towns  of  importance,  desirable  as  places  of  residence,  beau- 
tifi-.l  a!id  attractive  in  location  and  convenience  of  access. 

Summer  excursions  by  steamboat  to  Hull,  Hingham  and  Nahant,  and  trips 
among  the  islands  and  return,  are  made  daily,  from  different  points,  and  are 
patronized  by  the  best  of  people. 


;  5: 


ll 


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i 

J 

i 


i 


TW: 


38 


ROUTE  FROM  BOSTON  TO  THE  MOUNTAINS. 


In  tho  matter  of  IIotrls,  Uoston  hns  mftny  worthy  of  its  fame. 


liii 


'i .    .i!i 


O 

w 

1-4 


The  Amkuican  House,  Lewis  Rice  &  Son,  Proprietors,  on  Hanover  Street  is 
first  ciasH  in  its  tippointnients,  central  in  location  and  managed  by  popuar  and 
w«'ll  known  gcutlcinen. 

The  IIevrkk  House,  Parker  Housf,  United  States  Hotel,  (opposite  Boston 
A  Albtiiiy  H.  W.  Station),  tlte  Commoxwealtif,  St.  James  and  Ci.arend  i\  Hotels 
»iv  Dinoiip,  till'  most  central  ami  licHt  niana^ed  uf  llie  popular  Hotels,  witli  others 
of,  porhapf,  equal  merit,  wliicli  want  of  space  forbids  mentioning. 


O 

W 


» 


III 

hi 


M 


-^^ 


marton  liunding 

Pafton  ^} 
IVeat  Burke  ®^ 

Xj/ndonvilleo\ 

St.Johnabury  Centre o^ 
St.John8bury  o 

Fasswnpaie  ® 


lOroveton  J'une, 


W 


llpv  .Vlelcher  House 


Gnildhalli 


J^uneiiburgh   <> 


Sumner  11^^'  §'=^1 


'  o£ LANCASTER 

Jiftncaster  House 

^i^ViQeri(ifm  House 
H(;agter 


rse 


Uou 


WJiitefieldf  ^ 


. ,  Dodges 
bbotts 


TIaisteds 
f,  Jefferson 

^Wiimbek  House 


>59^ 


AJJ' 


.& 


.Vv6* 


Bariiet 


Mclndoes^^ 


Oak  Hill  House, 
Thayers  Hotel, 

LITTLETON 

uniun  House 


WingJRoad^m         „    .    _,  ^^ 

■^q\.        TwinlHtJIouse 


If.Lisboni 


ZPlainfield'^ 


Franconia ' 
Sugar  Hill 


Coosuo  House 
WELLS  RIVER'®' 

WOODSVILLi 


Ifewbury 

Smith; 


f^« 


^nadford 


laverhilA 


^XJMJEi 


\«l)/. 


TFarret\  © 
Summit 


.  ^ .:F  *fe 

I"  Moo«U»uk  ^"Ws^^ 

House 


jnion 


'..J 


W, 


<9''\'^ 


^l^' 


fU\\\\' 


G/tjelevBi 


.^ 


^^^'^ 


LIST  OF  HOTELS 


AND  — 


SUMMER  BOARDING  HOUSES 


•ON  THE  LINE  OP  THE- 


Boston,  Concord,  Montreal  anci  White  Mountains  Railroad, 

Giving  Location  and  number  of  Boarders  each  House  will  accommodate. 

OOMVZXillD  BXymBMIiT  FOB  KBVII8'  HAND  BOOS. 


GUILDHALL,  VERMONT. 

W.  H.  Hartshorn,    Essex  Holel  60 

A.  M.  Wilder  15 

LUNENBURG,  VT.    One  mile  from  South  Lan- 
caster. 

J.  M.  Lucas  12 

Chester  Dodge  8 

Chandler  House  25 

Levi  Barnard  10 

S.  T.  Hale  10 

DALTON,  N.B. 

Sumner  House  75 


LANCASTER,  N.  H. 


B.  H.  Corning, 
F.  Richardson, 

C.  C.  Wilder 
Stephen  Eames 
B.  F.  Hunkin 
Charles  Larkin 
Joseph  Hopkins, 
W.  J.  Rowell, 


Lancaster  House 
American  House 


Williams  Hotel 
Hillside  Cottage 


150 
75 
20 
20 
10 
12 
40 
40 


Plalsted  House 
Hill  House 
Sunnyslde  House 
Maple  House 
Mount  Adams  House 


JEFFERSON,  N.E.  Snenmilea  from  Lancaster. 

Merrill  &  IMuisted,   Wambek  House 

B.  H.  Plalsted, 

T.  J.  Bedell, 

Warren  Hicks, 

Mrs.  Bowles, 

John  Cnunshaw, 

l;.  A.  Crawford 

Jharles  Guile 

Moses  and  Gkorge  Woodward 

\r,  H.  Crawford 

Woodward,      Summer  House 

Levi  Slarbird 

WHITEFIELD,  N.  H. 
Wm.  P.  Dodge,        View  House 


J.  S.  Piske, 
M.  H.  Abbott, 
J.  M.  Aldrich 
Chas.  Aldrich 


Cherry  Mountaii^oose 
Whitefleld  House 


LITTLETON,  N.  E. 
H.  L.  Thayer,  Thayer's  Hotel 


W.  Jennison, 
Oak  Hill  House 
John  Merrill 
Mrs.  Cableigh 
JefTbrson  Hosmer 
Miss  Mattie  Eastman 
Dennis  Wheeler 
A.  R.  Burton 


Union  House 


200 
100 
75 
25 
25 
75 
25 
60 
25 
15 
25 
20 

60 
SO 
60 
85 
10 


150 
76 
70 
20 
20 
20 
20 
16 


LISBON  N.  H. 


m 


CAMPTON,  N.  n. 
T.  J.  Simborn 
J.  C.  Bl.ilr 
Lucius  Hannaford 


Three  miles  froii  Plymouth. 

65 
60 
10 


CAMPTON  VILLAGE,  N.  FL  Eight  miles  from 

Plymouth. 

Clias.  G.  Webster  10 

Timothy  W.  Mitchell  SO 

Steplien  I).  Kinsman  If 

Osmond  C.  FoAs  46 

Suldon  C.  Wilder  20 

William  Thornton  20 

Flank  Chase  40 

Charles  Cutter  20 

Dr.  W.  A.  Smith  10 

Fred'k  A.  Milchell  16 

Geo.  Foss  20 

Merrill  Greeley  (IS  miles)  60 

THORNTON,  N.  H.    Nine  miles  from  Plymouth. 

William  Merrill  25 

WEST  THORNTON,  N.  H.     Ttoelve  miles  from 

Plymouth. 

Griiflon  House  26 

Union  House  40 

y  WOODSTOCK,  N.H.    Seventeen  miles  from 

Plymouth. 

Isaac  Fox  85 


NORTH  WOODSTOCK,  N.  H. 

Twenty  miles 

from  PlymouUi. 

Curtis  Parker 

26 

Chandler  Russell 

20 

William  Dearborn 

16 

James  Darling 

10 

Geo.  Russell 

20 

LINCOLN,  N.  U.     Tuienty-floe  miles  from 

Plymouth. 

Flume  House,  150 


BRIDGEWATEB,  N.  H. 
W.  R.  Webster 
D.  M.  Webster 
John  B.  Marston 

MEREDITH  VILLAGE,  N.H. 
J.  P.  Ladd  <fe  Co.,  Prospect  House 
G.  E.  Oilman 
Andrew  Smith 


J.  P.  Norrls 


01 


10 
18 
10 


eo 

25 

60 

20 


^Kadford 


Summit 


WARREI4'      « 

'Moosllauk  ■'•■rf^' 


House 


tl 


Union  Il^^e, 
Grufton  H< 


■ 


WentwaiHh^ 


GrcielerSi 


Sanborns 


i 


voCampton  ViUage 


o« 


WtBumney      0^ 


PassacopomyML^:;^-^ 


}SiS^^JII.M..&i   .   White  Face  mW ' 


^[wMteJtiver  Junction 


> 


PLYMOUTH 

V 'Pomigewasaset  W 
House 
Vriilgewater  ^'' 

AsMc 


igff^dHJll 


;'//((v^ 


• '■■."/'"'(iiiHV- 


Ossipee 


t^oulton  House 

' -^Center  Harbor^ 

)ter  Jimae 


4f^f>  @iF 


THS 


]V[otLqtkiq^I<^e  f(e^on 


Jllm  Bouse' 
JUereditK\ 


TewHIampton  0&1 

IVeira 


Ji 


-OP- 


HAMPf 


SHOWING  THE  LOCATION  OF  THB 


^^•omiSSnt  Hotels,       Rouses, 


WINN1Mm\ 


It.Belknl 
like  Tittage 

^viWiriard  House 
■ilMconia 
^■Xaconia  House 

r*3Irs.Taylors 

'  "Winnisquam  House 
i'E.IHUon 

r^elmont 


CHltnanton 


AND  THE  ROUTE  OF  THE 


CO 

o 

p  JE^o^e  Concord 


/: 


onireHl  d  ^hite  (ffauntuiifs  ^mtrand 


■WHICH  Fonais  the 


toONOORD 


pHORTE^T  ^  ^ojST  Convenient  1\oute  Thereto. 


RMO.MoNallyJ 


-  Grepleys 


'sacojimay/liA 


mimwKimu.if. 


mont 


'^  Alton  Bay ' 


CHlmanton 


^ 


Rana,MoNally*Co.,M«p  Engir»vtrt,Cnioago. 


H.  L.  Thayer,            Tliiiyor's  Hotel 

ISO 

W.  It.  Wnlisicr 

10          ■ 
18          ■ 
10        ■ 

W.  Jeiiiildon,             Union  Uoum 

76 

I).  M.  Wi'Imler 

Oak  Hill  rinuse 

70 

John  B.  Maritton 

John  Merrill 

ao 

Mm.  Cableigh 
Jeffi-nou  Hoamer 
MUi  Mallle  Eusiman 
Dennia  Wheeler 

20 

MKUKDlTn  VILLAGE,  N.U. 

I 

80 
SO 
15 

J.  P.  Lndil  A  Co.,  ProsiHJCt  House 
G.  E.  Gihnnn 
Andrew  Smith 

60        ■ 

A.  R.  Burton 

80 

C.  P.  Towie 

£        ■ 

LI8H0N  N.  H. 

J.  P.  Norrls 

20      M 

A.  M.  M'lore,           Aminonoosiic  Houm 

40 

G.  M.  Burleigh,  Elm  House 

SO     ^ 

4  tinan  Olynn,            Dubon  Houa* 
M.  UowleM 

35 

■ 

16 

LACONIA,  If.  II. 

■ 

A.  H.  Elliott 

12 

Laconia  House 

800         ■ 

K,  W.  Uartlett 

20 

Wlllard  House 

ise      ■ 

M.-8.  E.  M.  Gleaaon 

10 

Mrs.  Taylor's  House 

160         ■ 

C.  E.  McAlliater 

26 

WInnlsquam  House 

100         ■ 

sua  A  ft  UlL  L,  N.  a.    Four  nUUtfrom  LUbon. 

LAKE  VILLAGE,  N.  H. 

1 

Mr.  Uoodnough 

80 

MU  Belknap  House 

50         ■ 

Mr.  Whipple 

10 

■ 

Mr.  Bowles 

25 

HOLDERNESa,  N,n.    Tkree  milea  from  Aah-           ■ 

Jason  Comina 

15 

land. 

■ 

J.  A.  Baker 

H 

Fit  A  yCONlA,  N.  B.    Five  milea  from  LUUeton. 

■ 

Charles  EiJsoa 

80 

\QILM ANTON,  N.H.    TenmiletfromTiltoru            ■ 

Burt  A  Knight,        Valley  House 

85 

Cyrus  Varney 

1 

Simeon  tSpooner 

85 

John  C.  Baker 

I 

Ivory  H.  Glover 

20 

R.  J.  Varney 

■ 

Win.  H.  Brooks 

15 

J.  H.  Drew 

■ 

Ja-ion  Coma 

25 

G.  W.  Hodgdon 

E.  H.  Goodnough 

80 

J.  C.  Marsh 

1 

Joel  Spooner  A  Sou,  Lafayette  House 

60 

Mrs.  E.  Holbrook 

H 

Mrs.  M.  F.  Shattuck 

25 

J.  Blake 

30          H 

D.  K.  Priest 

16 

Tad  &  Greeiilear,  Profile  House,  \  I  miles  from 

BKLMONT.    Six  nUlen  from  TUton. 

^M 

Littleton,  or  28  miles  ft-om  Plymouth 

450 

J.  Bodger 

1 

C.  D.  Bryant 

1 

BETHLEHEM,  N.  U. 

Sincliilr  House 

125 

TILTON,  N.  U. 
J.  Coffin 

I 

Maple  Wood  House 

65 

Mr.  Dennis 

■ 

Cyrus  E.  liunker,      Agossiz  House 

65 

A.Elliott 

1 

Geo.  W.  Phillips,      Prospect  House 

1(10 

Hiram  Glines 

I 

Jus.  K.  Barrett,         Howard  House 

60 

William  Clouph 

1 

Jus.  K.  Barrett,        New  House 

65 

Geo.  Davis 

■ 

Thomas  W.  Bean 

60 

Mrs.  Knowlton 

■ 

Eli.'^ha  Swett 

40 

■ 

Wm.  (J.  (Simpson 

85 
86 
85 

WOLFHOBOUGH,   N.  U.     {Steamer.)     Fifteen          | 

James  N.  Turner 
Wm.  U.  Bunker 

miles  from  Weira,  on  Lake  Winnipesaukee 
E.  Stanton,         Pavilion  House 

250          1 

Sewell  F.  Winch 

85 

Geo.  Kenniston,  Lake  House 

100           1 

Mis.  Joseph  Plummet 

28 

J.  L,  Peavey,      Glendon  House 

150          1 

Siineou  U  Thayer 

25 

Daniel  Horn,       Bellevue  House 

100          1 

Thomas  J.  Spooner 

20 

Levi  Ham,          Glen  House 

1 

Wil.son  Beiin 
H.  W.  Wilder 

18 
35 

J.  B.  Maniierlng,  Prospect  House 
John  G.  Cate 

^          1 

Hyrou  Bailey 

14 

J.  B.  Haines 

H 

HAVERHILL,  N.  H. 

John  L.  Haines 

20            H 

Chas.  G.  Smith,        Smith's  Hotel 

80 

A.  S.  Lll)bey 

■ 

Mrs.  Allen  bailey 

15 

10 

Alfred  Brown 
James  J.  Randall 

20           H 

Perley  Ayer 
Geo.  W.  Chapman 
Alden  S.  Cliftord 
James  Woodward 
Miss  Lizzie  Sloan 

16 

10 

10 

8 

Mrs.  Mary  G.  Newell 
Mrs.  Sarah  A.  Libbey 
John  L.  Meader 
Jas.  W.  Piper 
Moses  Varney 

:  1 

WABBEN,  N.  H, 

Chas,  S.  Parsons 

20           1 

Moosilaftk  House 

80 

James  Lovering 

15           1 

/  raos  Clement 

10 

B.  Dlckerson 

15            1 

Kath.  Merrill 

15 

1 

PLYMOUTH,  N.  H. 
C.  M.  Morse-            PemlRewasset  House  J 
SHchanan  A  Willis,  Plymouth  HouM 
W.  G.  Hull 
Dr.  J.  W.  Preston 
Dr.  Flanders 
Bben  Smith 

800 
00 
80 
20 
60 
10 

CENTEB  HABBOB,  N.  H.     (Steamer.)     Ten 

milea  from  Wdra,on  Lake  WimUpeaaukee. 
J.  L.  Huntress,  Senter  House                             150 
Almon  Benson                                                      80 
W.  A.  Page                                                         2J 
S.  F.  Emery,     Moulton  House                           75 
B.  F.  Kelsea                                                          «> 

88 


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ij 


CHAPTER  II. 


NOKTIIERN  PLEASUEE  TRAVEL, 

NEW  HAMPSHIRE. 


The  ancient  name  of  Now  Hampshire,  or  of  the  old  prov- 
ince which  comprised  it,  was  Laconia — so  called  by  reason 
)f  tile  great  lakes  therein.  It  was  enfeoffed  to  Capt.  John 
ilason,  witli  Sir  Ferdinando  Gorges,  Kt.,  (1629,)  described  in 
th(}  grant  as  **  lying  and  bordering  upon  the  great  lakes  of  the 
[riqiiois  and  other  nations  ac^oining,  extending  back  to  the 
;roat  rivers  of  Canada;"  and  described  in  an  English  book 
)n  America,  published  in  London  (1658),  as  *•  having  the  Sag- 
ulahook  and  Myrameck  rivers  on  the  New-England  sea- 
joast;"  also  *' the  ff real  lakes  timt  tend  towards  California  and 
\he  South  Sea,  on  the  west  thereof.''^  "  The  air  thereof  is  pure 
iiul  wliolesome,  the  country  pleasant,  having  some  high  hills 
full  of  goodly  forests  and  fair  vallies  and  plains  of  fruitful 
3orn,  vines,  nuts,  and  infinite  sort  of  fruits;  large  rivers,  en- 
'^ironed  with  goodly  raeatlows  full  of  timber-trees." 

An  act  of  the  General  Assembly,  (1704,)  made  it  the  duty 
)f  every  householder  within  the  several  towns  of  the  prov- 
ince, "  to  provide  one  good  pair  of  snow-shoes,  and  moga- 
sheens,  (with  penalty  for  default,)  and  to  replace  and  repair 
the  same,  the  better  to  enable  them  to  pursue  the  enemy  in 
winter." 


40 


NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


The  Granite  Commonwealth  has  been  described  as  a  good 
place  to  emigrate  from ;  and,  perhaps  no  State  in  the  Union 
retains  so  few  of  its  enterprising  sons  on  the  homesteads 
among  the  hills :  but,  it  may  also  be  safely  asserted  that  no 
other  State  has  more  reason  to  be  proud  of  the  sons  and 
daughters  sent  forth  to  the  world,  and  to  no  spot  do  the  absent 
look  back  with  more  of  affection  and  reverent  love.    That 

*        ♦        ♦        *        *        •the  land 

Of  etorms  and  mountains  hath  the  nobleat  sons; 

Whom  the  world  reverences." 

is  proved  to  be  true  of  this  land  of  hills,  as  well  as  of  other 
ands,  and  in  other  times.     The  wildness  of  the  mountains 
scenery,  in  the  northern  section  of  the  State,  attr  *cts  that  ar  ■ 
my  of  visitors  for  whose  use  this  book  has  been  prepared. 

THE  MERRIMACK  RIVER. 


"Our  Christian  river  loveth  most 

The  beautiful  and  human ; 
The  heathen  streams  of  Naittds  boast, 

But  ours  of  man  and  woman." 

By  whichever  way  the  capital  of  the  State  is  approached 
from  the  south,  the  way  for  several  miles  is  along  the  banks 
of  the  fViir  Merrimack,  preeminently  the  river  of  uses,  sub- 
servient to  almost  every  industry. 

It  was  said  in  the  quaint  language  of  the  early  discoverers, 
to  be  a  **  faire,  large  river,  well  replenished  with  fruitful  isles ; 
the  country  pleasant,  full  of  goodly  forests  find  faire  vallies," 
a  description  that  answers  well  for  the  present,  though  made 
when  its  waters  ran  un vexed  to  the  sea. 

Rising  in  sources  more  than  five  thousand  feet  above  sea 
level,  tba  Pimigew.asset  and  Winnipesaukee  rivers  unite  at 
Franklin,  forming  the  Merrimack.  The  Winnipesaukee  is 
the  outlet  of  the  great  lake,  and  the  water-power  companies 
of  the  cities  below  have  wisely  provided  artificial  means  to 
retain  in  tiiis  great  natural  reservoir  a  reserve  of  power  in 
times  of  drought. 


^IPipi 


NORTHERN   PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


41 


A.long  the  banks  of  this  fair  stream  we  are  now  whirled. 
As  its  sources  are  more  varied,  so  are  its  uses  more  manifold 
than  any  stream  of  its  extent  and  volume  in  the  world.  Gath- 
ered from  infant  streams,  born  in  the  placid  ponds  of  the 
Franconia  Valley,  and  high  up  on  the  summit  of  Mount  Wil- 
l(^y,  in  the  Crawford  Notch,  and  receiving  waters  from  tlie 
outlets  of  Winnipesaukee,  Squam  and  Newfound  lakes,  from 
the  slopes  of  distant  Monadnock  and  Kearsage,  through  the 
Contoocook,  Blackwater  and  tributaries ;  and,  farther  down, 
from  the  outlet  of  Massabesic,  the  Suncook,  Souhegan,  Nash- 
ua, Concord, 'Spicket  and  Shawsheen  rivers,  it  discharges 
into  the  Atlantic,  after  its  broken  and  busy  flow  of  260  miles 
by  its  course. 

The  fine  imagination  of  Whittier  thus  invokes  the  fair 
stream,  at  a  merry  gathering  upon  the  river  bank: 

"  liring  us  lli«  airs  of  tlie  hillH  and  foro-t8, 
The  sweet  aromii  of  birch  and  pino, 
flivo  MS  a  waft  of  the  north  wind  laden 
With  sweet  brier  odosi  and  breath  of  kine! 

Lead  us  away  in  shades  and  sunshine, 

Sliives  of  fani;y,  througli  all  tiiy  miles, 

Tlie  winding  ways  of  the  Pemigewasset,  , 

And  Winiiiposaiikt'e's  hundred  isles." 

Lowell,  Nashua,  Manchester  and  Lawrc^nce  are  the  chief 
manufacturing  centres  utilizing  its  power;  with  a  iiost  of 
lesser  towns,  upon  its  banks  and  tributaries,  deriving  their 
inipoi^.ance  from  the  water-powers  here  so  generally  use<l. 

CONCORD,  N.  11. 

This  capital  city  of  the  good  Granite  State  is  a  steady-going, 
tiu-ifty  and  eminently  respectable  municipality;  one  of  the 
cleanest  and  most  well-to-do  of  New  England  cities:  lacking 
water-power  to  attract  the  heavy  manufacturers,  it  is  depend- 
ent upon  its  central  position  for  trade,  and  its  importance  as 
the  political  centre  of  the  State,  ftn*  its  elements  of  growth. 
The  town  was  described,  in  a  petition  of  the  inhabitants  of 
the  town  of  Rumford  to  the  General  Ass(>mbly  of  the  prov- 
ince, 1775,  as  "having  Mansion  Houses.  Fortifications  and 


'  'I 


!         'V 


42 


NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


|l   •    ': 


ill 


;V'?!'? 


lii:i.11 


out-houses,  well  formed  for  defence,  being  on  the  Merrimack 
River  about  a  day's  march  below  the  conlhience  of  the  Win- 
nipishoky  and  Ptnumissavvassett  Rivers."  In  this  petition 
the  inhabitants  ask  that  their"*  antient  and  well-regulated 
settlement  may  have  seasonable  aid  for  protection  against  a 
bloodthirsty  and  merciless  enemy,  who  threaghten  the  life  of 
the  settlement,  and  render  danger  of  evacuation  eminent." 

The  State  House  is  finely  situates!  in  the  heart  of  the  city, 
between  Maine  and  State  streets,  and  the  enclosed  grounds, 
some  two  acres  in  extent,  are  laid  out  in  pleasant  walks. 

Sons  of  New  Hampshire  who  may  tarry  here,  if  but  for  an 
hour,  should  visit  the  gallery  of  portraits  of  eminent  sons  of 
the  State,  including  a  recently  collected  series  of  paintings 
of  the  local  Governors,  from  the  courtly  fejitures  and  dress  of 
the  old  colonial  times,  through  the  long  line  of  rulers  of  this 
wisely  and  lightly  govern(3d  commonwtjalth,  down  to  the 
well-known  and  much  abused  modt?rn  governor.  In  the  Sen- 
ate-chamber are  the  porti^nits  of  the  presiding  ollicers  of  the 
Senate,  who  have  been  among  the  most  (jminent  men  of  the 
State. 

In  the  Representative's  Ilall  are  fine  portraits  of  General 
John  Stark,  of  Bennington  fame ;  also  of  Gen.  Alex'r  Scham- 
mel  and  Gen.  Enoch  Poor,  companions  and  intimates  of  La- 
fayette,— with  other  line  portraits  more  universally  known. 

The  State  Asylum  for  the  Insane,  with  its  extensive  build- 
ings and  grounds,  is  upon  a  gra<lual  swell  of  land  on  the 
western  limits  of  the  city  i)roper.  The  State  Prison  is  souk;- 
what  ancient  in  its  appearance,  but  saftily  holds  its  inmates, 
and  is  so  centrally  located  as  to  stand  a  continual  warning  to 
good  citizens  to  continue  in  the  way  of  well-doing. 

From  the  granite  quarries  of  Concord  have  been  built  many 
of  the  finest  structures  of  the  adjacent,  as  well  as  distant 
cities.  The  quarrying  of  this  superior  building  stone,  from 
neighboring  hills,  is  an  important  industry  of  the  city. 

Concord  coaches  are  a  specialty  in  carriage  manufac- 
ture: wherever  you  ride  by  coach-lines,  whether  over  tlio 
])ieturesque  White  Mountain  roads,  the  wide  reaches  of  the 
western  border,  t>ii  the  plains  of  Mexico,  or  the  Steppes   of 


NORTHERN   PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


43 


Central  America,  the  well  known  name  of  Concord  makers 
is  upon  the  vehicle  which  conveys  you ;  and,  if  the  horses 
are  housed  in  the  famous  Concord  harness  manufactured  here 
by  James  R.  Hill,  Esq.,  you  have  added  security  for  safe 
passage  and  delivery ;  for  nowhere  in  the  country  is  better 
material  or  more  honest  labor  put  into  carriage  and  harnesg 
work  than  is  done  by  these  makers,  whose  wide  local  reputa- 
tion has  become  a  national  one :  their  work  is  in  demand 
wherever  superior  workmanship  and  material  is  required. 

Concord  was  incorporated  as  a  town  by  the  government  of 
Massachusetts  in  1783,  under  the  name  of  Rumford.  The 
massacre  of  five  citizens  of  the  town  by  Indians,  in  1746,  is  a 
matter  of  history  well  known  to  all  familiar  witli  local  rec- 
ords. A  plain  granite  monument  on  the  Hopkinton  road 
marks  the  vicinity  of  the  tragedy. 

The  St.  Pan!  School,  for  boys,  is  a  flourishing  institution 
at  Millville,  some  two  miles  from  the  city  proper,  on  tiie  Hop- 
kinton road  and  Turkey  river.  There  are  tasty  buildings,  in 
:i  pretty  location,  in  the  quiet  valley.  Tlie  School  is  under 
the  patronage  of  the  Episcopal  denomination,  and  is  a  model 
institution,  liberally  patronizo.l. 

Long  before  the  white  man  ruled  in  the  realm,  the  centre 
of  savage  authority  was  at  Pennacook,  the  Indian  village  lo- 
c.ited  on  the  present  site  of  the  city.  The  P(;nnacooks  were 
:v  powerful  tribe,  and  Passaconnaway,  their  great  Sangamon, 
was  a  sav  "'e  ruler,  and  counsellor  of  acknowledged  wisdom 
and  power,  co  whom  the  lesser  tribes  were  tributary. 

Concord  is  not  wanting  in  good  hotels ;  and  wiiether  your 
stay  here  be  short  or  for  a  long  times  all  tiie  substantial  (rom- 
forts  and  desirable  conveniences  which  guests  may  desire, 
can  be  had  for  reasonable  charges,  at  the 


i    i 


,      :M 


mi    ;" 


44 


NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


^!!|i| 


Presided  over  by  J.  R.  Crocker,  Esq.,  a  popular  and  ofli- 
cient  landlord.  Excellent  rooms  and  gentlemanly  attendance, 
witli  substantial  plenty,  arc  sure  to  be  found.  The  location  i 
is  in  tlie  centre  of  business,  on  Main  street,  near  to  Ilail\v:iy| 
Station,  with  frtje  coaches  for  patrons  to  and  from  all  trains. 
Also,  at  the 


j) 

• 

f, 

^ 

'  1 

D 

•> 

}■ 

O 

ii 

y 

s^ 

", 

( 

U 

III 

f> 

1^ 

' 

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t 

H 

0 

li( 

KH 

1 

1 

>^ 

11/ 

U 

9ii 

Nirt 

■I' 

^iN 

m 

P- 

factured,  from  the  liKhlest  nmil  flneiit  hufgnj 
nnd  carria|i(e  to  tbe  heaviest  farm  and  stnge  liariicsn, 
all  stitched  by  hand.  During  tlie  past  Ave  years  tlie  estab- 
lishment has  furnished  some  of  the  nicvsit  and  most 
recherche  turn-outs  to  be  found  on  the  fimhSonable 
driven  of  the  country.  Tliey  also  make  a  hirgo  number 
of  coach,  cxprens,  and  pcddlcm'  harncim,  and 
have  api  cxIeiitiiTe  trade  with  harness-makers,  sad- 
dle ry  men,  and  horse,  carriage  and  harness  dealers." 


S02IE  ADDITIONAL  THINQS  WE  HAVE  TO  SA7 


Informatian  for  those  who  desire  to  purchase  or  use 
"THE  CONCORD  HARNESS," 

Which  has  received  the  unqualified  commendation  of  every 
one  who  has  used  them,  in  every  part  of  this  country  and 
in  foreign  lands. 

We  shall  keep  its  manufacture  fully  up  to  the  high 
standard  we  have  adopted.  Having  increased  our  facilities 
for.  manufacturing,  we  are  now  prepared  to  fill  more 
orders  than  ever  before,  and  are  filling  orders  to  the  trade 
all  over  the  country. 

The  reputation  our  Harnesses  have  acquired  during  the 
past  thirty  years,  renders  it  unnecessary  for  us  to  say  but 

m 

littlQ,in  regard  to  their  merits;  but  as  some  may  not  have 
had  the  opportunity  of  becoming  acquainted  with  their 
value  and  our  method  of  making  them,  we  would  say,  for 
the  information  of  all  such,  that  they  are  made  in  the  most 
thorough  manner,  from  tbe  best  of  stock  and  materials, 
all  of  which  are  selected  by  ourselves  with  great  care;  and 
the  test  of  every  climate  from  East  to  West,  and  from 
betwecH  North  and  South,  proves  thom  to  be  uncqualed. 
Our  great  experience  in  the  business,  and  ui-ing  such 


O 


t 


(?) 


B 
8 

a 
1 
I 

a 


i^^^^iiii^gi 


•MMIiltHI 


SOME  THINGS 


SAY  ABOUT 


'Tl  GOieeRD  HARNm," 


No  Man  Claims  to  do  More. 

The  Harness  and  Carriage  Makers'  Jotimal  under  date 

j^fJan.  13,  1872,  in  an  article   on  harness,  s.'.ys:—"' The 

pONCORD  Harness  '  deservedly  holds  a  high  reputation 

tbe  trade.     It  is  better  than  niiything  of  the 

(ind  made  in  Europe)  and   has  a  g-reat  repu- 

II ion   abroad.     In  South  America  and  Australia  it 

jmraands  the  highest  prices,  and   wherever   ffood 

harness  is  appreciated  in  America,  the  cusfom- 

indc  warranted  work  of  Concord  ia  preferred  for  all 

hndM  of  service.    This  harness,  manufactured  exclw 

yoely  by  J.  R.  Hill  &  Co.  of  Concord,  N.  H.,  has  a 

sputniion  for  excellence  which  it  has  been  found 

^cessary  to  protect  from  imitation  by  procuring  a  patent 

I  the  trade-mark,  which  is  *  THE  CONCORD  HAB- 

fESS.' 

"The business  has  grown  up  with  the  country  from  a 
lall  beginning,  and  has  assumed  proportions  that 
lake  it  one  of  the  prominent  representative 
rivate  industries  of  the  country^  and  has  given 
^aracter  not  only  to  the  harness  manufacture  of  the 
lie,  but  also  to  that  of  New  England,  for  tlie 
ison  that  NO  MAX\n  the  business  CLAIMS  to  do 
|ore  than  make  as  srood  a  harness  as  JA8. 
HILL  &  CO.  of  Concord." 


'he  Best  Harness  that  can  be  Made. 

The  Idaho  Statesman  under  date  of  February,  1874,  in 
jrring  to  the  celebrated  Concord  Harness,  says:—"  They 

|ry  truthfully  say,  '  if  you  once  buy  our  harness  we  shall 
2t  to  sell  you  all  the  harness  you  use.'  We  have 
the  Concord  Harness  and  ivonid  reconi* 
fnd  everj  man  who  wants  a  harness  to  send 
F.  H.  Hill  &  Co.  at  Concoi-d,  N.  H.,  dew-ribing  the  kind 

|harne83  he  wants,  and  he  will  get  the  best  har- 
ts that  can  he  made,  and  A8  CHEAP  as  if 
[were  there  to  contract  in  person." 


(1) 


Superior  in  Styl 

"  We  have  sold  their  (the  Concord)  Ha 
seven  years,  and  we  pronoiinco  them  to 
IN    STYLE    and    DURABILIT 
Eastern  harness.      We  keep  a  compl 
them  " 

GWINN  &  BRAINERD 


Is  Sufficient  for  ail  Pi 

In  reference  to  the  popidarity  and 
**The  Concord  Jlarness,"  the  Cj 
writing  under  date  of  Sept.  14, 1860,  in  r« 
neas  of  Main  &  Winchester,  prominen 
Francisco,  and  who  were  at  that  time  ac 
Messrs.  Hill  &  Co.,  says:— "They  s 
and  well  known,  the  mcutioi 
that  tliey  have  the  Concord  Harness  fo 
cient  for  all  purposes." 


i( 


Will  Never  Change  It  for 

The  Chicago  Evening  Post  under  dat* 
says:— "Tliose  who  purchase  the  Conco 
never,  under  any  consideration 
another  kind.  It  is  not  over  expensive,  ■ 
best  materials,  and  WILL  LAST  AS 
POSSIBLE  TO  MAKE  ANYTHING  MAN 
HUMAN  SKILL  ENDUUE." 

You  will  please  bear  in  mind  that  the  : 
description  of  Harness,  and  the  custom 
tastes   gratified   in   every   particular, 
made  to  his  exact  liking. 


First  Harness  ever  used  in 

The  Harness  and  Carriage  Makers*  Jo\ 
of  Jan.  28, 1871,  in  an  article  referring  to 
of  Harness  and  Carriages  in  New  Engla 
said  that  the  first  liarness  ever  used  in  B 
made  by  this  firm.  Be  that  as  it  may,  tl 
edly,  among  the  pioneers  of  the  business 
of  harness,  not  only  to  all  parts  of  t 
but  to  the  other  civilized  countries 
Here  every  class  and  style  of  hi 


^2; 


jperior  in  Style. 

;Leir  (the  Concord)  Harness  for  the  last 

0  pronounce  them  to  be  SUPERIOR 

nd    DURABILITY    to  any  other 

We  keep  a  complete  assortment  of 

VINN  &  BRAINERD,  Pelaluma,  Cal. 


cient  for  ail  Purposes. 

the  popularity  and  good  qualities  of 
JlavnesH,"  the  California  Farmer, 
3  of  Sept.  14, 1860,  in  reviewing  the  busi- 
Winchester,  prominent  dealers  in  San 
o  were  at  that  time  acting  as  agents  of 
lo.,  says:— "They  nr«  ho  w^ldvly 
ftwii,  the  mention  of  the  fact 
be  Concord  Harness  for  sale  is  suffl- 
ioses." 


>r  Change  it  for  Another." 

)ening  Post  under  date  of  May  11, 1872, 
10  purchase  the  Concord  Harness  will 
any  consideration,  change  it  for 
is  not  over  expensive,  is  made  from  the 
and  WILL  LAST  AS  LONG  AS  IT  IS 
AKE  ANYTHINO  MANUFACTURED  BY 
JNDURE." 

bear  in  mind  that  the  firm  make  every 
xness,  and  the  customer  can  have  his 
n  every  particular,  and  the  liarnees 
t  Hking. 


(s  ever  used  In  a  Kingdom. 

Carriage  Makers*  Journal  under  date 
an  article  referring  to  the  manufacture 
irriages  in  New  England,  says:— "It  is 
larness  ever  used  in  Bolivar,  S.  A.,  was 

Be  that  as  it  may,  they  are,  undoubt- 
oneeraof  the  business  in  the  shipment 
ly  to  all  parts  of  this  continent, 
civilized  countries  of  the  world. 
and  style  of  harness  is  manu- 


(2) 


factureii,  from  the  lightest  nnd  flnent  bug-^y 
Bn«I  carriage  to  the  heaviest  farm  and  stage  harness, 
all  stitclietl  by  hand.  During  the  past  Ave  years  the  ostab- 
li  \ment  lias  furnished  some  of  the  niceiit  and  most 
recherche  tarn-outs  to  be  found  on  the  fniiiilonabie 
driven  of  the  country.  They  also  make  a  large  number 
of  coach,  exprens,  and  poddlem'  harnemi,  and 
liave  api  exteniiire  trade  with  harness-makers,  sad- 
(lUry  men,  and  horse,  carriage  and  harness  dealers." 

♦  ♦• 


SOME  ADDITIONAL  THINGS  WS  HAVE  TO  SA7 


Information  for  those  who  desire  to  purchase  or  use 
"THE  CONCORD  HARNESS," 

Which  has  received  the  unqualified  commendation  of  every 
one  who  has  used  them,  in  every  part  of  this  country  and 
in  foreign  lands. 

We  shall  keep  its  manufacture  fully  up  to  the  high 
standard  we  have  adopted.  Having  increased  our  facilities 
for,  manufacturing,  we  are  now  prepared  to  fill  more 
orders  than  ever  before,  and  are  filling  orders  to  the  trade 
all  over  the  country. 

The  reputation  our  Harnesses  have  acquired  durinf  the 
l)ast  thirty  years,  renders  it  unnecessary  for  us  to  say  but 
little  in  regard  to  their  merits;  but  as  some  may  not  have 
Lad  the  opportunity  of  becoming  acquainted  with  their 
value  and  our  method  of  making  them,  we  would  say,  for 
the  information  of  all  such,  that  they  are  made  in  the  most 
thorough  manner,  from  the  best  of  stock  and  materials, 
all  of  which  arc  selected  by  ourselves  with  great  care;  and 
the  test  of  every  climate  from  East  to  West,  and  from 
between  North  and  South,  proves  them  to  be  unoqualed. 

Our  great  experience  in  the  business,  and  uf-ing  such 


i?) 


large  quantities  of  stock,  enables  ns  to  sell  the  customer  a 
BETTER  HAHNEi^S  for  the  same  OB  LESS  HONEY  than 
can  be  obtained  of  any  other  party  in  this  country. 

We  give  our  entire  attention  to  our  business,  and  ererj 
Harnesa  ia  made  under  oiir  personal  anper- 
rision.  Our  work  is  all  custom-made  and  atitched  by 
hand  1  No  Harness  is  made  from  one  side  of  leather,  but 
the  several  parts  are  taken  from  the  leather  especially 
adapted  for  their  respective  use,  but  all  from  one  kind  of 
leather.  We  are  thus  enabled  to  get  perfect  straps  in 
every  part  of  the  Harnesn*  where  otherwise  it 
would  be  impossible ;  especially  when  the  harness  maker 
may  have  ©nly  a  limited  stock  or  supply  of  leather  from 
which  to  sislect.  We  are  very  particular  about  our  leather, 
and  the  results  hnvo  proved  that  IT  IS  THE  BEST  TO 
BE  HAD. 

Another  and  important  feature  in  a  Harness  is  to  have 
it  lit  the  horge.  This  should  not  be  lost  sight  of.  A  "  good 
fit "  is  as  essential  for  the  tine  appearance  and  look  of  a 
Harness,  as  that  of  a  garment  to  an  individual.  In  all  our 
Harnesses  we  intend  to  combine  neatnesi),  iiym<> 
metry)  streugtli  und  durability. 

All  of  our  Harnesses  are  custom-made,  and  if  you  once 
buy  our  Harness  ive  shall  expect  to  sell  yon  all 
the  Harness  you  usey  and,  through  your  recom- 
mendation, expect  to  sell  to  your  friends  and  neigh' 
bora  their  Harness.  From  this  you  can  fee  we  have  an 
interest  in  having  every  Harness  we  make  ALL  RIGHT 
IN  EVERY  PAKTIOULAR. 

This  business  is  no  new  thing  with  us.  For  a  third  of  a 
century  we  have  been  building  up  the  reputation  of  "  THE 
CONCORD  HARNESS,"  and  each  year  brings  us  new  and 
additional  business  from  every  part  of  the  country. 

ALL  WE  ASK  Is  a  fair  trial  of  our  Harness,  and  when 
we  have  that  we  know  wluit  the  result  will  be. 


W 


You  may  say  that  you  can  buy  Har 
and  save  expense  and  trouble.     Yo 
cheap  Harness  for  less  than  we  shoi 
set;  but  remember  it  is  not  always 
with  that  is  the  cheapest  in  the  end. 
experience  that  in  stock  and  trimn 
of  making  Harness  there  is  A  GRE 
and  we  claim  that    OUB    HABNE 
SUPERIOR  LEATHER  to  that   use( 
generally,  and  the  trimmings  and  m 
especially  for  us,  of  the  best  quali 
COST,  gives  us  a  great  advantage  oa 
makers  who  do  a  small  and  limited  bi 

FIiSASIS    REXSS 

Tliat  the  quality  and  standard  of  '« T 
WAS  NEVER  HIGHER  than  at  the 
WILL  BE  OUR  GREAT  AIM  to  give 
HON  to  all  who  may  use  them. 

We  wish  it  distinctly  tinder s\ 
Mark  consists  of  the  words 

"The  Concord  I 

We  stamp  our  firm  name  and  i 
our  Trade-Mark,  on  all  of  our  I 

protected  by  law  in  our  manufacture 

SPECIAL     NO" 

That  any  party  attempting  to  niak 

not  made  by  us  as  "  The  Concord  H 

ecuted  promptly  and  to  the  end  of  tl 

We  weuld  also  call  your  attention 

"The  Concord 

Which  has  been  so  well  known  ( 

(5) 


jT  that  you  can  buy  Harness  cheaper  at  home, 
inse  and  trouble.  You  probably  can  buy  a 
i  for  less  than  we  should  charge  for  a  good 
mber  it  is  not  always  the  cheapest  to  start 
e  cheapest  in  the  end.  You  will  find  by 
that  in  stock  and  trimmingd,  and  the  manner 
rness  there  is  A  GREAT  DIFFERENCE, 
1  that  OUR  HARNESS  ARE  MADE  OF 
EATHER  to  that  used  by  harness  makers 
the  trimmingd  and  mountings  being  made 
us,  of  the  best  quality,  REGARDLESS  OF 
i  a  great  advantage  over  all  other  harness 
}  a  small  and  limited  business. 

IiIiASZ!    REMEBKBER 

ty  and  standard  of  "The  Concord  Harness  " 
HIGHER  than  at  the  present  time,  and  it 
R  GREAT  AIM  to  give  ENTIRE  SATISFAC- 
bo  may  u8e  them. 

t  distinctly  understood  that  our  Trade - 
of  the  words 

I  Concord  Harness." 

ur  firm  name  and  residence  as  well  as 
lark,  on  all  of  our  Harnesses.  As  we  are 
iw  in  our  manufacture,  we  give 

SPECIAL     NOTICE, 

y  attempting  to  make  or  sell  any  Harness 
sas  "The  Concord  Harness,"  will  be  pros- 
ly  and  to  the  end  of  the  law. 
Iso  call  your  attention  to 

le  Concord  Collar," 

sen  80  well  known  during  the  past  thirty 


(5) 


years  throughout  the  country,  both  to  the  trade  and  the 
consumers.    When  they  have  once  been  used  by 

The  Farmer,  Teamster,  Stage  and  Liverymen, 

They  are  always  wanted  afterwarls.  We  do  not  try  to 
see  how  ch«»P)  but  how  yoofl  a  Collar  we  can  make. 
Every  one  is  made  in  the  most  thorough  manner  from 
the  best  of  stock,  all  of  whicli  is  prepared  expressly  for 
us;  and  the  style  is  with  especial  reference  for  the  ease 
and  comfort  of  the  horse,  having  that  peculiar  shape  to 
fit  the  neck  of  the  animal  — the  bellies  being  stuffed  with 
wool  flocks  to  render  them  soft  and  comfortable,  and  to 
prevent  galling  or  sore  shoulders. 

You  will  please  bear  in  mind  that  we  are  the  orlffinal 
and  only  maJcers  of  the  Genuine  Concord  Har- 
ness and  Collars.  Every  Collar  we  make  has  our  firm 
name  and  re^^idence  stamped  on  them,  and  any  Collars  not 
so  stamped  are  not  The  Genuine  Concord  Collars. 
Every  one  selling  an  imitation  Collar  and  representing  it 
as  our  make,  will  be  dealt  with  according  to,  and  to  the 
extent  of  the  law. 

Carefully  look  over  all  we  say,  and  become  satisfied  in 
your  own.  mind  that  we  talk  auil  inettit  sqiiure 
bii  Illness  and  then 

ACT. 

For  prices,  circulars,  or  any  information  concerning 
Harness,  address 

Your  most  obedient  servants, 

JAMES  R.  HILL  &  CO., 

CONCORD,   N.  H. 

Only  Makers  of  *'THB- CONCORD  HARNESS." 


W 


44 


cie 
wit 

•       • 

IS  ] 

Sta 

■i 


yaaxA  throughout  the  country,  both  to  tlie  tra<le  and  the 
oonsunien).   When  they  have  once  been  usetl  by 

The  Farmer,  Teamster,  Stage  and  Liverymen, 

They  are  always  wanted  afterwarls.  We  do  not  try  to 
see  how  ch«»P)  but  how  nooil  a  Collar  we  can  make. 
Every  one  is  made  in  the  most  thorough  manner  from 
the  best  of  stock,  all  of  which  is  prepare!  expressly  for 
us;  and  the  style  is  with  especial  reference  for  the  ease 
and  comfort  of  the  horse,  having  that  peculiar  shape  to 
fit  the  neck  of  the  animal — the  bellies  being  stuffed  with 
wool  flocks  to  render  them  soft  and  comfortable,  and  to 
prevent  galling  or  sore  shoulders. 

You  will  please  bear  in  mind  that  we  are  the  ortffinal 
and  only  makers  of  the  Genuine  Concord  Har- 
ness and  Collars.  Every  Collar  we  make  has  our  firm 
name  and  residence  stamped  on  tliem,  and  any  Collars  not 
so  stamped  are  not  The  Genuine  Concord  Collars. 
Every  one  soiling  an  imitation  Collar  and  representing  it 
as  our  make,  will  be  dealt  with  according  to,  and  to  the 
extent  of  the  law. 

Carefully  look  over  all  we  say,  and  become  satisfied  in 
your  own.  mind  that  M^e  talk  Mnil  mean  square 
biisinesM  and  then 

ACT. 

For  prices,  circulars,  or  any  information  concerning 
Harness,  address 

Your  most  obedient  servants, 

JAMES  R.  HILL  &  CO., 

CONCORD,   N.  H. 

Only  Makers  of  *'THB-  CONCORD  HARNESS." 


\   I 


ni  Tinniuj 


'kept  by 
[class  hoiil 
(tendants 
location  i| 
grounds. 


(6) 


The  roi 
[over  the 
Kail  road.  I 
jmountainj 
of  recreat 
read  with! 


NORTHERN    PLEASURE   TRAVEL. 


45 


Eagle  Hotel, 

kept  by  John  A.  White,  Esq.,  all  the  essentiuls  of  a  first 
[class  house  are  found,  with  an  excellent  table,  courteous  at- 
tendants and  spacious  rooms,  with  liberal  furnishing.    The 
jlocation  is  central,  fronting  the  State  capitol  buildings  and 
grounds.  ^ 

NORTHWARD  FROM  CONCORD. 

The  route  to  the  Mountains  or  Canadas,  from  Concord,  is 
lover  the  Boston,  Concord,  Montreal  and  White  Mountains 
I  Railroad.  Once  upon  its  express  trains,  we  are  driven 
jmountainward  with  speed  and  safety ;  and,  if  it  is  the  season 
lof  recreation,  and  you  have  given  care  to  the  winds,  you  will 
[read  with  curiosity  the  faces  of  traveling  companions,  and 


.J. 


I 


til 


:   I 


I 


lij  =-ii 


46 


NORTHERN   PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


study  the  peculiarities  of  fellow-passengers  who  thread  a 
common  thoroughfare,  haying  a  common  olycet.  Here  are 
celebrities  escaping  high  life  and  notoriety  for  a  quiet  tim(i  of 
peace  and  seclusion ;  shy  natures  courting  voluntary  banish- 
ment among  the  rockH  and  echoes ;  poets  seeking  near  com- 
munion with  nature  and  tlie 

"  MiihIc  of  liirdH  and  ruatllng  of  yontiK  bouglii, 
And  Buund  of  awnying  branchuH  and  the 
Voice  of  distiint  wntfrfulls:  " 

Merchants  from  the  routine  of  the  counting-house,  bluff  sea- 
captains,  exchanging  the  monotonous  view  of  the  rolling  bil- 
lows for  the  picturesque  changes  of  a  mountainous  landscape; 
overworked  pastors,  with  leave  of  absence  and  continued 
salary,  seeking  rest  for  a  season  from  the  delivery  of  prosy 
discourses  to  restless  congregations,  to  read  "sermons  in 
stones,"  written  by  the  hand  of  an  Almighty  Author  on  im- 
perishable granite  walls :  the  Princess  of  song,  mayhap,  is 
on  the  way  to  learn  that  her  art,  with  all  its  wonderful  perfec- 
tion, is  but  a  poor  immitation  of  the  song  of  the 


Or 


**  Wild  brook  babbling  down  tlie  mountain  side," 

"  A  full  choir  of  fuHtberud  choristers 
Wedding  their  notes  to  tlie  enamoured  air." 


The  artist  is  bound  for  a  pilgi'image  among  the  quiet  beau- 
ties of  North  Conway,  or  the  sweet  vales  of  Campton,  the 
loveliness  of  which  he  will  transcribe,  so  for  as  human  art 
may  do  it,  ere  he  returns  to  the  restraints  of  the  studio :  the 
pale  invalid  has  a  flush  of  hope,  in  view  of  expected  relief 
from  bodily  ills  among  the  pure  breezes  and  the  savage  rigor 
of  the  hills :  but  the  happiest  of  all  are  the  children — verita- 
innocents  abroad — to  whom  the 

"  Echo  of  cascade  and  voice  of  mountain  brook" 

bring  a  joy  unsullied  by  care,  and  on  whose  plastic  minds 
the  shadows  and  outlines  of  the  great  hills  fall  with  force  un- 
appreciated by  the  older  travelers. 

There  is  enough  of  the  savage  inherent  in  man  to  make 
unrestrained  liberty  of  movement  sweet,  however  much  it 


NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


47 


may  have  bocm  schooled  in  the  harness  of  conventionality,  or 
hampered  by  the  restraints  of  custom ;  and,  to  most  of  us 
who  have  escaped  for  a  time  from  city  life,  the  freedom  in 
store  is  a  blest  relief. 

"No  crowd  impedes  our  way, 

Nu  city  wallB  rcHtrnin  inir  further  Imundn; 
M'lutru  tlio  wild  flocic  ciiii  wiiudvr  we  niiiy  Ktrny, 

The  long  day  tlirougli,  mid  Summer  siglitH  and  Rounds.' 

THE  BOSTOIJ,  CONCORD,  MONTREAL  AND  WHITE 
MOUNTAIN  RAILROAD. 

This  line,  over  which  we  are  now  passing,  is  one  of  those 
shrewdly  and  liberally  managed  interior  lin(;s  of  travel  which 
have  acquired  a  wide  reputation  for  good  managc^ment  with 
the  great  army  of  pleasure  travelers  who  largely  patronize 
this  route  in  the  summer  months ;  threading  the  shores  of 
Lake  Winnipisaukee  and  the  outlying  bays,  thence  northward 
along  the  valley  of  Baker's  River  tx)  the  fair  Connecticut  val- 
ley ;  thence  over  the  White  Mountains  division,  by  the  Am- 
monoosuc  valley,  to  the  Mountains  and  Canadian  cities.  The 
passenger  has  the  advantage  of  picturesque  scenery,  while 
speed  and  safety  are  attained  by  making  use  of  iirst  class 
rolling  stock,  and  of  all  the  modern  appliances  and  conven- 
iences of  Railway  travel.  J.  E.  Lyon,  Esq.  of  Boston,  the 
v<iteran  Railway  manager,  is  the  President  and  controling 
spirit  of  the  road,  with  J.  A.  Dodge,  Esq.,  of  riymouth,  N. 
IL,  as  Superintendent — a  gentleman  who  combines  the  rare 
qualities,  invaluable  when  united,  of  great  efliciency,  with 
gentlemanly  address  and  reliability. 

Parlor  cars  are  run  on  all  through  Express  trains.  Tickets 
may  be  purchased,  information  obtained,  and  general  direc- 
tions given  at  the  passenger  agency  of  this  road,  N^ .  5,  State 
street,  Boston,  or  at  the  office  of  the  General  Ticket  Agent, 
at  Plymouth,  N.  H. 

After  leaving  the  Merrimack  intervales,  above  Concord, 
the  stations  are  not  such  as  to  particularly  interest  the  Stran- 
ger, nor  is  the  Country  sufficiently  attractive  to  charm  or  in- 
terest you,  until  you  reach  the  Station  at  Tilton,  at  which 


{• 


1 


.A 


f,;' 


48 


NORTHERN   PLEASURE   TRAVEL. 


1  I 


I'liii 


i:!  1 


Mr  ,11..; 


K: 


place  is  located  the  N.  H.  Conference  Seminary  and  Female 
College.  The  School  building  is  seen  on  the  high  ground  to 
the  left.  Stages  run  from  this  point  to  Gilmanton  Centre  and 
New  Hampton  and  to  Franklin,  N.  H. 

Shortly  after  leaving  Tilton  station  the  waters  of  lake  Win- 
nesquam  are  seen  to  the  left,  this  lake,  or  outlying  bay  of  Win- 
nipesaukee,  is  a  lovely  sheet  of  water  formerly  known  as  Sau- 
bornton  Bay  or  Great  Bay. 

LACONIA. 

This  thr'  ,'ing  village  is  27,  miles  from  Concord,  is  an  enter- 
prising and  live  manufacturing  village,  d>^sirable  as  a  place  of 
residence  and  important  as  a  trade  centre.  The  name  "  L:i- 
conia"  was  originally  given  to  the  whole  region  lying  about 
the  lakes  and  mountains. 

Here  are  located  the  Belknap  IV^ills,  Ranlet  Car  Company 
with  Iron  Foundries  and  machine  shops,  a  Bank  of  Discount 
and  two  Savings  Banks  with  all  the  accessories  of  a  desiral)le 
country  village. 

The  Laoonfa  House,  kjtpt.  by  Elkins  Brothers  is  a  new  and 
commodious  Ijouse,  atibrding  visitors  substantial  comforts  and 
all  needed  requisites  for  a  pleasant  temporary  home.  A  stage 
line  runs  from  here  to  Alton  Bay,  The  drive  to  Centue  Hak- 
lioH  is  one  of  rare  interest,  and  the  Belknap  and  Gunstock 
Mountains  are  often  visited  from  this  point;  the  view  from 
thii  highest  summit  gives  the  eye  wide  range  of  the  whole  ex- 
tent of  the  lake  from  a  central  point.  Good  teams  for  drives 
can  be  had  at  the  above  named  hotel.  Tiie  pleasant  residen- 
ces and  tasty  church  buildings  of  the  village  attract  attention 
as  the  through  passengfjr  is  hurried  on  to 

LAKE  VILLAGE, 
the  next  railway  station,  another  thriving  town  of  attractive 
appearance,  important  as  the  place  where  are  located  tlio 
construction  and  repair  shops  of  the  Boston,  Concord  and 
Montreal  Railroad  line,  with  manufactories  of  machinery  and 
mill  castings  (Cole  Manufacturing  Co.,)  Hosiery  mills  and, 
other  mills  of  importance  for  making  of  knitting  machines, 
needles,  &c. 


a 
I 


I 


IS  a  con: 
David  I^ 
who  may 
drives  in 
make  tiie 
S.  will  f. 
from  Lae 

From 
Bay, lyin 
Tlie  lake 
unpretenc 


probably 
fish'Weirs 
TJiis  is 
where  pa 
"  I-Jidy  oi 
Jjghtful  sj] 
^^•ilv'e,  to  tl 
ti  il  north 
''«auty  an 
in  next  el 


NORTHERN   PLEASURE  TRAVEL 


49 


The  Mount  Belknap  House 

is  .1  commodious  brick  structm'e,  near  the  railway  station; 
David  B.  Story,  Esq.,  is  the  obliging  landlord;  and  those 
who  may  tarry  here  for  a  time  will  find  no  lack  of  pleasant 
drives  in  the  surrounding  region,  and  no  one  should  fail  to 
make  the  trip  to  the  summit  of  Belknap.  For  these  trips  Mr. 
S.  will  furnish  good  teams  at  reasonable  rates.  The  stage 
from  Laeonia  to  Alton  Bay  connects  here. 

From  Lake  Village  the  railway  skirts  the  shores  of  Long 
Bay,  lying  to  the  riglit,  an  outlying  portion  of  the  lake  proper. 
The  lake  itself  now  conies  in  view  as  you  reach  the  small  and 
unpretending  station  standing  in  solitary  importance,  and 

WEIRS, 


probably  so  called  for  the  reason  that  here  were  located  the 
fish-weirs,  or  nets,  of  the  Indians. 

Tiiis  is  the  steamboat  landing  on  Lake  Winnipisaukee, 
where  passengers  can  leave  by  the  commodious  steamer, 
**  Lady  of  the  Lake,"  Capt.  S.  B.  Cole,  and  enjoy  the  de- 
lightful sail  of  ten  miles,  through  the  fmest  portion  of  the 
Lake,  to  the  quiet  and  pictun^sque  hamlet  at  the  head  of  cen- 
tral northern  bay,  so  loved  by  artists  and  sought  by  lovers  of 
In^iuty  and  (juiet — known  as  Centre  IIauuok,  fully  «lescribed 
in  next  chapter. 


Wffi 


CHAPTER  III. 


LAKE  WINNIPISAUKEE  AND  VICINITY. 


This  is  the  ancient  "  Winnapusseawkit,  Winnipaseket  or 
Winipasckek.''  If  it  be  not  sacrilege  to  apply  nu-asunimimt 
to  the  moltoii  surface;,  or  impossible  to  compute  in  miles  so 
irregular  a  form,  we  may  say,  in  general  terms,  that  tiie 
length  of  the  lake  is  some  twenty-five  milrs,  varying  in  width 
from  less  than  one  to  seven  miles  in  its  gic atest  breadth, 
giving  about  70  sq.  miles  surface.  Its  elevation  above  sua 
level  is  496  feet.  The  waters  are  of  a  deep,  clear  and  trans- 
parent green.  The  islands  (more;  than  three  hundred  in  num- 
ber) have  clearly  defined,  and,  with  some  exceptions,  low, 
rocky  shores,  and  are  covered  with  greenest  foliage.  On 
DiAMONiJ  Island,  which  is  a  sort  of  half-way  station  for  tiie 
boats  from  the  lake  landings,  and  at  which  the  "  Lady  of  the 
Lake"  makes  a  short  stop  in  its  trip  from  Wolfeoborougli  to  | 
Weirs,  is  a  comf<n"table  hotel,  accommodating  some  fity  guests, 
and  is  a  place  of  I'esort  for  picnic,  pleasure  and  fishing  parties, 
and  a  favorite  dining  station  for  excursionists.  Beak  Island, 
of  considerable  extent,  is  also  resorted  to  by  excursion  par- 
ties. Long  Island,  Governor's  Islai.d,  Rattlesnake  Island,  and 
Cow  Island  are  the  larger  of  the  isles  which  dot  the  lake; 
some  have  cultivated  farms,  others  are  used  solely  for  pastur- 
age, others  are  sacred  to  picnic  and  pleasure  parties,  while  the 
small  low  isles,  with  their  tangled  growth,  are  the  paradise  of 
ungainly  waterfowl. 

The  central  extent  of  nearly  unbroken  water,  is  known  as 


¥ 


mi'  m 

m 


•Til, 


11 


'  T-~"^«»^*PB 


E#ar  ■; 


lown  as 


\XH 


III 


1 1  *  i 

I  4 


,|i<  V 


u 


52 


NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRA'ViSL. 


"  The  Broads."  The  outlet  is  through  the  waters  of  Great 
Bay  and  the  swift  Winnipisaukee  river,  which  joins  the  Mer- 
rimack at  Franklin.  Its  source  of  supply  is  a  matter  of  spec- 
ulation ;  no  large  streams  find  their  way  into  it  and  much  of 
the  surrounding  water-shed  is  drained  into  other  lakes  and 
rivers  having  other  outlets :  many  small  brooks  enter  from 
the  shores  but  the  outlet  is  an  important  and  rapid  stream, 
and  the  wide  surface  is  exposed  to  evaporation;  yet,  with 
such  apparent  lack  of  supply,  its  banks  are  always  full,  forc- 
ing the  conclusion  that  its  volume  is  supplied  largely  by  invis- 
ible springs  of  great  number  and  force  fed  by  the  surrounding 
mountains. 

The  Indian  tribes  who  gave  to  the  lake  its  musical  name, 
found  in  its  waters  and  on  its  shores  inexhaustible  supplies 
for  their  rude  subsistence.    Their  frail  canoes  were  thick 
upon  its  waters  long  before  the  artist  sketched  its  outlines; 
their  ahquedaukenSy  or  **  fish-weirs,"  furnished  supply  of  food 
without  limit,  and  the  fertile  shores  provided  the  growth  of 
corn.    Old  inhabitants  tell  of  a  tree  once  standing  near  at 
hand,  on  which  was  carved  the  legends  of  the  Ossipee  tribe  in 
quaint  Indian  characters.    Fishing  in  the  waters  of  the  lakej 
rarely  fails  to  be  amply  rewarded.    The  trout  in  dtjep  waters, 
and  pickerel  in  shallow  places  among  the  reeds  and  Ulit^s  are] 
the  most  sought.    The  cusk,  perch,  and  toothsome  but  inele- 
gant and  unpopular  **pout,"  are  also  easily  taken  in  abund-i 
ance. 

The  loveliness  which  invests  with  **  charms  artistic  and  in- 
finite" the  cluster  of  bays  which  combine  in  the  lake  proper,! 
is  not  easily  described  by  words  or  transmitted  by  brush  orl 
pencil.  The  combination  of  summits,  slopes  and  forests,! 
green  lines  of  shore  winding  in  charming  curves  of  symmet- 
rical beauty,  and  sometimes,  not  often,  the  whole  blendingl 
system  of  hills,  forests,  shores  and  islands  reproduced  in  tlie| 
still  waters — a  hanging  shadow  picture  of  wondrous  beauty,, 
beyond  the  reach  of  art  to  transcribe,  is  one  to  be  remembeni 
for  a  lifetime. 

Moving  over  the  lake  in  the  steamer,  from  Weirs  to  Ccntrfj 
llarlior,an  ever-changing  succession  of  pictures  is  present«d| 


NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


53 


The  Sandwich  and  Osssipee  mountains  to  the  right,  with 
glimpses  of  old  Chucorua  far  to  the  north,  and  slopes  of  for- 
est, green  hillsides,  and  fertile  pastures,  with  the  nearer  view 
of  Hed  Hill  and  the  surrounding  elevations  fronting  your 
course,  the  twin  peaks  of  Belknap  or  Gunstock  mountains 
behind  you,  and  the  wondrous  beauty  of  island  gemmed  sur- 
face and  constantly  changing  outlines  of  the  grander  shores, 
all  blend  in  a  scene  not  to  be  forgotten.  In  finest  weather 
you  have  for  a  few  moments  a  view  of  the  crown  of  Mount 
V/ashington — the  Mecca  of  the  mountain  tourists — dim,  dis- 
tant and  golden. 

The  name  in  the  Indian  language  signifies  *•  The  smile  of 
the  Great  Spirit,"  or  the  "Pleasant  Water  of  the  High  Place." 
The  testimony  of  Everett,  Starr  King  and  Bartok,  among  our 
own  writers,  and  of  ti*avelers  from  foreign  lands,  to  whom 
the  loveliness  of  other  scenes  is  familiar,  all  unite  in  praise 
of  the  perfection  of  beauty  here  revealed,  "Mid  shadowy  hills 
and  misty  mountains,  all  covered  with  showery  light,  as  with 
a  veil  of  airy  guaze." 

CENTRE  HARBOR 

is  at  the  head  of  the  Central  North-end  Bay.  Here  the  vis- 
itor may  tarry  and  take  luxurious  ease  and  perfect  rest  at  the 
commodious  hotels,  row,  or  sail  upon  the  Lake  in  bo.Hts  to  be 
had  for  the  purpose,  watch  the  play  of  the  shadows  upon  the 
miri'or  of  waters  and  the  many  hills,  or  make  the  **  not  to  be 
omitted"  excursion  to  Red  Hill,  or  the  drive  of  four  miles 
"  around  the  riLg."  There  is  an  elevation  about  a  mile  from 
the  hotels  which  affords  a  fine  outlook.  Excellent  teams  are 
furnished  for  the  attractive  drives  hereabout,  and  private 
teams  are  \/ell  cared  for. 

At  the  Senter  House,  J.  L.  Huntress,  proprietor,  first 
class  fare,  attendance  and  rooms  will  be  found.  The  loca- 
tion is  near  the  shore  of  the  Lake ;  the  grounds  are  ample, 
and  piazzas  broad  and  inviting  to  cozy  and  luxurious  case. 
All  but  chronic  grumblers  can  here  be  entertained  with  all 
needful  comforts  and  conveniences. 


I  "I 


ipp 


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III 


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At  the 

rooms  ar 
will  find 
oitlior  a 
every  thl 
fiimilios  I 
Oceasic 
aoro.ss  tin 
Kranoonii 
in  (liftbrei 
visitod,  3i 
kt'o. 


distant  fr 
should  be 
is  had  eqi 
cinity.  I 
with  tbo 
Winnipisj 
rounded  s 


NORTHERN    PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


65 


MouLTON  House. 

At  the  MouLTON  House,  S.  F.  Emeuy,  proprietor,  good 
rooms  and  good  cheer  await  you  at  all  times,  and  patrons 
will  find  all  the  needful  provisions  for  making  comfortable 
oither  a  prolonged  or  temporary  stay,  including  teams  and 
every  thing  needful  for  the  man  of  leisure,  the  sportsman,  or 
fMn)ilios  and  parties  seeking  rest  or  pleasure. 

Occasionally  an  independent  tourist  strikes  from  this  point 
across  the  country,  by  neglected  by-roads,  in  the  direction  of 
Franconia,  and  finds  rare  views  to  compensate  f(^r  his  travel 
in  (lifterent  stages  of  the  journey.  Squam  Lake  should  be 
visited,  3^  miles  from  the  village — a  miniature  Winnipisau- 
ki'o. 

RED  HILL, 

distant  from  Centre  Harbor  some  five  miles  to  the  summit, 
should  be  visited.  From  this  elevation  (of  2500  feet,)  a  -'iew 
is  had  equalled  in  btMvuty  by  none  other  in  tiiis  immeiliate  vi- 
cinity. The  wide  reach  of  tluit  cluster  of  silver  bays,  which, 
with  the  lake  proper,  give  unrivalled  variety  and  beauty  to 
Winnipisaukee,  lying  like-  a  mirror  in  its  framework  of 
rounded  swelling  hills,  pre-eminent  iu  placid  beauty,  is  here 


ft 


I      .! 


Ml:' 


56 


NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


spread  beneath  the  eye.  Stair  King  .beautifully  says  of  the 
lake  view  from  this  summit :  '*  Here  is  the  place  to  study  its 
borders,  to  admire  the  fleet  of  islands  that  ride  at  anchor  upon 
its  bosom,  from  the  little  shallops  to  the  grand  three-deckers, 
and  to  ei\joy  the  exquisite  lines  by  which' its  bays  are  enfold- 
ed, and  in  which  its  coves  retreat,  and  with  which  its  low 
capes  cut  the  azure  and  hang  over  it  in  emerald  fringe/' 
The  hill  takes  its  name  from  a  shrub  covering  its  sides,  the 
leaves  changing  to  brilliant  red  in  the  fading  autumn.  The 
splendor  of  a  sunrise  view  from  this  elevation,  on  a  summer 
morning,  is  said  to  be  beautiful  beyond  description. 

The  route  from  Center  Harbor  to  North  Conway  and  the 
Gkn  House  is  by  stage  line,  R.  A.  R.  Benson,  proprietor, 
running  along  the  base  of  Red  Hill,  through  Moultonborougli, 
the  village  of  Sandwich,  Sandwich  Notch,  Tam worth  and 
Ossipee,  to  the  Station  on  Great  Falls  and  Conway  branch  of 
Eastern  R.  R.  The  distance  from  Centre  Harbor  to  North 
Conway  is  about  32  miles,  one  half  by  stage  line.  The  Beur- 
eamp  River  Hotel,  at  West  Ossipee,  (formerly  Banks  House,) 
J.  L.  Plummek,  proprietor,  is  a  favorite  resort  for  anglers, 
hunters  and  lovers  of  the  picturesque.  Excursions  from  tliis 
point  to  Ossipee  and  Chucorua  Lake  are  frequently  taken :  it 
is  also  a  favorite  point  from!  which  to  view  the  ragged  spurs 
of  Chucorua. 

This  stage  route,  though  somewhat  rugged,  gives  a  gi-and 
panoramic  view  of  tlie  mountains  at  that  distance,  which 
lends  enchantment  to  their  bold  outlines.  There  are  occa- 
sional sharp  and  tiresome  hills  on  the  route.  Ossipee  Moun- 
tain will  haunt  you  during  the  drive.  Passaconoway  and 
Whiteface  are  lofty  peaks,  4,200  and  4,100  ft.,  elevation,  re- 
spectively. 

The  Sandwich  range  of  mountains  is  to  the  west  and 
noi*th,  terminating  in  the  peaks  of  Chucorua,  with  its  mas- 
sive symmetrical  and  precipitous  ledges,  3,400  feet  in  heigiil, 
desolate  with  the  legendary  curse  of  the  dying  chief  whose 
name  it  bears. 

Of  North  Conway,  with  its  secluded  charms  set  about  with 
circling  m^esty  of  distant  mountains,  we  will  give  a  full  ac- 


NORTHERN   PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


57 


count  in  a  succoeding  chapter.  The  other  most  important 
and  picturesque  vilhige  on  the  shore  of  Winnipisaukee  is 

WOLFEBOROUGII, 

on  the  eastern  shore  of  the  Lake — settled  some  five  years 
iMifore  the  Revolution,  also  reached  by  l)oat  from  Centre  Har- 
bor and  Weirs.  Around  this  romantic  village,  located  on 
ridges  of  land  affording  fine  views,  are  many  pleasant  drives. 
Chief  among  the  attractions  is  the  ascent  of  Copple  Crown 
Mountain,  (2,100  feet  elevation,)  about  five  miles  distant  from 
the  hotels.  The  ascent  is  not  ditlicult,  the  carriage  road 
reaching  within  a  mile  of  the  summit.  The  view  takes  in 
ntjarly  the  whole  extent  of  the  Lake,  the  ragged  spurs  of 
Chncorua,  the  massive  Ossipee,  and  overtopping  dome  of 
Mount  Washington ;  and,  across  the  Lake,  M'ts.  Belknap 
and  Gunstock. 

Sometimes,  in  the  far  distance,  the  blue  ocean  can  be  seen, 
and  the  wide  landscape  is  dotted  with  more  than  a  score  of 
ponds  of  various  dimensions.  There  is  also  a  favorite  view 
to  be  had  from  the  lesser  elevation  of  "Tumble-Down-Dick." 
Smithes  Pond  is  u  place  of  resort  for  sportsmen  and  others ; 
and  moonlight  excursions  on  Lake  Winnipisaukee  from  this 
point  are  often  made  to  the  lasting  pleasure  of  all.  A  poetic 
writer  has  described  the  waters  as  lying  in  the  soft  moon- 
light, "burnished  into  liquid  acres  of  a  faint  and  golden 
splendor."  Wolfeborough  has  direct  railroad  communication 
with  Boston  and  the  east,  and  with  Conway  by  the  Wolf- 
borough  branch  of  the  Great  Falls  and  Conway  line,  while 
the  daily  boat  trips  to  Weirs,  on  the  Concord  and  Montreal 
line,  and  to  Alton  Bay,  give  unusual  facilities  for  visitors  to 
choose  among  rival  routes. 

THE  WOLFEBOROUGH    PAVILION 

is  a  fine  and  commodious  hotel,  E.  Stanton,  Esq.,  proprie- 
tor, with  all  the  requisites  of  a  first  class  inn,  and  a  fine  liv- 
ery for  the  charming  drives  hereabout.  The  house  is  located 
in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  landing,  with  facilities  for 
boating  and  all  desirable  rural  pleasures. 


. 


58 


NORTHERN   PLEASURE   TRAVEL. 


THE  OLENDEN  HOUSE, 

J.  L.  Peavey,  proprietor,  is  attractive  in  its  exterior  and 
stylo,  new,  airy  anil  pleasant,  on  the  shore  of  the  Lake  near 
the  station  of  the  Eastern  Railway — a  desirable  place  for 
recreation  or  rest.  Livery  stables  connected,  and  boats  may 
be  had  for  Lake  excursions.  Billiard  rooms — house  lighted 
throughout  with  gas — electric  bell  arrangement,  and  lively 
and  efficient  management.  '  • 

THE  BELVUE  HOUSE, 

Daniel  IIoun,  proprietor.  The  grounds  are  beautifully  lo- 
cated in  the  most  attractive  spot  on  tlie  shore  of  tlie  Lake,  a 
few  rods  distant  from  the  landing  and  railroad  station.  The 
proprietor  is  well  known,  and  second  to  none  in  his  endeav- 
ors to  please  and  entertain  his  guests.  Connected  with  the 
house  are  boarding  and  livery  stable,  laundry,  and  bathing, 
and  a  large  supply  of  boats  for  rowing  and  sailing,  at  moder- 
ate charges.  The  added  pleasure  of  yatching  can  be  enjoyed 
by  the  patrons  of  this  house  the  coming  summer :  a  fine  new 
yacht  having  been  launched  the  present  sesison. 

The  sail  by  boat  to  the  southern  portion  of  the  I^ake  leads 
you  into  the  winding  and  hill  shadowed  inlet  of 

ALTON  BAY, 

and  brings  you  to  the  village  of  the  same  name  at  the  foot  of 
Merry-meeting  Bay,  at  tlie  lower  end  of  the  Lake.  This  is 
the  point  of  railroad  communication  with  Boston  and  the  East, 
via  the  Dover  and  Winnipisaukee  and  Boston  and  Maine 
railroads.  Connecting  with  trains  over  these  roads,  tiie  new, 
staunch  and  commodious  steamer,  **  Mount  Washington," 
Capt.  Wiggin,  plies  to  Wolfeborough  and  Centre  Harbor, 
through  the  entire  length  of  the  Lake  proper.  This  place 
has  become  noted  for  the  immense  gatherings  of  Adventists 
and  Spiritualists  of  New  England  in  yearly  camp-meetings, 
which  are  attended  by  thousands,  and  for  whose  accommoda- 
tion extra  trains  and  boat  trips  are  run.  Drives  from  this 
point  to  Mount  Belknap,  ten  miles,  to  Sharpens  Hill,  and  fish- 


^TW 


NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


59 


ing  excursions  to  Ix)iigee  Pond,  six  miles,  will  amply  rowan! 
tiio  taking.  The  outlook  from  the  summit  of  Mount  Mi\jor 
and  Prospect  Hill  commands  fine  views.  This  point  was  a 
favorite  resort  of  the  Indians,  and  camping-place  for  the  }>i- 
onvar  soldiery  during  tlie  French  and  Indian  wars. 


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CHAPTER  IV. 


NORTHWARD  FROM  THE  LAKE. 


But  while  we  have  digressed  and  become  oblivious  to  all  else 
in  the  quiet  loveliness  of  the  Lake,  the  larger  part  of  the 
company  have  kept  steadily  onward  by  rail,  along  the  west- 
ern shore  of  Northwest  Cove,  in.  sight  of  its  cool,  sparkling 
waters,  through 

MEREDITH  VILLAGE. 

This  fine  village  has  become  a  place  of  resort  for  those 
seeking  a  quiet  and  attractive  summer  retreat. 


The  Elm  House, 
G.  M.  BuKLEiEGH,  proprietor,  is  a  good  hotel,  and  the  village 


NORTHERN    PLEASURE   TRAVEL. 


61 


a  place  desirable  for  quiet  residence.  A  fine  forest  lies  In  the 
immediate  vicinity  to  the  rear  of  the  house.  The  location 
is  elevated,  commanding  extensive  views.  There  are  thirty 
large  and  airy  rooms ;  pure  breezes  from  the  lake  and  hills ; 
good  stables  connected,  and  every  thing  new  and  comfortable. 
The  Railroad  now^'skirts  the  shores  of  Lake  Wukawan, 
and  brings  you  to  the  thriving  village  at 

ASHLAND  STATION, 

important  for  the  extensive  production  of  paper,  leather  and 
straw-board,  woolen  goods  and  hosiery.  This  village  is  in 
the  old  town  of  Holderness,  which  was  settled  by  its  founders 
with  high  hopes  of  making  it  one  of  the  important  towns  of 
the  colony. 

The  next  station,  after  passing  Bridgewater,  is  in  the  fair 
valley  of  the  Pemigewasset  (place  of  crooked  pines) — the 
charming  village  of 

PLYMOUTH, 
lifly-one  miles  from  Concord,  and  one  hundred  and  twenty- 
four  from  Boston.  This  is  the  dining  station  for  the  morning 
trains  from  Boston,  and  the  night  station  for  the  later  trains, 
whicli  continue  north  from  this  point  in  the  morning.  You 
step  from  the  train  directly  upon  the  threshold  of  the  famed 

PEMIGEWASSET  HOUSE, 

in  the  lower  stories  of  which  are  the  rooms  of  the  passenger 
station.  C.  M.  Mouse,  Esq.  is  the  gentlemanly  manager. 
Ascending  the  broad  stjiircase,  if  it  be  in  the  season  of  pleas- 
ure travel,  you  will  be  saluted  with  music  from  a  fine  quad- 
rille band;  and,  entering  one  of  the  finest  dining  halls  in 
New  England,  you  find  that  plenty  reigns  at  this  hospitable 
hoard.  Scrupulous  neatness,  excellent  cookery,  and  quiet, 
lady-like  attendance,  the  purest  of  water  and  the  freshest  of 
viands  are  the  features  of  this  hotel. 

This  favorite  house  was  erected  in  1863,  and  is  one  of  the 
best,  in  design  and  management,  in  the  State.  The  building 
h;i9  a  frontage  of  230  feet,  is  four  stories  in  height,  with  a  wide 
|)n>jecting  wing.  Tiiere  are  150  sleeping-rooms,  largn,  airy, 
an. I  well  furnisiied  with  bathing  facilities.    Suites  of  room* 


n 


^^ 


NOUTIIEKN   PLEASURE   TRAVEL. 


63 


can  be  had  for  families.  Tlie  parlor  is  spacious,  with  eh^gant 
furnishing,  anil  a  fine  frontage  to  the  south.  The  building  is 
crowned  with  an  observatorj',  from  which  you  have  a  wide 
outlook  over  the  surrounding  country.  Good  teams  may  l)e 
had  at  the  first  class  livery  stable  near  at  hand,  with  skillful 
drivers  familiar  with  surrounding  scenery.  The  public 
rooms  and  passage-ways  are  lighted  with  gas. 

Pleasant  drives,  in  the  vicinity  of  Plymouth,  are  numerous 
to  points  of  interest  within  reasonable  distance,  viz.  around 
Smith's  bridge,  6  miles ;  to  Livermore  Falls,  2  miles ;  Plym- 
outh Mountain,  10 miles;  Loon  Pond,  5  miles;  Squam  Lake, 
6  miles;   Centre  Harbor,  12  miles. 

Prospect  Hill,  or  Mount  Prospect,  in  Iloldcrness,  should  be 
visited  by  all  who  tarry  at  this  place.  The  distance  is  about 
four  miles  from  the  Hotel — the  ascent  (not  difficult,)  the  car- 
riage-way leading  nearly  to  the  summit — and  the  view 
I'nmi  the  summit  (2,968  feet  elevation)  takes  in  the  wide 
reaches  of  valley,  lake,  stream  and  mountain,  with  the  vil- 
lages, farms  and  intervales  that  sleep  in  the  fair  valley  of  the 
Pemigewasset.and  Baker's  River;  while,  far  to  the  north,  the 
great  ranges  of  the  White  and  Franconia  Mountains  thrust 
liieir  ragged  peaks  and  swelling  masses  upon  the  liorizon ; 
tlie  views  of  Mount  Lafayette  and  Cannon  Mountain  are  par- 
ticularly gi'and  from  this  summit,  and  Chucorua,  Gunstock, 
Ik'lknap  Mountains,  Monadnock  and  Kearsage  greet  the  vis- 
ion as  the  eye  sweeps  the  circuit  from  the  east  to  tlie  west, 
and  to  the  northwest  !Moosehillock  swells  nobly  into  view ; 
Wiikavvan,  Squam  and  Winnipesaukee  Lakes  lie  in  their  (jui- 
et  and  silvery  beauty  in  the  unrivalled  landscape,  which  in- 
cludes some  portion  of  nearly  every  county  in  the  State. 

'i  o  make  this  trip  you  will  necessarily  be  absent  from  the 
hotel  only  about  four  hours.  The  road  is  safe  and  firm,  af- 
fording a  continual  change  of  view  as  the  ascent  is  maile. 

Livermore  Falls,  on  the  Pemigewasset  River  about  two 
miles  northerly  from  the  village,  will  not  fail  to  prove  an  ob- 
ject of  interest.  The  view  is  from  the  bridge  some  sixty  feet 
above  the  fall :  there  are  indications  of  volcanic  disturbance's 
in  the  rocky  bed.      For  a  limited  view,  if  you  have  not  time 


w 


64 


NORTHERN   PLEASURE   TRAVEL. 


ti  ■-  1 


•mt 

IP 


ifii 


■m»      I 


or  inclination  for  a  more  extensive  one,  that  from  Walker's 
Hill,  or  South  Mountain  is  pleasing  to  those  unfamiliar  with 
grander  prospects. 

If  a  day  or  two  is  spent  in  Plymouth  at  this  favorite  Hotel, 
it  is  quite  likely  on  your  return,  the  coming  year,  your  stay 
will  be  one  of  weeks.  There  is  wholesome  stimulus  in  the 
mountain  air,  and  purity  in  the  waters,  activity  and  bustle  at 
the  Hotel  and  railway  station,  (three  trains  each  day,  to  and 
from  Boston,)  from  which  a  step,  almost,  will  take  you  to 
undisturbed  quiet. 

Before  leaving  Plymouth  you  will  pay  a  visit  to  the  small 
four-roofed  building,  now  used  as  a  wheelwright  shop,  in 
which  Daniel  Webster  made  his  debut  as  a  practising  attor- 
ney. The  old  building  is  preserved  in  its  ancient  condition, 
and  is  looked  upon  with  great  interest  by  strangers  and  ad- 
mirers of  the  groat  statesman. 

The   popular  boarding-house  near  the  station,  of  which 


Hull's  Boarding  House. 


■^^"^ 


w 


NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


65 


W.  G.  Hull  is  proprietor,  is  a  cheerful  and  convenient  home 
for  those  who  seek  quiet  for  a  time.  It  is  finely  located  upon 
the  hill-side. 

PEMIGEWASSET  VALLEY  STAGE  ROUTE. 

The  route  from  Plymouth  to  the  Profile  and  Flumb  IIooaES  and  tho  Praiiconia 
Hills,  25  miles  to  tho  Flume  Ilouao  and  30  miles  to  the  Profile  Houses,  througii 
tho  Peiuigewasset  valley  ia  acknowledged  to  be  one  of  the  finest  rides  iu  the 
wholo  niouutain  district.  The  way  leads  up  this  fair  valley  through  the  towns 
of  Campton,  Ttiornton,  Woodstock,  and  Lincoln.  The  Camptun  iutervalua. 
through  which  the  river  winds  and  turns  as  if  reluctantly  leaving  the  peaceful 
retreat— the  graceful  sweeps  of  the  great  elms,  the  rich  beauty  of  the  views, 
whicli  open  with  every  mileu  of  progress,  have  made  this  mountain  town  the 
fuTurite  resort  nf  artists  seeking  the  picturesque  in  landscape,  and  perfection  iu 
8hiiile  and  outline. 

On  tlie  way  the  road  is  somewhat  rugged,  but  the  fine  views,  the  gradual 
BNVcliing  and  towering  up  of  the  great  hills  liS  yuu  approach  their  buse,  and  the 
lostoning  of  t)ie  streams  as  you  near  their  source,  the  entrance  into  the  imniedi- 
Ate  presence  of  the  solemn  and  majestic  mountains  in  the  evening  twilight,  tho 
wouders  of  Franconia  Notch,  and  tho  comforts  provided  at  the  end  will  all  linger 
in  luoiuory  long  after  the  Journey  hai  become  a  thing  of  the  past,  and  the  land- 
Hcupes 

"  Plaited  with  valleys,  and  embossed  with  hills, 
Enchased  with  silver  streams,  and  fringed  with  woods," 

if  seen  in  favorable  lights,  will  be  living  pictures  fading  only  with  memory.  Of 
the  iittriictions  and  healthfulness  of  Oampton  and  the  town^  beyond  lying  in  this 
picturesque  valley,  among  the  great  mountains  and  near  to  the  wonders  of 
Franconia,  too  much  cannot  be  said  in  praise.  A  glance  at  the  list  of  boarding- 
house!)  at  the  close  of  this  book,  will  show  the  demand  for  accommodations  along 
this  charming  route.  The  number  of  temporary  residents  in  these  quiet  homes, 
each  season,  is  constantly  increasing,  and  the  time  of  their  sojourn  lengthens 
every  year.  The  charms  of  this  valley  are  appreciated  by  Artists  and  lovers  of 
the  picturesque  who  resort  here  every  year  to  transcribe  with  pencil  or  brush  the 
.  beauty  of  landscapes  so  far  us  art  may  imitate  nature.  The  valleys  lie  in  lovely 
repose  with  the  mountain  land  encircling  them  about. 

But  we  have  digressed ;  and,  led  away  by  the  charms  of 
[the  Lake,  and  the  fine  stage-route,  have  partially  forgotten 
[the  railway  line :  but  many  will  not  be  tempted,  even  by  the 
Icliarms  of  the  sail  upon  the  Lake,  but  will  continue  by  rail- 
|way  northward  from  Plymouth,  following  for  twenty  miles 
[the  valley  of  Baker's  River  to  the  Connecticut.  Passing 
iiiincy's  station,   Rumney,  West  Rumney  and  Went  worth 


66 


NORTHERN   PLEABURt:  TRAVEL. 


Station,  Rattlesnake  Mountain,  Carr's  Mountain  and  other 
elevations  of  consitlerablo  boldness  are  seen  before  reachlnij 
Wentworth. 

WARREN. 

Moosilauk  Mountain,  distant  some  five  miles  to  the  b;iso, 
is  visited  by  all  admirers  of  mountain  scenery.  The  siscent 
is  by  a  new  turnpike  recently  opened  to  the  summit,  some 
four  miles.  There  are  good  hotel  accommodations  at  the 
summit  for  those  who  remain. 

From  this  isolated  crest  (4,636  feet  altitude,)  high  above  all 
surrounding  peaks,  is  one  of  the  grantlest  and  most  extensive 
views  in  New  England :  the  eye  falls  directly  upon  the  White 
and  Franconia  mountain  ranges.  Eastward  the  great  C(in- 
tral  dome  of  Washington,  flanked  by  the  noble  ranges  of  the 
mighty  hills ;  the  scarred  sides  of  Lafayette,  the  walls  of  the 
Notch  and  the  Pemigewasset  Mountains.  Carrigan  and  Pe- 
quaket  arc  prominent  peaks,  the  Uncanoonucks,  Monad- 
nocks  and  Kearsarge  bound  the  vision  as  you  sweep  around 
from  south  to  west.  The  vast  extent  of  view  from  this  liii^li 
crest  includes  nearly  all  of  eastern  and  southern  New  ILuiip- 
shire,  the  mountains  in  the  direction  of  Nortli  Conway  and 
glimpses  of  distant  Maine,  while,  far  away  to  the  northwest, 
the  view  extends  into  the  Canadas.  The  first  experience  of 
wintering  upon  mountain  summits  in  this  latitude  was  on 
this  summit  in  1869,  by  Prof.  Huntington  and  others.  The 
Moosilauk  House  is  a  well-kept  Hotel  with  an  extensive  liv- 
ery for  the  accommodation  of  visitors. 

From  WaiTcn  the  course  of  the  railroad  is  northward, 
passing  "  Owl's  Head"  lying  off  to  the  right,  and  the  villages 
of  Haverhill  and  North  Haverhill  upon  the  left.  The  elevat- 
ed line  of  the  road  at  this  place  overlooks  the  wide  valley! 
and  the  great  bend  or  "  Ox-bow"  in  the  Connecticut,  wit! 
the  pleasant  villages  on  either  side  of  the  river,  in(;luding  th 
fine  towns  of  Bradford  and  Newbury  on  the  Vermont  side 
with  mountains  in  the  back-ground.  The  express  train  i 
the  pleasure  season  does  not  cross  to  Wells  River,  but  sweep] 
to  the  right  by  the  "  cut-oft,"  leaving  the  thriving  and  pop 


Tin's  pl^ 

Boston,  at 

^'•om  liostl 

tain  railw^ 

niilos).    II 

Plements, 
other  prod, 
oank,  good 
'e^'prisin^ 
Jt^withnec-J 


NORTHERN  PLKASURE  TRAVEL. 


67 


loiis  village  of  Woodsville,  a  railroad  town  of  recent  but  vig- 
orous growth,  to  the  left. 

Tlio  mail  train,  following  the  express,  stops  at  all  stations, 
and  all  trains,  excepting  fjist  through  express,  connect  at 
Wells  River,  forming  junction  with  the  Passumpsic  River 
Railroad  for  Lakes  Willoughby  and  Memphremagog.  The 
Wells  River  and  Montpelier  Railroad,  now  completed,  takes 
passengers  from  this  point  to  Montpelier,  Mounts  Mansfield 
!ind  Camel's  Hump,  Burlington  (where  boat  or  cars  may  bo 
takcm  for  Saratoga),  Lake  Champlain,  Lake  George,  or  for 
St.  Albans  and  Ogdensburg. 

NOTHWARD  TO  LITTLETON. 

Re-crossing  the  Connecticuf  by  the  same  bridge  and  back 
through  Woodsville,  the  line  of  road  from  this  point — the 
White  Mountain  Division — passes  along  the  valley  of  the 
Wild  Ammonusuc  River,  which,  from  its  sources  on  the 
slopes  of  the  great  mountains,  abounds  in  rapids  and  fall^, 
and  is  the  most  variable  and  wild  of  the  New  England 
streams,  descending  five  thousand  feet  from  its  source  to  its 
union  with  the  Connecticut. 

Passing  through  Bath,  a  sleepy  village,  and  Lisbon — a  pret- 
ty and  enterprising  town,  the  people  of  which  are  determined 
to  enrich  themselves  and  the  country,  either  by  developing 
their  gold  mines,  or  disseminating  their  patent  fertilizers,  and 
North  Lisbon,  you  reach  the  important  town  of 

LITTLETON. 

This  place  is  reached  by  the  morning  express  train  from 
Boston,  at  3.30  p.  M.  It  is  113  miles  from  Concord,  and  187 
from  Boston,  and  is  one  of  the  most  important  of  the  moun- 
tain railway  stations,  nearest  to  the  Profile  House  (distant  11 
miles).  Rough  and  manufactured  lumber,  agricultural  im- 
plements, starch  and  woolen  goods  are  here  made,  with  many 
I  otlier  productions.  There  is  a  bank  of  discount  and  savings 
I  bank,  good  hotel  and  boarding  accommodations,  a  live,  en- 
terprising people,  quiet  and  seclusion  for  those  who  choose 
it,  with  near  railroad  facilities.    An  easy  day's  ride  will  carry 


66t 


NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


-  I 


one  to  any  of  the  points  of  interest  in  the  mountains,  and  re- 
turn. Extensive  views  of  the  mountains  can  be  had  from 
the  elevations  in  the  immediate  vicinity. 

Thayer's  Hotel  is  a  well  managed  house  which  has  been 
long  kept  by  the  present  proprietor.  The  coach  will  be  found 
waiting  with  others  at  the  depot.  Superior  boarding  accom- 
modations at  the  Oak  Hill  and  other  boarding  houses. 

During  your  stay  at  this  place,  a  visit  should  be  made  to 
the  photographic  rooms  of  the  Kilburn  Brothers.  These  ar- 
tists have  the  finest  collection  of  stereoscopic  views  of  moun- 
tain scenery  and  picturesque  localities  to  be  found  in  New 
JIngland.  They  are  not  excelled  as  artists,  nor  equalled  in 
their  speciality  of  view-taking  in  the  open  air,  being  them- 
selves enthusiastic  mountaineers.  Few  visitors  leave  the 
mountains  without  a  collection  of  their  fine  views  of  notable 
localities  and  scenes,  as  souvenirs  of  their  journey. 

Stages  leave  for  the  Franconia  Hills  immediately  on  ar- 
rival of  the  trains,  and,  if  you  withstand  the  temptation  to 
tarry  here  for  a  time,  or  for  the  night,  you  can  proceed  direct- 
ly on  your  way  to  the  Profile  House. 

You  should  by  no  means  neglect  to  take  the  drive 

FROM  LITTLETON  TO  FRANCONIA  NOTCH,  WHITE 

MOUNTAINS, 

a  stage  i*oute  of  eleven  miles,  by  a  good  road  over  hills  and 
through  valleys,  passing  through  the  long,  straggling  and  pic- 
turesque village  of  Franconia  (the  reputed  cold  spot  of  the 
country  in  winter).  The  views  of  Mts.  Lafayette  and  Can- 
non from  Franconia  village  are  very  fine.  The  approach  to 
the  Notch  by  this  route,  in  the  sombre  stillness  of  the  fading 
day,  when  the  shadows  ascend  slowly  to  the  mountain  tops, 
gilding  their  summits  with  golden  splendor,  and  the  bare  and 
grim' outlines  of  the  range  are  brought  out  in  bold  relief,  is  a 
scene  to  be  remembered. 

Sometime  before  reaching  the  Profile  House  you  pass  the 
farm  belonging  to  the  hotel,  with  the  tasty  and  lavish  display 
of  flowers  about  the  door  and  lawn,  and  beautiful  fresh  sup- 
plies, telling  of  substantial  provision  for  their  numerous  i 


NORTHERN   PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


69 


gnosts;  the  diverging  road  to  Bald  Mountain  is  also  passed. 
Echo  l^ake  lies  just  to  tiie  left  of  the  roadway;  Eagle  Cliff 
towers  into  view  just  beyond,  and,  as  you  near  the  Iiotel,  you 
look  to  the  right  far  up  on  the  rocky  summit  of  Mount  Can- 
non where  the  granite  mass  which  gives  name  to  this  sum- 
mit stands,  an  almost  perfect  imitation  of  a  mounted  gun  of 
heavy  calibre. 

THE  k'ROFILE  HOUSE 

is  now  reached — from  its  location,  surroundings,  and  man- 
agement, one  of  the  most  popular  resorts  in  the  whole  moun- 
tain region.  Echo  Lake,  Eagle  Cliff,  the  Great  Stone  Face, 
and  Profile  Lake  are  all  in  the  immediate  vicinity,  and,  with 
the  general  wildness  of  the  pass  itself,  make  up  a  scene  un- 
equalled, in  many  of  its  features,  elsewhere  in  the  world.  The 
smaller  but  well  kept  Flume  House,  five  miles  below,  has  the 
same  management  and  is  in  near  vicinity  of  the  Flume,  The 
Pool,  Georgianna  Falls  and  other  wonders.  The  Basin  is 
passed  on  the  journey  through  the  pass,  being  by  the  road- 
side. Of  these  natural  wonders  and  the  ascent  of  summits 
from  these  points  see  full  description  in  chapter  on  **  Franco- 
nia  Notch." 
Again  returning  to  the  railway  and  going  ' 

NORTHWARD  FROM  LITTLETON 

you  may  pass  directly  on  and  unite  with  the  Grand  Trunk 
Railway,  at  Northumberland  Junction,  for  Colebrook,  Dix- 
ville  Notch,  Island  Pond  or  the  Canadas,  or  tan*y  as  you  may 
choose  at  either  Whitefield,  Dalton,  Lancaster  or  Guildhall, 
successive  stations  upon  this  line,  hereafter  noticed  in  detail ; 
but,  if  your  destination  is  Bethlehem,  the  Twin  Mountain  or 
Fabyan  Houses,  Mount  Washington  summit  or  the  Crawford 
House  (at  the  Notch)  you  will  take  the  Mt.  Washington 
Branch  Railroad,  diverging  from  the  main  line  above  Little- 
ton at  the  *•  Wing  Station,"  and  pass  directly  on  to  these 
points.    - 

BETHLEHEM, 

on  this  branch,  has  become  the  gi*eat  mountain  healtfi  resort 
of  New  England  in  the  summer  months.    It  is  the  highest 


70 


nort;iern  pleasure  travel. 


open  tal)lo  land  (1,500  ft.  elovation)  avriilablo  for  rosidnnces, 
in  the  Eastt!rn  States;  and  the  pun;  air,  vvid(i  prospcu't, 
pi('tnr(*s(jue  s(!enes  and  surroimdlni^s,  attract  temporary  res- 
dents  from  all  parts  of  the  country.  Tiie  *'  str(!et  "  is  a  loni,' 
line  of  scattered  houses  at  some  distance  from  the  railway 
station,  and  from  this  grand  plateau  and  favorable  distan(;e 
the  outlook  upon  tlie  mountains  is  grand  and  impressive. 
Many  invalids  are  sent  to  this  place  by  a<lvico  of  physicians, 
and  in  its  pure  and  dry  atraosph(u*e,  find  that  ndief  vviiich 
those  who  seek  mild  but  enervating  climates  fail  to  find. 

The  trips  and  drives,  g*"  uncommon  charm,  to  be  iiad  from 
this  village  are  sufficiently  numerous  to  give  great  variety 
and  grandeur  of  scenery.  Among  them  are  the  foUowiui;: 
to  summit  of  Mt.  Agassiz,  2  miles;  Crafts'  Ledge,  1|  miles; 
round  the  Heater,  5  miles;  Kimball  Hill,  6  miles;  Mont- 
gomery Pond,  6  miles;  White  Mountain  Notch,  18  mih's: 
Waumbeck  House,  Jeff'erson  Hill,  18  miles;  The  Flum(%  Ifi 
miles ;  Mount  Washington  11.  R.  station,  19  miles.  Good 
teams  are  to  be  had  at  fair  prices. 


M(i 

a  plei 

tlir'  sr 

with  < 

appcn 

;io(r()ni 

sir;ibl( 

in  th(; 

can  b( 

•int,  ui 

will  oj 

most  s: 

will  op 

located 


....  m 

'§.' ,  III 


mM 


w 


NORTIIRRX    PLEASURE   TRAVEL. 


71 


Mount  Aoassiz  House,  C.  E.  Bunker,  Proprietor,  is 
H  pleusjint  lionso  for  tho  tourist,  sportsm.in  or  invalid,  also 
llic  small  new  li()US(!of  W.  (}.  Hunker  will  he  found  attractive, 
witli  others  of  equal  merit.  See  list  of  Boardinj;  Houses  in 
jippcndix.  Th(!  PuosrECT  House,  kept  by  Geo  W.  Phillips^ 
accommodates  a  hundred  guests  and  will  be  found  a  de- 
sirablci  home  for  temporary  or  permanent  resid(!nts,  located 
in  tin;  forest,  oft' the  roadway,  giving  all  the  retirement  which 
C!in  be'  desired.  Maple  W(kmI  Cottage,  attractive  and  pleas- 
ant, under  the  management  of  I.  E.  Abbott.  J.  K.  Barrett 
will  open  a  new  house,  with  new  furniture,  in  one  of  tho 
most  sightly  and  attractive  locations.  Also,  Elisha  ^'  <'eet 
will  open  a  new  house  in  June.  The  house  will  be  centr.tlly 
located,  with  new  and  complete  outfit. 

The  Sinclair  House,  J.  A.  Durgin,  ' Propri  .or,  is  a 
hotel  of  good  repute,  1  irge,  commodious  and  complete  in  its 
provision  for  the  comfort  of  patrons. 

From  Bethi  hem  tho  Wing  Railway  passes  on  to  Twin 
Mountain  House  (the  former  terminus,)  a  large  and  commod- 
ious hotel  near  the  Twin  Mountains  in  Carrol  township  and 
farther  on  to  the  present  terminus  at  the 


Fabyan  House. 


|Wr 


72 


NORTHERN   PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


i-t 


kA' 


!''■ 


At  this  terminal  station,  the  fine,  commodious  and  every- 
way first  class  Fabyan  Hot  se  affords  all  needed  or  desirable 
comforts  and  luxuries  to  its  patrons.  It  is  located  at  tlio 
junction  of  the  Notch  Road  and  tlie  Mountain  Turnpike,  about 
six  miles  from  the  station  of  the  Mount  Washington  Rail- 
way, known  as  Ammonoosuc  Station,  at  foot  of  Mt.  Washing- 
ton. Only  five  miles  of  staging  from  this  point  to  the  Craw- 
ford House,  at  the  Gates  of  the  Notch. 

The  Giant's  Grave,  formerly  a  place  of  note  from  its  pecu- 
liarity, and  for  the  fine  view  therefrom,  fell  within  tiie 
grounds  of  this  fine  hotel  and  has  been  sacrilegiously  leveled. 
LiNDSEY  &  French  are  the  efficient  managers.  Fabyan  House 
line  of  Concord  coaches  runs  in  connection  with  all  trains  on 
the  mountain  railway,  also  to  connect  with  trains  on  Port- 
land and  Ogdensburg  R.  R.,  at  Hart's  Location  near  the  old 
Crawford  House,  taking  passengers  through  the  White  Moun- 
tain Notch.  The  accommodations  at  this  Hotel  are  for  450 
guests.  The  outlook  from  its  piazzas  is  directly  upon  the 
slope  of  Mount  Washington,  and  the  ascending  and  descend- 
ing trains  over  the  mountain  railway.  Fine  Band  music 
serves  to  drive  away  monotony  and  all  the  essentials  of  a, 
pleasure  resort  are  here  found.  (See  further  notice  in  fol- 
lowing pages.) 

Of  the  Mountain  Railway,  White  Mountain  Notch,  and 
other  attractions  of  this  region  you  will  be  fully  informed  in 
the  succeeding  chapter  specially  treating  of  each. 

Once  again  returning  from  our  digression,  and  resuming 
travel  by  the  regular  railway  route,  we  reach 

WHITEFIELD. 

This  is  the  important  lumber  depot  of  this  road.  Those 
genuine  Yankee  lumbermen,  the  Brown  Brothers  and  their 
associates,  have  here  extensive  mills  and  facilities  for  the 
manufacture  of  lumber  on  a  large  scale  and  with  dispatch, 
including  a  forest  railway  of  several  miles  in  length,  with 
ample  rolling  stock,  extending  to  their  great  lumber  tracts 
around  Pondicherry.  These  mills  are  well  worth  a  visit, 
being  among  the  most  complete  in  the  State,  and  should  tlie 


NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


73 


gonial  *'  Doctor,"  whose  brains  and  cash  make  him  the  im- 
portant *'  Co."  of  the  firm,  be  present,  you  will  be  sure  of  a 
welcoma,  and,  though  he  can  be  as  reticent  as  tlie  "  Old  Man 
of  the  Mountain"  it  is  probable  you  will  be  entertained  with 
pleasant  conversation  valuable  in  its  medical  advice,  if  you 
are  in  need  of  such,  in  spiritual  truths,  if  yours  is  a  receptive 
mind,  and  in  hilarious  mirth,  if  you  are  inclined  to  be  merry : 
success  to  him  and  his  enterprising  associates  in  their  exten- 
sive operations.  They  also  have  important  mills  three  miles 
from  Wentworth  Station,  on  the  railroad  below,  and  will 
furnish  all  kinds  of  lumber,  from  the  masts  of  monster  mer- 
chant men  to  the  smallest  merchandise  known  to  the  trade. 

Kimball  hill,  a  mile  and  a  half  from  the  village,  is  a  favor- 
ite point  for  extensive  views,  and  here  the  curious  have  found 
what  appears  to  be  moccasin  tracks  in  the  solid  granite. 
This  town  is  becoming  a  favorite  place  of  resort  for  summer 
boarders.  The  distance  to  the  Fabyan  House  is  17  miles;  to 
the  Waimibeck  House,  8  miles;  to  the  White  Mountain 
Notch,  and  Franconia  Notch,  17  miles  respectively.  At  the 
WiiiTEFiELD  House,  C.  Henry  AimoTT,  Proprietor,  good 
teams  may  be  had,  or  good  fare  if  you  tarry  at  tliis  quiet  vil- 
lage ;  also  several  first  class  boarding  houses  are  located  in 
this  town,  and  the  scenery  is  not  surpassed  at  any  point 
about  the  mountains. 


DALTON 

is  the  next  station,  where  many  leave  for  the  Sumner  House, 
finely  located  on  the  banks  of  the  Connecticut,  one  mihi  dis- 
tant, a  place  of  considerable  resort. 

Lunenburg,  Vt.,  is  one  mile  from  So.  Lancaster  Station. 
Regular  conveyance  to  the  commodious  hotel  and  excellent 
boarding  houses  in  this  mountain  village,  overlooking  the 
Connecticut  valley,  from  the  high  and  healthy  plateau. 


LANCASTER  '         ' 

is  distant  from  Concord  135  miles,  from  Boston  208  miles — 
and  is  the  most  important  town  of  Coos  County,  located 


'W' 


m 


74 


NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


a 


11 


among  the  finest  scenes  outlying  the  mountains,  it  is^  the  des- 
tination of  many  of  our  number.  The  intervales  of  the  Con- 
necticut, at  this  point,  are  not  surpassed  by  any  upon  its  whole 
course,  while  rare  views  are  had  of  the  distant  Franconia 
Mountains,  the  great  White  Mountain  range,  the  Percy  Peaks 
and  Pilot  Range,  and  the  Lunenburg  Hills  in  Vermont.  Here 
the  tourist  in  hio-h  health,  who  has  the  secret  learned 

"To  mix  his  bloorl  with  RUiishino,  and  to  take 
The  winds  into  hia  piilsea," 

can  have  unequalled  facility  for  sporting  and  the  enjoyment 
of  savage  vigor.  It  is  also  a  place  of  resort  for  invalids,  es- 
pecially for  those  troubled  with  asthmatic  and  lung  difficulties 
and  "  hay  fever  " ;  for  such,  relief  is  said  to  come  with  cer- 
tainty in  the  genial  air  of  the  village ;  certainly,  few  lovelier 
spots  could  be  chosen  in  which  to  recuperate  wasted  energies 
and  correct  the  injurious  effects  of  exposure  to  enervating 
influences  of  crowded  cities  or  injurious  climate.  The  win- 
ter views  from  this  point  are  spojjen  of  with  admiration  by 
those  whose  artistic  tastes  are  admitted  to  be  above  contra- 
diction, though  the  chilling  fog-clouds  from  the  mountains 
sometimes  bring  an  arctic  severity  with  their  unwelcome  de- 
scent in  winter. 

Lancaster  was  chartered  in  1763.  **  All  pine  trees  within 
said  township  fit  for  masting  our  Royal  Navy  to  be  carefully 
preserved  for  that  use,  and  none  to  be  cut  or  felled  without 
special  license."  The  gi*ant  was  to  David  Page  and  others, 
covering  23,000  acres.  The  original  settlers  were  from  P(;- 
tersham  and  Rutland,  Mass., and  were  a  hardy  and  self-reliant 
race>.  There  were  no  highways  for  several  years  after  set- 
tlement, and  the  nearest  mills  were  at  Charlestown  and 
Plymouth.  Their  frugal  fare  is  thus  described  by  a  facile 
writer : 

'*  Emmons  Stockwell  kept  a  huge  mortar,  which  held  aboiit 
two  bushels ;  into  this  they  put  their  corn,  beans  and  rye ; 
then  they  pounded  it  with  a  great  wooden  pestle,  as  none  but 
them  could  pound.  With  this  they  mixed  potatoes,  well 
baked  and  peeled,  and  the  vegetables  their  tastes  might  se- 
lect; the  whole  was  baked  together  into  magnificent  7%twip. 


NORTHERN   PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


76 


Soasoned  with  good  appetites,  it  was  found  a  delicious  dish 
by  the  early  inhabitants  of  our  glorious  old  town." 

Ilarrassed  by  Indians,  dispirited  by  failures,  and  cheered 
by  no  bright  future,  the  settlement  was  at  one  time  to  be 
abandoned;  but  one  dauntless  spirit  cluni;  to  the  fair  valley 
•'for  better  or  for  worse,"  and,  by  force  of  heroic  example, 
saved  the  colony,  and  permanently  founded  this  noble  town, 
set  in  the  loveliest  of  valleys,  and  circled  by  distant  peaks 
and  mountains. 

The  tourist  will  travel  far  to  find  a  lovelier  village,  sur- 
rounded with  more  of  the  varied  and  romantic  in  natural 
scenery,  or  of  neatness  and  advantage  in  the  accommodations 
for  pleasant  residence.  The  waters  are  pure  in  their  fresh 
escape  from  the  bosom  of  great  hills;  and  the  summer 
winds  are  cooled  by  contact  with  the  bald  summits  of  the 
mountains. 

A  walk  of  about  a  mile  on  the  Jefferson  road  will  take  those 
unable  to  visit  the  mountains,  to  a  point  giving  a  fine  view  of 
a  portion  of  the  White  Mountain  Range. 

The  visitor  at  this  place  will  find  in  the  elegant  and  com- 
modious 


Lancasteu  House, 


76 


NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


ill 


B.  H.  Corning,  Manager,  as  fine  a  hotel  as  the  mountain  re- 
gion can  boast.  Fish,  game  and  fruits,  fresh  from  the  sur- 
rounding region,  commodious  rooms,  and  liberal  accommo- 
dations in  every  department,  give  assurance  of  personal 
comfort.  Drives  in  the  surrounding  country  and  to  noted 
points  in  the  mountains  from  this  point  will  reveal  unsur- 
passed diversity  and  charm  in  landscape,  while  the  railroad 
connections  are  such  as  to  afford  the  greatest  facility  to  trav- 
elers and  buisness  men.  The  sidewalks  and  crossings  of  the 
village  streets  are  superior  to  those  of  many  larger  towns, 
adding  greatly  to  the  comfort  and  pleasure  of  citizens  and 
visitors, 

This  is  the  shire  town  of  the  highland  county  of  Coos,  and 
here  centres  much  of  the  professional,  mechanical  and  agri- 
cultural business  of  northern  New  Hampshire.  Church- 
going  people  of  every  denomination  can  here  select  their 
favorite  form  of  worship,  including  an  Episcopal  Parish  re- 
cently organized. 

Trains  connect  with  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway,  daily,  for  the 
Canadas,  and  the  eastern  approaches  to  the  mountains  at 
Gorham  and  the  Glen,  and  by  the  Montreal  road  for  the  White 
and  Franconia  Mountains,  the  Mount  Washington  Railway, 
Lake  Winnipesaukee,  Boston,  the  lower  cities  and  New  York. 
Stage  leaves  Lancaster,  on  arrival  of  the  train  from  Boston, 
about  5  o  clock  p.  m.  for  the 

WAUMBEK  HOUSE,  JEFFERSOU  HILLS, 

and  the  other  desirable  boarding  houses  at  Joiferson,  distant 
seven  miles,  and  located  at  the  foot  of  Starr  King  Mountain. 
Speaking  of  the  view  from  these  hills,  Mr.  King  says :  "They 
may,  without  exaggeration,  be  called  the  ultima  thule  of 
grandeur,  in  an  artistic  pilgrimage  among  the  New  Hamp- 
shire mountains."  Here  the  mountains,  marshalled  in  a  vast 
arc  of  circling  summits,  present  a  wide  sweep  of  landscape 
of  a  magnitude  rarely  met  even  in  this,  land  of  bold  and 
startling  prospects.  This  favorite  hotel,  kept  by  Merrill  and 
Plaisted,  is  supplied  with  the  freshest  of  country  products 
from  the  neighboring  pastures  and  streams,  and  the  accom- 
modations are  such  as  must  please  those  who  give  the  agree- 


ym 


'hey 

le  of 

,inp- 

vast 

cape 

and 

and 

ucts 

;om- 

:ree- 


i-* 


■  f 


78 


NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


able  landlords  their  patronage,  while  the  view  from  its  piaz- 
zas is  a  changing  picture  of  majestic  outline,  bathed  in  sun- 
light and  swept  by  moving  shadows  and  changing  scenes, 

"  Where,  through  a  sapphire  sea,  the  sun 
Suils  like  a  guldeu  galleon." 

A  foot-path  leads  to  the  summit  of  Starr  King  Mountain,  and 
one  of  the  finest  summit  views  in  the  whole  mountain  range. 
A  good  livery  stable  accommodates  guests.  The  outlook  is 
upon  the  White,  Franconia,  Green,  Chen*y  and  StaiT  King 
mountains. 

GUILDHALL,  VT., 

at  Northumberland  Falls,  is  one  of  the  pleasantest  of  coun- 
try villages,  located  among  beautiful  scenery  and  command- 
ing extensive  views  of  the  Connecticut  valley.  Th  e  Essex 
House, Hartshorn,  proprietor,  is  a  good  hotel,  attract- 
ive for  families  for  a  summer  residence.  The  drives  here- 
about are  superb.  The  good  boarding  accommodations 
here  found  are  liberally  patronized. 

NORTHUMBERLAND  JUNCTION. 

Unite  here  with  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway.  A  thriving 
settlement  has  sprung  up  at  this  point  since  it  became  im- 
portant as  a  railroad  town.  The  trains  connect  at  this  point 
with  all  trains  over  Grand  Trunk  to  and  from  Lancaster. 

Without  delay  passengers  may  proceed  in  fine  parlor  cars, 
if  desired,  to  the  great  Canadian  cities  over  the  line  of  the 

Grand  Trunk  Railway. 

The  great  improvements  in  progi*ess  on  this  line  by  change 
of  gauge,  renewal  of  rolling  stock,  and  the  substitution  of 
steel  rails,  will  greatly  add  to  the  comfort  of  patrons  and  ac- 
commodate the  increasing  travel  to  Canadian  cities  and 
places  of  attraction.  Many  tourists  leave  the  cars  of  this  line 
at  North  Stratford  ;  here  you  may  find  good  quarters  at 
the  WiLLARD  House,  and  take  stage  from  thence  to  Cole- 
BROOK,  where  at  the  Parson's  House,  E.  F.  Bailey,  proprie- 
tor, conveyance  and  all  needful  help  will  be  furnished  for 


NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


79 


visiting  the  northern  mountain  pass ;  the  stages  connect  with 
every  express  train  on  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 

DIXVILLE  NOTCH 

is  the  most  northern  of  the  gi*eat  natural  wonders  that  crowd 
the  White  Mountain  region.  It  is  a  dreary,  forbidding  and 
desolate  pass,  between  vast  decaying  ledges  and  pillars  of 
rock,  threading  the  narrow  roadway,  which  is  maintained 
with  some  difficulty  at  the  expense  of  the  State. 

It  is  fast  becoming  a  place  of  resort  from  Colebrook,  and 
many  pass  on  through  the  Notch  to  camp  life,  by  the  three  lakes 
at  the  head  waters  of  the  Connecticut,  and  trouting  by  the 
wild  waters  of  the  Magalloway  river.  Within  and  about  the 
Notch  are  mfmy  objects  of  interest.  The  Silver  Cascade  is  a 
wild  waterfall  at  the  northern  outlet  of  the  Notch.  Ladders 
descend  the  rocky  bed  leading  to  the  best  point  for  a  full  view, 
and  seats  are  arranged  for  the  convenience  of  visitors.  The 
Flume  is  a  waterway  well  worth  inspection,  the  bare  walls 
standing  squarely  upright  as  though  hewn  by  the  hand  of  an 
artisan.  The  pulpit  is  a  bold  buttress  of  stone,  more  like  the 
elaborate  pulpit  of  "ye  olden  times  "  than  the  modern  style. 
Here  also  is  a  veritable  **  Old  Man  of  the  Mountain,"  of  di- 
minutive size  when  compared  with  the  grand  **  Profile  "  of 
the  Franconia  range,  but  perfect  in  its  resemblance  to  the  fa- 
cial outline.  These  and  other  points  are  indicated  by  sign- 
boards liberally  scattered  along  the  way  by  the  owner  of  the 
lands.  The  ascent  to  table  Bock  (800  feet  pei*pendicular 
height),  the  highest  pinnacle,  may  now  be  easily  made  by 
rude  steps  cut  to  facilitate  climbing.  The  view  from  this 
dizzy  height  is  one  to  be  sought  and  remembered. 


CHAPTER  V. 


THE  FRANCONIA  RANGE, 
Or  Westerly  Group  op  White  Mountains. 


This  western  range  of  the  White  Mountains  abounds  in 
beautiful  and  enchanting  objects  of  interest,  and  wild  combi- 
nations of  scenery,  surpassing,  perhaps,  any  other  locality. 
Lafayette  is  the  crowning  peak,  being  5,585  feet  above  sea 
level.    The  ascent  is  made  from  the  Flume  House. 

Franconia  Notch  is  a  pass  ^itli  close  and  precipitous 
walls,  of  about  five  miles  in  extent,  between  Mount  Lafay- 
ette and  Mount  Cannon.  The  valley  is  about  half  a  mile  in 
width,  and  is  a  huge  receptacle  of  the  curious,  the  wild,  and 
the  beautiful  in  mountain  scenery.  The  bare  wal  Is  of  Can- 
non Mountain,  on  the  right,  as  you  ride  through  from  the 
Profile  House,  are  grand  in  their  impressive  barrenness  and 
lofty  height. 

the  great  stone  portrait, 

is  the  crowning  feature  of  the  pass.  The  grim  old  "  King  of 
the  Hills,"  ever  looking  out  in  unchanging  mtyesty  on  his 
wild  realm.  This  wonderful  copy  of  the  human  features, 
colossal  in  proportions,  yet  faithful  and  clear  in  its  lines,  is  the 
great  natural  attraction  sought  by  strangers.  The  length  of 
the  face  has  been  ascertained  to  be  not  less  than  eighty  feet. 
It  looks  from  the  southern  face  of  Cannon  or  Profile  Moun- 
tain "  awflil  but  benignant,"  enchaining  the  interest  of  every 
beholder*-the  majestic  feature  of  a  weird  region,  of  which 
the  poet  sings 

"  For  hoary  legends  to  your  wiids  belong, 

And  yours  are  haunts  where  inspiration  broods." 


NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


81 


Echo  Lake,  The  Basin,  The  Pool,  The  Flume,  with  its 
suspended  l^oulder  and  cascades,  and  the  ascent  of  Mount  La- 
fayette are  features  of  the  Franconia  Range  fully  described  in 
succeeding  pages,  and  seen  by  excursions  from  the  Profile  and 
Flume  Houses.  The  facility  with  which  this  pass  may  be 
reached  from  Littleton  or  from  Plymouth.by  stage  route  up  the 
valley,  and  the  varied  beauty  and  attractiveness  of  the  range 
brings  a  yearly  increasing  tide  of  Pilgrims  to  ei\joy  the  wealth 
of  beauty  here  to  be  found. 

The  Profile  House,  at  the  northern  entrance  to  the  Notch, 
and  in  near  vicinity  of  Eagle  Cliflf,  Echo  Lake  and  the  Profile, 
is  the  great  resort  of  travelers  and  tourists,  while  the  smaller 
but  excellently  kept  and  located  Flume  House,  at  the  southern 
entrance  and  near  the  Flume,  the  Pool  and  other  attractions, 
is  a  place  of  much  resort. 

The  Profile  House,  Franconia  Notch,  White 

Mountains, 

has  accommodations  for  five  hundred  guests,  on  the  most 
liberal  and  extensive  scale.  The  ample  grounds,  command- 
ing wide  and  beautiful  views,  are  crowded  during  the  pleasure 
season  with  a  happy  company  gathered  from  all  parts  of  the 
land,  who  find  here  that  cleanliness  and  attention,  with  that 
ample  and  substantial  profusion  of  viands,  which  mountain 
air  and  exercise  make,  more  than  elsewhere,  a  necessity. 

The  parlor  and  dining  hall  are  spacious  and  elegant  (about 
100  by  50  feet  area),  and  are  lighted  with  gas.  The  telegi'aph 
runs  to  this  point,  and  the  man  of  business  may  receive  his 
mails  with  regularity,and  send  his  commands  along  the  wires, 
while  he  gathers  strength  Ia  the  mountain  air,  and  marvels 
among  the  mysteries  of  the  hills.  Many  improvements  are 
yearly  made.  The  furnishing  is  elegant  and  complete,  and 
the  location  superior. 

Stages  leave,  twice  each  day,  for  Plymouth,  via  the  Pemige- 
wasset  valley,  and   for  Littleton,  connecting  with  express 
trains  on  the  Boston,  Concord  and  Montreal  Railroad ;  also 
stages  each  da:,    for  Bethlehem,  connecting  there  with  rail 
for  Twin  ]Mountain  and  Fabyan  Houses.    Mount  Washington 


w- 


fi^ 


82 


NORTHERN   PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


Railway  and  the  Crawford  House  are  reached  by  short  coach 
lino  from  either  of  these  Houses. 


I  §iHi 


1  >,] 


o 


o 


AKOUND  THE  PROFILE  HOUSE, 

in  near  vicinity,  thts  attractions  accessible  to  guests  by  short 
walks,  or  carriage  oi  saddle  trips,easily  made,are  more  numor- 


NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


83 


ous  and  of  more  wide  and  deserving  notoriety  than  are  to  be 
found  elsewhere  in  a  long  seeking  after  the  picturesque. 
Fronting  the  hotel  is  the  precipitous  crag,  towering  fifteen 
hundred  feet  above  the  road,  known  as 

EAGLE    CLIFF, 

once  the  chosen  home  of  mountain  eagles,  hence  the  name. 
The  cliflf  is  seen  to  best  advantage  from  Profile  T^ke,  espe- 
cially through  the  fogs  and  mists  that  hang  about  it  at  times, 
or  when  gilded  by  the  lights  of  morning  or  fading  tints  of 
evening.  A  short  ascent  up  the  side  of  Cannon  Mountain 
gives  a  point  of  view  from  which  all  the  boldness  of  the  cliff 
will  be  seen  standing  out  in  impressive  majesty. 

To  the  rear  of  the  hotel,  reached  by  footpath  through  the 
woods,  a  small  brook  plunging  in  a  succession  of  falls,  down 
tiie  rugged  ledges  of  the  hillside,  gives  you,  if  you  are  fortu- 
nate to  see  it  after  its  volume  has  been  swelled  by  rains,  a 
most  pleasing  and  attractive  sight,  a  fitting  introduction  to 
greater  wonders  yet  unseen.  The  ple!ising  picture  spread 
before  you  of  the  quiet  lake  below,  the  mountains,  valleys 
and  forests,  which  you  here  overlook,  will  amply  repay  you 
for  the  climbing. 

Beneath  *'  Eagle  Cliff,"  northward  from  thQ  hotel  on  the 
Franconia  road,  locked  within  a  circle  of  hills  and  embosom- 
ed in  green  forest,  is  the  wonderful  and  widely  famed  little 
sheet  of  water  known  as 

ECHO  LAKE. 

Floating  upon  its  silvery  surface  in  the  boat  provided  for 
visitors,  you  may  wake  resounding  and  multiplying  echoes 
from  the  circling  mountains.  Your  halloo  comes  back  from 
many  hills  as  though  a  mocking  circle  of  sentinels  caught  up 
the  sound  in  succession,  lessening  in  volume  and  force  until 
it  takes  its  flight  far  away  in  the  fastnesses  of  the  ravines. 
The  blast  of  a  bugle  or  horn  comes  back  in  softened  repeti- 
tion of  musical  echoes  and  re-echoes  dying  out  in  waves  of 
sound  among  distant  summits.  Do  not  omit  to  visit  this 
weird  spot  at  the  quiet  morning  or  still  evening  hour,  when 
all  nature  conspires  to  enhance  its  loveliness  and  heighten  its 


I'iS'J'!- 


ii 


i 


I 


\i       : 


84 


NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


Echo  Lake. 

charms,  and  the  changes  of  color  are  no  less  wonderful  tlism 
the  reverberations  of  sound.  Horns,  bugles,  a  cannon  and 
other  instruments  for  waking  echoes,  pleasing  and  terrific, 
are  here  to  be  had  for  the  use  of  visitors. 

CANNON   MOUNTAIN 

is  so  called  from  a  rock  or  combination  of  rocks  near  the 
summit  resembling  a  huge  cannon,  seeming  to  command  the 
passage  of  the  Notch  from  its  high  position.  It  is  also  called 
Profile  Mountain  from  the  renowned  "  Profile  "  on  its  south- 
ern wall.  The  summit  is  about  2,000  feet  above  the  road  and 
3,500  feet  above  sea  level,  and  its  steep  sides  covered  with  a 
thick  growth  of  deciduous  trees,  stand  facing  the  slopes  of 
Mount  Lafayette  and  form  the  western  side  of  the  Notch. 


NORTHERN  FLEABURE  TRAVEL. 


85 


The  ascent  of  this  mountain,  by  footpath,  is  one  of  the 
pleasures  of  a  visit  to  Franconia,  though,  possibly,  there 
may  be  more  pleasure  in  the  outlook  than  in  the  climbing. 

The  top  is  a  surface  of  bald  rock,  not  reached  without  vig- 
orous exertion.  This  height  gained,  you  look  upon  that  tow- 
ering cluster  of  peaks — the  White  Mountains  proper — down 
the  broad  valley  of  the  Pemigewasset,  and  upon  all  the  varied 
contrasts  of  mountain  and  meadow,  lake  and  village,  river 
and  stream,  that  combine  in  the  wide  landscape  seen  from 
this  high  summit, 

The  ascent  of  *'  Bald  Mountain  "  is  another  less  tiresome 
trip,  made  by  carriages  if  yon  wish,  nearly  to  the  summit, 
but  easily  made  by  pedestrians.  The  view  is  wide  in  extent, 
looking  down  into  tl ^  Notch  and  its  wonders,  northward 
upon  the  distant  broke  .  line  of  hills,  and  **  Lafayette  "  swells 
high  above  you  to  the  eastward,  while  the  sweeping  shadows 
or  trailing  vapors  roll  along  the  rugged  slopes,  and  through 
the  broad  valleys,  in  a  moving  scene  of  beauty  which  will 
f:ule  only  with  the  failure  of  memory.  The  path  to  this  sum- 
mit diverges  from  the  Littleton  road  about  a  mile  from  the 
Profile  House. 

THE  PROFILE, 

or  ••  Old  Man  of  the  Mountain,"  is  best  seen  in  the  sombre 
lights  of  the  coming  evening.  This  bold  combination  of 
rocky  masses,  forming  that  wonderful  imitation'of  the  out- 
lines of  the  human  face,  perhaps,  more  than  any  other  natu- 
ral feature  of  the  mountains,  excites  the  curiosity  of  visitors. 
It  is  a  bold  combination  of  rocks  forming  the  granite  portrait 
only  when  viewed  from  the  proper  location .  Change  the  point 
of  view,  for  any  considerable  distance,  and  the  features  be- 
come a  shapeless  mass  of  rocks  and  crags.  The  rocks  which 
form  this  wonderful  outline  are  not  in  perpendicular  line, 
but,  appearing  so,  are  combined  perfectly  in  a  sharp,  angular 
and  unmistakable  imitation  of  the  human  face. 

The  proper  point  of  view  is  only  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
from  the  Profile  House  on  the  road  leading  down  the  Notch. 
The  granite  face  stands  out  from  the  southern  crest  of  Can- 
non Mountain  in  ms^estic  repose,  fifteen  hundred  feet  abov6 


It  - ; 


Hi  ' 


86 


NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


The  Profile, 

the  surface  of  Profile  Lake,  unmoved  by  the  mad  fury  of 
tempests  and  storms  or  the  golden  touch  of  morning  sunlight, 
looking  out  from  its  rocky  throne,  insensible  to  passion,  pleas- 
ure or  pain,  with  the  sharp  and  stony  lines  of.  the  immobile 
face  set  in  unchangeable  grandeur,  solemn  and  awe-inspiring 
with  its  ages  of  exposure  to  the  storms  and  tempests,  the  ad- 
miration of  thousands  who  look  upon  it  with  bated  breath. 
When  viewed  in  the  coming  twilight,  there  is  no  need  of  call- 
ing on  the  imagination  to  coiyure  out  of  the  rocky  outlines 
the  •*  Great  Stone  Face." 

"  Full  human  profile,  noee  and  chin  distinct, 
Mouth  muttering  rhythms  of  silence  up  the  sky. 
And  fed  at  evening  with  the  blood  of  suns." 

Under  the  full  glare  of  the  midday  sun  it  is  seen  to  least  ad- 


l: 


NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


87 


* 


vantage,  but,  when  "shadowed  with  clouds  and  the  glorified 
vapor  of  the  mountains  clustering  about  it,"  all  the  grandeur 
of  the  l)old  outlines  are  apparent.  Viewed  from  any  other 
point  than  the  locality  named,  it  is  an  unmeaning  mass  of 
jagged  rocks— a  chaotic  ruin.  The  fine  imagination  of  llaw- 
tliorne  likens  it  to  "  a  mighty  angel  sitting  among  the  liills, 
and  enrobing  himself  in  a  cloud-vesture  of  gold  and  purple." 
It  is  a  weird  spot  to  spend  the  evening  liour  by  the  sliores 
of  Profile  Lake  under  the  benignant  face  set  in  granite  out- 
lines among  slopes  down  which  highland  rivulets  plunge  over 
tilted  walls  of  rock,  the  clustering  hills  where  eclioes  rever- 
berate, and  "  clouds  trail  their  soft  shadows  in  the  gatliering 
mist." 


i'ltOMLE    LtXKt.. 


\ 


88 


NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


At  the  base  of  Cannon  Mountain,  directly  beneath  the 
over-hanging  portrait  of  the  *'  Old  Man,"  is  a  beautiful  sheet 
of  water,  a  quarter  of  a  mile  long  by  one-eighth  of  a  mile 
wide,  sleeping  in  the  gi*een  forests  which  enclose  it  and  hang 
in  shadow  in  its  pure  depths.  The  quiet  beauty  of  the  scene 
will  excite  the  admiration  of  the  coldest  nature.  Fanciful 
names  have  been  bestowed  upon  it,  such  as  the  **01d  Man's 
Mirror  "  and  **  Old  Man^s  Washbowl ;"  but  however  named, 
or  if  nameless,  it  is  one  of  the  gems  in  the  gallery  of  moun- 
tain pictures  seen  in  Franconia.  It  is  the  home  of  that  lover 
of  cool  mountain  streams  and  lakes,  the  beautiful  trout,  for 
which  you  must  angle  with  skill,  for  no  careless  hand  secures 
this  wai'y  beauty.  You  must  also  visit  the  Trout  House, 
just  below,  where  these  shy  beauties  are  seen  by  hundreds. 

THE  ASCENT  OF  MOUNT  LAFAYETTE. 

The  climbing  of  this,  the  highest  peak  of  the  Franconia 
range,  (height  5,100  feet,)  is  considered  second  only  in  inter- 
est to  the  ascent  of  Mount  Washington.  A  half  day's  absence 
from  the  hotel  is  necessary  for  the  trip,  and  horses  with  the 
necessary  conveniences  for  the  ascent  are  kept  at  the  base, 
with  competent  guides  for  the  accommodation  of  tourists. 

A  new  bridle  path  has  been  built  for  the  lower  half  of  the 
ascent,  winding  up  the  ravine  just  south  of  Eagle  Cliff,  leav- 
ing the  highway  almost  opposite  the  hotel,  shortening  the 
distance  some  three  miles. 

A  shelter  has  been  provided  upon  the  summit  for  the  pro- 
tection of  visitors,  and  the  prospect  is  one  of  the  widest 
which  invites  the  eye  in  the  whole  mountain  region ;  looking 
away  over  the  great  intervening  reach  of  hills  and  valleys  to 
distant  Katahdin  on  the  very  eastern  outpost  of  the  army  of 
hills ;  upon  the  great  cluster  of  mountain  monarchs  of  which 
Washington  is  the  peerless  centre;  upon  the  northern  peaks 
away  beyond  Lancaster ;  across  the  Connecticut  Valley  upon 
the  hills  of  Vermont  and  the  swelling  crests  of  the  Green 
Mountains,  the  valley  of  the  Connecticut  and  the  villages  on 
either  side,  the  wild  **  Ammonusuc,"  and  the  villages  of  Lit- 
tleton and  Bethlehem.    The  southern  view  is  down  the  fair 


"^1^'7'Wli 


NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


89 


Talley  of  the  Fcmigewasset,  "while  great  Moosilank  swells 
nobly  into  view  and  Monadnock  and  Kearsarge  bound  the 


vision. 


DOWN  THE  NOTCH. 


As  you  ride  down  the  Notch,  from  the  Profile  House,  the 
bare  rooky  wall  of  Cannon,  (or  Profile,)  Mountain  is  to  the 
right  with  a  forest  covered  base.  At  the  proper  point  the  huge 
rocks  combine  in  the  "  Great  Stone  Face,"  and  dissolve  again 
in  ruin.  The  scene  on  either  hand  is  bold,startling  and  novel. 
Among  attractions  most  noted  are 

walker's  FALLS. 

These  falls  are  a  half  mile  from  the  roadway  down  the 
Notch.  The  path  diverges  from  the  main  way,  some  three 
liles  below  the  ProfileHouse.  Following  a  small  brook,which 
uere  crosses  the  road  from  the  west,  a  succession  of  pictur- 
esque waterfalls  are  reached,  leaping  over  the  rocky  shelves 
or  sliding  over  the  mountain  slopes  which  form  the  bed  of 
the  little  torrent  broken  into  foam  by  impeding  masses  of 
rock.  A  half  day's  climbing  along  the  course  of  this  brook 
will  afiord  you  a  succession  of  pleasant  surprises  as  you  fol- 
low its  worn  channel  in  the  rock,  its  gliding  course  over  the 
water-worn  granite,  its  successive  leaps  over  the  ledges, 
mingling  its  waters  with  those  of  the  fair  Pemigewasset, 
which  soon  pours  its  limpid  flood  over  the  granite  rim  of  the 

BASIN, 

some  three  and  one-half  miles  south  of  the  Pi'ofile  House. 
This  granite  reservoir  is  a  ;vorn  pjid  curious  cavity  in  the 
solid  rocks,  close  by  the  roadway;  evidently  made  by  the 
whirling  of  rocks  in  the  eddying  currents;  the  waters  sweep 
the  circle  several  times  in  swift  rotation  before  making  their 
exit  at  the  opposite  side.  The  circular  walls  are  very  smooth 
and  regular,  the  water  falling  within  it  in  a  pretty  cascade 
ov  er  the  brim  and  making  its  exit  by  a  channel  worn  into  a 
fancied  resemblance  to  the  human  leg,  hence  the  outlet  is 
sometimes  known  as  the  "Old  Man's  Leg." 
The  diameter  of  the  Basin  is  about  foity  feet,  the  depth  to 


Es& 


90 


NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


'•#' 


the  bottom  twenty-eight  feet,  with  a  usual  depth  of  twelve 
feet  of  water. 

A  small  stream  among  the  hills  to  the  left  of  the  Basin, 
flows  over  tlie  granite  ledges  on  the  mountain  slope  in  pic- 
turesque and  musical  descent  forming  a  succession  of  the 
most  lovely  cascades  which  may  be  followed  up  with  pleas- 
ure to  the  upper  fall  where  the  stream  plunges  in  a  leap  of 
some  twenty-five  feet.  ^' 

THE  FLUME  HOUSE. 

This  house  is  a  small  and  well  kept  hotel  very  pleasantly 
located,  facing  Mount  Liberty,  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Flume, 
the  Basin,  the  Pool,  and  other  natural  objects  of  interest, 
affording  from  its  very  doors  a  view  of  the  three  great  peaks 
of  this  range,  Lafayette,  Liberty  and  Pleasant,  their  harsh 
outlines  somewhat  softened  by  the  distance,  and  of  the  wide 
valley  of  the  Pemigewasset,  in  all  its  picturesque  and  quiet 
beauty. 

This  house  is  kept  by  the  proprietors  of  the  Profile  House, 
and  visitors  will  find  it  a  pleasant  spot  in  which  to  spend 
their  seiison  of  leisure,  be  it  short  or  protracted. 

THE  CASCADES 

are  below  the  Flume  and  drop  in  gradual  descent  of  several 
hundred  feet  in  musical  silver  lini^s  and  gliding  sheots  of  pure 
emerald  waters  over  the  wide,  smooth,  granite  inclining 
plane,  fretted  more  and  more,  as  you  ascend  to  the  Flume  by 
the  help  of  rustic  bridges,  with  many  charming  basins  and 
pools  of  transparent  water.  You  reach  these  wonders  from 
the  road  by  a  pleasant  path  through  the  forests,  a  portion  of 
which  is  graded  as  a  carriage  road. 

THE  FLUME. 

This  central  wonder  of  this  part  of  the  valley  is  a  narrow, 
rocky  ravine  or  worn  channel,  with  perpendicular  walls  on 
either  side  of  50  to  60  feet  in  height  an  I  some  20  feet  apart. 
"Within  these  regular  and  moss-covered  rocks,  evidently  rent 
asunder  by  some  throe  of  nature,  a  sm  ill  stream  threads  its 
way,  in  lovely  confusion  and  perplexing  disturbance  along 
the  broken  bod  of  huge  rocks  which,  from  time  to  time,  have 


NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


91 


The  Flume. 

fallen  from  the  walls.  The  visitor  can  ascend  through  this 
shadowed  and  wonderful  glen  which  extends  some  800  feet 
between  walls,  apparently  the  work  of  Titans  in  the  olden 
time ;  a  rude  pathway  of  planks  and  needful  artificial  helps 
protecting  him  from  all  disagreeable  contact  with  the  mur- 
muring stream  bubbling  and  complaining  among  the  rocks 
below,  and  resting  often  in  lovely  pools  and  fissures. 

At  one  point  the  grand  fissure  contracts  to  a  span  of  twelve 
feet  and  holds  suspended,  apparently  with  slightest  security, 
"  The  Great  Stone  Wedge  " — an  enormous  egg-shaped  bould- 
er of  many  tons  weight,  an  object  of  active  speculation  and 
lively  curiosity,  causing  an  involuntary  tremor  as  you  pass 
beneath.  The  road  to  the  "  Flume "  diverges  from  the 
turnpike  directly  in  front  of  the  Flume  House.     In  good 


92 


NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


weather  a  visit  to  this  wonder  before  breakfast  is  a  grand  ex 
perience  and  a  good  appetizer. 

THE    POOL. 

After  viewing  the  wonders  of  the  Flume  you  take  the  path 
leading  through  the  forest;  leaving  the  road  near  the  hotel 
stables  and  following  it  for  half  a  mile  you  reach  the  Pool,  a 
vast  natural  well,  somewhat  regular  in  form  and  outline,  ex- 
cavated or  worn  in  the  solid  gi*anite  bed,  a  sort  of  immense 
basin  repeated  on  a  grund  scale.  A  small  stream  flows  over 
the  brim  from  the  north,  and  through  a  naiTow  fissure  oppo- 
site, the  amber  waters  find  exit. 

The  span  of  the  rim  of  this  gloomy  natural  reservoir  is 
about  150  feet,  the  depth  is  about  190  feet,  with  40  feet  of 
water  in  its  sullen  depths.  The  beauty  of  the  cascades,  the 
Basin  and  the  Flume  does  not  pertain  to  the  Pool,  but  as  a 
curiosity  not  to  be  omitted  in  the  tour  of  mountain  wonders, 
it  will  amply  repay  your  visit.  A  clumsy  boat  sails  upon  the 
gloomy  and  circumscribed  circuit  of  its  waters.  Steps  lead 
down  within  the  walls  and  quite  likely  you  will  spend  some 
time  within  this  solemn  temple  where,  if  alone,  and  to  dream- 
ing inclined,  you  may  muse  for  hours  ere  you  come  back  to 
the  brightness  of  the  world  again ;  what  a  place  for  Haw- 
thorne to  weave  the  fine  threads  of  his  fancy  into  a  weird 
and  wondrous  tale. 

HARVARD  OR  GEORGIANNA  PALLS. 

Diverging  from  the  Lincoln  turnpike,  some  two  miles  be- 
low the  Flume  Hotel,  you  shortly  reach  a  brook  leaping  down 
the  hillside,  west  of  the  roadway,  in  cascades  which  are 
among  the  very  finest  of  the  valley. 

T  he  little  stream  at  one  point  takes  a  great  leap  of  eighty 
feet  over  the  ledge  to  bound  off  in  another  of  nearly  equal 
V*  ^^  'risning  a  line  of  silver  sheen  through  the  arching  fringe 
^  Ht?;^'>:  bbery  that  serves  to  heighten  its  beauty.  Down  a 
iVv^li' <^  b'oken  descent  of  three-fourths  of  a  mile  the  waters 
^  icet  the  quiet  river  below.    Looking  upwards  along 

the  bed  of  the  stream  as  you  ascend,  the  sight  is  one  of  rare 
beauty ;  each  stage  of  elevation  developes  new  attractions  in 


ghty 
qiial 
inge 
vn  a 
ters 
long 
rare 

sin 


NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


93 


the  fall  itself  and  the  views  of  the  valley  below,  caught  in 
broken  vistas  between  the  forest  trees;  while  from  the  sum- 
mit of  the  ridge  you  have  an  outlook  not  to  be  forgotten  in 
memories  of  your  journey  among  the  hills.  Miniature  basins 
of  the  purest  water,  here  and  there  along  its  course,  excite 
the  admiration  of  the  observing. 

These  latter  wonders  are  in  the  romantic  town  of  Lincoln , 
the  first  named,  around  the  Profile  House,  are  in  Franconia. 
The  stage  route  from  the  Profile  passes  down  the  Pemige- 
wasset  Valley,  previously  described  in  the  approach  by  this 
route  from  Plymouth. 

•      MOUNT  PEMIGEW ASSET, 

in  the  rear  of  the  Flume  House,  may  be  ascended  with  no 
great  difiiculty  by  visitors  of  either  sex,  and  the  view,  espe- 
cially at  sunset,  is  one  of  the  rare  delights  of  the  journey, 
the  setting  sun  bathing  the  grand  outlines  of  the  wide  land- 
scape in  a  blaze  of  glory  and  splendor  and  gilding  the  gorges 
and  peaks  with  subdued  and  waving  lights. 

Only  those  whose  limited  time  and  means  prevent  further 
progress  will  leave  the  Franconia  region  without  pushing  on 
to  the  still  more  grand  and  impressive,  though  not  more 
beautiful  or  varied  scenery  around  Mount  Washington  and 
the  White  Mountain  Notch  described  in  the  next  chapter. 


Wwf 


III 


SS;V 


CHAPTER  VI. 


THE  WHITE  MOUNTAIN  RANGE. 


A  modern  writer  has,  in  poetic  and  expressive  language, 
described  the  mountains  as  "  outbursts  of  the  globe's  pas- 
sion " — "  witnesses  of  a  pent  up  fury  " — **  upspringing  wedges 
of  rock,  flinging  the  garment  of  soil  away,  tilting  and  separa- 
ting the  strata  through  which  they  break,  and  standing  bare 
for  the  scrutiny  of  science." 

Terrible  must  have  been  the  throes  of  nature  which  up- 
heaved the  masses  of  the  granite  hills — known  in  common 
language  as  the  White  Mountains  —  given  as  a  general 
name  for  the  whole  mountain  region  of  northern  New  Hamp- 
shire, but  properly  belonging  to  the  eastern  and  more  exten- 
sive range,  of  which  Mount  Washington  (6,285  feet  in  height) 
is  the  crowning  glory.  They  are  called  White  from  the  fact 
that,  during  the  larger  part  of  the  year  the  snow  remains 
upon  the  towering  summits,  yielding  only  to  the  intense  heat 
of  mid-summer,  and  are  the  highest  peaks  east  of  the  Missis- 
sippi, excepting  the  high  summits  of  the  Black  Mountains  in 
North  Carolina. 

The  "  White  Mountain  Notch  "  is  the  frowning  pass  pecu- 
liar to  this  range,  also  the  pass  known  as  Pinkham  Notch,  and, 
awrfy  to  the  north,  Dixville  Notch.  The  range  covers  some 
forty  miles  square  of  country,  and  lies  in  the  counties  of  Coos 
and  Qrafton. 

The  principal  summits  are  Mount  Webster,  (4,000  feet 
elevation);  Mount  Jackson,  (4,000  feet);  Mount  Clinton, 
(4,200  feet) ;  Mount  Pleasant,  (4,800  feet) ;  Mount  Franklin, 
(4,900  feet) ;  Mount  Monroe,  (5,300  feet) ;  Mount  Jeflferson 


".'WMPMn 


NORTHERN  PLKA8URE  TRAVEL. 


95 


(5,710  feet) ;  Mount  Adams,  (5,800  feet) ;  and  Mount  Wash- 
ington, (6,285  feet).  On  the  top  of  Mount  Jefferson  is  a  pond 
of  considerable  extent,  with  no  visible  outlet,  but  with 
waters  clear  as  crystal  and  cold  as  ice.  The  ascent  of  this 
summit  is  seldom  made,  so  rugged  is  the  way. 

Within  the  central  cluster  of  the  liighest  peaks  of  this 
range,  in  near  proximity,  are  the  sources  of  the  Ammonu- 
suc,  the  Saco,  the  Peabody,  Ellis  and  Moose  Rivers;  the 
waters  of  one  reaching  Long  Island  Sound  through  the  wind- 
ing Connecticut,  the  others,  by  western  slopes,  reach  the  At- 
lantic on  the  eastern  coast.  Along  these  rivers,  and  on  the 
swift  mountain  streams  which  feed  them,  are  the  cascades 
and  fallSt  which  relieve  the  ruggedness  of  the  slopes  and 
gorges  as  laughter  lightens  the  hum-drum  realities  of  every 
day  business.  In  the  swales  around  the  mountains  are  the 
great  forests  whence  the  lumbermen  supply  the  demand  (5f 
the  older  towns.  There  is  a  story  of  a  pine  in  the  old  pri- 
meval forests  towards  Lancaster,  264  feet  in  height,  long  since 
put  to  use. 

'i'he  Notch,  only  twenty-two  feet  wide  at  its  entrance,  next 
to  Mount  Washington,  and  the  view  from  its  summit  is  the 
great  natural  feature  of  the  range.  It  is  three  miles  in 
length,  the  towering  cliffs  reaching  in  some  places  2,000  feet 
in  height.  The  Crawford  House  is  near  its  northern  entrance, 
nnd  is  the  point  from  which  to  visit  its  wonders.  The  head- 
waters of  the  Saco  flow  through  the  pass,  which  is  the 
thoroughfare  for  travel  from  Littleton,  Bethlehem,  and  local- 
ities on  the  Connecticut  and  Ammonusuc  to  Conway  and  the 
Saeo  Valley,  or  the  reverse ;  though,  since  the  completion 
of  the 

MOUNT  WASHINGTON  RAILWAY, 

much  of  the  pleasure  travel  goes  over  Mount  Washington, 
ascending  by  rail  for  three  miles  from  the  lower  station  to 
the  Mount  Washington  House,  recently  erected  on  the  sum- 
mit. This  road,  rising  in  some  portions  2,000  feet  to  the  mile, 
and  an  average  rise  of  one  foot  in  four,  offei's  a  mode  of  as- 
c<>nt  which  has  become  the  great  sensation  of  the  mountain 
tour.    Descending  on  the  east  side  to  the  Glen  House,  by  the 


[  i;iJ.i«^. 


96 


NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


carriage  roadway,  the  excursionist  has  a  deUghtful  and  novel 
experience  of  mountain  staging,  with  little  of  fatigue  or 
exhausting  eflEbrt.  This  journey  of  a  day  is  not  one  to  be  for- 
gotten.   Well  might  Whittier  sing : 

"With  smoking  axle  hot  with  speed,  witli  steeds  of  Are  and  steam, 
Wide-waked  to«daj,  leaves  yesterday  behin<l  him  like  a  dream." 

Passengers  on  the  Wing  Railroad  (the  branch  previously 
described  leading  to  this  point)  may  stop  at  Bethlehem  or 
pass  on  to  the  large,  first-class  and  commodious 


I'- 


NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


97 


TWIN  MOUNTAIN  HOUSE, 

A.  T.  &  O.  F.  Barron,  proprietors.  One  of  the  largest,  finest 
and  most  complete  of  the  mountain  hotels,  situated  on  the 
Ammonusuc  River,  commanding  a  full  view  of  the  Franconia 
and  White  Mountians  and  extensively  patronized  as  a  con- 
venient point  of  rest  from  the  fatigue  of  railway  travel 
before  attempting  the  rugged  ascents,  and,  also,  as  a  delight- 
ful place  of  rest  after  returning  from  the  somewhat  exhaust- 
ing tour  of  the  summits. 

From  this  house  It  is  but  10  miles  to  the  Crawford  House, 
(5  by  rail,  5  by  stage)  10  miles  to  the  depot  of  t!ie  Mount 
Washington  Railway,  where  cars  are  taken  for  a  trip  over 
tlie  famed  rail  line  to  the  crowning  summit,  11  miles  to  the 
Waumbek  House  in  Jefferson,  36  miles  to  tflb  Glen  House, 
and  28  miles  to  Gorham,  by  the  Cherry  Mountain  road. 

Tlie  express  train  reaches  tliis  station  at  4  o'clock  p.  M.,  and 
continuing  on  arives  at 

THE  FABYAN   HOUSE 

at  half-past  four  o'clock  p.  m.  This  house  is  about  one-half 
mile  from  the  White  Mountain  House  and  near  the  junction 
of  the  Mount  Washington  Turnpike  and  thp  road  to  the 
Crawford  House.  This  new,  commodious  and  elegant  hotel 
has  boen  lately  erected  and  will  be  opened  to  guests  the  pre- 
sent season,  near  the  site  of  the  old  building  destroyed  by 
fire  in  1868,  the  proprietors  not  being  deterred  from  rebuild- 
ing by  the  tradition  of  the  red  man's  curse  in  the  olden  time, 
or  the  fiery  ordeal  of  the  past. 

This  new  and  first-class  house  is  the  largest  and  most  com- 
plete of  the  hotels  in  this  section  of  the  mountains ;  the 
accommodations  are  for  450  guests, and  are  on  the  most  liberal 
scale.  The  view  from  its  piazzas  is  directly  upon  Mount 
Washington  and  the  mountain  railway.  A  large  farm  is  con- 
nected, supplying  milk  and  other  luxuries.  Mr.  Lindsay, 
formerly  of  the  Eagle  Hotel,  Concord,  and  Mr.  J.  M.  French, 
formerly  of  the  Pemigewasset  House,  Plymouth,  N.  H.,  will 
do  honor  to  their  position  as  proprietors,  and  their  past 
experience  is  a  giiitrantee  of  future  success.    The  Fabyan 


: 


NORTHERN   PLEASURE  TRAVEL 


99 


fe-    '! 


has  been  built  by  a  company,  who  saw  the  need  of  a  better 
hoiiso  in  this  section,  to  accommodate  tiie  gi'catly  increasing 
travel.  Two  hundred  thousand  dollars  have  been  invested  in 
buildings  and  farm,  and  it  is  the  design  of  the  proprietors  to 
keep  it  in  the  best  possil)le  manner.  Spacious  and  higii 
studded  rooms,telegraph  office . I irst-cl ass  livery,billiard  room, 
bath  room,  band  of  music,  etc.  The  elevation  is  2,000  feet 
above  sea  level.  No  hay  fever  or  asthmatic  difliculties.  Best 
Concord  coaches,  with  experienced  drivers,  run  to  the  foot  of 
Mount  Washington  Railway,  connecting  with  trains  up  the 
mountain  side. 

THE  WHITE  MOUNTAIN  HOUSE 

is  about  three-fourths  of  a  mile  from  the  Fabyan  House,  west, 
and  in  sight  of  the  same,  is  a  well  kept  house  at  the  intersec- 
tion of  the  Cherry  ^Mountain  Road.  Near  these  mountain 
houses  are  some  of  the  wild  falls  of  the  Ammonusuc  River, 
the  course  of  which  no  tourist  should  fail  to  explore  in  this 
vicinity. 

MOUNT    PEABODY, 

formerly  Mount  Prospect,  easily  ascended  from  these  points 
by  carriage  road,  affords  from  the  summit  a  beautiful  view  of 
the  western  slope  of  the  mountains. 

MOUNT  WASHINGTON. 

The  Turnpike,  Mountain  Railway,  Hotel  and  View 

FROM  Summit. 

This  imperial  summit  of  the  great  northern  range  reaches 
the  height  of  6,285  feet,  and  overlooks  all  surr&unding  peaks, 
afibrding  the  widest  outlook  of  any  summit  on  ttie  northern 
or  eastern  coast. 

Approached  by  the  Mount  Washington  Turnpike  and  Rail- 
way on  the  west,and  the  carriage  road.from  the  Glen  House,on 
the  east,  tourists  can  ascend  by  railway  and  return  by  carriage 
road  to  the  Glen  or  if  the  ascent  is  made  from  the  (Jlen,  can 
return  by  railway,  thus,  in  either  case,  getting  full  experi- 
ence of  this  journey,  which  must  be  eiyoyed  in  all  its  novelty 
to  be  fully  appreciated. 


rr  V' ' 


100 


NORTHERN   PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


u 


i 


Presuming  that  you  start  from  the  hospitable  shelter  of  tlie 
Fabyan  Honse  you  take  one  of  the  Concord  coaches  and  ad- 
vance by  the 

MOUNT  WASHINGTON  TUllNPIKE, 

now  a  safe  thoroughfare,  recently  put  in  good  condition,  at 
heavy  expense,  into  the  immediate  neighborhood  of  the  great 
hills,  passing  in  your  trip  the  upper  falls  on  the  Ammonusnc. 
Here  the  river  flows  in  a  narrow,  winding  channel  in  the 
rocks,  lashed  into  foam  by  its  wild  rush  between  walls  of 
granite  and  among  impeding  boulders.  These  fiills  extend 
for  the  distant  of  some  three  hundred  feet,  and  have  a  descent 
of  about  fifty  feet.  The  tourist  finds  in  the  rnggcd  beauty  of 
the  massive  walls,  the  curious  hollowing  and  shaping  of  th(3 
rocks  by  the  continual  action  of  musical  waters,  in  the  sur- 
rounding scenery  and  peculiar  charm  of  the  rapids,  a  feature 
not  to  be  omitted  in  the  chain  of  mountain  pictures. 

Winding  along  the  base  of  Mount  Washington  and  up  to 
the  station  of  the  railway,  you  are  made  sensible  of  your 
approach  to  the  great  central  attraction  of  the  hills.  The 
burly  forms  of  the  surrounding  pe^aks  swell  up  on  every  hand, 
seeming  at  times  to  stand  as  an  impenetrable  -barrier  to  your 
further  progress,  but,  continuing  on,  you  reach  Ammonusuc 
Station,  at  Marshfield,  the  lower  terminus  of  the 

MOUNTAIN  RAILWAY. 

This  renowned  mountain  railway  was  chartered  by  the 
State  Legislature  (as  one  of  the  members  remarked,)  on  the 
same  principle  that  one  might  have  been  chartered  to  the 
moon ;  the  one  being,  to  the  ordinary  mind,  as  practicable  as 
the  other;  but  the  energy  and  practical  ingenuity,  and  per- 
sistence under  discouragement  and  ridicule,  of  Sylvester 
Marsh,  Esq.,  the  projector  and  inventor,  with  the  efficient 
aid  of  J.  E.  Lyon,  Esq.,  President  of  the  Boston,  Concord 
&  Montreal  Railroad,  and  Walter  Aiken,  Esq.,  of  Franklin, 
who  built  the  engines  and  cars,  and  the  financial  aid  of  rail- 
ways and  individuals,  accomplished  the  feat  and  established 
the  practical  working  of  the  enterprise,  which  abolishes,  in 
great  ireasure,  the  hardships  of  mountain  climbing. 


NORTHERN   PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


101 


The  length  of  the  railway  is  about  three  miles.  The  total 
rise  from  the  lower  station  to  Mount  Washington  House,  on 
the  summit,  is  3,625  feet;  the  steepest  grade  is  1,980  feet  to 
the  mile,  about  one  foot  in  three,  but  averaging  through  tlie 
entire  course  one  foot  in  four. 

Tlie  road  bed  is  constructed  with  special  reference  to  safe- 
ty and  durability,  of  heavy  timber,  clamped  to  the  rocks  of 
the  mountain  slope,  and  braced  and  secured  in  the  strongest 
manner.  The  track  is  of  the  usual  gauge,  with  side  rails  of 
tlie  usual  railway  pattern,  and  a  central  safety  rail,  construct- 
ed of  two  parallel  bars  of  *angle  iron,  with  cross  bolts  of  li 
inch  round  iron,  at  intervfils  of  about  four  inches ;  between 
these  bolts  play  the  cogs  of  a  central  wheel  of  the  locomo- 
tive. In  addition  to  ordinary  brakes  the  atmospheric  bnikes, 
instantaneous  in  their  action,  are  in  use,  and,  following  and 
dropping  into  the  notch-rim  of  the  driving-wheel,  is  a  firm 
iron  support  which  would  effectually  prevent  the  descent  of 
the  train  in  case  of  injury  to  the  machinery.  Rollers  running 
under  the  angle  iron  prevent  jumping  or  slipping  from  the 
trnck.     With  thes«^  arrangements  for  safety,   the  passenger 


I'- a 


102 


NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


need  feel  no  alarm  or  apprehension  of  danger,  the  trip  being 
as  safe  as  ordinary  rail  transit,  no  accident  having  occurred 
in  the  five  years  the  road  has  been  in  operation,  nor  damage 
of  a  penny,  to  life,  limb  or  material,  during  the  time  of  con- 
struction or  since  its  operation  as  a  line  of  travel. 

The  locomotive  is  of  novel  construction,  being  made  with 
especial  reference  to  the  steep  inclination  of  the  road,  and, 
when  standing  upon  the  level  track,  appears  sadly  out  of 
balance.  Safety  and  power  are  attained  in  the  construction 
at  the  expense  of  speed,  wliich  is  not  sought.  The  locomo- 
tive is  always  below  the  train,  pushing  the  coaches  upward 
as  you  ascend  and  preceding  them  in  the  return  down  the 
slope.  The  cars  have  seats  hung  at  an  angle,  facing  toward 
the  base. 

The  superintendent  is  Capt.  J.  W.  Dodge,  whose  interest 
in  this  novel  line  of  travel  is  equalled  only  by  his  willingness 
to  satisfy  the  many  inquiries  of  the  thousands  who  for  tlie 
first  time  ascend  the  mountain  side  by  the  ''Sensation  Route." 

Single  fares  either  way  are  $  3,  or  for  both  ways  $5.  Trunks 
and  heavy  baggage  involve  an  extra  charge  according  to 
space  occupied ;  but  ordinary  hand  baggage  is  carried  free  of 
expense.  The  baggage  of  parties  returning  from  this  point 
will  be  checked  through  to  their  destination,  if  upon  the 
routes  previously  described. 

The  ascent  is  made  in  an  hoiir  and  a  quarter,  including  the 
stoppag(is  for  water,  and  somewhat  less  in  the  downward  trip 
which  is  made  by  force  of  gravity  alone,  regulated  by  the 
brakes.    The  telegraph  wires  extend  to  the  summit. 

No  three  miles  of  railway  in  the  world  nflfbrd  such  a  suc- 
cession of  wild  and  startling  views  as  the  passenger  has  on 
his  mountain  ride  on  this  iron  line  up  the  steep  inclination 
of  Mount  Washington.  Glimpses  of  the  valley  below, 
through  which  winds  the  turnpike,  the  wide  broken  view  of 
the  valley  and  mountain,  the  Great  Gulf  to  the  left,  into  the 
depths  of  which  you  look  with  shrinking  and  trepidation, 
and,  nearing  the  summit,  an  eastward  view  down  into  the 
Glen,  with  the  white  buildings  of  the  Glen  House,  a  speck  in 
the  valley  below. 


NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


103 


The  monument  of  stones  near  the  summit  marks  the  spot 
where  in  1855,  Lizzie  Bourne,  of  Maine,  died  from  exposure, 


as  further  described  in  the  description  of  ascent  from  the  Glen 
House  by  carriage  road.  The  wsiter  stations  on  the  way  are 
called  by  appropriate  names,  such  as  Gulf  Station,  Waumbek 
Station,  etc. 

Above  Waumbek  Station  is  Jacobus  Ladder — a  long,  high 
trestle  work  on  a  steep  incline:  htire  the  change  in  vegeta- 
tion from  trees  to  lichens  is  most  marked :  as  the  train  stops 
to  receive  supply  of  water,  from  'jisterns  supplied  by  springs, 
impressive  views  of  the  valleys  are  had  and  the  wild  winds 
of  the  upper  air  currents  assert  their  strength  at  a  point  on 
the  ridge  between  Mts.  Clay  and  Washington,  the  passenger 
looks  down  a  thousand  feet  into  the  "Gulf  of  Mexico" — a 
wild  chasm  in  which  a  branch  of  Peabody  River  has  its 
source;  from  this  point  the  Jiscent  is  more  gradual. 


;ili 


104 


NORTHERN   PLEASURE   TRAVEL. 


This  journey  of  a  day,  from  Boston  to  Mount  Washington 
summit  is  one  of  magnificent  contrasts.  The  tourist,  who, 
all  day  long,  has  been  ■whirled  along  the  valleys  of  New 
England^s  fairest  rivers,  through  a  panorama  of  green  fields 
and  by  sparkling  lakes,  with  glimpses  of  distant  hills  and 
mountains,  may  end  the  day  in  the  delightful  stage  ride  and 
sensational  climbing  by  rail,  leaving  behind  the  vegetation 
of  the  plains  and  the  luxuriant  forests  around  the  mountain's 
base,  pass  the  belt  where  thrive  only  the  hardier  shrubs,  and 
the  fir  tree  is  dwarfed  to  the  span  of  a  lady's  hand,  into  the 
region  of  Alpine  plants  and  the  lichens  and  mosses  peculiar 
to  the  icy  regions  around  the  pole,  till  on  the  bare  rocks  of 
the  nearly  level  plateau,  on  this  highest  northern  outlook 
east  of  the  Rocky  Mountains, 

THE  MOUNT  WASHINGTOi?  HOUSE, 

the  new  hotel  at  the  summit  serving  the  double  purpose  of 
depot  bi^ilding  and  hotel,  receives  tlie  tired  traveler  within 
its  hospitable  doors  for  a  night  among  the  clouds.  This  new 
house  at  the  summit,  erected  in  1872,  and  furnished  and 
opened  for  visitors  the  past  season,  has  accommodations  for 
one  hundred  and  fifty  guests.  It  is  conveniently  furnished, 
and  telegraphic  and  other  facilities  are  afforded  the  guests 
who  spend  the  night  beneath  its  hospitable  roof.  All  the 
substantials  and  luxuries  furnished  at  the  mountain  houses 
are  provided  for  the  tables,  and  the  furnishing  and  manage- 
ment is  such  as  to  please  all  who  may  be  so  fortunate  as  to 
enjoy  them.  Captain  Dodge,  the  manager  of  the  Mount 
Washington  Railway,  is  the  manager  of  this  new  hotel,  :i 
sure  guarantee  of  attention  to  the  travelers'  wants.  All  the 
necessary  provisions  for  comfort  and  ease  are  provided,  and, 
in  case  the  house  should  be  overcrowded,  the  older  and  well 
known  Tip-Top  Bndi  Swrnmit  houses  will  receive  you  within 
their  more  primitive  doors.  From  this  high  altitude  of  a 
mile  and  a  quarter  above  sea  level,  we  can  now  look  down 
along  the  grand  incline,  up  which  in  vast  billows  of  land  the 
hills  have  advanced  from  the  level  sea  beach  to  this  peerless 
height,  and  around  upon  mountains  "  named,  nameless  an  d 


L 


The  iviouJST  VVa«iiingtun  House, 


106 


NORTHERN   PLEASURE   TRAVEL. 


I  I 


P  y-,. 


ill 

I ).«»  ■»/.' 
■ ■ '1  f" 


I   I^     . 


numberless,"  over  the  vast  extent  of  view  which  the  moun- 
tain, personified  by  Emekson,  thus  tersely  describes : 

•'  Every  morn  I  lift  my  head, 
Oaze  o'er  New  England  underspread, 
South  fh>m  St.  Lawrence  to  the  sound, 
From  Catskill  east  to  the  sea  bound." 

VIEW  FROM  THE  SUMMIT. 
"Crag  heaped  on  crag,  with  many  a  flery  rift  and  hoary  summit." 

The  magnitude  of  the  wide  stretch  of  country  seen  from 
this  high  altitude,  when  first  swept  by  the  eye,  is  overpower- 
ing and  confusing  from  its  extent  and  combinations.  You 
imagine  that  the  crust  of  earth  has  been  tossed  on  a  boiling 
caldron,  and,  at  the  touch  of  some  mighty  power,  been  con- 
gealed at  the  momen.  if  w  lest  of  ebulition — a  sea  of  sweep- 
ing ranges  and  isolated  peaks,  broad  valleys  and  forests, 
sparkling  lakes  and  :  inuous  streams  above  you. 

"The  sky  bends  round 
The  awful  dome  of  a  most  mighty  temple. 
Built  by  Omnipotent  hand  for  nothing  less 
Than  infinite  worship." 

The  wild  and  rocky,  but  somewhat  regular  plateau  of  the 
summit,  appears  as  an  island  surrounded  by  a  petrified  sea 
of  hills.  The  jagged  and  bare  peaks  of  the  adjacent  moun- 
tains, separated  by  ravines  and  gulfs  of  vast  depth  and  out- 
line, are  the  most  impressive  feature  of  the  wide  panorama. 

If  you  are  fortunate  to  gain  an  unobstructed  view  through 
the  wide  circle,  you  will  look  northward  over  the  billowy 
land  to  the  plains  of  Canada;  to  the  northeast  on  the  far  dis- 
tant forests  of  Maine,  with  the  dim  outline  of  Katahdin  just 
visible  in  the  distance,  while  near  at  hand  the  great  attend- 
ant mountains  of  this  group — Jefferson,  Adams  and  Mad- 
ison— tower  in  the  foreground,  a  grand  cluster  of  dark  and 
rugged  summits.  Mount  Jackson  is  on  the  southeast,  close 
at  hand,  with  the  symmetrical,  lone  summit  of  Pequakt^t 
(Kiarsarge  at  North  Conway)  in  th»  distance,  and  Sebago 
Lake  and  the  surrounding  country  in  Main,  and,  sometimes, 
the  faint  blue  line  of  the  ocean,  scarcely  to  be  sepanited  from 
the  sky  in  the  far  distance.    Southward  is  the  valley  of  the 


NORTHERN   PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


107 


S.1C0  with  its  villages,  the  sharp  pyramids  of  Chucoriia  and 
the  gl^am  of  fair  Winnipesaukee.  Southwesterly  the  remain- 
ing mountains  of  this  range,  Mount  Monroe  with  its  rocky 
peak  and  the  Twin  ponds,  Mount  Pleasant  with  its  reguUir 
outline,  Mount  Franklin  with  a  more  level  surface.  Mount 
Willey  and  the  further  range  of  wooded  hills.  Westward, 
the  valley  of  the  Ammonusuc,  the  village  of  Bethlehem,  the 
naked  summit  of  Mount  Lafayette  in  Franconia,  the  broken 
silver  line  of  rivers,  and  in  the  dim  distance,  the  Green 
Mountains,  with  Mount  Mansfield  and  Camel's  Hump. 
Northwest,  the  picturesque  town  of  Jefferson,  Pondicherry  in 
the  embrace  of  forests,  and,  further  distant,  the  village  of 
Lancaster. 

Viewed  in  the  light  of  the  setting  sun,  or  when  morning 
lights  burn  off  the  vapors  from  the  face  of  the  wide  landscape, 
the  scene  is  one  which  pen  cannot  describe  nor  pencil  portray, 
but  which  memory  will  not  fail  to  cherish  as  the  choicest 
revelation  of  nature  to  be  seen  in  a  lifetime.  Fortune  does 
not  always  favor  the  tourist,  and  he  may  sometimes  stand 
upon  this  lofty  height,  veiled  in  impenetrable  mist,  and  the 
gloom  of  clouds,  hiding  the  grand  outlines  which  he  knows 
lie  beneath  and  around  him.  • 

If  the  rare  privilege  is  given  you  to  look  through  the  clear 
and  unobstructed  light  of  early  summer,  or  later  autumn,  on 
this  blending  scene  of  complex  and  overpowering  gi*andeur 
and  beauty,  over  which  the  contrasts  of  light  and  shade  j>lay 
upon  a  scale  wider  than  human  eye  is  often  privileged  to 
view;  the  grand  sweep  of  masses  of  cU)uds  and  the  attendant 
trailing  shadows  beneath;  the  scrolls  of  mist  that  ride  upon 
the  winds  and  the  shadows  of  great  summits  throwing  their 
sombre  veil  over  whole  townships  as  the  sun  declines,  all  in- 
spire you  with  the  feeling  that  you  have  been  admitted  into 
near  and  familiar  contact  with  scenes  in  nature  heretofore 
unknown  to  you,  and  perhaps,  to  crown  all,  while  you  are 
dreaming,  a  roaring  storm  gathers  on  the  unsheltered  cone 
and  you  shrink  to  notliingness  in  the  midst  of  its  resistless 
fnry.  The  storm,  the  lightning,  and  the  clouds  are  not  from 
above,  but  you  are  in  the  midst  of  or  above  them. 


4% 


108 


NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


\m':' 


ll 


WINTER  ABOVE  THE  CLOUDS. 

On  the  bald  summit  of  Washington,  in  the  teeth  of  winter 
hurricanes,  the  daring  and  scientific  gentlemen  live  iA  arctic 
seclusion,  each  winter,  among  the  dense  clouds  and  roaring 
tempests  of  the  great  height,  alternating  with  brilliant  sunsets, 
shows  of  frost-work,  and  cloud-views;  an  experience  of 
*'  high  life,"  grand  and  sublime;  the  better  appreciated  ])y 
the  earnest  natures  who  have  experienced  it;  for  the  spice  of 
danger  and  novelty  of  experience  here  had.  Occasional  visi- 
tors relieve  the  monotony  of  their  solitary  life,  two  ladies 
being  of  the  number  who  made  the  ascent  the  past  winter. 
It  is  a  peculiar  experience  for  those  who  so  courageously 
])rave  the  exposure.  Oceans  of  clouds  pierced  by  snow- 
capped peaks,  all  below  being  hidden  in  impenetrable  frost- 
clouds  ;  the  swift  growth  of  clouds  and  storms  and  almost 
irresistible  force  of  the  winds,  with  the  lonely  lack  of  all 
animate  life,  are  the  grand  peculiarities  of  their  winter 
experience.  ^ 

THE  CRAWFORD  HOUSE 

is  situated  at  the  gate  of  the  White  Mountain  or  Crawford 
Notch,  It  is  one  of  the  finest  in  its  plan,  of  the  mountain 
houses,  the  piazzas,  of  ample  width,  extending  the  entire 
length  of  the  building.  It  stands  upon  a  plain  2,000  feet  above 
sea  level.  A  small  lake  near  the  Notch  gate  is  the  source  of 
the  Saeo,  and  the  Ammonusuc  is  also  supplied  from  springs 
on  the  same  plain.  A.  T.  &  O.  F.  Barron  are  the  proprietors 
of  the  house,  and  C.  H.  Merrill,  Esq.,  their  popular  associate 
in  the  management.  This  is  the  house  naturally  chosen  by 
visitors  to  the  Notch,  being  located  at  the  very  gates,  and  is 
also  a  convenient  halting  place  for  those  passing  through  from 
North  Conway,  or  returning  to  that  point. 

Tourists  formerly  ascended  from  this  house  to  the  summit 
of  Mount  Washington  by  bridle  path,  but,  since  the  opening 
of  the  Mountain  Railway,  the  path  has  fallen  into  disuse  and 
is  out  of  repair.  The  house  is,  in  every  respect,  first-class  and 
accommodates  some  three  hundred  guests.  Near  to  the 
house"Itre 


•in«;s 


ning 
and 
and 
the 


ill 


110 


NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


I;  f 

i    '*' 

liii  i 


m'^ 


t  * 


GIBBS'  FALLS, 

SO  na.n)ed  for  a  former  Ismdlord  of  the  hotel.  They  are 
reached  by  a  walk  of  a  half  hour  from  the  hotel.  Here  the  brook 
makes  a  leap  of  nearly  forty  feet,  in  two  sheets  of  white  foam, 
separated  by  a  small  islet,  on  which  a  lone  pine  tree  stands 
guard.  A  succession  of  lesser  falls  on  the  same  stream  will 
tempt  you  to  further  exj)loration. 

beecher's  falls  cascade, 

only  about  a  half  mile  from  the  hotel,  is  upon  the  little 
mountain  brook  whic^h  flows  down  the  slope  to  the  right  of 
the  road,  reached  by  a  shaded  pathway.  In  one  of  the 
pools  of  this  stream  the  eminent  divine  whose  name  they 
bear  was  "immersed,"  not  intentionally,  but  like  other 
men,  he  "  fell."  He  describes  the  brook  as,  at  one  point, 
"  whirling  itself  into  a  plexus  of  cords,"  or  a  "pulsating  braid 
of  water."  For  more  than  a  fourth  of  a  mile,  the  stream 
sweeps  down  over  rocks  hung  with  moss,  and  through  chan- 
nels worn  in  beautiful  contour,  arched  with  green  leaves  and 
luxuriant  trees. 

The  location  of  the  house  is  on  a  fine  plateau,  and  a  pleas- 
ant grove  in  front  gives  ample  lounging  space,  if  you  are  dis- 
posed to  take  life  easy  and  avoid  the  fatigue  of  continual 
sight-seeing  and  climbing. 

THE  WHITE  MOUNTAIN  OR  "  CRAWFORD  "  NOTCH. 

Next  to  the  ascent  of  Mount  Washington,  and  previous  to 
that  if  you  do  not  return,  you  will  wish  to  explore  the  attrac- 
tions of  this  widely-famed  pass  in  the  mountains.  The  pecu- 
liar grandeur  of  this  vast  and  awful  gorge  cannot  be 
described  in  words,  and  the  artist  transmits  the  grand  out- 
lines but  imperfectly.  On  either  hand,  the  forbidding  line 
of  precipices  tower  above  you  in  imposing  grandeur,  and  you 
halt  and  turn  to  admire  its  savage  ruggedness.  It  extends 
for  a  distance  of  about  three  miles^ running  from  northwest 
to  southeast. 

The  "Gate  of  the  Notch"  is  in  the  near  vicinity  of  the 
Crawford  House,and  is  a  chasm  between  pci*pendicular  rocks, 
distant  from  each  other  but  22  feet;  the  diminutive  stream 


NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


Ill 


flowing  at  one  side  is  the  commencement  of  the  Saco  River, 
which  runs  with  rapid  course  and  increasing  volume  through 
the  fairest  of  valleys  to  the  sea. 

Riding  down  the  Notch  from  the  Crawford  House,  througli 
the  •*  gates,"  you  pass  within  the  wild  gorge,  and  if  you  have 
a  guide  or  companion  versed  in  the  localities  of  the  great 
ravine,  your  eye  and  mind  will  be  intent  upon  a  series  of 
views  and  objects,  of  which  it  were  foolish  to  attempt  minute 
description  other  than  by  name  and  general  outline.  Just 
before  entering  the  "gates  "  a  path  diverges  to  the  left,  lead- 
ing to  "  The  Elephant's  Head. 

"  Pulpit  Rock  "  is  a  great  overhanging  column  of  stone,  the 
form  of  which  is  best  indicated  by  its  name,  a  bold  buttress  or 
column. 

The  "Baby,"  the  "Young  man  of  the  Mountain"  and 
the  "  Grandmother  "  will  be  pointed  out,  figures  more  or 
less  distinct,  formed  by  jutting  masses  of  rock  on  the  ragged 
walls.  The  *  'gates,"  at  the  entrance,  are  but  22  feet  in  width, 
and  "  Sentinel  Rock  "  stands  guard  near  the  entrance.  It  is 
to  be  regretted  that  the  line  of  the  Portland  &  Ogdensburg 
Railroad, now  being  graded  through  the  Notch,necessitates  the 
destruction  of  some  of  these  curious  outlines  and  destroys  the 
natural  wildness  of  the  "  Gates."  The  "  Ojd  Maid "  is  a 
most  venerable  specimen  of  the  anxious  and  aimless  class, 
while  the  "African  Face"  is  of  unmistakable  Ethiopian 
outline,  high  up  on  a  spur  of  Mount  Willard  to  the  right,  as 
you  ride  down  the  Notch  from  the  Crawford  House.  At  a 
bend  in  the  road,  nearly  a  mile  from  the  gateway,  is  one  of 
the  most  impressive  scenes  in  the  Notch,  where  the  gi-eat  out- 
lines of  Mounts  Webster,  Wiiley  and  Willard  crowd  in  con- 
centrated sweeping  lines  upon  the  narrow  way.  Further  '  k, 
at  the  Wiiley  House,  the  pass  is  more  open  and  the  long  range 
of  walls  on  either  hand  have  more  of  regularity,  and  the  gorge 
is  more  open. 

THE  WILLEY  HOUSE. 

This  house  is  located  under  the  steep  acclivity  of  Mount 
Wiiley,  which   rises  some  2,C00  feet  behind  the  house,  and 


Hi 


m 


mt 


im 

h 

jt 

■p. 

i  J 

'X' 

112 


NORTHERN    PLEASURE   TRAVEL. 


opposite  is  ilic  forbidding  front  of  Mount  Webster,  t\w  littlo 
Saco  rivor  flowing  near  by.  The  kind  and  liospitaldo  Samiiol 
Willey,  Jr.,  lived  here  at  tiie  time  of  tlio  great  ealamity. 

On  the  night  of  Monday,  tiie  28th  of  August,  18'20,  oecurrod 
that  terrible  storm  whieh  fed  the  mountain  branches  of  the 
Saco  and  the  Ammonusuc,  and  changed  the  limpid  curnMit 
from  a  gentle  running  stream  to  a  m  id  rush  of  whirling 
waters,  breaking  old  bounds  and  roaring  in  lawless  torrents, 
freighted  with  the  loosened  soil  and  trees  swept  from  !tlio 
steep  sides  of  the  overhanging  hills;  during  this  terrible 
night  the  tragic  disaster  of  the  Willey  House  occurred;  the 
house  itself  received  no  injury,  but  the  frightencMl  inmates 
who  sought  safety  by  flight  from  the  ma  I  fury  of  the  crashing 
slides,  were  found  buried  in  the  debris  below.  The  faithful 
house  dog,  escaping  unhurt,  appeared  at  Conway,  and  ])y  all 
the  resources  of  brute  intellect,  sought  to  give  tiilings  of  the 
calamity,  failing  in  which  he  disapj)eared  at  the  top  of  his 
speod,and  afterwards,  though  occasionally  seen,  was  missing. 
The  father,  mother,  five  children,  and  two  hired  mori 
perished;  the  bodies  of  two  sons  and  a  daughter  were  never 
found. 

The  burial  service  of  these  victims  of  tragic  death,  as  per- 
formed on  the  spot,  are  described  as  singularly  impressive. 
The  words  of  the  solemn  prayer  of  the  good  elder,  offered 
with  distinct  and  measured  utterance,  came  back  in  slow  and 
solemn  echoes  from  the  seamed  walls  of  the  circling  moun- 
tains. 

The  slopes  of  Mount  Willey  are  quite  bare,  having  only 
enough  of  soil  to  furnish  root-hold  for  the  scanty  crop  of 
dwarfed  birdies  that  somewhat  relieve  the  desolation  of  the 
scarred  walls. 

Riding  back  from  the  Willey  House  the  black  mouth  of  the 
**  Devil's  Den  "  is  seen  high  up  in  the  rocky  front  of  Mount 
Willard. 


DRIVE  TO  THE  SUMMIT  OP  MOUNT  WILLARD. 

This  safe  and  easy  shaded  ascent  of  ab^it  two  miles  may 
be  made  in  carriages  from  the  hotel,  or  without  difficulty  by 


NOKTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


113 


podostrians.  Emorginjij  from  the  forest  you  come  out  upon 
IX  level  plateau  on  the  very  verge  of  the  sheer  precipice,  going 
down  into  the  yawning  depth  of  the  Notch.  It  is  a  grand 
outlook — the  key  to  the  beauties  of  this  famed  mountain  pass, 
and,  if  viewed  under  favorable  lights,  you  linger  upon  the 
rooky  plateau,  lotli  to  lose  the  impression  of  the  actual 
scene — the  gi*and  outlines  of  the  gorge,  the  winding  road 
through  the  whole  extent,  the  famed  **  Willey  House,"  the 
track  of  slides  upon  the  bold  slopes  of  either  mountain,  and 
the  sparkling  line  of  the  mountain  brooks  leaping  in  gleam- 
ing and  sinuous  falls  down  the  fugged  walls ;  perhaps,  over  all, 
a  roof  of  clouds  lying  before  you  in  the  soft  sunlight, 

"  Through  which  the  Rainmits  tower 
Like  to  p  iliicei  of  spur 
Built  on  a  aea  of  pearl." 

The  stillness  of  the  gi*eat  height  and  the  gi'and  sublimity 
of  the  landscape  can  but  impress  the  beholdo^  with  admira- 
tion and  awe.  It  seems  possible  to  throw  a  stone  upon  the  roof 
of  the  Willey  House,  so  deceptive  is  the  disbince.  From  this 
point  you  look  also  upon  the  "  Flume  and  Silver  Cascades," 
and  down  the  grand  line  of  marshaled  summits  which  en- 
close this  wild  pass  in  the  direction  of  North  Conway. 

THE  FLUME, 

a  brook  pouring  through  the  worn  chasm  or  rent  in  the  solid 
rock,  on  the  side  of  Mount  Webster,  is  noted  as  one  of  the 
beauties  of  the  Notch,leaping  through  the  curious  zigzag  chan- 
nel of  stone  in  noisy  and  picturesque  disturbance  on  its  way 
to  join  the  waters  of  the  fair  Saco. 

THE  SILVER  CASCADE, 

above  the  Flume,  and  a  sort  of  continuation  of  the  same, 
slides  down  the  mountain  side  for  a  mile,  in  windings,  leap- 
ings  and  turnings  innumerable;  now  in  a  broad  sheet  of 
whitened  foam,  again  divided  in  several  streams,  narrowing 
to  a  swift  current  through  the  worn  and  narrow  channel. 
The  view  from  the  rude  bridge,  or  from  a  point  at  the  base  of 
the  fall,"  is  of  unrivalled  interest  and  beauty,  and  from  all 


114 


NORTHERN   PLEASURE   TRAVEL. 


<  l!il 


The  Silver  Cascade, 

points  this  mountain  cascade  is  one  of  the  attractions  by  no 
means  to  be  passed  by.  Yon  will  linger  by  its  whitened  tor- 
rent with  increasing  admiration.  Parties  from  the  Crawford 
House  can  visit  these  falls  at  a  very  trivial  expense. 

FALLS  ON  AVLANCIIE    BROOK. 

These  fails  are  about  six  miles  from  the  Crawford  Hons(N 
on  Mount  Willey,  ujpon  a  stream  which  flows  down  the  slope 
of  the  mountain,  near  the  track  of  the  memorable  land  slide, 
and  joins  the  Saco  below  the  Willey  House.  Following  this 
brook,  now  known  as  Ripley's  or  Avalanche  brook,  nearly 
two  miles  up  the  mountain,  a  grand  cascade  bursts  upon  the 
view,  falling  between  granite  walls  of  picturesque  forms  and 
wonderful  shaping.  The  commencement  of  these  falls  is  a 
succession  of  ro(;ky  steps  some  fifty  feet  wide,  contfnuing  in  a 


p«p»p 


House, 
he  slope 
n\  sliiU;, 
ing  this 
nearly 
ipon  the 
rms  Jinil 
falls  is  a 
ing  in  ii 


NORTHEUN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


115 


widening  incline,  broken  into  sweeping  curves,  through  the 
solid  rock  into  the  reservoir  at  the  foot.  These  falls  are  now 
christened  the  **  Sylvan  Glade  Cataract."  A  mile  further  up 
the  brook  is  a  lesser  series  of  falls  called  the  "  Spai  kling 
Cascade,"  worthy  of  a  visit. 

This  tour  of  the  Notch  including  the  ascent  of  Mount 
Willard,  should  by  no  means  be  omitted  in  your  mountain 
trip ;  the  lavish  display  of  wildness  and  bold  scenes  ar.d  out- 
lines calls  to  mind  the  lines  of  the  Yankee  rhymester— 

*'  Dame  Nature  once,  while  coating  well 
This  fiery  mass  o'er  which  we  dwell, 
Had  surplus  left  of  ends  and  outs, 
These  uiaases  rast  in  ruin  thrown 
By  streamlet  worn  and  moss  o'ergrown, 
In  winrowed  heaps  lie  hereabouts." 


r,i 


m 


CHAPTER  VII. 


From  Mount  Washington,  or  the  Crawford  House,  to 
North  Conway,  or  the  Glen  House. 


Leaving  the  level  plateau  at  the  Crawford  House,  and  en- 
tering at  the  **  Gates  of  the  Notch",  you  pass  by  gradual  de- 
scent and  rough  and  winding  roadway,  over  bridges  which 
span  the  rocky  channels  of  mountain  torrents,  with  the  cu- 
rious rock  figures  on  either  hand  upon  the  ragged  walls,  and 
the  bold  outlines  of  the  grand  pass  to  the  front  and  rear. 

Passing  the  famed  Willey  House,  the  tragic  story  of  which 
was  briefly  told  in  the  preceding  chapter,  and  the  graves  of 
the  unfortunate  inmates  who  perished  here  on  that  fearful 
night,  and  continuing  down  the  Notch,  from  the  Willey 
House,  you  emerge  from  its  gloom  and  grandeur  and  pass 
through  enclosing  forests  in  a  southeasterly  direction,  the 
towering  masses  of  the  Giants' Stairs  (3,500  ft.)  Mt.  Resolu- 
tion and  Mt.  Crawford  (3,400  and  3,200  ft.  respective  eleva- 
tions) loom  up  to  the  left ;  the  Saco,  swelled  by  many  moun- 
tain streams  and  greatly  increased  in  volume  since  you  lis- 
tened to  its  noisy  but  invisible  flow  among  the  rocks  at  the 
Notch  entrance,  flows  by  the  roadway. 

The  old  Mount  Crawford  House  is  next  reached,  once  an 
important  rendezvous  for  tourists,  hunters  and  anglers,  now 
kept  as  a  boarding  house.  Mount  Washington  is  sometimes 
ascended  from  this  point  by  a  route  not  of  late  much  patron- 
ized, but  ottering  great  attractions  to  the  genuine  lover  of  na- 
ture. This  spot  is  of  interest  as  being  the  former  residence 
of  old  Abel  Crawford,  and  is  six  miles  distant  from  the  Willey 


II  !l 


1 


NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


117 


House.  The  amount  of  teaming  past  this  place  through  the 
Notch  in  the  early  days,  before  the  day  of  railroads,  was  im- 
mense ;  an'old  resident  tells  of  counting  for  a  single  day  the 
teams  passing  from  above  and  below  at  this  point,  reaching 
the  number  of  three  hundred,  only  two  or  three  of  which 
were  single  teams. 

About  a  half  mile  further  on  is  Nancy's  Brook,  from  its 
associations,  a  place  of  sad  interest.  It  was  here  in  1778  that 
an  unfortunate  girl,  deserted  by  her  lover,  perished  from  ex- 
posure, in  the  vain  attempt  to  overtake  the  recreant  deserter 
by  a  foot  journey  through  this,  then,  almost  impassable  route. 
A  stone,  known  as  *'  Nancy's  Rock"  is  pointed  out  as  a  mark 
of  the  tragedy.  Further  on  is  a  great  bend  in  the  road  and 
river  around  Hart's  Ledge  where  Sawyer's  river  is  crossed. 

harts'  location 

is  the  present  terminus  of  the  Portland  and  Ogdensburg 
Riiilroad,  now  building  through  the  notch,  and  stages  from 
the  Fabyan  house  and  Mt.  Washington  Railway  connect 
here  with  trains  to  and  from  Portland  and  the  east. 

From  this  point  to  Bartlett  the  valley  of  the  Saco  is  closely 
followed,  in  an  easterly  direction,  and 

sawyer's  rock, 

at  Upper  Bartlett  is  passed.  One  Nash,  the  discoverer  of  the 
puss  known  as  the  Notch,  was  associated  with  Sawyer  in  the 
first  transportation  of  a  horse  through  the  rough  gorge — then 
a  work  of  difficulty.  When  the  last  obstruction  was  over- 
come, their  emptied  rum  bottle  was  dashed  against  this  high 
rock,  and  Sawyer's  Rock  has  been  the  name  it  has  since 
borne.  Sawyer's  River  is  the  small  stream  here  crossed. 
The  building  of  the  road  through  to  the  Notch  was  an  under- 
taking of  gi-eat  importance,  in  the  days  when  it  was  attempt- 
ed, with  the  limited  means  for  caiTying  out  the  project. 
From  this  point  the  way  is  still  along  the  valley  of  the  Saco 
and  passes  the  neat  little  **  Chapel  of  the  Hills'*  upon  the 
right,  a  tasty  building  erected  by  summer  residents.  The 
three  peaks  of  Mt.  Can'igan  (4,800  feet,  highest  elevation) 
a  bold  mass  of  peaks  little  known  in  descriptive  works,  be- 


m! 


if'! 


I 


118 


NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


ing  outside  of  all  usual  routes  of  travel,  loom  up  to  the  right 
and  rear.  Stanton  Mountain  and  the  WhUe  Ledge  are  promi- 
nent to  the  left,  and 

BARTLETT 

is  reached — a  scattered  settlement  lying  along  the  valley  of 
the  Saco.  The  Bartlett  House  is  the  half  way  or  halting  sta- 
tion on  the  route  from  the  Crawford  to  the  Glen  Hous6,  dis- 
tant 15  miles  from  the  former,  and  20  miles  from  the  latter. 
From  this  village  the  tourist  may  pass  directly  on  to  North 
Conway,  with  charming  views  of  the  famed  Conway  Inter- 
vals and  the  grand  and  massive  pyramidal  mass  of  Mt.  Fe- 
quaket  or  Kiarsarge  before  you,  crossing  the  east  branch  of  the 
Saco  near  the  Interval  House.  Of  this  beautiful  village — the 
key  to  the  mountain  region,  when  approached  from  the  east, 
see  chapter  on  "  North  Conway  and  surroundings." 

TO  THE  GLEN. 

A  large  number  will  diverge  at  Bartlett  and  continue  the 
regular  route  to  the  Glen  House,  along  the  valley  of  the  Ellis 
River,  through  Pinkham  Notch. 

GOODRICH  FALLS, 

upon  the  Ellis  River,  will  be  the  first  feature  of  promin- 
ence to  attract  your  attention ;  this  is  the  heaviest  fall  in  the 
mountains  in  perpendicular  descent.  From  the  old  bridge  in 
front  of  the  fall  a  good  view  may  be  obtained,  also  from  the 
shore  below,  and  from  the  rocks  on  the  right  bank. 

Continuing  northward  you  will  ei^joy  grand  surprises  as 
the  massive  ridges  of  the  White  Mountain  range  burst  occas- 
ionally into  view. 

THE  TOWN  OP  JACKSON, 

a  mile  beyond  the  falls,  is  noted  for  the  value  and  variety  of 
the  minerals  there  found. 

Iron  Mountain  is  nearly  3,000  feet  high,  and  with  Thorn 
Mountain  is  rich  in  veins  of  iron  ore.  Tin  (the  first  found  in 
the  United  S'  ss,)  and  copper  ores  are  also  found,  with  other 
valuable  minerals.  On  the  way  from  Goodrich  Falls,  Jack- 
son  Falls  and  the  Jackson  Falls  House  are  passed  before 
reaching  the  rural 


NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


119 


e  right 
promi- 


illey  of 
ng  sta- 
je,  dis- 
Latter. 
North 
Inter- 
Vit.  Pe- 
h of the 
ge — the 
le  east, 


nue  the 
he  Ellis 


3romm- 
11  in  the 
ridge  in 
rom  the 

rises  as 
it  occas- 


iriety  of 

Thorn 
bund  in 
th  other 
Is,  Jack- 

before 


JACKSON  CITY, 

a  city  only  in  name;  and  sweeping  around  the  base  of 
Eagle  Mountain  and  climbing  through  thick  forests  continue 
on  through  the  desolation  of 

PINKHAM  NOTCH, 

or  Pinkham  Pass,  which  takes  its  name  from  the  family  of 
early  settlers  of  that  name  who,  in  April  1790,  tenanted  a 
log  house,  previously  erected,  which  they  found  buried  in 
the  deep  snows  of  that  inclement  season.  The  ingenuity  of 
one  of  the  boys  in  harnessing  the  pig  (their  only  live  stock) , 
to  the  hand-sled,  containing  the  entire  outfit  of  the  family,  is 
narrated  by  Willey  in  his  *'  Incidents  of  White  Mountain 
History;"  he  also  relates  the  incidents  of  the  fearful  tornado 
of  1821,  which  swept  the  town. 

Passing  the  ways  leading  from  the  road  to  Glen  Ellis  Falls 
and  the  Crystal  cascade,  which  we  shall  visit  from  the  Glen 
House,  by  the  contiguous  sources  of  the  Ellis  and  Peabody 
Kivers,  and  along  the  increasing  and  musical  line  of  the  lat- 
ter stream.  Mount  Carter  being  occasionally  seen  to  the  right, 
yon  ride  through  forests,  charmingly  festooned  with  mosses, 
cross  the  bridge  on  the  Peabody  River,  pass  the  carriage 
road  to  Mount  Washington  to  the  left,  and  ascend  to  the  hos- 
pitable shelter  and  enjoyment  of  the  startling  views  so  pecu- 
liar to  the  location  of  the 

GLEN  HOUSE, 

W.  &  C.  R.  MiLLiKEN,  proprietors.  This  house  is  situated 
within  the  vast  hollow,  bounded  by  a  rim  of  mountain  peaks, 
and  more  than  1,600  feet  above  sea  level.  Mount  Wash- 
ington is  in  view  from  its  grounds.  Adams,  Jefferson,  Clay, 
and  Madison  circle  away  to  the  northeast  in  impressive  grand- 
eur, seamed  with  the  scars  of  terriffic  slides  and  desolating 
torrents.  Mount  Adams  appears,  from  this  point,  the  high- 
est, but  less  burly  and  mjyestic  than  Washington. 

Mount  Carter  is  in  the  rear  of  the  Glen  House,  and  from 
its  side  the  tourist  who  takes  the  trouble  to  climb  through 
the  forests  to  a  favorite  point  of  view,  will  gain  an  unob- 
structed outlook  upon  the  five  great  peaks  of  the  mountain 


120 


NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


CO 

O 


h9 


range  fi-om  Washington  northward — Chiy,  Jeflfersoh,  Adams 
and  Madison.  The  traveler  who  makes  his  stay  at  this  house 
for  a  time,  will  be  at  no  loss  for  lack  of  the  wonderful  and  the 
beautiful  to  excite  and  charm  away  the  hours.  The  house 
itself  is  one  of  the  largest  and  most  commodious  «in  the 
mountains,  in  appearance  like  two  buildings,  connected  by  a 
central  one,  giving  a  long'  front  of  piazza,  and  overlooking 
the  Peabody  River  and  the  great  mountain  range.  Stage 
lines  connect  with  Eastern  Railway  trains  at  North  Conway 


NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


121 


and  "with  Portland  and  Ogdenshnrg  Railroad  at  Nortli  Con- 
way and  Bartlett,  also  stage  line  through  Bartlett  to  Craw- 
ford House.  Autumnal  catarrh  and  hay  fever  are  unknown 
troubles  with  the  patrons  of  this  house. 

The  house  is  opened  June  12th,  for  visitors,  and  an  excel- 
lent band  of  music  is  in  attendance  for  promenading  and 
dancing  in  its  spacious  halls  in  the  pleasure  season. 

Visitors  to  the  Notch  may  ascend  to  the  summit  by  the 
can'iage  road,  and  descend  by  the  Mountain  Railway  to  the 
Fabyan  or  White  Mountain  House,  and  from  thence  to  the 
Crawford  House  at  the  Notch.  But  there  are  numerous 
objects  of  interest  in  and  around  the  Glen  which  will  be  visi- 
ted before  making  the  ascent. 

PEABODY  RIVER 

runs  in  front  of  the  hotel,  and  distant  about  a  mile.  On  the 
same  are  those  curious  proofs  of  the  effects  of  continued  ac- 
tion of  running  water  upon  solid  rock,  known  as  the  *'  Gar- 
net Pools,"  where  the  solid  gi*anite  bed  is  worn  for  some  dis- 
tance into  curious  and  peculiar  forms,  which  can  but  inter- 
est you. 

On  the  road  to  Conway,  over  which  you  have  come  from 
Bartlett,  a  more  leisurely  visit  will  enable  you  to  see  those 
curiosities  in  nature  which  so  greatly  add  to  the  attractions 
at  this  point. 

THE  EMERALD  POOL, 

nc.ir  the  roadway,  is  a  charming  reservoir  of  water  from  the 
river,  in  delightful  quiet,  and  should  not  be  omitted  in  the 
sights  of  the  region.    About  two  miles  from  the  hotel  are 

THOMPSON'S  FALLS, 

on  a  brook  of  no  great  rise,  leading  into  the  Peabody  River, 
extending  for  nearly  three-foiuths  of  a  mile  in  a  succession 
of  lovely,  broken  falls,  of  easy  descent,  without  presenting 
any  startling  features,  but  with  much  of  picturesque  beauty, 
and  the  climb  alo.ng  the  wild  stream  brings  you  to  points 
from  which  you  gain  glorious  mountain  views. 


k    !■ 


122 


I 


fill-' 


ill 


NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


CRYSTAL  CASCADE. 


These  cascades  are  reached  by  a  path  diverging  from  the 
road  about  throe  and  one-half  miles  south  of  the  hotel,  and 
leading  up  the  side  of  the  great  mountain;  following  this  for 
hklf  a  mile,  you  reach  the  top  of  a  jutting  spur  overhanging 
a  water-chiseled  chasm,  through  which  a  bright  stream  gur- 
gles with  hoarse  murmuring,  while,  from  far  up  on  the 
mountain  side,  the  crystal  cascade  comes  gliding  down; 
light,  feathery  and  white  as  the  snow,  come  the  pure  waters 
of  the  stream,  descending  from  the  side  of  Mount  Washing- 
ton, under  the  walls  of  Tuckerraan's  Ravine — a  long,  sheer 
descent  of  successive  leaps  and  turns. 

Tuckennctn's  Ravine  may  be  reached  by  following  this 
stream  from  the  Cascade  by  a  path  known  as  Thompson's  path, 
which  leaves  the  carriage  road  some  two  miles  from  the  base 
of  Mount  Washington,  but  is  perhaps  oftener  explored  by 
descending  into  it  from  the  summit.    This  long,  deep  ravine, 
in  the  southern  slope  of  the  mountain,  is  filled  to  great  depth 
by  the  accumulated  snows  of  winter;  the  summer  heats 
usually  dispel  the  immense  snow  bank  during  the  month  of 
August.    In  the  process  of  melting,  the  gradual  wear  of  the 
streams  sometimes  forms  a  grand  arch  of  snow,  of  magnifi- 
cent proportions,  and  worn  by  melting  processes  into  beauti- 
ful forms  and  outlines.    The  "Snow  Arch"  formed  by  the 
waters  from  "a  thousand  streams"  running  under  and  melt- 
ing the  snow  is  grand  in  the  extreme,  in  the  early  part  of 
August.    This  grand  ice  arch  sometimes  extends  for  two  or 
three  hundred  feet,  supported  by  ice  pillars  standing  on 
boulders  which  prevent  the  melting  of  the  column  of  ice 
resting  upon  them;    but  the  long  summer  eventually  tells 
upon  the  frigid  mass  and  the  ice-palace  vanishes  in  humid 
mists. 

GLEN  ELLIS  PALLS  ' 

are  about  four  miles  from  the  Glen  House-r-reached  by  tak- 
ing a  footpath  leading  from  the  main  road  through  a  pine 
thicket,  which  speedily  brings  you  to  the  brink  of  a  rocky 
precipice,  above  a  narrow  gorge  overhung* with  dark  masses 


NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL 


123 


of  foliage.  Descending  this  cliflf  by  the  irregular  natural 
steps  and  rude  artificial  helps,  you  reach  the  bottom  of  a 
dark  chasm  and  stand  upon  the  brink  of  a  foaming  caldron 
of  emerald  water,  and  glancing  upwards,  you  can  see  the 
stream  leaping  seventy  feet  at  a  single  bound  from  a  worn 
channel  of  the  rock.  The  scenery  around  this  water-fall 
combines  all  the  elements  of  beauty,  wildness  and  startling 
contrast,  which  the  most  romantic  could  expect  or  desire. 

FROM  THE  GLEN  HOUSE. 

This  is  still  a  favorite  way  of  scaling  the  side  of  the  central 
summit  of  the  mountains.  The  road  winds  along  the  moun- 
tain-side a  distance  of  eight  miles  from  the  hotel  to  the 
Mount  Wasliington  House,  and  is  both  safe  and  easy  of  as- 
cent. This  road  was  finished  in  1861,  after  six  years  of  la- 
bor, and  has  an  average  grade  of  little  less  than  one  foot  in 
eight,  from  which  it  varies  in  no  great  degree.  The  time  oc- 
cupied in  making  the  ascent  is  about  three  hours.  The  low- 
er half  of  the  journey  is  by  a  winding  way  through  forests, 
emerging  at  the  "  Ledge"  upon  the  bare  wall  of  the  moun- 
tain, and  winding  along  the  brink  of  the  Great  Gulf,  across 
which  you  look  upon  the  entire  slopes  of  Mounts  Jeflferson, 
Adams  and  Madison ;  and,  continuing  on,  it  overlooks  the 
Glen  and  the  valley  through  Pinkham  Pass,  and  up  the  val- 
ley of  the  Peabody  River  toward  Gorham. 

The  views  widen  and  increase  in  scope  and  gi'andeur  as 
you  approach  the  summit,  which  seems  to  develop  itself 
anew  as  you  continue  to  rise  over  successive  ridges.  There 
is  neither  danger  nor  inconvenience  in  this  way  of  ascent. 
Baggage  wagons  accompany  the  passenger  carriages, enabling 
parties  to  descend  on  the  other  side  by  railway  to  the  Fayban, 
White  Mountain,  Twin  Mountain  or  Crawford  House,  as 
their  inclination  may  lead. 

The  view  from  the  summit  has  been  previously  described, 
as  have  also  the  accommodations  for  a  night  among  the 
clouds,  or  a  longer  stay  if  you  are  enamored  with  the  novel 
experience  of  life  at  an  elevation  of  6,300  ft.  above  sea  level. 

Before  the  building  of  the  carriage  road  the  ascent  was  tire- 
some and  attended  with  danger.       * 


n  I 


124 


NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


Near  the  summit,  on  the  road,  is  the  Lizzie  Bourne  mon- 
ument, previously  noticed.  It  is  a  pyramid  of  rough  stones 
surmounted  by  a  slab.  Miss  Bourne  perished  from  exposure 
on  this  spot  in  1855.  In  company  with  two  male  relatives 
she  attempted  the  ascent  of  the  mountain  without  a  guide, 
and,  bewildered  and  chilled,  perished  from  exposure  in  the 
immediate  vicinity  of  the  summit  houses. 

We  have  again  brought  you  to  the  summit  and  again  leave 
you  to  choice  of  ways,  no  longer  wanting,  by  which  to  de- 
scend. While  at  the  Glen  House  many  will  wish  to  take  the 
pleasant  trip  to  Gorham,  on  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway,  in 
{he  Androscoggin  valley,  distant  from  the  Glen  some  eight 
miles.  Stages  from  the  Glen  Housp  connect  with  all  trains 
over  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway  at  this  point.  Going  north- 
ward from  Gorham.  those  wishing  to  make  the  circuit  of  the 
mountains,  or  to  visit  Franconia  and  the  western  side,  on 
their  return  may  take  the  Boston,  Concord  &  Montreal  trains 
at  Northumberland  and  return  southward  via  I^ancaster, 
Littleton,  and  Plymouth  and  Lake  Winnipisaukee. 


i:.^K::r      i\ 


CHAPTER  VIII. 


NORTH  CONWAY  AND  SURROUNDINGS. 


This  charming  village  is  reached  by  the  popular  boat, 
stage  and  rail  route  from  Weirs  across  fair  lake  Winnipe- 
SHukee  to  Centre  Harbor^  thence  by  the  picturesque  stage 
route  to  West  Ossipee  on  the  Great  "Falls  and  Conway  Rail- 
road and  thence  to  destination  by  rail :  giving  great  variety 
of  scenery  and  novelty  of  experience. 

HOTELS. 

Of  these  there  is  no  lack,  and  the  visitor  may  suit  his  taste 
as  to  locality  and  style  of  entertainment.  In  the  immediate 
vicinity  of  the  new  Eastern  Railroad  station  is  the  new,  large 
and  commodious  first  class  hotel,  the  Kia.ksa.kge  House, 
kept  by  Messrs.  Thompson,  Son  &  Andrews.  It  will  accom- 
modate three  hundred  guests,  and  is  built  and  furnished  on  a 
scale  of  liberality  which  is  sustained  in  the  details  of  manage- 
ment. The  building  is  lighted  with  gas,  and  the  nearness  to 
the  station  is  a  convenience  to  business  men. 

The  Interval  House,  kept  by  Mudgett  &  Son,  is  located 
under  the  slope  of  Mount  Pequaket,  or  Kiarsarge,  is  within 
a  beautiful  enclosure  of  hills  and  surrounded  by  attractive 
points,  easily  reached  by  short  walks  from  the  Hotel.  The 
buildings  are  comparatively  new,  and  it  will  be  found  to  be  a 
centre  of  attractions  for  those  who  tarry  at  this  point.  The 
Sunset  Pa.vilion,  by  Mason,  is  extensively  patronized,  and 
the  manager  and  employees  evidently  intend  that  there  shall 
be  no  lack  of  attention  on  their  part  to  the  wants  of  their 
patrons.    The  Mc  Millan  House  is  to  the  southward,  in  the 


I;.  ;.; 


126 


NORTHERN, PLEA8UKE  TRAVEL. 


t\ 


-r-^ 


direction  of  Artists*  Falls,  and  th(5  North  Conway  House, 
by  N.  R.  Mason,  the  Wasihnoton  House  and  the  Randall 
House  all  receive  extensive  patronage  in  the  summer  months. 
The  Mason  House  is  a  new  and  elegant  hotel,  complete  in 
its  furnishing,  kept  by  the  senior  Mason,  formerly  of  the  Sun- 
set Pavilion,  so  long  and  favorably  known  to  the  traveling 
public. 

The  Randall  House  is  a  commodious  and  well  furnished 
hotel,  kept  by  J.  T.  Randall,  Esq.,  well  known  to  frequent- 
ers of  this  fair  village  for  several  years.  Carriages  connect 
with  the  railroad  trains  from  all  the  hotels. 

This  romantic  village  is  the  centre  of  resort  in  the  Saoo 
valley,  and  the  key  to  the  mountain  region  from  the  south- 
east. The  village  lies  upon  a  plain  of  some  four  or  five 
miles  long  by  three  wide,  overlooking  the  intervales  of  the 
Saco,  which  is  here  a  stream  of  several  rods  in  width,  forda- 
ble  in  many  places  and  flowing  over  a  bed  of  the  purest 
stones  and  pebbles,  worn  and  washed  to  smoothness  and 
whiteness  by  the  pure  waters.  The  stream  is  liable  to  rapid 
rising  at  times,  to  the  great  danger  of  those  having  property 
upon  its  banks ;  at  the  time  of  the  Willey  disaster  it  rose 
twenty-four  feet  in  a  single  night. 

The  smiling  intervales  or  meadows  are  noted  for  their 
beauty,  and  the  distant  view  of  the  giant  peaks  of  the  White 
Mountains  to  the  northward,  looking  up  the  Saco  valley,  is 
considered  one  of  the  finest  in  the  State,  the  distance  soften- 
ing all  harsh  and  rugged  outlines  into  beautiful  curves  and 
combinations. 

To  the  northeast  of  the  village, 

PEQUAKET, 

or  Kiarsarge  Mountain  rises,  a  lone,  swelling  sumn.  sym- 
metrical in  outline,  surmounted  by  the  hotel  clamped  U>  th 
rocks  of  the  very  summit.  The  elevation  is  3,367  feet,  and  ii 
stands  like  an  immovable  sentinel  upon  the  outpost  of  the 
grim  host  of  hills.  The  ascent  can  be  made  with  horses,  or  by 
pedestrians,  without  difficulty,  to  the  very  summit.  From  this 
highest  southern  elevation  there  is  a  magnificent  view  of  the 


NORTHERN   PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


127 


syni- 
l  loth 
,  antl  it 
of  the 
IS,  or  by 
•om  this 
v  of  the 


whole  army  of  hills  to  the  north  and  west,  including  the 
whole  White  Mountain  Range,  and  of  the  graind  central 
dome.  Mount  Washington,  and  Mount  Lafayette,  of  the 
Franconia  gi'oup.  The  fair  valley  of  the  Saco  can  be  follow- 
ed from  near  its  source  in  the  mountain  fastness  far  on  its 
course  to  the  sea.  To  the  east  lie  the  reaches  of  level  coun- 
try in  Maine  and  the  waters  of  fair  Sebago  and' the  lesser  lakes. 

There  is  a  range  of  rugged  hills  to  the  east  called  '*  Rattle- 
snake Ridge,"  and  **  Mote  Mountain"  to  the  southwest,  with 
the  sharp  pyramids  of  old  Chucorua  in  the  same  direction, 
but  in  the  far  distance. 

Starr  King  says  **  we  have  seen  no  other  region  of  New 
England  so  swathed  in  dreamy  charm," — that  at  times  "  the 
spiritual  heights,  from  which  nature  issues,  unseal  their  op- 
ulence, and  send  the  freshet  of  bloom — times  when  the  finer 
•  light  in  light'  will  break  its  bounds,  and  the  whole  valley, 
will  turn  into  a  goblet  brimming  with  beauty  too  liberal  to 
be  contained  by  the  mountain  walls  that  are  tinted  with  its 
weird  waves." 

THE  LEDGES, 

upon  the  face  of  Mote  Mountain,  rise  almost  perpendicularly 
in  !i  rocky  face  of  several  miles  extent,  reaching  at  some 
points  a  height  of  eight  hundred  feet.  In  the  ride  to  these 
ledges,  from  the  village,  by  the  road,  through  the  fields  and 
j)lains,  the  sparkling  waters  of  the  Saco  are  twice  forded. 

ECHO  LAKE 

is  a  gem  among  the  mountain  lakes,  unruffled  by  the  slightest 
breeze,  sleeping  beneath  the  rocky  walls  and  reflecting  the 
Ix'ld  outline  of  overhanging  cliffs.  The  blast  of  a  horn  and 
the  sound  of  the  voice  are  clearly  and  sharply  echoed  from 
the  clifts,  sometimes,  with  a  slight  re-echo,  but  wanting 
the  resounding  repetition  of  the  like  named  wonder  at  Fran- 
conia. 

THE  CATHEDRAL. 

In  the  wall  of  the  great  ledges,  next  visited,  is  a  cave  of  for- 
ty feet  in  depth  by  some  sixty  feet  in  height ;  you  stand 
within  it,  as  within  a  wide,  rough  granite  alcove  in  the  face 


*my 


Sir  . 


ill 


titi 


m 


-t.. 


128 


NORTHERN    PLEASURE  THAVEL. 


of  the  wall,  the  forest  trees  stsmding  in  audience  before  you 
ami  shading  the  light  which  falls  within.  Along  the  seamed 
walls  the  work  of  the  silent  forces  of  the  frost  are  seen  at  the 
base ;  great  (lakes  and  blocks  pried  off  the  granite  face  of 
the  walls  by  freezing  wedges  of  ice,  lie  in  confusion,  and  oth- 
ers seem  hanging  only  by  the  slightest  hold,  which  the  next 
frost  wedge  will  loosen  and  hurl  below. 

devil's  den. 

In  the  debris  at  the  foot  of  the  ledge,  not  far  from  the  Ca- 
thedral, formed  by  a  huge  scale  of  granite,  sliding  over  a 
mass  of  loose  blocks,  is  the  "  Devil's  Den,"  an  enclosed  space 
in  the  fallen  mass  entered  by  creeping  through  a  tortuous 
passage.  By  lighting  a  fire  in  this  cave  you  can  take  a  lunch  ^ 
with  no  fear  of  disturbance  from  his  Satanic  majesty,  and  to 
the  gi'eat  delight  of  the  juveniles. 

Thompson's  Falls  must  not  be  forgotten  in  the  visit,  and 

DIANA'S  BATHS 

are  another  wonder  which  should  be  seen  by  all.  Another 
way,  through  pastures  and  forests,  and  you  reach  a  small 
mill,  above  which  the  stream  from  the  forest  flows  over  a  bed 
of  the  whitest  granite,  flecked  with  crystals.  Ordinarily  the 
flow  of  water  is  not  large,  but  the  solid  granite  bed  is  worn 
in  every  conceivable  form,  dropping  in  steps  at  irregular  in- 
tervals, and  filled  with  wells  worn  in  the  solid  surface  by 
whirling  eddies  and  revolving  boulders,  seamed  by  the  switt 
and  continual  flow  of  ceaseless  currents  into  curious  and  fan- 
tastic grooves.  Un!'  ss  swollen  by  unusual  rains  you  need 
not  look  for  startling  or  overwhelming  features ;  but  for  curi- 
ous and  beautiful  combinations  it  is  worthy  of  a  visit,  and 
will  impress  itself  indelibly  on  the  memory. 

artist's  falls. 

These  charming  falls  are  to  the  south  of  the  village,  in  a 
picturesque  and  shaded  place,  and  are  widely  known  in  prints 
and  pljotographic  representations.  All  will  wish  to  look  upon 
the  beautiful  fall  among  the  wild  combination  of  rocks  and 
shading  trees ;  but  here,  as  in  nearly  all  the  charms  around 
North  Conway,  look  rather  for  quiet  loveliness  than  for  tlie 


NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


129 


overpowering  and  forbidding  aspects  presented  in  the  imme- 
diate vicinity  of  the  mountains. 

DRIVES. 

Though  you  may  remain  for  weeks  at  North  Conway,  you 
may  have  a  new  drive  or  walk  of  absorbing  interest  each  day 
of  your  stay.  Excursions  to  Chucorua  Lake  and  Gould's 
Pond,  to  Conway  Corner,  to  Fryeburg,  once  a  very  important 
village,  built  on  a  broad  plain  within  a  wide  sweep  of  the 
S:ico,  aro  often  made.  Near  by  is  Lovewell's  Pond,  with 
tiiickly  wooded  shores,  near  which  was  fought  that  desperate 
b.vttle  with  the  Indians,  so  terrible  in  the  slaughter  of  both 
the  whites  and  savages— one  of  the  most  fierce  and  obstinate 
of  the  encounters  with  the  Pe^uaket  Indians.  The  com- 
mand "^r,  Capt.  LovewoU,  and  more  than  a  quarter  of  the 
whole  white  force,  fell  at  tlio  first  onset,  but  the  fight  con- 
tinued for  ten  hours,  when  the  savages  retired.  An  excursion 
to  Jackson  and  the  Cascades,  on  the  branch  of  the  Ellis  Riv- 
er, should  not  be  omitted. 

CHUCORUA. 

That  "  rocky  m  iss  of  bare  granite  spires  and  shafts,"  the 
shirpest  pinnacle   of  the  entire  region,  excepting  M)unt 
Adams,  reaches  an  elevation  of  3,360  feet.    The  scaling  of  its 
upright  ledges  is  esteemed  a  test  of  courage  and  strength.    It 
-   may  be  reached  from  Conway. 

The  Bearcamp  River  II)use,  at  West  Ossipee,  a  favorite 
point  of  departure  under  its  former  management,  will  be  sus- 
tained and  improved  by*the  pre'.ont  proprietors.  A  fine  view 
of  the  mountain  and  the  surrounding  country  is  had  from  this 
point,  and  teams  are  furnishe  I  for  excursionists,  sportsmen 
ami  others.  J.  H.  Plumraer,  Ilsq.,  is  the  present  proprietor. 
It  is  a  cosy  and  delightful  loitering  place. 

CONWAY.  N.  H. 

This  quiet  valley  town,  on  the  banks  of  the  S  ico,  though 
forgotten  and  overshadowed  by  the  places  of  more  general 
resort,  has  great  charms  for  those  who  have  learned  to  enjoy 
it8  quiet  and  the  beauty  of  the  surrounding  landscape.    The 


1, 


i'    i . 


■iU 


I 


J  ^ 


130 


NORTHERN   PLEASURE  TRAVEL 


Conway  House,  L.  H.  Eastman  proprietor,  is  one  of  the  larg- 
est and  best  of  the  hotels  of  this  region,  providing  for  guests 
all  substantial  comforts.  The  livery  stable  is  one  of  the  best 
connected  with  any  of  the  country  hotels.  Patrons  are  taken 
to  all  points  of  interest  in  the  mountain  region,  and  the  many 
drives  are  unsurpassed  in  their  attractions.  Anglers  find  this 
a  favorite  place  at  which  to  spend  a  few  days  or  weeks.  The 
Fequaket  House  is  a  smaller  but  commodious  and  well  kept 
hotel. 


CHAPTER  IX. 


AROUND  GORHAM. 


i  ? 


The  Androscoggin  valley  and  the  hills  that  enclose  it,  with 
the  noble  outlook  from  neighboring  elevations,  make  a  visit 
there  a  pleasure  to  live  in  memory,  and  Gorham  is  the  point 
where  the  tourist  naturally  tarries. 

Mount  Garter,  Mount  Moriah,  and  the  lesser  and  central 
"  Imp,"  are  three  prominent  features  in  the  landscape  to  the 
south ;  the  first  5,000  feet  in  height,  the  second  4,700  feet,  and 
the  three  forming  the  eastern  slope  of  the  Glen.  The  outline 
of  Mount  Moriah  is  a  series  of  curves  and  flowing  lines, 
softened  by  the  luxuriant  forests  which  clothe  its  waving 
slopes.  Mount  Cai*ter  is  rugged,  scarred  and  seamed,  in  the 
long  slope  which  it  presents  to  vie^'  at  this  point. 

RANDOLPH     TXL, 

five  miles  fh>m  the  village,  is  an  elevation  from  which  the 
finest  imaginable  view  of  the  surrounding  mountains  may  be 
had,  and  is  a  favorable  point  from  which  to  study  the  rare 
combinations  of  the  wild  and  rugged  landscape. 

THS  PILOT  HILLS, 

to  the  northwest,  are  grand  in  outline,  and  in  a  deep  cleft  of 
the  range  the  ice  and  snow,  among  the  immense  granite 
blocks  in  th^  cold  shadows  of  the  ravine,  defy  the  extreme 
heat  of  the  warmest  lommer.  The  Androscoggin  Hills  lie 
along  to  the  eastward.  The  noble  outline  of  Mount  Hayes  to 
the  northeast  being  the  most  prominent  peak. 


182 


NORTHERN   PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


DRIVES. 


A  stay  of  a  few  days  at  this  point  enables  the  tourist  to  en- 
joy the  fine  drives  in  this  vicinity.  The  drive  to  the  Lead 
Mine  Bridge,  four  miles  from  the  village,  near  the  abandoned 
lead  mine,  and  noted  as  a  favorable  site  from  which  to  view 
the  valley  of  the  Androscoggin,  with  its  chain  of  green  isles 
and  background  of  noble  mountains,  arid  the ;  great  White 
Mountains,  robbed  by  the  distance  of  their  forbidding  aspects, 
but  standing  out  in  noble  outline  in  the  vast  picture  here  pre- 
sented. There  is  also  the  drive  to  Shelburne,  six  miles  be- 
low, and  the  view  from  Bald  Cap  Mountain;  to  Berlin  Falls, 
six  miles  above  the  village — a  series  of  rapids,  where,  for 
nearly  a  mile,  the  Androscoggin  sweeps  in  a  long,  rapid  de- 
scent, much  admired  for  its  wild  beauty  and  fascinating 
power. 

ASCENT  OF  MOUNTAIN  SUMMITS. 

The  climbing  of  Mount  Surprise  (1,200  feet  elevation,)  by 
bridle-path  requires  no  undue  exertions,  and  the  view  com- 
mands an  unobstructed  sight  of  the  great  mountain  range, 
and  looks  directly  upon  the  wildest  and  most  rugged  scenery 
of  the  hills  and  the  Androscoggin  valley.  ""  No  summit  so 
easily  reached  commands  so  wide  and  charming  a  view  as 
this.  Mount  Hayes  (so  named  in  honor  of  a  former  landlady 
of  the  Alpine  House,)  may  also  be  ascended  by  bridle-path, 
affording  a  view  in  which  Mount  Washington  stands  out  in 
all  its  m^yesty  and  grandeur,  and  the  winding  valley  of  the 
Androscoggin,  with  its  clean  banks,  many  islands  and  noble 
enclosing  hills,  is  seen  for  a  score  of  miles. 

Mount  Moriah  may  be  now  ascended  by  footpath.  From 
this  summit  of  4,700  feet  elevation,  reached  by  a  path  throui;h 
thick  forests  and  over  bare  ledges  of  the  mountain  side,  the 
outlook  is  upon  the  sea  of  summits  in  a  circle  broken  only 
upon  the  southwest  by  the  open  country  of  Maine. 

*     FROM  OORHAM  TO  THE  NOTCH. 

'  *rhe  route  to  the  Notch  from  Gorham  by  the  Cherry  Moun- 
tain road,  a  distance  of  thirty-two  miles,  affords  a  series  of 
glorious  views  during  the  entire  journey,  enabling  the  trav- 


i '!, 


NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


133 


eler  to  avail  himself  of  the  extensive  prospect  from  Randolph 
Hill,  before  mentioned,  and  a  changing  succession  of  pano- 
ramic pictures  of  the  great  range  seen  from  this  northern 
line  of  travel ;  especially  is  the  view  from  the  road  in  Jeft'er- 
son  one  to  be  forever  remembered,  sweeping,  as  it  does,  a 
wide  line  of  summits  standing  in  a  vast  arc  of  circling  maj- 
esty. At  the  point  where  the  Waumbek  House  is  located,  at 
the  base  of  Starr  King  Mountain  (3,800  feet  elevation)  the 
finest  view  is  had.  At  this  house  many  halt  for  dinner,  and 
for  the  enjoyment  of  the  view  from  its  piazzas.  A  path  leads 
up  the  mountain  from  this  house,  and  a  prolonged  stay  can- 
not fail  to  be  a  pleasant  one.  In  the  valley  fronting  the  hotel 
is  the  peculiar  mound,  sometimes  called  the  "  Sleeping  Gi- 
ant," from  a  seeming  resemblance  to  a  giant  human  form 
lying  upon  his  back.  To  the  southwest,  in  clear  weather. 
Mount  Washington  and  the  attendant  peaks  appear  to  be  in 
near  proximity.  The  Franconia  range  is  to  the  west,  and  the 
Pilot  Mountains  to  the  north.  This  house  is  distant  17  miles 
from  the  Notch,  13  miles  from  the  Fabyan  Place,  and  28  miles 
from  the  Profile.  The  route  from  this  point  to  the  Profile 
House  is  through  the  growing  and  enterprising  town  of  White- 
field,  and  over  the  hills  of  Bethlehem.  The  road  to  the 
Crawford  House  or  the  Fabyan  House  is  along  the  valley 
towards  the  source  of  Israel's  River,  and  the  valley  of  the 
Ammonusuc,  passing  through  the  town  of  Carroll  and  along 
tile  base  of  Cherry  Mountain  (3,219  feet  elevation),  beauti- 
fully wooded  to  the  summit,  with  the  peak  of  **  Owl's  Head  " 
at  its  northern  extremity. 


I. 


CHAPTER  X. 


HISTORICAL  AND  DESCRIPTIVE. 


In  sober  matter-of-fact  New  England,  the  wild  region  of 
the  mountains  is  peculiarly  bare  of  that  historical  interest 
and  legendary  lore  which  has  given  to  every  crag  and  ravine 
of  Scotland  and  Switzerland  a  name  and  fame  in  romance 
and  story;  the  names,  even,  of  the  grandest  peaks  and 
gorges,  excepting  the  few  musical  ones  of  Indian  origin,  lack 
the  merest  suggestion  of  romantic  beauty. 

One  Darby  Field  appears  to  have  been  the  first  white  man 
who  looked  from  the  highest  summit  upon  the  wild  and  rug- 
ged country  below.  His  story,  like  that  of  most  early  dis- 
coverers, was  garnished  with  accounts  of  shining  stones  and 
riches  in  prospect.  Vines  und  Gorges,  magistrates  of  Sir 
Fernando  Gorges,  went  thither  in  the  fall  of  the  same  year, 
(1642),  ascending  the  Saco  in  canoes;  they  appear  to  have 
climbed  one  of  the  highest  summits  and  made  report  not  re- 
m.'irkable  for  accuracy.  An  early  chronicler  has  described 
the  country  to  the  north  of  the  principal  summit  as  "  daunt- 
ing terrible,  being  full  of  rocky  hills  and  clothed  with  in- 
finite thick  woods,"  and  as  a  proof  of  his  theory  that  the 
mountains  were  hollow,  cites  the  "resounding  of  the  rain" 
upon  the  rocky  summits.  The  Great  White  Mountain  Notch 
was  discovered  in  1791  by  two  hunters — Nash  and  Sawyer. 
In  1816,  a  party  of  scientific  gentlemen  made  extensive  bo- 
tanical collections,  and  determined  altitudes.  In  1820,  the 
whole  range  was  explored  by  a  party  from  Lancaster,  alti- 
tudes of  the  highest  summits  were  estiiblished  and  the  nioun- 


"WIIIP' 


NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


135 


tains  received  the  names  by  which  they  have  since  been 
known. 

With  the  early  settlement  of  this  rugged  and  forbidding 
region  the  name  of  the  Crawfords  is  inseparably  connected » 
as  opening  the  first  ways  of  ascent  to  the  mountain  summits 
and  preserving  a  thorough  knowledge  of  the  hills.  The 
tragic  story  of  the  Willey  family  is  told  in  preceding  pages, 
and  is,  perhaps,  so  familiar  as  to  need  no  repetition.  The 
desolate  experiences  and  hardships  of  the  isolated  pioneers 
whose  names  even  are  forgotten,  who  first  established  their 
rude  homes  in  this  rugged  and  forbidding  land,  die  out  with 
the  grey  heads  of  the  venerable  actors,  but  perseverence  so 
marked  and  sufferings  so  unselfish  should  have  been  pre- 
served by  the  genius  of  some  American  Scott,  or  live  in  the 
songs  of  a  Whittier,  through  the  passing  years. 

In  climbing  the  highest  summits,  the  tourist  passes  first 
through  the  dense  woods  around  their  bases,  lessening  in 
height  and  thinning  to  the  hardier  varieties  as  tlic  path 
enters  the  region  of  dwarfed  shrubs  and  clinging  mosses, 
and,  finally,  emerges  upon  the  bare  and  desolate  rocks  of  the 
higher  peaks  bearing  no  mark  of  the  action  of  the  waves  or' 
of  drift,  clothed  only  with  lichens,  mosses,  and  such  plants 
as  are  peculiar  to  Polar  regions.  Many  of  the  lesser  moun- 
ain3  are  baautifiiUy  wooiled  over  their  entire  summits. 

The  mountains,  in  winter,  present  to  the  appreciative  ob- 
server the  rarest  beauty.  Until  within  the  last  few  years  few 
travelers  have  had  the  hardihood  to  inspect  its  scenery  when 
clothed  in  the  snowy  mantle  which  veils  the  summits  for  so 
many  months.  For  the  last  four  winters  parties  have  resided 
through  the  entire  season  upon  the  summit  of  Mount  Wash- 
ington, in  the  interest  of  science,  and  have  made  valuable 
observations  regarding  the  strength  of  the  winds,  the  tem- 
perature and  phenomena  of  these  high  altitudes,  and  wit- 
nessed the  sublime  and  novel  scenes  presented  from  this 
elevation  through  the  inclement  months. 

Traces  of  the  Indians  once  inhabiting  the  mountain  region 
are  frequently  found  near  the  rivers  and  the  ponds — about 
Conway,  Fryeburg  and  Ossipee  their  implements,  moimds 


)  ,3 


136 


NOBTHERN   PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


r  *K 


h'i^    '[  ^ 


,J .  hi 


and  encampments  are  seen,  and  their  musical  tongue  is  pre- 
served in  the  names  of  Chucorua,  the  Femigewasset,  Am- 
monusuc,  Winnipesaukee,  Androscoggin  and  other  streams. 
They  had  the  highest  reverence  for  '*  The  Mountains  of  the 
Snowy  Forehead,"  by  some  called  Waumbek  Melhna^  "Moun- 
tains of  the  White  Rock."  Among  them,  as  with  nearly  all 
people,  there  was  a  legend  of  a  deluge ;  one  mighty  and  spot- 
less chief  and  his  squaw  being  taken  by  a  whirlwind  to  the 
crowning  summit,  while  all  others  perished.  It  was  com- 
monly belit^ved  among  them  that  no  intruders  on  these  peer- 
less 'summits  ever  returned  alive,  and  that  the  mighty  ruler 
of  the  Fennacooks,  while  coming  with  messages  from  the 
Great  Spirit,  was  borne  to  the  happy  hunting  grounds  in  a 
chariot  of  flame. 

Of  the  family  of  Crawfords,  so  identified  with  White 
Mountain  history,  Abel  Crawford  was  the  pioneer,  making  a 
home  on  the  "  Giants'  Grave,"  now  levelled  in  the  grounds 
of  the  Fabyan  House.  The  name  is  preserved  in  the  naming 
of  many  localities,  and  a  mt^estic  mountain  peak,  while  the 
descendants  are  a  hardy  and  noble  race.  One  of  the  ladies 
'who  courageously  climbed  to  the  summit  of  Mt.  Washington 
during  the  past  winter  was  a  descendant  of  this  family. 

Bare  of  historic  interest  and  legendary  charm,  and  want- 
ing in  geological  features  of  great  peculiarity,  these  imperial 
hills  by  the  simple  majesty  of  their  outlines  and  the  bold 
combination  of  their  masses,  attract,  each  year,  an  army  of 
tourists,  surpassed  only  by  the  charms  of  Niagara. 


CHAPTER  XI. 


NORTHWARD  TO  THE  CANADAS.    MONTREAL. 


^mmft 


'i 


Leaving  Northumberland,  by  either  day  or  night  trains, 
(parlor  cars),  over  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway,  North  Stratford 
station  is  the  point  of  departure  for  Colebrook  and  Dixvillo 
Notch,  (regular  stage  linos  connecting),  and  Island  Pond 
is  the  point  where  through  express  trains  stop  for  refresh- 
ments. 


'    The  Island  Pond  House     . 

is  connected  with  the  depot  by  covered  way  and  is  well  and 
favorably  known  as  a  dining  station  or  place  for  longer  stay ; 
Bartlett  &  Stone  are  the  proprietors. 
Sherbkooke  —  the  station  where  the  Passumpsic  route 


^     I  lib. 


\'i' 


138 


NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


unites  with  the  Grand  Trunk— is  a  thriving  and  important 
Canadian  town,  having  manufacturing  interests  of  impor- 
tance. 


The  Siiekbkooke  House, 

W.  Chamberlain,  proprietor,  is  an  old  and  well  known 
first-class  hotel,  thoroughly  refurnished  and  refitted  where 
you  can  be  well  cared  for ;  and  at  the  Continental,  a  new 
commodious  and  well  managed  hotel,  P.  A.  Camiuand,  Esq., 
proprietor,  guests  will  be  faithfully  cared  for.  From  Sher- 
brooke  the  route  is  northward  to 


RICHMOND, 

(Junction  with  the  Quebec  Division),  thence  westwani 
through  Durham,  Acton,  Upton,  Brittinia  Mills,  St.  Hya- 
cinthe,  Soirante,  Beloeil  and  St.  Lambert,  through  the  Vic- 
toria Bridge,  to  the  great  northern  city  of 

MONTREAL. 

Reaching  this  Canadian  metropolis,  by  either  of  the  ways 
of  approach  described  under  the  heads  of  routes,  your  first 
question  will,  no  doubt,  be  for  a  place  at  which  to  tarry  dur- 
ing your  stay.     At  the 


o 

H 

K 


O 

tn 
K 


■■?!i    ■ 


('■ 


fTT" 


140 


NORTHERN   PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


li. 


l!  .^.njji 


MONTREAL  HOUSE, 

Custom  House  Square,  Decker  &  Co.,  proprietors,  recently 
remodeled  and  refitted  throughout,  you  will  find  all  the 
requisites  for  making  your  stay  both  comfortable  and  pleasant 
Located  in  full  view  of  the  great  Victoria  Bridge,  neiir  tin; 
landing  of  the  foreign  steamers  and  river  boats,and  conveni- 
ent to  all  points  of  interest.  Decker  &  Co.,  the  proprietors, 
have  had  long  experience  in  the  keeping  of  first-class  hous<>s, 
and  patrons  will  not  be  disappointed.  Carriages  furnished  at 
the  hotel  for  drives  to  all  parts  of  the  city  and  the  surround- 
ings. The  rooms  are  not  surpassed  by  any  hotel  in  the  city, 
and  no  requisite  of  a  first-class  hotel  will  be  found  wanting. 
The  large,  airy  rooms,  healthful  breeze  from  the  river,  sup- 
plemented by  faithful  attendance^  and  reasonable  charges, 
will  reccommend  the-house  to  your  renewed  patronage  should 
you  once  make  it  your  home.  Space  forbids  mention  of 
many  other  first-class  houses  of  entertainment. 

This  commercial  and  financial  metropolis  of  the  Can- 
adas  is  also  the  most  populous  of  Cahadian  cities — some  140, 
000  souls.  It  is  situated  at  the  head  of  river  navigation 
proper,  540  miles  from  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  on  the 
Island  of  Montreal,  which  lies  between  the  broad  St.  Law- 
rence and  the  rapid  Ottawa — the  two  great  rivers  of  the 
North.  The  island  extends  some  thirty-two  miles  in  length 
and  ten  in  width,  and  is  considered  the  garden  of  the  Prov- 
inces. The  surface  is  generally  level,  excepting  the  emin- 
ence of  Mount  Royal  in  the  background,  rising  550  feet  above 
river  level,  and  from  which  the  city  takes  its  name,  Montreal 
being  a  shortening  or  modification  of  Mount  Royal. 

The  settlement  of  the  town  was  determined  upon  by  the 
first  explorer,  Jaques  Cartier,  in  1535,  the  site  being  that  of 
the  old  Indian  village  of  *'  Hochelaga,"  but  the  permanent 
founding  of  the  city  did  not  take  place  till  1643,  and  in  one 
hundred  years  of  growth  it  gathered  a  population  of  only 
4,000  souls;  since  then  the  growth  has  been  rapid. 
-  It  was  under  French  rule  till  1760,  when  it  passed  into  the 
hands  of  the  English.  In  1775  Ethan  Allen  made  his  mad 
attack  upon  the  city  with  a  handful  of  mep,  and  was  defeated 


NORTHERN   PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


141 


and  captured ;  but  shortly  after,  in  the  same  year,  Montgom- 
ery entered  the  city  in  triumph.  The  water  communication 
with  the  city  k^  Haid  to  be  the  most  extensive  of  any  city  in 
the  world  so  far  inland. 

Hero,  as  at  Quebec,  are  the  lower  and  the  upper  town, 
though  not  so  plainly  separated  by  unmistakable  natural  ele- 
vations as  in  the  more  northern  capital.  The  lower  town 
is  somewhat  cramped  and  gloomy  in  the  laying  out  of  the 
narrow  streets  and  styles  of  the  buildings  in  the  old  French 
order,  while  the  upper  town  has  wide  streets  and  squares, 
with  large,  imposing  structures,  built  mostly  of  the  greyish 
limestone  of  the  region. 

The  broad  quays  of  solid  limestone  are  unsurpassed  by  any 
on  the  continent,  and,  to  accommodate  the  growing  com- 
merce of  this  thriving  inland  port,  the  docks  and  basins  are 
continually  being  improved  and  enlarged.  Vessels  from  all 
parts  of  the  world  lie  at  its  wharves ;  ocean  steamers  of  thre  e 
thousand  tons,  and  sailing  vessels  of  twelve  hundred  tons  can 
reach  the  city  and  be  accommodated  in  the  harbor.  A  wide 
t(Mrace,  fVvced  with  grey  limestone,  crowned  on  the  parap et 
by  a  durable  iron  railing,  divides  the  city  from  the  river. 

VIEW  OF  THE  CITY. 

Approached  by  the  river,  by  steamer  from  LSchine,  the 
sight  presented  to  the  stranger  is  one  of  rare  interest  and 
beauty;  the  glittering  spires  and  great  domes  and  towers 
combine  in  royal  proportions ;  the  enduring  structures  of  cut 
stone  stretch  in  a  long  line  upon  the  river  front.  Mount 
Royal  is  in  the  background,  and  you  pass  beneath  that  great 
triumph  of  modern  enterprise  and  engineering, 

THE  VICTORIA  BRIDGE, 

which  serves  the  important  purpose  of  giving  uninterrupted 
rail  communication  between  the  Eastern  States  and  Oanadas 
and  the  Great  West.  It  is  used  only  for  railway  transit  and 
gives  to  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway  full  control  of  railway 
approaches  from  the  East.  This  great  work,  sometimes 
classed  as  the  eighth  artificial  wonder  of  the  world,  was  com- 
pleted in  1860,  under  the  superintendence  of  Robert  Stephen - 


m--': 


p' 


:d 


*- 


«'iiil 


siiii 


142 


NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


son  and  his  associates,  and  ii  one  and  a  quarter  miles  i  n 
length,  or  two  miles  in(3luding  the  extensions.  It  is  support- 
ed on  twenty-four  piers,  the  central  span  being  three  hundred 
and  thirty  feet,  the  remaining  ones  two  hundred  and  forty- 
two  feet,  with  massiVe  abutments ;  the  bridge  tube  is  of  iro  n, 
twenty-two  feet  high  by  sixteen  wide,  slightly  lessening  at 
the  ends.  It  was  erected  at  a  cost  of  $  6,300,000.  The  height 
of  the  center  span  above  ordinary  river  level  is  sixty  feet. 
Three  million  cubic  feet  of  masonry  and  ten  thousand  tons  of 
iron  enter  into  the  construction  of  th  gigantic  work.  There 
is  an  opening  in  the  center  iiftbrding  a  magnificent  river 
view.  No  railroad  train  is  allowed  to  enter  this  bridge  with- 
out a  written  perrhit  from  the  proper  officer,  thus  insuring 
exemption  fi'om  collision  or  accident;  the  passage  is  some- 
what cheerless,  occupying  some  six  minutes,  though  seeming 
much  longer  to  the  passenger.  By  obtaining  a  permit,  at  tlie 
office  of  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway,  tourists  can  inspect  a  por- 
tion of  th^  interior  of  the  bridge.  The  river  beneath  the 
bridge  has  a  swift  current  and  the  piers  are  calculated  to  with- 
stand immense  pressure  from  descending  masses  of  ice. 

PLACES  OP  INTEREST. 

Of  massive  buildings,  combining  show  of  strength  and  per- 
manence with  architectural  beauty,  there  is  no  lack  in  Mon- 
treaL  On  Great  St.  James  street  the  Post  office  is  a  beauti- 
ful building  of  cut  stone ;  ai\joining,  and  of  more  elaborate 
architecture,  is  the  Bank  of  British  North  America;  on  the 
same  street  is  the  building  constructed  of  sandstone,  and  per- 
haps the  finest  in  the  city,  known  as  Molson^s  Bank,  and  the 
fine  building  in  the  Italian  style,  with  an  elaborately  decorat- 
ed lecture  room,  known  as  the  Mechanic's  Institute. 

On  Notre  Dame  street,  built  in  the  Grecian,  Ionic  style,  is 
the  New  Court  House,  of  elegant  proportions  and  material. 
The  Old  Government  House  is  on  the  same  street. 

The  Nelson  Monument,  at  the  head  of  Jaques  Cartier 
Square,  is  a  column  of  grey  limestone  crowned  with  the  fig- 
ure of  the  hero  of  Trafalgar. 

The  Champ  de  Mars  Is  the  parade  ground  for  the  garrison 
regiments  and  volunteer  soldiery ;  three  thousand  troops  may 


^■■-•-    fl 


NORTHERN   PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


143 


lilcs  in 
apport- 
undred 
I  forty - 
of  iro  n, 
ning  at 
J  height 
cty  feet. 
i  tons  of 
There 
nt  river 
ge  with- 
insuring 
is  some- 
seeming 
it,  at  the 
jct  a  por- 
leath  the 
1  to  with- 
ice. 

and  per- 
:  in  Mon- 
Ei  beauti- 
Dhvborate 
on  the 
and  per- 
,  and  the 
f  decorat- 

3  style,  is 
material. 

s  Cartier 
th  the  fig- 

I  garrison 
roops  may 


be  reviewed  upon  it,  and  it  is  a  favorite  promenade  for  citi- 
zens. Here  the  fine  bands  of  the  regiments  often  discourse 
sweet  music  during  the  summer  evenings.  Facing  this  square 
is  the  Geological  Museum  with  its  extensive  collection  of 
specimens. 

Viger  Square,  near  the  Champ  de  Mars,  is  beautifully  laid 
out  as  a  garden,  with  conservatory,  fountains,  etc. 

On  St.  Catherine  street  is  the  English  Cathedral,  the  most 
perfect  specimen  of  Gothic  architecture  in  America,  sur- 
rounded by  a  cluster  of  lofty  spires. 

Bonsecours  Market  is  a  magnificent  edifice,  the  dome  of 
which  attracts  attention  as  you  land  from  the  boat.  The  up- 
per stories  contain  the  city  offices,  a  magnificent  hall  or  con- 
cert room  which  will  seat  4,000  persons,  and  the  rooms  of  the 
City  Council  most  elegantly  ornamented  and  arranged.  The 
location  is  at  the  corner  of  Water  and  St.  Paul  streets. 

The  McGill  College,  so  called  from  Hon.  James  McGill, 
who  liberally  endowed  the  institution,  has  extensive  build- 
ings and  museum. 

St.  Patrick's  Hall  was  a  fine  building  on  Victoria  square, 
but  waj]  destroyed  by  fire  in  1872.  The  dry  goods  and  hard- 
ware trade  centres  are  on  St.  Paul  street,  which  presents  a 
fine  line  of  warehouses.  But  the  great  centre  of  interest  for 
stiangers  is  the  French 

CATHEDRAL  OF  NOTRE  DAME, 

reputed  to  be  the  largest  church  edifice  in  North  America, 
holding  within  its  walls  10,000.  The  building  is  two  hundred 
and  sixty  feet  long  by  one  hundred  and  forty  feet  broad,  and 
the  two  massive  towers,  flanking  the  front  upon  the  square, 
rise  two  hundred  and  twenty  feet.  There  is  a  famous  peal  of 
bells  in  the  left  tovcr,  one  of  which  is  the  famous  "  Gros 
Bourdon,"  weighing  fifteen  tons  and  having  a  deep  bass  into- 
nation. The  prospect  from  the  right  tower,  which  can  be 
ascended  by  payment  of  a  slight  fee,  is  wonderfully  wide, 
looking  out  upon  the  broad  waters,  the  islands  and  shipping 
of  the  St.  Lawrence,  the  rapids  of  Lachine,  the  distant  Ver- 
mont hills  and  the  suburban  villages.  The  Seminary  of  St. 
Sulpice  a^oins  the  Cathedral  and  is  surrounded  by  spacious 


IBI 


•144 


NORTHERN   PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


«  -<, 


if     I 


^Wt 


15  £ 


gardens  and  court  yards.  In  near  vicinity,  around  this  fine 
square,  arc  tiie  noble  buildings  of  the  important  Banking  and 
Insurance  Companies  of  the  Dominion. 

DRIVES. 

The  Canadian  carriage  is  kept  with  scrupulous  neatness, 
the  drivers  are  your  willing  and  obliging  servants,  knowing 
every  inch  of  the  routes  by  which  they  convey  you,  and  tho 
prices,  unlike  American  coaching  fares,  do  not  spoil  the  fiiir- 
est  prospects  by  threatening  total  ruin  to  your  finances.  A 
vehicle  drawn  by  two  horses  may  be  had  at  a  charge  of  one 
dollar  for  first  hour,  and  seventy-five  cents  for  additional 
hours;  for  carriage  witii  one  horse  for  one  or  two  persons, 
fifty  cents  first  hour,  and  forty  cents  for  additional  hours  is 
about  the  usual  charge ;  and,  for  trips  to  the  suburbs,  charges 
vary  with  the  number  of  the  party  and>di stance.  Carriages 
will  be  found  at  tiie  railway  station,  and  the  tourist  can  pro- 
ceed immediately  on  his  ride  througli  the  city  if  pressed  for 
time. 

The  drive  of  nine  miles  around  the  mountain,  visiting  the 
Mount  Royal  Cemetery,  two  miles  from  the  city,  on  tho 
northern  slope  of  Mount  Royal,  approached  by  a  broad  av- 
enue, and  of  itself  well  worth  a  visit,  is  a  trip  wlilch  should 
by  no  means  be  omitted,  aflbrding  as  it  does  commanding  and 
attractive  views  of  the  Canadian  metropolis  and  the  great 
river  of  the  North,  which  no  lover  of  the  beautiful  and  tho 
grand  in  landscape  should  fail  to  enjoy. 

The  vicjws  obtained  from  the  Water  Works  Reservoir,  a 
mile  from  the  city,  cut  in  the  solid  rock,  are  extensive  and 
interesting.  A  drive  down  the  river  bank  to  Ljugue  Point 
is  in  great  favor  with  the  people  of  the  city,  and  will  provo 
of  interest  to  visitors.  , 

The  drive  which,  perh  ips,  will  prove  of  greatest  interest, 
is  that  of  nine  miles  to  the  village  of  Lacliine.  The  Laehlno 
road  leads  along  the  banks  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  during 
this  drive,  by  selecting  the  proper  time,  the  descent  of  the 
steamer  through  the  Rapids  m  ty  be  witnessed.  The  Ripids, 
below  Lachine,  have  a  fall  of  forty-four  and  a  half  feet,  and 
the  descent  of  these  by  steamer  is  one  of  the  sensations  of 


NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


145 


is  fine 
ig  and 


itness, 
awing 
id  tlie 
le  fair- 
ies. A 
of  one 
litional 
ersons, 
>iirs  is 
ihai'ges 
ki-riages 
an  pn)- 
ssed  for 

ting  tlie 
on  the 

'oad  av- 
should 

ling  and 

tie  great 
and  the 

rvoir,  a 
sive  and 

10  Point 

11  prove 

interest, 
Lichine 

d  daring 
nt  of  the 

3  Rip  ids, 
feet,  and 
itions  of 


your  visit.  Every  morning  (in  BUinmer)  a  train  leaves  the 
railroad  station  on  Bonaven^ure  street,  at  7  o'clock  a.m.,  for 
Lachine,  connecting  witii  the  small  steamer  at  the  railroad 
wharf,  for  the  trip  down  the  Rapids.  Caughnawaga,  the  In- 
dian village  opposite,  is  the  point  from  which  Baptiste,  the 
renowned  Indian  pilot,  comes  out  in  his  bark  canoe  to  pilot 
the  boats  of  the  Canadian  Navigation  Company  through  the 
Rapids..  These  Rapids  offer  the  greatest  obstacle  to  naviga- 
tion of  any  on  the  river,  and  that  immense  work,  the  Lachine 
Canal,  eight  and  one-half  milesi  in  length,  was  constructed  to 
avoid  this  obstruction.  Improvements  about  to  be  made  will 
enable  all  descending  steam  craft  to  keep  the  river,  leaving 
the  canals  exclusively  to  sailing  vessels  and  ascending  boats. 
The  morning  trip  to  Lachine,  with  the  return  by  steamer 
through  tiie  Rapids,  and  beneath  the  largest  and  most  noted 
bridge  in  the  world,  giving  the  favorite  view  of  the  city,  and 
landing  you  again  at  the  wharf  by  9  o'clock  a.m.,  will  prove 
a  vvontierful  appetizer  and  a  lasting  pleasure. 

DOWN  THE  ST.  LAWRENCE. 

From  Montreal  to  Quebec  passage  may  be  made,  during 
the  season  of  navigation — usually  from  April  to  December — 
on  one  of  the  staunch  and  commodious  steamers  owned  by 
the  Richelieu  Company,  and  called  the  **  Montreal"  and  the 
"  Quebec."     Leaving  Montreal  in  the  evening,  (excepting 
Sunday  evening,)  passing  the  fort  on  the  island  in  the  harbor, 
leaving  LoNGUEiL  to  the  right,  and  passing  the  group  of 
islands  below  the  city  and  the  mouth  of  the  Ottawa  river, 
you  are  fairly  on  the  way  to  the  old  capital.    Beloeil  Moun- 
tain attracts  attention  to  the  eastward,  and  you  cannot  fail  to 
be  interested  in  the  general  appearence  of  the  novel  land- 
scape, a  sort  of  '*  Northern  Holland,"  appearing  in  many  in- 
stances frona  the  boat  to  be  below  water  level;  jin  other 
pliices,  as  you  progress,  the  shores  slope  in  teri^ces,  or  wide 
steps,  terminating  in  a  ridge. 

SoREL  or  William  Henry,  forty-five  miles  below  Mon- 
treal is  the  firgt  station  where  a  halt  is  made  by  the  steamer. 
This  Canadian  town  is  built  around  a  central  square  at  the 
confluence  of  the  St.  Johns  (otherwise  known  as  the  Rich- 


Hi 


N. 


146 


NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


elieu  or  Sorel  river)  and  the  St.  Lawrence.  The  St.  John's 
or  Richelieu  River  is  peculiar  in  the  fact  that,  at  its  outlet, 
it  is  narrower  than  at  its  source  or  through  its  course,  being 
the  northern  outlet  of  Lake  Champlain.  There  is  immense 
transportation  of  lumber  along  its  course. 

Some  fifty  miles  below  Montreal,  and  five  miles  below  Sor- 
el, the  broad  river  expands  into  a  wide  lake  nearly  twenty- 
five  miles  in  length,  and  (at  its  widest)  nine  miles  width, 
known  as  "  Lake  St.  Peter,"  and  interspersed  with  islands  at 
its  upper  entrance ;  though  the  wide  expansion  produces  a 
shallow  depth,  the  channel  followed  by  shipping  admits  the 
passage  of  vessels  of  the  larger  class.  The  River  St.  Francis 
here  enters  the  lake  from  the  south. 

The  scenery  along  the  route  may  not  prove  of  sullicient 
variety  and  interest  to  keep  the  traveler  from  needed  rest 
through  the  long  night  hours,  though  the  mighty  river, 
draining  through  the  lakes  that  immense  valley,  will  never 
be  without  its  suggestions  of  power ;  and,  when  the  moon, 
breaking  from  rolling  curtains  of  cloud,  tints  the  broad  ex- 
panse, till  it  glitters  like  a  vast  surface  of  silver  sparkling 
with  diamond  points  of  light,  which  fade  and  renew  in  the 
wake  of  the  dancing  silver  waves  which  mark  your  progi*ess, 
the  wakeful  traveler  will  find  no  lack  of  suggestive  sights  in 
his  midnight  watch. 

A  great  amount  of  shipping  of  every  class  will  be  passed, 
and  immense  timber  rafts  will  be  observed  in  the  descent, 
floating  down  to  the  great  lumber  mart  at  Quebec,  some- 
times in  single  rafts  and  sometimes  in  many  combined  in  a 
floating  timber  town,  populous  with  hardy  lumbermen, 
whose  songs  enliven  the  monotony  of  their  voyugt;. 

The  town  of  "  Three  Rivers,"  midway  between  Montrciil 
and  Quebec,is  one  of  tlie  oldest  settlements  in  Canadu.and  li.is 
convent  buildings  and  chiu  ,a  edifices  of  considerable  arolii- 
tectural  pretensions.  The  town  was  first  settled  in  1618,  ;in;l 
has  a  population  of  nearly  6,000  souls.  The  River  St.  Mau- 
rice here  joins  tiie  St.  Lawrence  and  is  divided  at  its  month 
by  islands  into  three  distinct  channels,  (hence  the  name  of 
the  town  "  Three  Rivei-s.")    Immense  quantities  of  log-»  an<l 


NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


147 


John's 
outlet, 
,  being 
mense 

)W  Sor- 
wenty- 
width, 
ands  at 
duces  a 
nits  the 
Francis 

iilFicient 
led  rest 
y  river, 
ill  never 
le  moon, 
road  ex- 
[parkling 
w  in  the 
ji'ogi'ess, 
sights  in 

passed, 
descent, 
c,  sonie- 
ned  in  a 
iV)ermen, 

Montreiil 
,and  has 

)le  arohi- 
1618,  suid 

vSt.  Mail- 
its  nioutli 
name  of 
f  log^anU 


manufactured  lumber  come  down  the  St.  Maurice,  to  this 
lumber  centre,  where  are  located  several  extensive  saw  mills 
and  foundries.  A  branch  of  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway  di- 
verging from  the  Quebec  division  at  Artliabaska  has  its  ter- 
minus at  Doucet's  Landing  opposite  tliis  point. 

A  canoe  voyage  up  the  St.  Maurice  for  thirty  miles  to  the 
'*  Falls  of  the  Shawenegan  "  is  sometimes  made.  Just  above 
the  month  of  the  Shaweuvigan  river  the  broad  stream  plunges 
in  a  sheer  descent  of  one  hundred  and  lifty  feet — a  natural 
wonder,  which,  if  easily  reached,  would  be  one  of  the  chief 
attractions  of  Canadian  travel. 

Some  fifty  miles  before  reaching  Quebec  the  rapids  of  Rich- 
elieu, where  the  river  contracts  into  narrow  space,  and  the 
current  flows  over  a  rocky  bed,  was,  in  the  olden  time,  con- 
sidered quite  an  impediment  to  navigation  ;  ImjIow  these  rap- 
ids the  banks  become  gradually  elevated.  From  the  red 
banks  of  Cape  Rouge  (seven  miles  above  Quebec),  the  shores 
of  the  river  rise  into  hills  and  precipices.  The  Chaudiere 
River  enters  six  miles  above  the  city,  the  i)recipitous  banks 
increase  in  height  and  the  eager  stranger  catches  a  distant 
vitjw  of  the  towers  and  battlements  of  the  grand  old  north- 
ern city. 

Before  reaching  the  town,  **  Wolfe's  Cove  "  will  be  point- 
ed out  to  the  left — that  memorable  spot  where  tite  brave 
commander  landed  his  forces  under  cover  of  darkness,  and, 
scaling  the  precipice,  fought  the  memorable  battle  which 
changed  the  destiny  of  the  western  empire.  The  round  Mar- 
Icllo  Towers,  in  advance  of  the  defciices  of  the  city,  on  the 
plains  of  Abraham,  first  attract  attention,  and  you  sweep  in 
full  vievv  of  the  defiant  battlements  and  towers  which  crown 
the  natural  walls  of  Old  Quebec — the  seat  of  ancient  domin- 
ion— where  jealous  nations  contended  for  supremacy  and 
shook  its  rocky  throne  with  the  roar  and  clash  of  contending 
aruiies.  As  you  approach  the  point  of  landing,  the  grim  bat- 
tlements of  the  city  are  upon  the  left ;  the  growing  settlement 
of  Poiiit  Levi,  tlio  railway  terminus  at  this  point,  is  to  the 
ri-^ht,  the  fair  island  of  Orleans  is  just  belov/  you,  while 
:ibout  you,  in  one  of  the  grandest  inland  harbors  of  the  world, 


ivjii".*** 


148 


NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEI^. 


11 


i*-'  I 


capable  of  floating  at  the  same  time  one  hundred  ships  of  the 
line,  are  vessels  of  every  class ;  the  largest  ever  constructed 
can  float  under  the  very  walls  of  the  citadel. 

MONTREAL  TO  QUEBEC,   BY  RAIL. 

Those  who  prefer  the  rail  route  to  a  night  trip  by  boat  can 
leave  the  station,  Bonaventure  street,  pass  through  the  "Vic- 
toria Bridge,"  before  described,  through  St.  Lambert's,  Bel- 
oeil,  St.  Hillaire,  St.  Hyacinthe  with  its  extensive  nunneri(^s 
and  church  buildings,  Brittania  Mills,  Upton,  and  New  Dur- 
ham, to  Richmond  Junction,  seventy-six  miles  from  Mon- 
treal, where  cars  are  taken  over  the  Quebec  division,  ninety- 
five  miles,  to  Quebec.  Along  this  line  the  scenery  will  l)o 
somewhat  bare  of  interest  to  a  majority  of  travelers,  and,  in 
a  sleeping  car,  the  traveler  may  perhaps  with  great  propriety 
take  his  ease  and  gather  strength  for  his  tour  of  Quebec. 
The  stations  are  Danville,  Warwick,  Arthabaska  (brancli 
from  this  point  to  Three  Rivers),  Stanfold,  Somerset,  Becan- 
cour,  Lyster,  Methot's  Mills,  Black  River,  Craig's  Road, 
Chaudiore  Junction  and  Point  Levi,  (the  Quebec  station.) 
Tlie  country  passed  through  on  tliis  line  has  a  sameness  of 
aspect,  and  the  stations  are  not  points  of  particular  impor- 
tance other  than  as  freight  and  trade  centres  for  the  ac\jacent 
country.  A  railway  along  the  north  shore  of  the  St.  Law- 
rence is  projected  to  unite  the  two  great  Canadian  cities,  but 
its  early  construction  is  not  assured.  You  cross  from  Point 
Levi  by  ferry,  encircled  with  points  or  objects  of  interest  on 
either  bank,  on  the  island  below  and  upon  the  surface  of  the 
broad  harbor,  and  are  landed  beneath  the  frowning  walls  of 
the  grand  old  city  of  the  North,  fully  described  in  the  follow- 
ing chapter. 


4   _ 

fa    VI  S^ET 

Ifi 


if  the 
ictetl 


it  can 
"Vic- 
,  Bel- 
aerios 

r  Dui- 

Moii- 
linoty- 
m\\  he 
md,  in 
oprU^ty 
Quebec, 
branch 
Bocan- 

Roail, 
tation.) 
moss  of 

inipov- 
kt\jacent 
Law- 

ies,  but 
Q  Point 
erest  on 

e  of  the 

walls  of 
foUow- 


CHAPTER  XII. 


i    i 


O 

M 

08 
W 

o 


QUEBEC. 


THE  WALLED  CITY  OF  THE  NORTH. 


I 
i! 


I! 


150 


NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


On  your  an'ival  in  Quebec,  your  inquiry  for  a  first-class 
hotel  will  be  answered  by  your  being  directed  to  that  long 
known  and  popular  house,  the 


St.  Louis  Hotel, 
on  St.  Louis  street,  Willis  Russell,  proprietor. 

This  is  a  long  established  and  favorite  house,  complete  in 
all  its  arrangements,  efficient  and  liberal  in  its  management, 
affording  to  its  guests  all  wished  for  accommodations.  The 
location  is  central,  near  the  delightful  and  fashionable  prom- 
enades and  terraces  of  this  grand  old  city.  The  manage- 
ment is  the  best,  and  substantial  plenty  and  commendable 
neatness  in  every  department  are  characteristics  of  the  house. 
The  accommodations  are  for  five  hundred  guests,  and,  with 
the  recent  enlargements  and  improvements,  the  most  exact- 
ing cannot  fail  of  satisfaction.  Carriages  at  reasonable  rates 
for  the  tour  of  the  city  and  surroundings  may  be  had  at  the 
hotel,  and  valuable  information  regardiug  the  attractions 
within  and  around  the  city. 

THE  RUSSELL  HOUSE, 

corner  of  Ann  and  Garden  streets,  is  kept  as  an  auxiliary  of 
the  St.  Louis,  and  oft'ers  especial  accommodations  to  com- 
mercial travelers,  business  men,  and  all  others  who  may  tem- 
porarily or  permanently  locate  here. 


NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


151 


class 
long 


)lete  in 
rement, 
s.    Tho 
e  proni- 
nanage- 
enclable 
e  house, 
nd,  with 
3t  exact- 
ble  rates 
id  at  the 
iractions 


:iliary  of 
to  corn- 
may  teni- 


RussELL  House. 

Quebec  was  the  capital  of  French  dominion  in  America — 
the  western  Gibralter  and  key  to  the  gi'eat  St.  Lawrence  val- 
ley. When  approached  by  rail  the  city  is  seen  in  the  first 
promise  of  its  unique  beauty  from  Point  Levi.  From  tho 
ferry  passage,  or  by  the  river  approach  from  above  or  below, 
the  view  is  no  less  beautiful  and  novel.  The  upper  and  lower 
town  are  here  no  imaginary  divisions,  but  separate  and  dis- 
tinct, the  former  crowning  the  lofty  promontory  of  Capo 
Diamond,  with  its  line  of  massive  fortifications,  and  contain- 
ing the  fine  residences  and  public  buildings,  is  the  quarter  of 
fashion ;  the  latter  extends  along  tho  narrow  strip  of  land 
beneath  the  cliffs  and  under  the  overhanging  walls  to  the 
suburb  of  St.  Roche.  St.  Peter  street  is  the  principal  street 
of  tills  section,  and  along  its  line  and  branches  and  upon  the 
wharves,  tlxe  banks,  insurance  companies,  offices  of  mer- 
chants and  the  smaller  hotels  are  located.  The  city  is  one  of 
the  largest  lumber  ports  on  the  continent,  the  great  rafts  of 
timber  lying  by  acres  along  the  river  banks  and  in  the  coves. 
The  city  is  supplied  with  water  from  Lake  St.  Charles,  nine 
miles  distant,  above  ti;e  falls  of  Lorette. 

GENERAL  VIEW  OF  THE  CITY. 

No  city  on  the  continent  so  impresses  the  tourist,  by  the 
startling  peculiarities  of  the  sitO/and  the  novelty  of  its  gen- 
eral aspect,  as  this  "ancient  capital,^'  or  stamps  its  impress 


>^f 


i  <l 


I 


■T 


mm 


I  ilii 


ll     ,. 


152 


NORTHERN   PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


SO  indelibly  in  eye  and  memory.  It  was  founded  by  Snmnel 
de  Champlain»  the  French  geogi'apher,  in  1608,  on  the  bIIo 
of  the  Indian  village  of  **  Stadicona,"  at  the  confluence  of 
the  St.  Lawrence  and  St.  Charles  rivers,  three  hundred  and 
sixty  miles  from  the  mouth  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  one  hun- 
dred and  eighty  miles  below  Montreal.  It  is  said,  with  show 
of  truth,  that  the  line  of  many  of  the  streets  follows  the  old 
footpaths  of  the  Indian  village. 

The  view  from  the  ramparts  and  terraces  of  the  upper 
town  looks  down  upon  a  curious  scene  of  activity  upon  the 
wide  wooden  quays  and  winding,  narrow  streets  of  the  lower 
town,  crowded  with  vehicles  and  the  busy  populace,  dwarfed 
to  liliputian  proportions  as  viewed  from  the  height,  while 
you  look  into  blackened  throats  of  the  chimneys  and  upon 
the  moss-grown  roofs  of  the  time-browned  buildings. 

A  massive  wall  of  hewn  stone,  of  nearly  three  miles  in 
length,  and  of  varying,  but  everywhere  forbidding  height  and 
thickness,  with  projecting  bastions  and  frowning  cannon, 
communicating  with  the  outward  world  by  five  massive  gates, 
encloses  the  better  portion  of  the  upper  town.    Prescott  gate, 
by  which  you  enter  the  walls  from  the  landing,  has  been  or 
is  to  be  demolished,  on  account  of  impeding  travel.     This 
gate,  and  Palace  and  Hope  gates,  communicate  with  the  low- 
er town ;  St.  Louis  gate  with  the  suburbs  in  the  direction  of 
the  plains  of  Abraham ;  St.  John's  gate  with  the  suburbs  of 
St.  Roche  and  Beauport,  and  is  the  gate  through  which  you 
pass  in  the  drive  to  Montmorenci.    The  principal  street  of 
the  lower  town  is  St.  Peter  street.    In  the  upper  town  St. 
Louis  street  and  St.  John  street  communicate  with  the  gates 
of  same  name,  and  are  the  main  avenues  of  union  with  the 
suburbs.    The  St.  Foy  and  St.  Louis  roads  are  the  principal 
outside  ways  of  travel,  and  are  lined  with  the  residences  of 
the  gentry.   Driving  out  through  St.  John's  gate  over  the  St. 
Foy  rpad,  and  returning  by  the  St/  Louis  road,  you  pass  a  net 
work  of  country  seats,  each  enclosing  grounds  of  wide  ex- 
tent; noble  old  manor  houses,  surrounded  with  luxuriant 
forest  trees ;  elegant  mansions  and  spacious  cottages,  shaded 
avenues,  wide  views,  and  numerous  points  made  historical 


NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


153 


by  the  remarkable  and  tragic  events  which  have  enwrapped 
with  historic  interest  nearly  every  rood  of  soil  in  and  about 
this  wonderful  city,  where  the  rival  nations  of  the  earth  con- 
tended for  western  supremacy,  and  the  pioneers  of  civiliza- 
tion and  heroes  in  warfare  won  deathless  names  for  courage 
and  daring.  Mount  Hermon  Cemetery,  beautifully  laid  out, 
enclosing  thirty-two  acres,  is  three  miles  out  on  the  St.  Louis 
road. 

The  form  of  the  city  is  that  of  a  triangle,  the  base  towards 
the  Plains  of  Abraham,  and  the  St.  Lawrence  and  St.  Charles 
upon  either  side.  In  and  about  it  all  seems  distinctively 
quaint,  curious  and  old,  giving  the  impression  that  you  have 
in  some  way  been  set  back  a  century  in  the  patli  of  progress, 
and  are  looking  upon  scenes  of  long  ago.  The  harbor  is  the 
noblest  on  inland  waters.  A  fleet  of  the  largest  vessels  ever 
constructed  can  manoeuvre  in  its  waters,  and  craft  of  every 
description,  from  the  ocean  steamship  and  monster  merch- 
antman to  the  shell-like  canoe  and  tiny  sail  boat,  are  found 
upon  its  waters. 

THE  CITADEL      ' 

will,  perhaps,  prove  the  point  of  greatest  interest  to  many, 
from  the  historic  associations  connected  therewith,  and  from 
the  fact  that,  judged  by  the  older  systems  of  gunnery  and  de- 
fence, it  was  considered  an  impregnable  fortress.  It  covers 
some  forty  acres  of  enclosed  area,  and  is  some  three  hundred 
and  forty  feet  above  the  river  level.  A  few  years  ago  a  loos- 
ened rock  fell  from  this  frowning  wall  into  the  street  below, 
causing  the  loss  of  live  lives  and  the  destruction  of  dwellings. 
The  zigzag  passage  through  which  you  enter  the  fortress,  be- 
tween high  and  massive  gi'anite  walls,  is  swept  at  every  turn 
by  formidable  batteries  of  heavy  guns.  Within  are  the  slight- 
ly rising  parade  ground,  the  bomb-proof  quarters,  storehouses 
and  hospital  buildings,  the  numerous  magazines,  implements, 
stores,  guns  of  every  calibre,  supplies  and  ammunition,  and 
the  various  combinations  and  material  for  defence,  which 
your  military  attendant  can  best  describe,  and  the  inspection 
of  which  can  but  prove  of  lasting  interest  to  all  visitors.  On 
the  forbidding  river  walls,  and  at  each  angle  or  possible  com- 


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manning  point,  guns  of  heavy  calibre  sweep  every  avenue  of 
approach  by  the  river;  ditches,  breastworks  and  frowning 
batteries  command  tlie  approaches  by  land  from  the  famed 
•'  Plains  of  Abraham."  The  precipitous  bluflfs,  rising  almost 
perpendicularly  from  the  river,  three  hundred  and  forty  feet, 
present  a  natural  barrier  which  may  be  swept  with  murder- 
ous fire,  and  the  covered  ways  of  approach  and  retreat,  the 
various  kinds  and  calibre  of  guns,  mortars,  howitzers  and 
munitions  of  war  will  be  viewed  with  eager  interest. 

The  wide  outlook  from  the  river  wall  of  the  citadel  will 
also  enchain  the  attention  of  the  visitor  who  is  fortunate 
enough  to  look,  in  the  soft  light  of  the  declining  sun,  upon 
the  bold  promontories,  smiling  fields,  picturesque  villages, 
glittering  roofs  and  spires,  wide,  tranquil  waters  and  distant 
plains  and  forests  which  combine  in  the  wide  and  charming 
landscape. 

Across  the  river  the  view  is  directly  upon  the  settlement  of 
Point  Levi,  where,  in  1775,  the  little  army  of  Arnold  rendez- 
voused, after  that  memorable  march  through  the  wilderness, 
and,  made  the  mad  attempt  to  dislodge  the  English  forces 
within  the  city.  Modern  fortifications  of  great  strength  are 
being  erected  at  this  point.  The  identical  spot  where  the 
brave  Montgomery  fell,  in  a  winding  sheet  of  snow  in  the 
cold  December  storm,  is  pointed  out  to  you  from  the  citadel 
walls,  and,  in  your  ride  about  the  city,  the  low-roofed  build- 
ing to  which  his  remains  were  conveyed  will  be  pointed  out, 
as  also  the  street  where  Arnold's  forces  were  defeated  and 
captured.  Looking  down  the  river  the  Island  of  Orleans, 
nineteen  miles  long  and  five  and  a  half  miles  wide,  swells  in 
flowing  curves  from  the  river — a  fruitful,  populous  and  beau- 
tiful land. 

To  the  west  you  look  upon  the  Plains  of  Abraham  and  the 
brink  of  the  precipitous  bluffs  scaled  by  the  dauntless  Wolfe 
and  his  brave  soldiery  in  that  memorable  surprise  and  victo- 
ry in  1759,  immediately  following  the  humiliating  defeat  at 
Montmorenci.  Upon  the  spot  where  the  brave  commaniler 
fell,  a  granite  shaft  briefly  tells  the  story  of  his  victory  and 
death,  at  the  early  age  of  thirty-three  years. 


w 


NORTHERN   PLEASURE   TRAVEL. 


DRIVES. 


155 


There  would  seem  to  be  no  end  to  the  points  of  interest  to 
which  the  tourist  may  be  taken  in  and  around  this  ancient 
city,  but  one  of  the  principal,  and  often  the  first,  is  the  eight 
mile  drive  through  St.  John's  gate,  over  an  excellent,  paved 
road,  supported  by  tolls,  through  the  suburb  of  St.  Roche  and 
Beauport,  to  the  falls  at  the  mouth  of  the  small  but  rapid 
Montmorenci  River,  known  as  the 


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As  you  cross  the  St.  Charles  River,  in  leaving  the  city,  the 
vessels  in  process  of  construction  attract  attention.    In  the 


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156 


NORTHERN   PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


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building  of  substantial  and  durable  vessels  Quebec  has  gained 
enviable  fame. 

The  scene  along  this  drive  is  entirely  French,  the  women 
perform  the  labor  in  the  gardens  and  are  seen  going  to  and 
returning  from  market,  in  the  odd  market  wagons  drawn  by 
Canadian  ponies.  The  conversation  of  the  native  is  in 
French. 

A  few  miles  out  you  will  be  shown  the  unique  and  ancient 
cottage,  where  Montcalm  had  his  headquarters  at  the  time  of 
the  celebrated  battle  with  Wolfe,  and  near  which  was  fought 
the  first  and  unsuccessful  battle  for  the  possession  of  the  key 
to  the  Canadas.  It  is  allowed  to  remain  in  its  ancient  con- 
dition, and  is  eagerly  viewed  by  the  thousands  who  pass  it 
during  the  season  of  summer  travel. 

On  either  side  of  the  road  from  this  point,  in  close  proxim- 
ity to  the  street,  are  the  quaint  little  Canadian  cottages  set  at 
every  imaginable  angle  with  the  road,  white  as  the  snow,  in 
their  summer  coating  of  whitewash,  with  steep  roofs,  odd 
stone  chimneys,  and  out-door  ovens,  all  with  a  look  of  neat- 
ness an<l  thrift.  We  do  not  remember  seeing  even  an  ap- 
proach to  the  squalid  or  filthy  in  the  whole  line  of  humble 
cottages.  Reaching  the  little  Montmorenci  River  you  look 
about  you  on  historic  ground,  for  here  was  fought  the  unsuc- 
cessful and  nearly  disastrous  battle  of  Montmorenci,  which 
immediately  preceded  Wolfe's  final  victory  on  the  Plains  of 
Abraham. 

Registering  your  name  at  a  little  hotel,  the  landlady  of 
which  is  entirely  competent  to  the  management  of  the  estab- 
lishment, and  paying  the  small  fee  exacted  as  owners  or 
lessees  of  the  land  through  which  you  pass,  you  follow  a  path 
through  the  fields  around  a  cove  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  and 
look  across  the  intervening  gulf  upon  the  beautiful  fall  of  the 
Montmorenci,  two  hundred  and  forty  feet  descent,  into  the 
St.  Lawrence,  over  the  almost  perpendicular  wall  of  the 
bluff. 

If  you  liave  come  expecting  to  look  upon  a  mighty  cata- 
ract, falling  with  deafening  roar  and  mighty  force  along 
trembling  descents,  you  will  be  disappointed ;   but  if  a  deli- 


gained 

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NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


157 


cate  rib1)on  of  snowy  whiteness,  rolling  over  the  bluff  and 
melting  into  the  waters  below,  appearing  as  white,  pure 
and  gossamer-like  as  the  folds  of  a  bridal  veil,  has  charms 
for  you,  then  this  delicate  leap  of  the  feathery  foam  over  the 
worn  rocks  of  the  almost  perpendicular  bluff,  will  live  in 
your  memory  a  rare  scene  of  picturesque  and  dreamy  beauty. 
The  width  of  the  main  stream  is  about  fifty  feet,  widening  at 
high  water  to  sixty  or  seventy  feet.  On  either  side  of  the 
main  descent  small  streams  creep  down  the  seams  of  the 
rocky  wall  in  serpentine  lines  of  white  or  silvery  brightness. 
Another  view  is  to  approach  directly  to  the  brink  of  the  fall, 
descend  a  flight  of  steps  built  down  the  steep  wall  of  rock, 
and  stand  where  the  spray  and  foam  rush  past  you  into  the 
white  mass  below. 

On  either  side  of  the  fall  stand  the  towers  of  the  Suspen- 
sion Bridge,  erected  several  years  ago,  and  which,  from  some 
imperfection,  gave  way,  precipitating  a  laborer  and  his  fam- 
ily, who  were  crossing  in  a  rude  cart  at  the  time,  into  the 
seething  mass  below.  The  bridge  was  never  rebuilt,  and  the 
towers  stand  solitary  upon  the  banks. 

The  falls  are  a  favorite  place  of  resort  in  winter  for  the 
Canadians,  the  spray  freezing  in  a  huge  fey  cone,  down  which 
a  daring  coasting  feat  is  performed,  known  in  local  phrase  as 
"tobogging."  The  "  Natural  Steps,"  three  quarters  of  a  mile 
above  the  falls,  extend  for  half  a  mile  along  the  limestone 
banks  of  the  river,  and  have  the  regularity  of  the  work  of 
human  skill; 

Returning  to  the  city  by  the  same,  or  a  different  route,  you 
will  be  interested  by  the  view  presented  from  the  different 
points.  The  tin  roofs  of  the  larger  buildings  and  spires  of  the 
churches  here,  as  at  Montreal,  St.  Hyacinthe  and  the  larger 
villages,  preserve  all  their  dazzling  brilliancy,  and,  as  the 
sun  falls  upon  the  domes,  spires  and  roofs  of  the  city,  it  needs 
no  poetical  imagination  to  remind  you  of  the  brilliant  pictures 
of  oriental  cities.  How  this  lasting  brightness  is  retained, 
whether  by  the  peculiarity  of  climate  or  non-corrosive  qual  ity 
of  the  metal,  we  have  not  seen  explained.  Once  more  with- 
in the  city 


i^'i 


'■i~^^mm 


158 


NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


i  !»' 


DURHAM    TEKUACE, 

widely  famed  as  aflfording  u  view,  considered  by  many  as 
second  to  none  in  the  world,  obtained  from  within  settled 
town  limits,  will  detain  you  for  a  time  as  you  overlook  thy 
broad  landscape  spread  below  and  described  in  the  outlook 
from  the  citadel  walls. 

THE  governor's  GARDEN, 

or  garden  of  the  fortress,  is  a  point  of  interest  chiefly  for  the 
monument  (65  feet  in  height),  erected  to  the  memory  of 
those  two  brave  commanders,  Wolfe  and  Montcalm,  who, 
though  in  life  brought  in  deadly  enmity,  are  united  in  the 
memories  and  honors  of  the  future. 

The  Grand  Battery,  the  Esplanade,  the  English  Cathedral, 
the  Ursuline  Convent,  founded  early  in  the  seventeenth  cen- 
tury, with  its  fine  paintings,  the  University  of  Quebec,  the 
Jail  and  Quebec  Music  Hall,  with  the  Custom  House  and 
Exchange  in  the  lower  town,  and  the  ship  yards,  river  docks, 
and  manufactories  on  the  St.  Charles  river,  will  repay  a  visit 
if  your  stay  admits. 

LAVAL    UNIVfcWISITY 

was  established  under  Catholic  auspices,  but  is  open  to  stu- 
dents of  all  creeds  and  nations,  and  a  visit  thereto  is  of  great 
interest  to  people  of  culture.  In  the  provision  of  apparatus 
and  diagi'ams,  and  in  securing  the  highest  talent  in  its 
instructors  in  the  wide  range  of  sciences  which  the  student 
may  study  with  best  assistance,  and  in  facilities  afforded  to 
acquire  superior  instruction  in  the  learned  professions,  this 
institution  is  probably  second  to  none  in  the  States  or  Can- 
adas.  The  laboratories,  lecture  rooms,  cabinets  and  library 
are  superior  in  accommodation  and  unusual  in  extent.  In 
the  Seminary  Chapel,  attached  to  this  University,  are  the 
celebrated  paintings  by  Champagne  and  others,  and  in  the 
French  Cathedral  are  fine  productions  of  Vandyke  and 
others,  and  the  interior  of  this  old  church  is  of  rare  beauty. 

THE  PLAINS  OF    ABRAHAM 

will  receive  an  early  visit,  invested  as  they  are  with  historic 
interest  and  tragic  legends,  which  lapse  of  time  seems  only 


I   ir 


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NORTHERN   PLEASURE   TRAVEL. 


159 


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to  heighten  and  intensify  —  tl  .>  scene  of  the  most  daring 
military  manoeuvres  and  signal  victory  of  the  time.  On  the 
spot  where  Wolfe  fell,  on  this  noted  plain,  is  seen  the  modest 
monument  to  his  memory,  and  the  distance  to  the  path  by 
which  the  famed  ascent  of  his  army  was  made  is  not  great. 
It  is  somewhat  shorn  of  its  rugged  character  by  the  leveling 
effects  of  time  and  the  elements,  but,is  still  precipitous  and 
forbidding. 

ISLE  OF  ORLEANS. 

Do  not  omit,  during  your  stay,  to  cross,  by  the  feiTy  boat, 
to  this  fair  island,  and  take  the  drive  around  it,  which  offers 
that  continuous  and  varying  circuit  of  outlying  scenery  which 
you  can  ill  afford  to  miss,  including  views  of  the  Falls  of 
Montmorenci,  the  Laurentian  Mountains,  Cap-Tourment, 
(1,100  feet  in  height),  the  villages  upon  either  side  in  pictm*- 
esque  surroundings,  and  the  beauty  of  the  fair  isle  itself,  with 
the  broad  encircling  river  and  the  craft  upon  its  bosom,  and 
the  grand  old  city  of  the  north  in  the  distance — all  memora- 
ble points  in  the  history  of  the  olden  times. 

CHAUDIERE    FALLS, 

visited  via  Point  Levi,  on  the  river  of  the  same  name,  nine  ' 
miles  below  Quebec,  have  a  descent  of  one  hundred  and 
thirty  fe6t,the  river  being  four  hundred  feet  wide  at  this  point. 

FISHING. 

Those  making  Quebec  their  headquarters  for  excursions 
for  sporting,  can  easily  reach,  by  steamer  down  the  river,  in 
the  branches  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  or  in  the  Lakes  at  no  great 
distance  from  the  city,  unequalled  opportunity  for  the  exer- 
cise of  their  skill,  with  sure  promise  of  reward.  * 


th  historic 
jeems  only 


THE 


M^' 


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St.  Lawrence  M  Sapenay  Liie  of  Steamers 

PLYING  BETWEEN 

QUEBEC,  THE  RIVER  SAGUEMAY  and  the 

WATERLJ^Q  PLACES  of  the  Lower 

St.  Lawrence f 

Is  composed  of  the  First  Class  Soa-Ooing  Passenger  Steamers,  "•SAOUENAY," 
"ST.  LAWRENCE,"  and  "UNION." 


From  ubont  the  20th  of  Juno  to  the  10th  of  September,  one  of  the  above 
8te;im  )rs  will  leave  the  St.  Andrew's  wharf  daily  (Sundays  andMondays  exceptod) 
at  seven  o'clock,  A.M .^d  the  arrival  of  the  Montreal  boat. 

^i'Aoooiianiodation.,    First    Class, 

Charges  Moderate. 

Tickets  for  sale  at  all  principal  Ticket  Offices  in  the  States  and  Canada,  and  at 
the  Office  of  the  Company,  St  Andrew's  wharf,  Quebec. 
For  further  information,  apply  to 

A.   GABOURY, 

Secretary. 

TABLE    OF    DISTANCES 

ON  THE 


_ao 

S3  kI 

• 

t>»  . 

3 

Quebec, 

0 

■4J 

02 

O    S3 

urra 
Bay 

e3 

^ 

St.  Paul's  Bay,    ' 

55 

55 

S 

d 

i 

PQ 

Eboulementa, 

11 

11 

66 

05 

o 

s 

~ 

• 

Murray  Bay, 

16 

27 

16 

82 

C4 

O 

o 

e3 

•  ^4 

J 

Rivifere  du  Loup, 

30 

57 

46 

30 

112 

^ 

r"i 

a 

Cacouna,  passengers 
land  at  R.  du  Loup 

63 

52 

36 

6 

118 

e3 

8 

m 

•  a 
o 

Tadousac, 

22 

79 

68 

52 

22 

28 

134 

a 

Ha!  Ha!  Bay, 

72 

151 

140 

124 

94 

100 

72 

206 

P3 

Chicoutimi, 

28 

179 

168 

152 

122 

128 

100 

28 

234 

Riraouaki, 

23 

112 

96 

66 

178 

Note. — The  distance  of  any  place  in  above  table,  from  Quebec, 
will  be  found  at  the  head  of  the  column  under  its  name.  The 
distance  between  other  points  is  found  by  taking  the  name  of  one 
place  in  left  hand  column  and  following  the  line  to  its  intersection 
with  the  other  name  required. 


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IHtnd^potiaHy  A  Oo.,ltf||«riHat#  Map  InBr'siOliioaso. 


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OJF  THAT  JPAMT 

—^      OF  TUB      "-^ 


TRArmnsEn  :by  thb 


SA6UENAY  BOATS 


ad  Pleasure  Travel  Route ! 

Lake  Winnipesaukee» 


'      OF  THE  ^  (^ . 

Sjenay 


RIVER^ 


^ 


liAiJLF^ 


THAT  PAMT 


Off  TUB 


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rURSJED  -BY  THB 


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m 


TBCXl 


WHITE  MOUiWAINS, 

ASD    OTUKK 

MAGNIFICENT     SCKNERY! 

Montreal  &  Quebec. 


« •■»» 


This  Office  is  tfie  Headquarters  of  the 

SiGDENAT  LINE  of  STEHHEBS 


ly  BOSToy. 


«••»» 


d^TThe  Ticket  Seller  in  tins  office  has  had 
six  years  experience  in  Canada  with  American 
Pleasure  Travel ;  has  been  to  all  points  of  interest 
through9ut  the  country,  and  will  be  able  to  give 
the  most  reliable  information. 

Befoije  selecting  your  route  call  at  the 

Geneijal  Office,  94  Washington  St. 


LEVE 


<&  OUBE, 


O.LEVE. 


Paa*.  AflMtM* 


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/' 


CHAPTER  XIII. 


From  Quebec  to  the  Saguenay,  and  Scenery  op  the 

Saguenay. 


I 


The  tourist,  in  search  of  health  or  pleasure,  cannot  possibly 
select  any  route  better  calculated  to  meet  all  his  expectations, 
anil  to  present  that  peculiar  and  unusual  combination,  no- 
where else  found,  within  limits  easily  reached,  than  the  one 
here  described 

Leaving  Quebec  by  one  of  the  excellent  boats  named  on 
preceding  page,  the  journey  is  down  the  finest  portion  of  the 
grand  St.  Lawrence,  a  distance  of  about  one  hundred  and  fif- 
ty miles,  the  great  river,  in  many  places,  being  thirty  miles 
in  width. 

This  water  area,  of  four  thousand  square  miles,  is  dotted 
with  beautiful  islands ;  skirted  on  the  one  hand  by  towns  and 
villages,  on  the  other  by  lofty  mountains,  and  both  sides  con- 
stantly in  view,  making  the  line  of  approach  one  of  contin- 
ued charm. 

On  the  way  down  the  River,  the  mouth  of  the  river  St. 
Anne  will  be  passed,  oft'  the  lower  extremity  of  the  Island  of 
Orleans.  This  river  enters  the  larger  stream  through  a  bold 
ravine,  and  many  ascend  the  stream  for  a  short  distance  to 
the  Falls  of  St.  Anne,  which,  with  the  surroundings^  are  pleas- 
ing and  attractive. 

Thirty-six  miles  below  Quebec  is  a  group  of  six  small  isl- 
lands,  alive  with  geese,  ducks  and  teal,  who  make  this  a 
breeding  place. 

Tlie  Quarantine  Station  at  "  Grosse  Isle^^  deserves  a  pass- 


ie2 


NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


ing  notice — a  lovely  spot  of  itself,  quietly  sleeping  in  the  gi*e.it 
river,  but  a  very  charnel  house  in  the  past,  receiving,  in  the 
time  of  the  famine  in  Ireland,  six  thousand  emigrants  in  one 
huge  grave. 

The  river  widens  broader  and  broader  as  you  sail  on,  as 
upon  a  vast  inland  sea,  losing  sight  of  eitlior  shore.  Malbaie, 
ninety  miles  below  Quebec  on  the  north  shore,  is  a  halting 
station  and  place  of  pleasure  resort,  Murray  Bay  being  a  fash- 
ionable watering  place,  and  the  fine  fishing  in  Murray  River 
much  patronized.  The  river  here  is  about  twenty  miles  wide 
with  tides  of  nearly  20  ft.  rise.  Steaming  across  to  "  Riviere 
du  Loup,"  on  the  south  shore,  passengers  are  landed  within 
six  miles  of  Cacouna,  where  are  hotel  accommodations  of  the 
first  class,  and  facilities  for  eiyoyment  either  of  luxurious 
ease  or  active  sporting. 

Con  tinning  down  the  St.  Lawrence,  on  the  northern  shore, 
Tadousac  is  reached  at  the  mouth  of 


M^'f 


Tadousac  Bay, 


"»» 


■^1 


NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


163 


in  the 
i  in  one 

I  on,  as 
ialbaie, 
.  halting 
g  a  fash- 
ty  River 
iles  wide 
'  Riviere 
k\  within 
3ns  of  the 
luxurious 

avn  shore, 


that  vast  and  mysterious  rock  gorge,  tlu'ough  whicli  pour 
the  unfatiiomable  floods  of  the  mountain-shadowed 

SAGUENAY  KIVEU, 

the  largest  affluent  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  having  its  source 
in  Lake  St.  John,  and  a  straight  course  of  one  hundred  and 
thirty  miles  from  the  lake  to  the  St.  Lawrence.  The  upper 
half  of  its  course  is  a  series  of  falls  and  rapids,  navigable  only 
by  canoes,  and  flowing  through  a  dense  and  almost  unknown 
wilderness. 

The  navigable  portion  of  the  river  will  float  the  largest 
vessels  of  the  world,  from  its  mouth  some  ninety  miles  to 
the  head  of  navigation,  and  has  been  described  as  a  perfectly 
straight,  yawning  gulf,  torn  for  the  whole  distance  in  the 
grey  mica  schist  rising  on  either  hand  in  precipitous  clifls 
whose  bases  rest  in  unknown  depths — a  panorama  of  rocky 
walls  and  precipices — *'  no  sheltered  nooks  nor  coves,  no  fer- 
tile beaches — nowhere  a  margin  for  foot  to  rest  upon."  The 
continuous  ridges  on  either  hand  rise  to  an  elevation  of  1,000 
to   1,500  feet,   and  often    more.      The  wonderful    capes  — 


Cape  Trinity. 


164 


NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


I!    t 


M^ 


Ml 


Eternity  and  Trinity  rear  their  heads  to  an  altitude  of 
eighteen  hundred  feet,  and,  at  their  base,  the  river  has  a  depth 
of  600  fathoms.  This  whole  route  is  traversed  by  dayliyht;  the 
boats  are,  in  all  respects,  first-class,  and  nothing  is  wanting 
to  secure  the  comfort  of  passengers,  as  promised  in  the 
advertised  route.     (See  adv.,) 

The  largest  ships  may  ride  in  the  immense  depth  of  these 
waters.  The  sights  are  never  to  be  forgotten — bold,  barren, 
forbidding  and  awful.  The  discharge  of  a  cannon  on  ship- 
board between  the  bare  walls  of  rock,  is  said  to  crash  back 
in  echoes  which  no  one  could  wish  to  have  repeated,  one  such 
sensation  sufficing  for  a  lifetime. 

The  scenery  is  aptly  spoken  of  by  a  writer  as  *'  a  region  of 
primeval  grandeur,  where  art  has  done  nothing  and^nature 
everything;  where,  at  a  single  bound,  civilization  is  left 
behind,  and  nature  stands  in  unadorned  majesty ;  where  Alps 
on  Alps  arise ;  where,  over  unfathomable  depths,  through 
mountain  gorges,  the  steamer  ploughs  the  dark  flood  on 
which  no  sign  of  animal  life  appears." 


■i^if^'-- '  V 


Ha  Ha  Bay. 


NORTHERN    PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


165 


cle  of 
deptli 
it;  the 
inting 
in  the 

f  these 
aarren, 
n  ship- 
sh  back 
•ne  such 

egion  of 
il^nature 
1  is  left 
lere  Alps 
through 
flood  on 


-5!««*  :.''- 


''^ 


Ha-IIa  Bay,  a  quiet  and  lovely  bay  receding  from  the 
river  several  miles,  a  cheerful  village,  animal  life,  and  facili- 
ties for  amusement  are  here  found,  a  change  most  welcome 
from  the  sombre  desolation  of  the  ascent.  Lake  St.  John,  in 
wliich  the  river  has  its  source,  receives  the  flow  of  eleven 
large  rivers,  and  innumerable  smaller  streams,  from  the  vast 
water-shed  and  interminable  forests  surrounding  it,  but  dis- 
charges all  its  waters  l)y  this  wonderful  stream  through  miles 
of  wild  and  unnavigable  floods. 

Statue  Point  and  f^es  Tableux  are  noted  gems  of  scenery 
on  tlie  river,  a  perpendicular  rock  below  Ha-Ha  Bay,  at  the 
termination  of  a  great  plateau,  three  hundred  feet  wide  and 
six  hundred  feet  inhight.  The  village  of  Chicoutimi  is:ittl»e 
outlet  of  Lake  Kenokami,  with  the  Saguenay.  It  is  at  the 
head  of  navigation.  An  extensive  lumber  business  is  trans- 
acted here;  the  village  is  ancient  and  has  about  five  hundred 
inhabitants. 

Tadousac, 

tit  the  mouth  of  the  Saguenay,  has  a  fine  hotel  which  is 
excellently  kept,  and,  in  connection,  all  kinds  of  amusements 
for  visitors.  The  bathing  is  very  superior.  It  is  a  post  of 
the  Hudson  Bay  Company,  who  have  establishments  here  of 
consider.able  importance.  Here  was  the  residence  of  Pere 
Marquette,  who  explored  the  Mississippi  vall<;y.  The  vener- 
able church  is  two  and  a  half  centuries  old.  This  was  one  of 
the  first  places  on  the  river  fortified  by  the  French.  The  first 
permanent  stone  building  erected,  at  any  northern  locality  on 
the  continent,  was  here  built. 

We  are  not  competent  to  write  of  this  desolately  grand  and 
awfully  majestic  region  with  the  intelligent  criticism  of  the 
scientific,  or  the  enthusiasm  of  the  geologist.  Ere  long, 
some  one,  equal  to  the  task,  will  explore  its  grandly  dismal 
reaches,  bringing  to  bear  upon  its  wonderful  characteristics 
the  light  of  science,  while,  by  a  wild  and  nomadic  life,  in  that 
unexplored  continent  around  and  beyond  its  sources,  a 
volume  of  travel  shall  result,  more  interesting  in  its  revela- 
tions of  northern  wonders  than  are  the  charming  works  of 


h'V 


3  i 


i!-' 


■    / 


MuuTii  OF  Sagueney  and  Pt.  Maugukite,  Tadousac 


NORTHERN   PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


167 


Dii  Challiu  or  the  mysterious  journeys  of  the  lamented 
Livingston,  in  other  and  more  distant  lands. 

Few  realize  the  vastness  of  that  wild  and  almost  limitless 
north,  stretching  from  habitable  limits  up  to  the  icy  realms 
of  the  polar  regions,  yet  to  be  made  familiar  by  exploration 
and  charming  narrative,  and  to  which,  one  of  these  grandest 
passages  will  be  the  forbidding  pass  through  which  the  inky 
floods  Of  the  unmeasured  Saguenay  find  outlet  to  the  sea. 

Salmon -fishing  in  the  tributaries  of  the  Saguenay  is  the 
favorite  sport  of  visitors — the  salmon  and  the  seal  are  almost 
the  only  living  denizens  of  the  solitary  stream. 

From  this  trip  the  tourist  will  return  with  the  feeling  that 
he  has  looked  upon  an  aspect  of  nature  more  novel  than  any 
other  upon  the  continent — a  vast  landscape  and  water  course 
in  the  rough,  with  all  the  touches  of  beauty  and  elaborations 
of  animated  nature  left  out — a  creation  vast  and  grand  but 
incomplete — a  chaos  of  forms  and  material — the  skeleton 
ribs  and  bones  of  a  highland  region,  left  bare  and  bleaching 
by  arrested  creative  forces. 

Take,  by  all  means,  this  trip,  not  in  expectation  of  finding 
a  smiling  paradise  and  lurking  beauty,  but  its  reverse — the 
barely  grand  and  simply  majestic. 

From  Tadousac,  you  can  return  by  boat  to  Quebec,  or  by 
rail  from  Riviere  du  Loup  to  Point  Levi,  there  connecting 
with  the  system  of  railways  threading  every  portion  of  the 
Canadas  and  New  England.  The  boat  route  gives  by  far  the 
greatest  variety  of  scenejy  and  experience  to  the  traveler, 
who  has  an  eye  to  the  picturesque  and  novel  in  nature. 


I    h 


♦    h 


l-\ 


J 


11)  I 


CHAPTER  XIV. 


SCENERY   AND   LOCALITIES   IN   NORTHERN 

VERMONT. 


From  Wells  River,  where  the  Boston,  Concord.  Montreal 
and  White  Mountains  Railroad,  Connecticut  River  Railroad 
from  below,  the  Passumpsic  River  Railroad  northward,  and 
the  Wells  River  and  Montpelier  Railroad  westward,  all  form 
a  junction,  the  tourist  may,  by  taking  the  train  over  the 
Passumpsic  River  Railroad,  pass  northward  to  interesting 
and  picturesque  localities,  in  northern  Vermont.  The  route 
is  up  the  valley  of  the  Connecticut  River,  which  leaves  at 
Barnet;  thence  following  the  valley  of  the  winding  and  rapid 
Passumpsic,  which,  with  the  adjacent  country,  all  who  have 
an  eye  for  the  picturesque  and  pastoral,  in  a  succession  of 
flying  landscapes,  will  view  with  continual  pleasure.  Pull- 
man palace  sleeping  cars  are  run,  and  one  can  sup  in  Boston, 
take  a  berth  in  a  sleeping  car,  and  rise  to  a  breakfast  of  lake 
trout  at  Newport  in  the  morning. 

ST.  JOHNSBURY, 

twenty  miles  from  Wells  River,  is  one  of  the  finest  of  Ver- 
mont towns,  noted  for  its  thrift,  entei-prise,  romantic  situa- 
tion, and  importance  as  a  manufacturing  centre.  At  this 
point  the  Portland  and  Ogdensburg  Railroad  intersects  the 
Passumpsic  line.  The  Vermont  division  of  this  new  line  is 
already  running  westward  and  eastward,  and  passengers  may 
leave  St.  Johnsbury  for  Mount  Mansfield  by  this  new  route, 
going  by  rail  to  Morrisville  and  Hydepark.  (See  following 
pag^s.) 


RN 


Icntrcal 

ard,  and 
all  form 
)vcr  the 
teresting 
the  route 
eaves  at 
nd  rapid 
ivho  luivc 
ssion  of 

3.   ruu- 

Boston, 
it  of  lake 


Lt  of  Ver- 
[tic  sitiia- 

At  this 
[rsects  the 

V  line  is 
Lgers  may 
lew  route, 
1  following 

I 


NORTHERN   PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


169 


At  the  Avenue  House,  opposite  the  depot,  you  will  find  first 
class  accommodations,  and  the  gentlemanly  and  obliging 
proprietor,  Geo.  H.  Aldrich,  will  make  your  stay  a  pleasant 
one. 

A  stay  of  a  day  at  St.  Johnsbury  will  be  a  day  well  spent, 
ami  the  Scale  Works  of  the  Messrs.  Fairbanks  are  the  feature 
of  the  town.  The  extensive  manufacture  of  every  class  of 
scales,  from  the  immense  dock  and  railroad  scale  to  the  tiny 
balance  of  the  banker,  all  equally  nice  in  ac\jus1mcnt,  and 
correct  in  plan  of  construction,  is  here  carried  on  by  skilled 
workmen,  directed  by  indomitable  energy,  and  true  business 
tact  and  honor.  It  would  seem  strange  that  the  iron  of  Mis- 
souri and  Pennsylvania  should  be  sent  to  this  point,  far  up 
among  the  hills,  to  be  fashioned  for  use  by  Yankee  workmen, 
and  returned  to  weigh  the  virgin  ore ;  but  such  is  the  case, 
and  it  is  one  of  the  curious  facts  in  manufacture  and  ex- 
change. This  is  the  shire  town  of  Caledonia  county,  it  is  the 
important  centre  of  northwestern  Vermont,  has  fine  county 
and  school  buildings,  beautiful  natural  surroundings,  and  an 
industrious  and  fast  increasing  population.  The  prospective 
increase  of  railroad  facilities  by  the  assured  completion  of 
the  railway  to  Portland,  through  the  heart  of  the  White 
Mountains,  cannot  fail  to  add  to  ito  prosperity  and  importance. 

Few  places,  of  its  population,  in  the  country,  h.ave  so  many 
of  the  desirable  institutions  and  luxuries  usually  supposed  to 
be  found  only  in  the  large  and  wealthy  cities ;  for  this  reason, 
as  well  as  its  healthy  location  and  pleasant  surroundings, 
with  the  acknowledged  public  spirit  of  its  manufacturers  and 
people,  the  village  is  desirable  for  residence  for  people  of 
leisure  as  well  as  a  favorable  point  for  business. 

Continuing  northward  from  St.  Johnsbury,  just  before 
reaching  Lyndon,  you  will  notice  one  of  those  charming  wa- 
terfalls which  so  often  break  the  flow  of  the  rapid  Passumpsic 
River.  At  Lyndonville  are  the  repair  and  construction  shops 
of  this  important  railway  line,  and  a  gi'owing  country  town. 
West  Burke,  thirty-seven  miles  from  Wells  River,  is  the  stji- 
tion  from  which  passengers  leave,  by  stage  line,  for  Lake 
Willoughby.    Burke  Mountain,  a  bold  elevation  of  2,000  feet. 


170 


NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


•     t 


will  be  observed  to  the  right  us  you  approach  this  station,  and 
a  good  view  of  the  eastern  wall  of  Lake  Willoughby  is  had 
as  you  near  this  point. 

WILLOUGHBY  LAKE. 

The  hotel  at  this  lake  is  six  miles  distant  from  the  West 
Burke  Station;  conveyance  may  be  had  at  the  hotel  at  this 
point  for  the  lake,  and  no  doubt  a  regular  stage  line  will  bo 
run  in  the  season  of  pleasure  travel.  This  wonderful  sheet 
of  water  lies  between  two  lofty  mountain  walls,  evidently 
once  united,  but  torn  asunder  by  some  terrible  convulsion  of 
nature  in  remote  ag(?s.  The  surface  of  the  lake  is  nearly 
twelve  hundred  feet  above  sea  level,  and  the  mountain  walls 
tower  on  either  side  to  the  height  of  nearly  two  thousand 
feet  above  the  lake.  Under  these  frowning  walls  on  the  nar- 
row bank  threads  the  roadway. 

Mount  Willoughby  or  Annanance,  the  eastern  wall,  is 
nearly  two  thousand  feet  in  height,  and  Mount  Ilor,  on  the 
western  side,  is  of  somewhat  less  elevation.  From  the  sum- 
mit of  these  heights  you  may  look  to  the  southeast  upon  the 
White  and  Franconia  Mountains,  westward  to  the  bold  peaks 
and  ranges  of  the  Green  Mountains,  northward  into  theCan- 
adas,  and  southward  along  the  wide  valley  between  the  great 
mountain  ranges. 

At  one  point  from  this  height  you  can  look  down,  a  sheen* 
descent  of  2,500  feet,  upon  the  pure,  transparent  waters  of  the 
lake  below,  visible  in  its  every  outline  and  feature. 

The  Willoughby  Lake  House  is  a  commodious  hotel  ac- 
commodating a  hundred  guests,  finely  situated,  overlookin<5 
the  lake  to  the  northward. 

We  will  now  continue  by  rail  from  West  Burke  northward. 

Irasburg,  a  favorite  resort  for  those  loving  the  quiet  of  the 
pretty  village,  near  the  Lowell  Mountains,  is  reached  by 
staging  from  Barton's  Landing,  three  and  one-half  miles, 
and,  continuing  on,  at  sixty-five  miles  north  of  Wells  River 
the  pretty  village  of  Newport  comes  into  view,  the  inviting 
exterior  of  the  Memphremagog  House,  close  by  the  railroad 
station  gladdens  the  eyes  of  tired  travelers,  and  the  calm 
waters  of  Lake  Memphremagog,  with  the  fine  steamer  at  the 


II 


NORTHERN   PLEASURE   TRAVEL. 


171 


Isimling,  give  promise  of  eiyoyment  and  comfort  in  prospect. 

NEWPORT 

is  the  station  from  which  the  attractions  of  the  lake  are 
reached,  and  is  a  cheery,  pleasant  village  in  the  midst  of 
grand  and  varied  scenery,  where  the  summer  heats  are  tem- 
p(!red  by  the  cool  breeze  from  the  placid  lake.  Its  older  in- 
habitants may  perhaps  **a  tale  unfold"  of  smuggling  in  the 
oU^en  time,  but,  since  the  village  has  become  importjmt  as  a 
railway  and  business  centre  the  old  order  of  things  has 
passed  away  and  *'  ways  that  are  vain  "  no  longer  engage  the 
attention  of  the  busy  populace. 

From  the  slight  eminence,  to  the  south  of  the  village, 
known  as  Prospect  Hill,  you  may  overlook  the  country  for 
miles  in  every  direction.  In  the  early  morning  or  at  close  of 
day  the  view  of  the  lake  with  its  irregular  outline,  many 
islands  and  the  changing  hues  imparted  by  the  rising  or  set- 
ting sun,  is  peculiarly  fine  from  this  elevation.  Jay's  Peak, 
Willoughby  Mountain  and  the  high  summits  of  Mount  Or- 
ford,  Mount  Elephantis  and  Owl's  Head  are  all  seen  to 
advantage. 

THE  MEMPHIlEMAGOa  HOUSE 

is  a  fine,  spacious  and  well  kept  hotel,  within  a  stone's  throw 
of  the  railway  station  and  the  steamboat  landing,  on  the 
shores  of  the  lake.  It  is  of  five  stories,  will  accommodate 
four  hundred  guests,  and  the  outlook  from  its  extensive  bal- 
conies towards  the  lake,  upon  the  peak  of  Owl's  Head,  which 
looms  into  view,  and  the  surrounding  scenery,  is  attractive 
to  the  visitor  from  the  dust,  heat  and  noise  of  the  crowded 
city,  and  a  promenade  in  the  quiet  evening  hour  along  its 
ample  verandas  is  one  of  the  delights  of  summer  travel. 
The  attractive  exterior  of  the  house  is  well  represented  in 
the  engi'aving.  W.  F.  Bowman,  Esq.,  is  a  gentlemanly  and 
experienced  landlord  Sail  and  row-boats  are  furnished  by 
the  landlord  at  any  time  to  suit  the  wants  and  tastes  of  ex- 
cursionists or  sportsmen,  and  for  the  fine  drives  hereabouts 
good  teams  may  be  had.  The  drive  to  the  summit  of  Jay's 
Peak,  in  the  towns  of  Westfield  and  .Jay,  thirteen  miles  dis- 


172 


NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


tant,  is  one  which  all  should  take.  A  list  of  drives,  with 
distances,  is  conspicuously  placed  in  the  hotel.  The  village 
of  Stanstead,  just  over  the  Canada  line,  is  often  visited,  and 
Clyde  and  Coventry  Falls  are  within  easy  driving  distance. 
Despite  all  other  attractions  your  greatest  interest  will  cen- 
tre in  the 

BOAT  TRIP  DOWN  THE   LAKE. 

Lake  Memphremagog,  two-thirds  of  which  lies  in  Canadi.m 
Dominions,  is  the  charming  I'ival  of  Lake  George,  which  it 


"^ 


NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


173 


iS,  \\ 


village 
jted,  and 
llisUnce. 


roscmblos  in  conformation.  Its  length  is  thirty  miloa,  tho 
breadth  Hl)out  two  miles,  widening  in  some  portions  to  six 
miles.  The  bold,  roek-bonnd  shores,  numerous  wooded  is- 
lands, the  shadowing  peaks  of  lofty  mountains,  rising,  in 
some  cases,  to  3,000  feet  in  height,  with  slopes  of  luxurious 
forest  and  greenest  verdure,  serve  but  to  heighten  the  charm 
of  this  "  Beautiful  Water,"  supplied  from  the  pure,  cold 
streams  of  the  surrounding  mountains. 

The  new,  staunch,  iron  steamer,  "  Lady  of  the  Lake,"  one 
hundred  and  seventy  feet  in  length,  and  a  model  of  neatness 
and  convenience,  leaves  the  landing  near  the  hotel  and  rail- 
way depot  each  morning  at  about  eight  o'clock,  also  after 
diimer  for  the  second  trip,  the  run  being  made  in  three  hours 
each  way.  Her  commander,  Capt.  Fogg,  has  for  a  lifetime 
known  every  point  upon  these  waters,  and  can  give  valuable 
information  or  amuse  you  with  stories  and  legends  innumer- 
able, pertaining  to  the  old  time  history  of  this  wild  and 
secluded  region.  The  zigzag  course  of  the  steamer  giv(}8 
you  a  trip  of  nearly  fifty  miles  sailing  from  Newport  to  the 
village  at  the  northern  outlet — Magog— a  Canadian  hamlet 
with  a  background  of  forest  extending  to  Mount  Orford. 

Space  will  forbid  the  attempt  even  to  notice  all  the  places 
and  objects  of  interest  around  this  lovely  sheet  of  water, 
lying  in  its  narrow,  deep  and  shadowed  basin. 

It  will  be  observed  that  the  eastern  shores  are  fertile  and 
sparsely  populated  with  a  farming  community  ;  the  western 
shore  is  more  bold  and  abrupt,  rising,  in  many  places  in 
frowning  bluifs  of  several  hundred  feet  elevation.  The 
small  Canadian  village  of  Cedarville,  in  Stanstead,  is  on  the 
eastern  side,  so  named  from  the  surrounding  cedar  groves, 
and  beyond  is  Fitch's  Bay  with  the  island  at  its  entrance. 
You  now  approach  the  bold  peak  of 

owl's  head, 
a  name  applied  to  many  summits  in  the  mountains,  with 
what  show  of  propriety  you  must  judge.    This  is  a  regular 
cone-like  summit.    Leaving 

ROUND  ISLAND, 

a  cedar  crowned  swell  of  rock-bound  land,  rising  from  the 


■  '"M: 


174 


NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


lake,  about  a  half  mile  from  the  base  of  Owl's  Head,  which 
you  are  now  approaching,  the  boat  lands  you  in  a  few  min- 
utes at  the  wharf  of  that  land-locked  and  mountain-shadowed 
hotel,  the  Mountain  House.  The  view  of  the  lake  from 
this  hotel  is  splendid,  and  the  facilities  for  fishing  and  sport- 
ing attract  that  class  of  tourists  in  large  numbers.  The 
ascent  of  Owl's  Head  is  made  from  that  hotel.  There  are 
curious  and  prominent  way  marks  on  the  ascent  and  the 
prospect  is  grand  and  extensive,  extending,  with  favorable 
weather,  to  Montreal  and  the  great  St.  Lawrence  River,  over 
the  whole  extent  of  the  lake  and  the  cluster  of  lakes,  ponds 
and  system  of  rivers,  with  the  ranges,  peaks  and  villages 
around  the  wide  sweep  of  view. 

Eastward  from  the  Mountain  House,  near  the  eastern  shore, 
is  Skinner's  Island,  and  on  its  northeastern  shore  is  Skin- 
ner's Cave,  a  narrow  den  in  the  rock,  some  thirty  feet  deep. 
The  legend  of  Uriah  Skinner,  the  bold  *'  Smuggler  of  Ma- 
gog," is  too  long  for  our  pages,  but  'tis  said  he  took  refuge 
from  pursuit  in  this  cave  and  there  perished,  hence  the  name 
of  "Skinner's  Cave,"  and  grave. 

Steaming  northward  from  this  point  the  great  mountains 
rear  their  huge  masses  into  view.  Owl's  Head,  Sugar  Loaf, 
or  Mount  Elephantis,  the  Hog's  Back,  and,  away  in  the  dis- 
tance. Jay's  Peak.  Meanwhile,  Long  Island,  with  its  bold 
shores,  has  been  passed,  and  on  its  southern  line  is  the  famous 


f  ,s, 


I 

! 
I 


balance  kock, 

a  huge  granite  mass,  balanced  upon  a  point  close  to  the  wa- 
ter's edge,  an  object  of  interest  to  the  learned  and  the  curi- 
ous. The  eastern  shores  are  now  abrupt,  and  residences  of 
wealthy  Canadians  crown  the  heights.  Molson,  the  Mon- 
treal banker,  has  here  his  summer  residence,  and  is  the  pro- 
prietor of  an  island  near  the  eastern  shore. 

Georgeville  is  a  place  of  some  importance,  where  stop,  is 
made  for  the  mails,  and  you  steam  across  to  the  western 
shore  to  Knowlton's  Landing.  Stage*  run  from  this  point  to 
Waterloo,  on  the  Stanstead  and  Chambly  Railroad,  where 
cars  may  be  taken  for  Montreal   and  intermediate  points. 


NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


175 


PI 


which 
V  min- 
fcdowed 
e  from 

I  sport- 
3.  The 
leve  are 
and  the 
tvorahle 
rer,  over 
s,  ponds 

villages 

vn  shore, 
is  Skin- 
feet  deep. 
31-  of  Ma- 
ok  refuge 
the  name 

mountains 

II  gar  Louf, 
in  the  dis- 
th  its  hold 
:he  famous 


Ito  the  wa- 
__  the  curi- 
[sidences  of 
the  Mon- 
is  the  pro- 

iere  stop- is 
(he  western 
Ihis  point  to 
load,  where 
liate  points. 


Steaming  on  from  this  landing,  and  rounding  the  bold,  rocky 
promontory  of  Gibraltar  Point,  you  have  a  wide  view,  with 

MOUNT  ORFOKD 

in  the  distance  —  the  highest  summit  of  Lower  Canada,  3,300 
feet  elevation,  distant  five  miles  from  the  village  of  Magog, 
and  may  be  ascended  by  carriage  roadway  to  the  summit. 

MAGOG, 

or  Outlet  Village,  is  the  terminal  point  of  the  trip  —  a  true 
Canadian  settlement.  The  Parks  House  affords  you  enter- 
tainment, but  good  dinners  may  be  obtained  on  the  boat. 
Passengers  can  here  take  the  stage  line  to  Sherbrooke,  on  the 
Grand  Trunk  Railway,  (a  ride  of  sixteen  miles  around  Mount 
Orford)  or  to  Waterloo,  (twenty-one  miles,)  on  the  Shefford 
and  Chambly  Railroad. 

But  most  of  those  who  came  with  us  will  make  the  return 
trip  to  Newport,  viewing  the  fine  scenery  along  the  sliores  in 
reverse  order,  and  continue  their  journey  to  Montreal  by 

THE  SOUTH-EASTERN  RAILWAY, 

a  new  line  from  Newport,  shortening  the  distance  and  saving 
time  to  the  tourist,  and  affording  to  through  passengers  from 
the  Connecticut  valley,  especially  from  its  northern  portion, 
and  from  the  White  Mountains,  a  short  and  direct  route 
to  the  Canadian  metropolis.  This  route  is  along  the  valley 
of  the  Clyde  River,  via  Richford,  West  Farnham  and  St. 
Johns  to  Montreal,  through  the  Victoria  Bridge.  Trains  are 
now  run  in  connection  with  the  Connecticut  and  Passump- 
sic  Express  Line  (no  change  of  cars),  and  afford  all  the 
accommodations  and  improvements  demanded  by  first 
class  through  travel.  The  old  Passumpsic  line  northward 
runs  along  the  Massawippi  valley,  by  the  shores  of  Massa- 
wippi  Lake,  uniting  at  Sherbroke  with  the  Grand  Trunk  line 
for  Montreal,  Quebec  and  intermediate  points.  The  scenery 
upon  any  of  the  Canadian  lines  is  not  sufficiently  attractive 
to  merit  extended  description. 


».4J 


-jn 


r 


CHAPTER  XV. 


The  Vermont  Division  op  the  Portland  and  Ogdens- 

BURG  Rail  Road. 


This  new  line,  extending  westward  from  St.  Johnsbury, 
through  Danville,  Waklen,  Hard  wick,  Greer  -boro,  Woleott 
Morristown  and  Hyde  Park  (the  present  terr  us)  and  east- 
ward, through  Concord,  Dalton  and  other  towns  to  White- 
field  on  the  B.  C.  &  M.  R.  R.  (a  portion  of  this  latter  route 
still  incomplete,)  is  eventually  to  become  an  important  link 
in  a  great  through  route  from  the  west  to  tide-water  at  Port- 
land by  the  short,  direct,  and  central  northern  line  via.  Og- 
densburg  and  the  White  Mountain  Notch.  This  division  of 
the  line  passes  through  a  territory  heretofore  lacking  railway 
fjicilities,  and,  in  many  localities  picturesque  and  d'esirable 
for  summer  residence. 

Our  space  forbids  extended  description  of  the  many  local- 
ities in  this  region  so  lately  opened  to  the  tide  of  travel.    The 
giinc3ral  aspect  of  the  country  is  very  deversified,  the  railway 
line  abounding  in  cuts  and  fills  and  extensive  trestle  works. 

MORRISVILLE, 

is  a  village  in  Lamoille  County  which  has  become  a  place  of 
considerable  resort  for  parties  seeking  rural  quiet,  and  is  al- 
so a  point  of  departure  for  Mt.  Mansfield.    But,  at 

HYDE  PARK, 

fifby-two  miles  from  St.  Johnsbury,  by  rail  west,  the  present 
western  terminus  of  this  railway  line,  and  the  shire  town  ,of 


T{ 


NORTHERN   PLEASURE  TRAVEL 


177 


)GDENS- 


hnsbury, 

Wolcott 
and  oast- 
o  White- 
;ter  route 
rtant  link 
51-  at  Povt- 
3  via.  Og- 
ivision  of 
<r  railway 
tl'csirable 

|any  local- 
vel.    The 

Ihe  railway 
;tle  works. 


a  place  of 
and  is  al- 


|,he  present 
:e  town  ,of 


the  picturesque  Lamoille  County,  is  to  be  the  pleasure  resort 
of  this  attractive  region.  The  village  is  beautifully  located 
more  than  one  hundred  feet  above  the  sparkling  Lamoille 
River,  and  eighty  feet  above  the  road-bed  of  the  railway,  in 
the  centre  of  the  loveliest  scenery  in  Vermont. 


The  Ameuican  Hotel, 

owned  and  kept  by  Col.  E.  B.  Sawyer,  late  of  the  Vermont 
Cavalry,  is  about  eighty  rods  from  the  depot,  affording  a  fine 
view  of  the  beautiful  and  romantic  scenery  of  the  region. 
The  observatory  of  the  house  commands  a  n  extensive  view 
of  the  grand  natural  amphitheatre,  of  which  this  valley  is 
the  centre,  extending  from  Jay's  Peak  to  Camel's  Hump. 

Thi  i  is  a  well  kept  and  in  every  respect  first-class  hotel, 
wheio  pati'ons  can  but  enjoy  their  stay.  The  township  has, 
nestling  in  quiet  beauty  among  its  many  hills,  fourteen  nat- 
ural lakes  and  ponds,  which,  with  the  fair  Lamoille,  Gihon 
and  Green  Rivers,  and  the  numerous  brooks,  afford  rare  sport 
to  those  skilled  in  the  delicate  art  of  enticing  the  wai*y  and 
beautiful  trout  from  their  cool  and  quiet  haunts. 

Amount  mansfield, 

the  Bridge,  Pulpit  and  Moss  Glen  Falls,  with  the  numer- 
ous healing  mineral  springs,  and  many  other  points  of  inter- 


178 


NORTHERN   PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


(lif 


l!: 


5«\' 


It. 


est,  are  conveniently  near,  and  easily  accessible,  over  the 
best  of  country  roads.  Good  teams  are  ready  at  all  times  to 
carry  passengers  to  any  point. 

The  healthfulness  of  the  pure,  bracing  mountain  air  and 
sparkling  water  of  this  town  is  unquestioned.  The  County 
buildings  arejocated  here,  and  the  Tillage  is  the  political  and 
business  centre  of  the  surrounding  country.  Two  hotels,  a 
National  Bank,  a  good  newspaper,  and  school,  with  several 
shops  displaying  a  good  variety  of  merchandise,  make  it  a 
live  and  attractive  village.^ 

MoLNT  IVIaksfield  is  the  grand  feature  in  the  landscape. 
The  bold  summits  of  this  noble  eminence  are  thought  to 
represent  in  their  peculiar  outline  the  features  of  the  human 
face,  looking  upward  forever  from  the  firm  base  of  the  ever- 
lasting hills.  The  "forehead,"  "nose"  and  "chin"  being 
represented  by  separate  elevations  of  the  great  mass.  The 
chin  is  the  most  prominent,  being  4,350  feet  above  sea  level, 
the  forehead  only  3,850  feet,  while  the  nose  rises  one  hundred 
and  sixty  feet  above  the  forehead,  perhaps  the  only  nose  upon 
which  an  "  extra"  inch  would  be  hardly  noticeable.  Climb- 
ing to  the  point  of  the  nose,  a  rocky  knob  of  Cromwellian 
proportions  in  this  immense  portrait,  you  overlook  a.  reach 
of  view  scarcely  sui'passed  in  grandeur  and  sublimity.  Lake 
Champlain  and  the  Adirondacks,  the  St.  Lawrence  valley, 
Montreal  and  the  mountains  of  Canada,  and  around  Lake 
Memphremagog,  the  White  and  Franconia  Mountains  to  the 
eastward,  and  the  broken  ranges  of  hills  and  mountains  and 
silver  lines  of  rivers  within  the  State.  Your  guide  will  duly 
explain  to  you  the  many  localities,  and  the  scientific  will  l»e 
interested  in  the  "  testimony  of  the  rocks  "  on  these  high 
peaks,  giving  evidence  of  former  submergence. 

All  these  points  of  interest  can  be  reached  from  Hydepark 
as  cheaply  as  from  the  southern  approach  via  Waterbury 
and  Stowe ;  they  may  also  be  reached  fi'om  MoiTisville,  the 
next  station  east  of  Hydepark,  on  this  line.  There  is  also  a 
new  and  safe  carriage  road  to  the  summit  of  Mt.  Mansfield, 
and  the  expense  of  the  journey  is  the  same  as  from  Stowe, 
on  the  other  side. 


■rt 


r  the 
nesto 

ir  and 
:;ounty 
jal  and 
jtels,  a 
several 
ke  it  a 

idscape. 

lUght  to 

5  human 

he  ever- 

i"  being 

88.    The 

jea  ley  el, 

hundred 

tose  upon 

I    Climb- 

aiwellian 

k  p.  reach 

ty.    Lake 
•e  valley, 
ind  Lake 
ins  to  the 
itains  and 
will  duly 
Re  will  be 
ese  high 

JHydepark 

Taterbury 

Isville,  the 

le  is  also  a 

[ansfield, 

km  Stowe, 


CHAPTER  XVL 


From  Wells  River  to  Montpelier,  the  State  Capital, 

THENCE  westward  TO  LAKE  ChAMPLAIN,  LaKB 

George  and  Saratoga  Springs. 


This  route  gives  railway  facilities  to  a  section  of  country 
heretofore  destitute,  passes  through  a  fertile  region  rich  in 
agricultural  products  and  lumber,  landing  the  passenger  in 
the  heart  of  the  State,  at  the  old  capital  town  of  Montpelier. 

On  this  new  route  the  town  of  Marshfield  is  one  of  import- 
ance, the  village  being  distant  about  a  mile  from  the  station. 
Here  are  valuable  water-powers  utilized  for  lumber  manu- 
facture.  Many  fine  trout  ponds  are  within  short  distances, 
and  **  MoUy^s  Falls,"  a  short  distance  from  the  village,  is  a 
fine  descent  of  water  of  some  two  hundred  feet  fall,  with 
attractive  surrounding  scenery.  It  will  be  a  place  of  resort 
in  the  warm  season.  Ryegate,  Groton,  Peacham  and  Plahi- 
field  are  intersected  on  the  way  to 

MONTPELIER, 

which  is  distant  thirty-eight  miles,  by  rail,  from  Wells  River. 
This  old  New  England  capital,  with  its  substantial  public 
buildings,  fine  location  in  the  valley  of  the  Winooski  River, 
surrounded  by  hills,  firom  which  you  look  upon  wide  land- 
scapes peculiar  to  the  Mountain  Commonwealth,  should  be 
visited  by  all.  The  Capitol  building  is  a  fine  gi'anite  struct- 
ure of  elaborate  architecture  and  pleasing  design.  The  rooms, 
where  are  collected  the  geological  specimens  from  every  sec- 
tion of  the  State,  and  documents  and  articles,  ancient,  curi- 


^A 


NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


181 


ous  and  rare,  relating  to  the  history  of  the  State,  should  be 
visited  by  all  whose  time  admits.  There  are  three  insurance 
companies,  two  national  banks,  manufacturing  in  consider- 
able variety,  and  the  church  edifices  are  among  the  finest  in 
the  state.  The  Vermont  Central  Railroad  does  not  enter  the 
village,  but  is  reached  by  a  branch  road  of  one  and  one-half 
miles  in  length. 

bishop's  hotel, 

H.  H.  Bishop,  Esq.,  proprietor,  is  one  of  the  old  land  marks 
of  the  capital,  and  beneath  its  ancient  roof  the  traveller,  or 
tourist,  may  always  find  substantial  comfort. 

The  drives  in  the  vicinity  are  charming.  From  many 
points,  at  no  great  distance  from  the  village,  grand  views  of 
the  Winooski  valley  open  to  view — tine  pictures  of  mountain 
ranges  and  smiling  valleys,  the  charm  of  which  time  only 
will  dispel.  Leaving  the  capital  and  passing  northward  the 
central  line  runs  along  the  valley  of  the  Winooski,  and 

WATERBURY, 

the  Mount  Mansfield  stage  station  of  this  road,  is  reached — a 
fine  summer  resort  in  the  wide  valley,  lying  among  the  great 
hills  and  mountains.  Drives  from  here  to  the  natural  bridge 
at  Bolton  Falls,  three  miles,  and  to  Camel's  Hump,  eight 
miles,  are  attractive. 

The  Waterbury  Eotelis  an  "hostelrie"  of  good  repute  and 
deserved  popularity,  over  which  the  proprietor  presides  by 
right  of  his  ability  to  do  what  many  cannot,  that  is  "keep  a 
hotel."  The  accommodations  are  for  one  hundred  guests 
and  the  house  affords  a  fine  place  of  resort  for  pleasure- 
seekers.  ^ 

The  trip  from  Waterbury  to  the  pleasant  village  of 

STOWE, 

ten  miles  distant,  at  the  base  of  Mount  Mansfield,  is  made 
by  staging  in  the  royal  style  of  the  olden  time,  in  coaches 
drawn  by  six  white  horses.  This  pleasant  village  is  flanked 
by  mountains,  and  here  visitors  are  provided  with  teams. 


ii  1 


182 


NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


guides  and  all  needful  help  for  the  ascent.  Situated  in  this 
pleasant  locality  is 

THE  MOUNT   MANSFIELD  HOUSE, 

calculated  to  accommodate  four  hundred  guests ;  it  is  spacious 
and  commodious  in  all  its  arrangements  and  appointments 
and  the  stables  and  alleys  connected  are  on  a  liberal  scale. 
The  proprietors  are  not  to  be  out-done  in  their  attentions  to 
guests.  N.  P.  Keeler,  Esq.,  is  the  experienced  and  popular 
manager. 

The  walks  and  drives  cannot  be  surpassed.  A  short  dis- 
tance from  the  hotel,  Sunset  Hill  commands  a  fine  view  of 
the  surrounding  country.  The  drives  to  *•  Smuggler's  Notch," 
the  most  wild  and  romantic  mountain  gorge  in  New  Eng- 
land, eight  miles;  Bingham's  Falls,  five  miles;  Moss  Glen 
Falls,  three  and  one-half  miles ;  Gold  Brook,  three  miles ; 
West  Hill,  two  miles ;  Morrisville  Falls  and  Johnson's  Falls, 
eight  and  twelve  miles  respectively,  are  a  series  of  excur- 
sions which  can  but  afford  pleasure  to  patrons  of  this  house. 
A  carriage  road  has  been  constructed  to  the  summit  of  Mount 
Mansfield,  eight  miles  distant. 

The  Summit  House  is  the  hotel,  under  the  western  side  of 
the  nose,  affording  substantial  comfort  to  one  hundred  guests. 
This  ascent,  in  its  whole  course,  is  one  of  continuous  inter- 
est; the  wildness  and  grandeur  of  the  scenery,  and  the  nov- 
elty of  experience  upon  the  route,  amply  repay  all  expense 
incurred  or  fatigue  experienced  in  the  journey. 

Reluctantly  leaving  this  magnificent  prospect  and  return- 
ing to  Stowe,  and,  from  thence,  after  resting,  to  the  railroad 
at  Waterbury,  you  continue  the  journey  northward.  Cars 
may  be  left  at  Ridley's  station,  where  conveyance  can  be  had 
for  *A  Camel's  Hump,"  a  lone  summit  only  six  miles  distant, 
so  named  from  the  peculiar  outline  of  its  form  seen  from  a 
distance ;  and,  next  to  Mansfield,  the  noticeable  summit  of 
the  State. 

AT  ESSEX  JUNCTION 

you  may  diverge,  by  branch  railway  of  eight  miles,  along  the 
Winooski  valley,  through  the  brisk  Winooski  Village,  at  the 


wmm 


n  this 


acious 
ments 
.  scale, 
ions  to 
opular 

►Ft  dis- 
riew  of 
fotch," 
V  Eng- 
)S  Glen 

miles ; 
8  Falls, 

excur- 
)  house. 
f  Mount 


NORTHERN  PLEASURl  TRAVEL.  183 

Falls  Of  the  same  name,  through  the  "tunnel"  of  nearly  four 
hundred  feet  length,  piercing  a  high  bluff,  to  the  fair  city  of 

BURLINGTON, 

the  queen  city  of  the  mountain  commonwealth,  on  the  east- 
ern  slope  of  Lake  Champlain,  which,  at  tJiis  point  is  ten 
miles  wide     This  is  one  of  the  great  lumber  ports  of  the 

and  wTl'"^.  k"'^^'"'^"''  "^  ^^^^'  «*««^  ^«d  wooden  wares 
and  woolen  fabrics,  are  numerous  and  important.    See  fuller 

inTtown?  "''  '"'"''^'''^  '*^'^''''  "'  '"^^  ''''  *^^  ^'^rround' 


J 


I    I 


'  'i 


iliil 


side  of 
[  guests. 
IS  inter- 
;he  nov- 
expense 

[  return- 
railroad 
J.  Cars 
1  be  had 
distant, 
a  from  a 
mmit  of 


iii. 


dong  the 
le,  at  the 


•Jul 
itdt 


Vi 


i 


1  .: 


CHAPTER  XVII. 


Fkom  Saratoga  to  the  White  Mountains,  by  Rail,  or 

THROUGH  THE  LaKES. 


This  route  is  over  tho  Rensselaer  and  Saratoga  Railroad 
line,  via  Fort  Edward,  the  Whitehall  or  .Lake  Champlain 
Junction,  Castleton  and  West  Rutland  to  Rutland  ;  thenco, 
by  the  Rutland  and  Burlington  Division  of  the  Central 
Vermont  Railroad,  through  Brandon,  Middlchury  and  Vergen- 
nes,  to  Burlington,  on  Lake  Champlain.  At  Essex  Junc- 
tion (8  mile  above  Burlington)  connection  isfoiiued  with  the 
Central  Vermont  Railroad,  and  passengers  may  proceed 
directly  to  Montpelier  and  the  White  Mountains.  These 
roads  are  run  in  close  connection.  The  cars  are  among  the 
finest  run  on  New  England  roads,  and  the  scenery  along  the 
way  is  beautiful  and  romantic. 

AT    WEST   RUTLAND 

are  the  extensive  marble  quaiTies  of  Sheldons  and  Slason,  and 

RUTLAND 

is  the  centre  of  the  marble  interest  of  Vermont,  which  has 
become  the  important  industry  of  this  seHion.  It  is  also  a 
flourishing  town  for  trade  from  the  surrounding  regions,  has 
good  hotel  accommodations  and  is  attractive  and  popular 
as  a  place  of  residence,  or  for  temporary  sojourn. 

BRANDON 

is  an  important  town  having  manufactories  of  some  impor- 
tance.   The  *•  Frozen  Well  of  Brandon,"  has  much  notoriety 


^«I 


NORTHERN    PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


185. 


AIL,  OR 


Railroad 
hamplain 
;  thence, 
3  Central 
d  Vergen- 
sex  Junc- 
1  with  the 
y  proceed 
s.    These 
imong  the 
along  the 


lason,  and 

which  has 
It  is  also  a 
gions,  has 
d  popular 


— a  coating  of  ice  forming  upon  the  water  in  tlio  hottest  of 
summer  days. 
Eighteen  miles  from  Brandon  is 

LAKE  DUNMOUE, 

named  in  honor  of  the  Earl  of  Dunmore,  a  beautiful  sheet  of 
water,  lying  among  the  Green  Mountains  of  Vermont,  and 
distant  also  eight  miles  from  Middlebury.  The  Lake  is  about 
five  miles  long  and  one  mile  wide,  covering  a  space  of  about 
1,400  acres,  at  an  altitude  of  358  feet  above  the  sea.  Its 
waters  are  clear  as  crystal,  and  its  shores  skirted  with  a  vari- 
ety of  scenery.  On  the  western  shores,  the  country  rises  in 
undulating  meadows  and  wooded  hills,  while  on  the  eastern 
side  two  or  three  spurs  of  the  Green  MounUiins  rise  to  a 
height  of  1,500  to  2,000  feet,  thus  uniting,  in  charming  vari- 
ety, the  bold,  majestic  mountain  scenery  with  the  lovelier 
features  of  lake  and  meadow.  From  these  elevations  on 
either  side,  accessible  to  pedestrians  or  on  horse-back,  charm- 
ing views  of  the  surrounding  country,  embracing  Lake 
Champlain  and  the  Adirondack  Mountains  on  the  west,  and 
peaks  of  the  Green  Mountain  range  on  the  east  and  south, 
are  obtained ;  the  view,  extending  75  miles  from  north  to 
south,  is  not  surpassed,  excepting  from  the  summits  of 
Mansfield  and  Washington. 

To  reach  the  Lake,  leave  the  cars  at  Brandon.  A  splendid 
line  of  Concord  Stages  runs  direct  to  the  house,  in  connec- 
tion with  trains  from  New  York  and  Boston.  The  Lake  may 
also  be  reached  from  Middlebury.  The  Brandon  route  is 
preferred  by  the  larger  number. 

TUE  LAKE  DUNMORE  HOUSE, 

E.  P.  Hitchcock,  Esq.,  proprietor,  is  the  place  to  ei\joy  the 
tine  scenery  of  the  locality  and  all  the  essentials  and  luxu- 
ries, expected  by  patrons  of  first-class  hotels,  will  here  be 
found,  including  fine  teams  for  those  who  wish.  Among  the 
more  prominent  points  of  interest,  and  which  are  well  worth 
visiting,  during  your  stay,  are  Mount  Gnomon  and  Mount 
Moosalamoo  to  the  east,  the  latter  rising  to  a  height  of  1,959 
feet.  Mount  Bryant  on  the  north,  500  feet  above  the  Lake,  on 


.1 


■mm 


I 


r   t 


V,|: '*■,;*'";  '*''!■  'i  '^■■' 


The  Lake  Dunmoue  House. 


^ 


NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


187 


-ia 


the  top  of  which  is  Prospect  Rock,  easily  reached,  command- 
ing magnificent  views  of  Lake  Cliamplain  and  the  Adiron- 
dack Region,  Sunset  Hill  on  the  west — one  of  the  most 
delightful  spots  in  Vermont  —  Warner's  Cave,  Pleasure 
Island  in  the  centre  of  the  lake,  Wolf  Hill,  Lana  Cascade 
and  other  places  interesting  in  their  historic  associations  and 
natursil  charms. 

The  Lake  Dunmore  House  has  a  more  commanding  loca- 
tion than  any  in  the  region,  and  a  class  of  patrons  whoso 
acquaintance  it  is  a  pleasure  to  cultivate.  Many  families  of 
wealth,  from  the  largo  cities,  have  private  cottages  here, 
which  add  to  the  attractiveness  of  *he  place  for  residence. 

MIDDLEBURY 

is  the  county  seat  of  Addison  county  and  the  seat  of  Middle - 
bury  College.  It  is  important  as  a  manufacturing  town 
and  largo  quantities  of  a  superior  quality  of  white  marble 
are  exported. 

VERGENNES 

is  the  smallest  in  territorial  extent  of  any  "city"  in  the 
counti'y.  It  h^s  a  fine  harbor  and  an  excellent  water  power 
from  the  falls  on  Otter  Creek.  It  was  once  important  as  a 
military  station,  and  its  limited  area  of  380  by  400  rods  extent 
is  generally  utilized.  It  can  be  conceived  that  no  difficulty 
is  experienced,  as  in  other  cities,  from  its  *'  magnificent  dis- 
tances "  and  scattered  and  isolated  sections. 

THE  STEVENS  HOUSE, 

S.  S.  Gaines,  proprietor,  is  a  well  kept,  neat  and  commodi- 
ous house  of  entertainment,  long  and  favorably  known  to 
travelers. 

WINOOSKI, 

between  Burlington  and  Essex  Junction,  is  a  thriving  vil- 
lage, with  several  enterprising  manufacturing  establishments. 
The  Stevens  House,  J.  W.  Celley,  proprietor,  is  a.  well 
kept  and  cosy  place  of  rest  for  those  who  may  tarry  here  for 


188 


NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


W¥: 


a  time.  From  Essex  Junction  the  route  is  south-easterly, 
over  the  Central  Vermont  line,  through  the  mountainous 
region,  via  liichmond  and  Waterbury,  with  distant  views  of 
Mounts  Mansfield  and  Camel's  Hump,  to  Montpelier,  (previ- 
ously described),  and  thence,  by  Wells  River  route,  to  the 
mountains. 

Passengers  may  also  go  directly  to  Montreal  from  Essex 
Junction  via  St.  Albans  and  St.  Johns  through  the  Victoria 
Bridge. 

THE  ROUTE  BY  LAKE  BOATS 

is  the  one  chosen  by  many,  especially  by  those  whose  time 
and  inclination  allow,  and  tempt  them  to  view  the  beauties 
of  the  scenery  and  places  of  historic  interest  about  Luke 
George  and  Lake  Champlain. 

To  make  this  trip,  go  by  rail  over  the  Rensselaer  and  Sar- 
atoga Railroad  to  Fort  Edward,  as  before,  thence  by  Glcus 
Falls  branch,  a  short  ride,  to 

GLENS  FALLS, 

a  flourishing  and  picturesque  manufacturing  village,  with 
5,000  inhabitants.  The  village  was  completely  destroyed  by 
fire  about  ten  years  since,  but  has  recovered  from  the  disas- 
ter. The  falls  on  the  Hudson  have  a  descent  of  70  feet.  This 
fall  is  200  miles  from  the  mouth  of  the  Hudson  River;  the 
river  w(;ars  its  way  over  strata  of  black  limestone.  The  ac- 
tion of  the  water  has  worn  some  of  these  strata  away,  a  few 
at  the  top,  and  more  further  down  the  falls,  so  that  a  kind  of 
irregular  series  of  steps  has  been  formed,  over  which  the 
waters  of  the  river  go  thundering  down. 

A  bridge  600  feet  long  spans  the  Hudson,  resting,  in  the 
centre,  on  a  marble  island.     This  is  the  spot  where,  in  the 
*'  last  of  the  Mohicans,"  the  inimitable  Cooper  located  some  j 
of  his  finest  drawn  characters.    By  a  private  stairway  that] 
goes  down  near  the  bridge,  one  may  reach  two  objects  of  in- 
terest, viz.  Indian  Cave  and  Big  Snake.     The  cave  runs! 
through  a  small  island  from  one  channel  to  another,  and  hm 
been  made  famous  by  the  genius  of  Cooper.    Veins  of  satin  j 
spar  are  found  in  the  fallen  rocks  below,  and  trilobites  arej 
sometimes  imbedded  in  the  rocks. 


'ynf 


NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL 


189 


easterly, 
ntainous 
views  of 
r,  (previ- 
te,  to  the 

om  Essex 
3  Victoria 


'hose  time 
e  beauties 
.bout  Lake 

ar  and  Sar- 
e  by  Glens 


illage,  with 

estroyed  hy 

a  the  disas- 

)  feet.    This 

River;   the 

e.    The  ac- 

|away,  a  few 

lat  a  kind  of 

Ir  which  the 

Uting,  in  the 
Were,  in  the 
located  some  I 
[tairway  thtitj 
[)bjects  of  in- 
cave  runs  I 
ther,  and  has  I 
f  eins  of  satinl 
L-ilobites  arel 


The  Rockvtell  House, 
Rockwell  Brothers,  proprietors,  is  the  hotel  where  the  tourist 
will  make  his  home  during  his  stay.  The  house  is  finely  lo- 
cated, both  as  to  convenience  of  patrons  and  picturesque  sur- 
roundings. The  patrons  of  this  house  will  find  the  managers 
fully  up  to  the  modem  demands  made  for  first-class  enter- 
tainment by  the  many  whose  means  and  leisure  allow  them 
to  spend  the  summer  months,  or  a  portion  of  them,  in  reere- 
ation.  Teams  are  furnished  for  all  who  wish  to  visit  the 
many  places  of  interest  in  the  vicinity,  and  your  stay,  be  it 
long  or  short,  cannot  but  be  a  pleasant  one.  The  man  of 
business  here  has  easy  and  sure  connection  with  the  grea  t 
business  centres,  the  man  of  leisure  finds  it  a  charming  place 
of  retreat,  while,  for  families,  no  better  point  can  be  found 
for  spending  a  vacation. 
The  stage  route  from  Glens  Falls  to  Caldwell,  at  the  head 


190 


NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


of  Lake  George,  gives  a  ride  of  nine  miles  through  a  wild 
and  picturesque  region.  Five  miles  from  Glens  Falls,  Wil- 
liams^ Hock  is  passed,  marking  the  site  of  the  bloody  defeat 
of  Col.  Williams  and  his  Indian  allies,  by  the  French  Com- 
mander Dieskau.  Williams  was  slain  near  the  rock  which 
bears  his  name.  The  victory  of  the  French  forces  was  of 
short  duration ;  they  were  in  turn  defeated,  and  their  leader 
wounded  and  taken  prisoner,  at  the  battle  at  the  colonial 
camp  at  Lake  George,  where  Gen.  Johnson  so  gallantly 
avenged  the  French  successes.  The  bodies  of  the  English, 
slain  in  the  first  encounter,  were  thrown  by  the  French  sol- 
diery into  the  quiet  pool  near  Williams'  rock,  now  known  as 

BLOODY    POND. 

"  The  Bloody  Defile  "  is  the  ravine  where  the  savage  mas- 
sacre occurred. 

CALDWELL 

is  a  quiet  village  at  the  head  of  the  fair  lake  whose  charms 
give  it  importance.  There  are  several  small  hotels,  but  the 
Fort  William  Henry  Hotel,  T.  Reossle  &  Son,  proprietors, 
is  the  elegant  and  sumptuous  house  of  the  tourist.  It  ac- 
commodates a  thousand  guests,  is  located  near  the  ruins  of 
Old  Fort  William  Henrj' — the  site  of  the  fearful  massacre  by 
the  Indian  allies,  aided,  perhaps,  by  a  portion  of  the  French 
forces  under  Montcalm,  and  about  one  mile  from  Fort  Georg*. 
The  grounds  are  laid  out  with  elegant  taste,  sloping  down  to 
the  edge  of  the  waters,  aftbrding  fine  views  of  the  southern 
end  of  the  lake.  Promenades  run  the  whole  length  of  the 
hotel,  fronting  the  lake,  a  sparkling  fountain  constantly  plays 
m  the  well-arranged  grounds,  and  all  the  arrangements  of  the 
interior  are  desjgned  to  give  to  guests  the  maximum  of  com- 
fort and  luxurious  ease.  Stages  run  to  Schroon  Lake,  Lake 
Luzerne,  and  to  the  southern  Adirondacks. 

LAKE  GEORGE 

is  three  hundred  feet  above  the  sea  level,  thirty-six  miles! 
long,  and  varies  in  width  from  three-quarters  of  a  mile  tol 
three  or  four  miles.  The  depth  is,  in  some  places,  morel 
than  tour   hundred  feet,  and   the  waters  are  everywhercl 


J 

i' 


NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


191 


a  wild 
8,  Wil- 

defeat 
hCom- 
:  which 

was  of 
r  leader 
colonial 
gallantly 
English, 
}nch  sol- 
mown  as 

rage  mas- 


se charms 
jls,  but  the 
Iroprietors, 
it.  It  ac- 
,e  ruins  of 
.assacre  by 
he  French 
>rtGeorg«. 
ag  down  to 
,e  southern 
ttgth  of  the 

;antly  plays 
.entsofthe 

,m  of  com- 
lLake.Lake| 


U-six  miles  I 
^f  a  mile  to  I 
iaces,  morel 
[everywhercl 


remarkably  clear,  so  much  so  that  objects  can  be  seen  at  a 
depth  of  more  than  thirty  feet.  The  French  gaxe  it  the  name 
of  *'  Lake  of  the  Holy  Sacrament,"  and  used  sometimes  to 
transport  the  waters,  on  account  of  their  purity,  for  use  in 
their  churches  in  baptismal  fonts.  Not  only  are  artists  and 
lovers  of  sublime  and  beautiful  scenery  attracted  to  the  lake, 
by  its  beautiful  scenery,  but  the  many  old  associations,  called 
up  by  a  visit  to  its  surroundings,  make  it  a  modern  Mecca 
for  the  patriotic. 

It  was  first  visited  in  1646,  by  the  French  Jesuit,  Father 
Jogues,  who  perished,  as  did  many  of  his  successors,  by  the 
hands  of  the  fierce  Mohawks,  who  dwelt  around  its  borders. 
The  trip  through  the  lake  fi-om  Caldwell  is  now  made  in  a 
few  hours,  in  one  of  the  elegant  steamers,  '*  Minnehaha"  and 
"  Ganouskie,"  via  Bolton,  14  Mile  Island,  and  Hague,  to  the 
lower  end  of  the  lake,  where  stages  (4  miles  staging)  are 
taken  for  Ticonderoga  and  the  pier  of  the  Champlain  Steamers. 
Of  the  many  points  along  the  way,  charming  for  beauty 
and  grandeur,  and  interesting  from  association,  we  have  not 
space  for  description,  the  eye  will  take  them  in  with  rare 
pleasure,  and  some  one  familiar  with  localities,  will  cheer- 
fully point  out  the  many  points  of  interest.     The  outlet  of 
Lake  George  is  a  rapid  stream  descending  240  feet  in  the  less 
than  4  miles  of  its  flow  before  discharging  into  the  larger 
Lake  Champlain.  The  remains  of  old  Fort  Ticonderoga  hav- 
ing been  visited,  standing  in  solitary  ruin  upon  a  high  pe- 
ninsula projecting  into  the  lake,  you  take  one  of  the  steamers 
plying  between  Whitehall,  Burlington  and  Rouse's  Point  on 

LAKE  CHAMPLAIN. 

This  largest  of  eastern  lakes  is  one  hundred  and  forty  miles 
extreme  length,  covers  an  area  of  six  hundred  square  miles, 
connects  at  its  southern  base  with  the  Hudson,  by  canal  from 
Whitehall,  receives  the  surplus  waters  of  Lake  George,  and 
discharges  through  the  Richelieu  River  into  the  St.  Law- 
rence. Burlington,  St.  Albans  and  Vergennes,  on  the  east- 
ern shore,  have  fine  harbai'S,  and  Plattsburg,  Ticonderoga 
and  Crown  Pointy  on  the  New  York  side,  are  places  of  great 


'ft 


192 


NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


Bft  .< 


historic  interest  and  noted  associations.  The  scenery  on  the 
Aiisable  River,  reached  from  Port  Kent  or  Plattsburg,  is  the 
most  remarkable  of  any  inland  stream  in  the  Eastern  States. 
Here  the  river  dashes  for  a  mile  through  a  narrow  passage 
in  the  sand-stono,  between  walls  of  two  hundred  feet  perpen- 
dicular height,  forming  a  chasm  wild,  romantic  and  grand 
in  the  extreme,  distant  twelve  miles  from  Plattsburg. 

Lake  Champlain  was  discovered  in  the  year  1609  by  Sam- 
uel de  Champlain,  the  noted  and  indomitable  French  geog- 
rapher. 

The  following  from  *'  Chisholms  Guide  Book"  is  beauti- 
fully descriptive.  "Travellers  who  have  widely  explored 
the  objects  of  interest  in  the  New  and  Old  World  unite  in 
pronouncing  the  waters  and  environs  of  Champlain  the  most 
beautiful  and  impressive  the  eye  can  rest  upon.  The  waters 
of  the  Lake,  whether  reposing  in  a  calm,  or  surging  under 
the  power  of  the  tempest,  are  indescribably  beautiful;  but 
this  attraction  is  infinitely  enhanced  by  the  islands  which  in 
varied  forms  stud  its  bosom,  by  the  peninsulas  which  pierce 
it,  and  by  the  bold,  rocky  precipices  that  impend  over  the 
Lake.  The  shores  on  either  side  are  impressive  and  beau- 
tiful :  now  a  long  line  of  rugged  cliffs,  crowned  by  dense  for- 
ests, appears,  and  now  smiling  in  luxuriousranges  of  culture 
and  elegance,  embellished  by  farm-houses,  mansions  and  vil- 
lages with  their  glittering  spires.  All  this  scene  of  beauty  is 
embraced  by  the  dark  framework  of  mountains  that  impart 
magnificence  to  the  whole." 

This  steamboat  passage  to  Burlington  gives  beautiful  views 
of,  Mt.  Mansfield  and  Camel's  Hump,  of  Green  Mountain 
range,  and  the  gi*and  peaks  and  outlines  of  the  Adirondacks 
in  New  York, 

CROWN  POINT 

is  twelve  miles  north  of  Ticonderoga,  with  the  ruins  of  the 
old  fortress  on  the  high  promontory  between  the  lake  and 
the  bay  beyond.  Port  Henry  is  a  finely  located  village  with  a 
population  engaged  in  iron  mining  and  manufacture.  West- 
port  and  Essex  are  other  points,  where  steamers  touch,  and 
from  which  passage  may  be  taken  for  the  Adirondack  region. 


NORTHERN   PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


193 


m  the 

is  the 
states, 
assage 
)erpen- 
grand 

)y  Sam- 
li  geog- 

beauti- 
jxplored 

unite  in 

the  most 

le  waters 

ng  under 

iifnl;  hut 
which  in 

ich  pierce 

fl  over  the 
and  heau- 
dense  for- 
of  culture 
US  and  vil- 
,f  beauty  is 
lat  impart 

Itifttl  views 
Mountain 
lirondacks 


Luins  of  the 

le  lake  and 

llage  with  a 

ire.    West- 

I  touch,  and 

lack  region.  | 


Steaming  on  in  a  north-easterly  course,  passing  the  Four 
Brothers,  Juniper  Islands^  and  Rock  Bunder, 

BURLINGTON 

is  reached ;  where  passengers  for  the  mountains  will  leave 
the  boat.  Those  going  through  to  Montreal,  or  Ogdensburg, 
will  continue  on  to  Rouse''s  Point,  there  connecting  with  rail- 
way lines  northward  and  westward.  Burlington  is  one  of  the 
great  lumber  ports  of  the  country.  The  ground  on  wiiich  it 
is  built  slopes  gradually  up  from  the  lake,  rising  to  a  height 
of  370  feet.  The  University  of  Vermont  has  fine  buildings 
crowning  the  highlands.  From  the  dome  of  the  main  build- 
ing a  grand  scene  is  presented,  including  in  the  circle  swept 
by  the  eye  over  sixty  prominent  peaks,  the  bright  waters  and 
islands  of  take  Champlain  with  the  towering  summits  of  the 
Adirondacks  beyond.  The  grave  of  the  old  hero,  Ethan  Al- 
len, is  visited  by  all  patriots.  A  fine  statue  was  erected  over 
the  grave  during  the  year  1873. 


The  Ameuican  Hotel 

is  one  of  the  largest  and  most  complete  hotels  in  the  city,  and 
j  in  its  management  and  provision  for  the  wants  and  comforts 
of  patrons,  is  second  to  none  in  the  whole  range  of  pleasure 


194 


NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


travel.    H.  H.  Howe,  proprietor,  is  the  gentlemanly  and  elTi- 
cient  manager.  " 


pi 


»» I 


hT 


m~ 


The  Van  Ness  House, 

D.  C.  Barber  &  Co.,  proprietors',  is  also  a  new,  large,  commo- 
dious and  well  kept  hotel,  where  all  may  be  made  comforta- 
ble, with  good  quarters  and  the  best  of  fare,  during  their  stay , 
in  this  fine  old  Green  Mountain  city.    No  essential  requisite 


1 

J||)V 


n  li 


NORTHERN  PLLASURE  TRAVEL.  I95 

to  the  traveler's  comfort  will  be  wnnfir,,,  * 

popular  house.  wanting  to  guests  at  this 

From  Burlington  passengers  may  go  over  the  Tentrni  v 

thence  toMon"real  amJO-fpr  ^"f"^'"''  ^  Kouse's  P„i„,. 

;..t,.e„.ou„.SZlSr;S^ 

R.-..lroad  »t  Northumberland  Junction.  Mountains 


ge,  commo- 
e  comfortR- 
ig  their  stay  i 
ial  requisite 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 


From  Niagara  Falls  to  the  White  Mountains. 


J 


Visitors  at  Niagara  Falls  who  wish  to  supplement  their 
visit  to  that  great  natural  wonder  by  continuing  their  journey 
to  the  romantic  region  of  the  White  Hills,  will  go  by  rail  to 
Lewiston,  on  Lake  Ontario,  thence  by  boat  to  the  fine 
Canadian  city  of  ^ 

TORONTO. 

The  view  of  Toronto,  approached  from  the  lake,  is  remark- 
ably fine,  the  wharves  and  public  buildings  giving  indica- 
tions of  a  city  of  importance.  It  has  a  population  of  about 
65,000  souls,  and  is  the  chief  city  of  the  Upper  Canadas  or 
the  Province  of  Ontario.  The  buildings  of  the  University 
are  massive  in  proportion  and  built  in  the  Norman  style  of 
architecture.  Trinity  College,  the  Normal  School  and 
Loretto  Convent  are  other  educational  institutions  of  note. 
The  English  and  Catholic  Cathedrals  are  both  buildings  to 
attract  attention. 

The  Queen's  Hotel,  Toronto,  Ontario,  Capt.  Thomas 
Dick,  Proprietor,  Thomas  Mc  Gaw,  Manager,  is  convenient 
to  the  Railway  Stations  and  Steamboat  Piers,  on  Front 
Street,  near  the  business  portions  of  the  city.  Commo- 
dious rooms  elegantly  filled  with  new  furniture  of  most 
modern  style,  spacious  and  attractive  grounds  and  croquet 
lawns,  with  a  sumptuous  billiard  parlor  serve  to  make  it  an 
acceptable  temporary  or  permanent  home  for  the  merchant 
or  the  tourist  and  for  travelers  generally.    Carriages  always 


NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


197 


3. 


t  their 

ourney 

rail  to 

tie  fine 


•emark- 
indica- 
)f  about 
adas  or 
iversity 
,8tyle  of 
ool  and 
lof  note. 
Idinga  to 

iThomas 

ivenient 

Front 

Jommo- 

lof  most 

croquet 

ike  it  an 
lerchant 
always 


in  waiting  for  the  pleasant  drives  and   extensive  views  of 
a  varied  character  in  and  around  the  city.    The  extensive 
Galleries  of  Art,  the  Queen's  Park,  the  University  Build- 
ings, the  Lunatic  Asylum,  the  Trinity  College,  and  Nor- 
mal School  are  some  of  the  places   which  must  be  seen. 
It  is  one  of  the  largest  hotels  in  the  Dominion  of  Canada, 
and  overlooks  the  beautiful  Bay  and  Lake  Ontario.    His  Im- 
perial Highness  the  Grand  Duke  Alexis,  of  Russia,  and  his 
suite  were  furnished,  in  December,  1871,  with  the  splendid 
suite  of  apartments,  comprising  one  wing  of  the  house, 
without  extra  preparation.     The  (Queen's)  Royal  Hotel 
at  Niagara  has  the  same  ownership  and  management. 

From  Toronto  the  tourist  may  go  by  Grand  Trunk  Rail- 
way, directly  to  Montreal,  thence,  through  the  Victoria 
Bridge  and  over  the  south-eastern  and  Passumpsic  Railways, 
to  connection  with  the  Wliitc  Mountains  Railway  at  Wells 
River;  or,  he  may  go  from  Montreal  via  Grand  Trunk 
Railway,  and  Island  Pond  to  Northumberland,  (express  train 
and  parlor  cars  over  this  route)  and  approach  the  mountains 
from  the  north ;  but,  by  far  the  larger  number  of  those  who 
travel  for  pleasure,  will  come  by  boat,  from  Toronto,  through 
Luke  Ontario  and  the  St,  Lawrence  River,  through  the  Thou- 
sand  Islands,  over  the  Rapids  and  under  the  Great  Victoria 
Bridge,  to  Montreal,  and,  from  thence,  by  railway  (choice  of 
routes  as  described  on  preceding  page)  to  the  Mountains. 
Some  prefer  to  go  from  Toronto  to  Kingston  by  Grand  Trunk 
Railway.and  there  take  boat  for  the  passage  among  the  islands 
and  down  the  river  to  Montreal,  giving  variety  to  the  journey. 

the  thousand  islands — 

there  are  nearer  two  thousand — stretch  themselves  along  the 
centre  of  the  St.  Lawrence  for  a  distance  of  forty  miles. 
They  vary  in  extent  from  the  green  dot  upon  the  wave  to  the 
island  of  miles  in  length,  and  are  among  the  wonders  of  the 
St.  Lawrence. 

THE  BAPIDS. 

The  Long  Sault  is  a  continuous  rapid  of  nine  miles  extent, 
divided  in  the  centre  by  an  island.     The  current  rushes 


M 


r 


198 


NORTHERN  PLEASURE  TRAVEL. 


through  these  rapids  at  the  rate  of  twenty  miles  an  hour  and 
is  exciting  in  the  extreme  to  one  a  stranger  to  the  passage ; 
but,  with  skillful  pilotage,  the  passage  is  safely  made  and  the 
apparent  danger  adds  to  tiie  glow  of  excitement  and  makes 
it  a  journey  to  be  remembered. 

The  Lachine  Rapids  nearest  to  Montreal  are  visited  by 
many  who  wish  to  eiy'oy  the  sensation  of  "  Shooting  the 
Rapids."  In  approaching  anchorage  at  Montreal,  you  pass 
beneath  the  grand  Victoria  Bridge  (see  chapter  on  "  Mon- 
treal ")  and  have  fine  views  of  the  city  and  the  splendid  stone 
piers  which  line  the  water  front  of  this  northern  commercial 
centre.  From  Montreal  proceed  to  the  mountains  by  either 
rail  route  as  described  in  connection  with  all  rail  route  on 
preceding  pages  of  this  chapter. 

HOME  AGAIN. 

Having  made  the  circuit  of  the  mountains  and  enjoyed  the 
cool  breezes  which  sweep  the  northern  lakes,  we  shall  all,  in 
due  time,  turn  our  faces  towards  home,  and  we  shall  all  have 
traveled  to  small  purpose  if  we  have  not  received 

**«*«***«<.  hint  ^nd  tojj^Q 

Of  fairer,  ral  leys  and  streams  than  these. 
Where  the  cirers  of  Qod  are  full  of  water, 
And  full  of  lap  are  His  healing  trees  I  " 


HOTELS. 


199 


ir  and 

ssage ; 
,nd  tho 
makes 

ited  by 
ag  the 
n\  pass 
•♦  Mon- 
id  8tx)ne 
niercial 
y  either 
route  on 


oyed  the 
x\\  all,  in 
I  all  have 


A  GI^EAT  ATTRACTION 

TO    TOURISTS    AND    PLEASURE    TRAVELLERS 

IS  THE  ROUTE  OF  THE 

QUEBEC  AND  GULF  PORT  S.  S.  CO.. 

Whose  commodious  Steamers  proceed  from  Quebec  down 
the  majestic  River  and  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence  in  sight  of  the 
grandest  scenery  and  many  historical  points,  calling  at  nu- 
merous Sea-bathing  Resorts  on  the  South  shore  of  the  Gulf, 
giving  the  Sportsman  and  Angler  a  chance  to  visit  the  most 
far-famed  Rivers,  Bays  and  Inlets  which  swarm  with  Trout 
and  Salmon. 

The  Steamers  connect  at  Point  du  Ch6ne  (Shediac)  with 
Intercolonial  R.  R.  for  St.  John,  N.  B.,  thence  by  Cars  and 
Steamers  to  Portland  and  Boston,  and  at  Pictou  with  Inter- 
colonial R.  R.  for  Halifax,  N.  S.,  connecting  there  with  Rail- 
way or  Steamer  lines  for  St.  John,  Portland  and  Boston.  This 
is  the  Route  to  Charlotte  town.  Prince  Edward's  Island. 

Excursion  Tickets  from  New  York,  Boston  or  other  points 
in  New  England  to  Montreal,  Quebec,  thence  via  Gulf  Port 
Steamers  to  Shediac,  N-  B.,  Charlottetown,  P.  E.  I.,  Pictou, 
N.  S.,  St.  John,  N.  B.,  Halifax,  N.  S.,  passing  through  all 
points  of  interest  in  the  maritime  provinces  and  returning 
by  either  Rail  or  Steamer  to  Portland,  Boston  and  New 
York,  or  vice  versa,  for  sale  in  New  York,  Boston,  and  prin- 
cipal points  in  Now  England,  at  aU  Offiaes  selling  Excursion 
Tickets. 

Ask  Ticket  Agent  for  Gulf  Port  Steamtir  Circular,  which 
will  give  you  all  particular  information,  and  map  of  route. 

STEVENSON  &  LEVE,  Passenger  Agents^  ^ 

General  Office,  Quebec, 
W.  MOORE,  Mamujcr, 


il-ii| 


w^^ 

I 

m  ■ 

i 

r.^ 

')/ 

I 

II'  I 


200 


HOTELS. 


TiiE  undersigned  respectfully  inform  their  numerous 
friends  and  patrons  in  tne  United  States  and  Canada,  that, 
by  the  recent  enlargement  and  improvements  effected  in 
this  establshment,  they  are  now  prepared  to  accommodate 
over  250  guests.  The  Treble  House  has  two  beautiful  fronts, 
as  shown  by  the  engi-aving.    It  is  unrivalled  in  its  not  only 

?leasant  location,  but  is  convenient  to  the  Post  Office,  Banks, 
'ublic  Buildings,  Horse  Car  Depot,  &c.  The  house  has  been 
thoroughly  refitted  and  furnished  with  every  regard  to  com- 
fort and  luxury ;  has  hot  and  cold  baths  and  closets  on  each 
floor.  The  aim  has  been  to  make  this  the  most  unexception- 
able first-class  hotel  in  Portland.  We  trust  that  our  lon^  ex- 
perience in  first-class  hotels  will  give  confidence  to  our  friends 
and  the  traveling  public,  that  they  will  receive  every  comfort 
and  attention  at  the  Preble. 

Carriages,  with  .attentive  drivers,  can  be  had  at  all  times 
by  applymg  at  the  olHce ;  coaches  will  also  be  found  at  the 
Railway  Depots  and  Steamboat  Landings  on  the  arrival  of 
the  several  trains  and  Steamers. 

M.  S.  GIBSON  &  CO.,  Proprietors. 


HOTELS. 


201 


a^ 


[•-U»  1 


numevons 
ada.  that, 
fected  in 
jnimodate 
|ful  fronts, 
.  not  only 
[^e ,  Banlts, 
.  has  been 
.  d  to  corn- 
Its  on  each 
jxception- 
|r  lon^  ex- 
(ur  friends 
y  comfort 

all  times 

[md  at  the 

arrival  of 


Iprietors. 


BY  G.  W.  &  J.  S.  PIERCE, 

PORTSMOUTH,    N.    H. 


Not  excelled  by  any  hotel  in  New  England  for  elegance 
and  completeness  in  every  department.  This  house  is  be- 
coming popular  among  summer  travelers,  as  headquarters, 
while  visiting  Rye,  Hampton,  York  or  Wells  Beaches,  either 
of  which  is  within  a  pleasant  drive.  Yachts,  with  expe- 
rienced skippers,  to  take  guests  to  the  Isles  of  Shoals,  the 
Harbor,  or  up  the  Piscataqua.  Direct  communication  by 
railroad  to  the  mountains  and  lakes  of  New  Hampshire  and 
Maine. 

THE  FINEST  BILLIAED  HALL  IN  THE  STATE. 

Coaches  at  Eastern  and  Concord  Depots. 


il 


202 


HOTELS. 


OLD  ORCHARD  HOUSE, 

OLD  ORCHARD  BEACH, 

8A.OO,      -      -      -      -    M^IISTE, 

E.  C.  STAPLES,  Proprietor. 


Ui 


This  house,  the  pioneer  of  Sea-side  Hotels,  is  the  largest 
on  the  coast ;  contains  about  250  rooms  and  will  accommodate 
400  guests,  and  being  forty  feet  alx>ve  the  level  of  the  sea,  it 
has  the  advantage  of  breezes  from  every  quarter  ;  it  is  sur- 
mounted by  a  tower  105  feet  above  the  sea  and  gives  a  splen- 
did view  in  all  directions.  Its  oflice,  parlors,  &c.,  are  com- 
modious, it  also  lias  a  Concert-Room  72  by  36  feet  with  stage 
36  by  12,  with  full  set  of  scenery,  drop  scenes,  &c.,  for  the 
performance  of  amateur  theatricals,  tableaux,  dancing,  etc., 
and  will  seat  about  400  people.  A  band  will  be  in  attcml- 
ance  every  evening  during  the  season.  Telegraph  office  in 
the  house.  The  famous  Old  Orchard  or  Fern  Park,  the  finest 
in  New  England,  is  the  private  property  of  the  proprietor  of 
this  house  and  is  for  the  exclusive  use  of  his  guests. 

The  Beach  is  ten  miles  in  length,  with  an  average  breadth 
at  low  water  of  18  rods  and  so  hard  and  smooth  that  a  horse's 
hoof  scarcely  makes  an  impression  upon  it.  Surf  bathing  is 
perfectly  safe,  as  there  is  no  undertow,  and  for  the  enjoy- 
ment of  all  the  charms  of  old  ocean  in  summer,  this  place 
cannot  be  surpassed  in  the  world.  Billiards  and  bowling  sa- 
loons are  connected  with  the  house,  also  a  livery  stable  with 
safe  horses  and  elegant  carriages.  Bathing  houses  on  the 
beach,  containing  100  rooms,  with  a  competent  man  in 
charge,  at  reasonable  terms. 

Boston  &  Maine  R.  R.  Station  2  minutes  walk  ft*om  the 
house,  distance  from  the  E.  R.  R.  Depot  4  miles,  from  Bos- 
ton 100  miles,  from  Portland  15  miles.  13  miles  drive  to  Sa- 
co  Pool,  12  miles  drive  to  Atlantic  and  Kirkwood  Houses, 
Scarboro  beach,  and  about  15  to  Cape  Cottage  and  Ocean 
House,  Cape  Elizabeth. 


T 


E, 


NE, 


5  largest 
aimodate 
he  sea,  it 
it  is  sur- 
i  a  splen- 
are  com- 
rith  stage 
.,  for  the 
cing,  etc., 
n  attcad- 
1  office  in 
the  finest 
prietor  of 

• 

:e  breadth 
a  horse's 

Ibatliing  is 

ihe  e^joy- 
:his  phice 
wling  sa- 
ble with 

ies  on  the 
t  man  in 


ft'om  the 
Ifrom  Bos- 
I'ive  to  Sa- 
id Houses, 
ind  Ocean 


THE  GRAND  PAeiFie  HOTEL, 

CHICAGO,  ILLINOIS. 

Geo.  W.  Cjae^e,  John  A.  Rice,  ProTDrietors. 


■IS 


The  largest,  most  coinjjlcce  Hotel  in  tlie  world  anU  be.U  pruiecteU  anaind  Firf. 
Representing  with  the  cost  of  land,  structure  and  furnishing,  an  outlay  of  nearly 
$3,000,000.00,  occupying  the  entire  Block  opposite  the  new  Government  Build- 
ing, bounded  by  Clark,  Jackson,  La  Salic   &  Quincy   Streets First  opened 

to  the  Public  June  1873. 

TerniHf  94.50  per  day. 

liiCO.W.  OAGK  &c  JOHN  A.  HlClii,  ProprieCors. 


204 


HOTELS. 


E!>    ; ' 


COLON ADE    HOTEL, 

Cor.  15th  Si  Chestnut  Sts., 

PHILADELPHIA., PENN. 

CENTRALLY   LOCATED- 

Borse  Cars  pass  here  to  all  Points  in  the  City. 


HOTELS. 


205 


L, 


PENN. 
CKty. 


Ill' » 


Grants  Hotel, 


Berwick  Side,  GEBAT  PALLS,  N.  H. 

New  House,  New  Furniture,  and  all  Modern  improve- 
ments. House  warmed  throughout  by  Furnace.  Gas  in 
every  room.  Billiard  Hall  and  Barber  Shop  connected.  A 
good  stable  connected  with  the  House. 

This  Hotel  is  first-class  in  all  its  appointments,  is  pleasantly 
located  near  the  depots  and  business  centres  of  Great  Falls 
and  Berwick,  and  persons  visiting  this  part  of  New  England 
for  business  or  pleasure,  will  find  it  a  desirable  stopping-place. 

EDMUND  GRANT,  Proprietor. 

J.  E.  LANGLEY,  Clerk. 


p  I 


r) 1 2§: o 3iT    no TJ S E , 


An  Elegant  Hotel — Cost  over  a  quarter  Million  dollars — 
A  favorite  Summer  resort  (open  all  the  year).  Free  tickets 
by  steamer,  t^ice  daily,  to  Surf  Bathing  Beach,  time  forty 
minutes.    Circulars.    Also  in  connection  with  the  above  is 

On  the  seashore, 
WatchHill,R.I., 
(near  Stonington, 
Ct).  For  all  sea 
side  attractions, 
this  place  is  not 
surpassed  on  the 
whole  Atlantic 
Coast.  Charges 
Very  Moderate — 
Circulars. 

A.  S.  Plimpton. 


MARTHA'S 


"ncMvvAy 


'^MP' 


TON 


^  BLOCK  I. 


mm^m 


iE, 


HOTELS. 


dollars— 
ree  tickets 
time  forty 
above  is 

loij  Ijouse, 

e  seashore, 

Hill,  R.  I., 
tonington, 

or  all  sea 
.ttractions, 
ace  is  not 
sed  on  the 
Atlantic 
Charges 
©derate— 
ars. 
Plimpton. 


BELYU 


207 

HOUSE. 


DANIEL    HORN,  Proprietor. 

WOLFEBOROUGH,    N.    H. 


4» 


This  house  and  grounds  are  beautifully  located  in  the  most 
attractive  spot  on  the  shore  of  Lake  Winnipiseogee,  at 
Wolfeborough,  only  a  few  rods  distant  from  the  Steamboat 
Landing  and  Railroad  Station. 

Connected  with  the  House  are  Boarding  and  Livery  Stable, 
Laundry,  and  Bathing,  and  a  large  supply  of  Boats  for  rowing, 
sailing,  and  fishing,  at  moderate  charges.  Also,  two  beauti- 
ful, fast  sailing  Yachts,  carrying  25  to  30  persons  each. 

Lake  and  Brook  Trout  abundant. 

Board  at  Reduced  Rates  in  May  and  June. 

BUCK'S  HOTEL, 

LENNOXVILLE,  P.  Q. 

F.  P.  BUCK,         .  .       Proprietor. 

Junction  of  Grand  Trunk  &  P.  &  C.  R.  B. 

This  Hotel  has  been  refitted  and  refurnished  infiret'OlaeB  etyle. 


H' 


ii'' 


'{.■ 


% 


I    1 


Delightfully  located,  and  extensively  patronized  by  Summer  Tourists. 


NORTHAMPTON. 


MASS. 


First  Class.     Centrally  and  pleasandy  located.    A  first  class  Livery  connected 
with  the  Houi^e. 


^m] 


HOTELS. 


209 


NORTH   CONWAY,  N:  H. 


M 


wa: 


i=~?SsLr^" 


ft'  n  r,   (I   ft  ,," 


t  a  (ft  a  a  a  .m-^<-^   ■     . 

^  ".iLc-,,^.— H*rT--i        ,  rX  J.,  il'iiii.    1--, 


''"-v  -rs-  iyV  c.'J>»'  i  V  1**^>'  :■ 


MASS. 


i.-5*''=^??^S»si*f' 


,  ..^■,^?^^^ 


^..-^^jg^  Jr'  J^Sryvf^  jsz 


g^t»r 


••~v^-V^ 


imiimmTinii 


connected 


S'^W^^SP^'*'— .  >J'i^ 


Uyb 


r THOMPSON,  SON  &  -ANDREWS,  Proprietors. 

THIS  NEW  AND  KLEaANT  HOTEL  w»8  built  witli  a  paiticiilar  regard  to 
the  wants  of  plei^iire  travel,  ami  h.iviiig  over  two  huudrud  rooms  it  has  aniiile 
accommodations  for  three  hundred  guests. 

Tlie  Dining  Hall  and  Parlor  are  both  large,  well  lighted  and  cheerful  room^, 
being  fitted  up  and  furnished  in  the  most  complete  and  thorough  manner.  Dur- 
ing the  past  Winter  these,  with  ult  the  pwblic  rooms,  have  been  richly  frescoed, 
and  the  house  is  now  complete  in  all  its  appointments  and  arrangements,  making 
in  all  respects  one  of  the  moat  comfortable,  spacious  and  richly  furnished  of  Sum- 
mer Hotels. 

The  Sleeping  Rooms  are  large,  high  and  airy,  and  arranged  sin^'y,  or  in  suites 
for  families ;  thny  are  furnished  entirely  new,  with  especial  reference  to  the  com- 
fort and  convenience  of  guests. 

Chandler's  Band  of  Portland,  is  engaged  for  the  season. 

Railroad  facilities  are  the  very  be«t.  Two  Pullman  Express  trains  run  each 
way  between  Boston  and  North  Conway  uver  the  line  of  the  Eastern,  Portsmouth, 
Great  Falls  and  Conway  Railroad. 

Prssengers  from  New  Vork  and  the  West  via  Boston,  c;in  connect  with  the 
above  routes.  Via  Concord,  over  the  Bo.>iton,  Concord  and  Montreal  Railroad, 
leave  the  cars  at  Weirs  and  take  the  Boat  across  the  Lake  for  Centre  Harbor;  and 
Irom  there  stages  run  to  West  Ossipee,  connecting  with  tntins  for  North  Conway. 


8.  W.  THOMPSON. 


S.  D.  THOMPSON, 


I.  N.  ANDREWS. 


210 


HOTELS. 


SINCLAIR  HOUSE, 


BETHLEHEM,   N.   H, 


This  is  now  one  of  the  most  favorite  resoi'ts  for 

Tourists  and  Swmmer  Boarders  within 

easy  distance  of  all  the 


WHITE  MOUNTAIN  ATTRACTIONS, 


and  from  which  point  the  whole  range  shows  superbly. 

This  House  is  now  run  by  Mr.  Durgin,  who  has  perma- 
nently succeded  Durgin  and  Ranlet. 


J.  A.  DURGIN- 


SE, 


HOTELS. 
THE 


211 


or. 


QUEEN'S   HOTEL, 


Front  Street, 


Toronto,    ^Ontario. 


oi'ts  for 
bin 


NS, 


rbly. 

as  perma- 


N- 


THOMAS    DICK,    Proprietor. 
THOMAS   McGAW.   Manager. 


mgt/ie  past  year,  undergone  many 
improvements,  in  Additions 
Frescoing,  new  Parlor,    ' 
cind  Elegant  Fur- 
niture. 

Much  of  the  Purnitnre  and  Tapestry  was 

ll^PORTED  EXPRESSLY  FOR  THE  QUEEN'S. 


i 


212 


HOTELS. 


m 


'■■■  •  II 


NATIONAL     HOTEL, 

WILLEY    &    HEAD,    Proprietors, 
COR.  OF  ELM  &  GRANITE  STS., 

MANCHESTER.     -     -     N.  H. 


John  H.  Willey, 


Frank  S.  Head. 


PARKER  HOUSE. 

Fnrchase  St.,  Cor.  Middle  &  Elm, 

BULLOCK  &  BBOWNELL,  Proprietors. 

p.  BULLOCK.  H.  M.  BROWN  ELL. 

WHITE  RIVER  HOTEL, 

HARTFORD    -    -    -     -    VERMONT. 

C.  "W.  PEASE,  Proprietor. 


Livery  Stable  and  Billiard  Hall  connected  with  the  House.     Guests  and  Baggage 
conveyed  to  and  from  the  Depot  Free  of  Charge. 


WOLFEBORO,  JUNCTION,       -       -       -     N.  H. 

J.  W.  PEESCOTT,  Proprietor. 


LIVERY    STABLE    CONNECTED    WITH    THE    HOUSE. 


HOTELS. 


213 


s, 


H. 


BAD. 


S. 


5S. 

3. 


i'oNT. 


Ld  Baggage 


N.  H. 


SPRING  HOTEL, 

NEWBURY,    VT., 
R.  W.  CHAMBERLAIN,  Proprietor. 


Ihouse. 


This  new  and  elegant  Hotel  located  in  the  midst  of  the 

MOST    CHABMZNa    OF    BIVEB,    MOUNTAIN, 

VALLEY,  AND  LAKE  SCENERY, 

and  furnishing  excellent  drives,  offers  unrivalled  induce- 
ments for 

TOURISTS  AND   SUMMER  BOARDERS. 

In  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  House  are  the 

CELEBRATED  SPRINGS  OF  NEWBURY. 

For  description,  send  for  Circular.  A  first  class  Livery 
connected  with  this  House.  Carriages  at  Depot  on  arrival 
of  train. 

R.  W.  CHAMBERLAIN,  Newbury.  Vt. 
June.  1874. 


i.'i 


-  nil 


I":  A 


*^^iM 


214 


HOTELS. 


Wacljusett  tjouse^ 


■m 


i-*i,'(«i 


r^f. 


'.U' 


PRINCETON,    MASS. 


This  House,  pleasantly  located  at  Princeton  Centre,  offers 

extra  accommodations  to 

PERMANENT  AND  TRANSIENT  GUESTS. 


Stages  leave  this  House,  Conner  nth  ererr  Train  on  the 

BOSTON,  BARRE  AND  GARDNER  R.  R. 


P.  A,  BEAMAN  &  SON,  Proprietors. 


HOTELS. 


215 


offers 


on  the 


ors. 


I 


TOWN'S  HOTEI, 

1 

By  Charles  Towns, 

BELLOW'S  FALLS,  VERMONT. 


This  fins  new  Hjtel,  pleasantly  and  desirably  located  in  the  beautiful  vil- 
lage of 

BELLOW'S   FALLS,  VERMONT, 

U  siirDundjl  by  the  mo3t  Ronaiutic  Scenery,  Rivers,  Brooks,  and  Drives  to  be 
found  iu  any  place  of  pleasure  resort  in  New  England. 

Situated  on  the  line  of  travel  between  New  York  and  the  White  M^untaiusi 
Saratoga,  and  Lake  Qeorge,  making  one  of  the  most  desirable  and  favorite 
points  to  stop  on  the  route. 

Tiie  furnishing  is  elegant  and  elaborate,  and  the  table  not  excelled  in  New 
England. 

Coaches  at  the  DoDOt  on  arrival  of  Trains. 


A  first-class  Livery  connected  with  the  Hotel. 


1 1 


Ml 

'm 


216 


HOTELS. 


lllllPi 


By    GEO.    A.    LYNCH, 


ROCKLAND, 


I/AINE. 


i*     |i 


This  First  Class  and  Finely  Appointed  Hotel  is 
pleasantly  and  desirably  located  in  the  beautiful  Tillage  of 
Rockland,  Me.,  and  affords  for  the  traveling  public,  Scenery, 
Comfort,  Drives,  and  Facilities  for  Tourists  not  excelled  in 
New  England. 

A  fine  Livery  connected  with  the  House.    Coaches  at  the 
Steamboat  Landing  and  R.  R.  Station. 


^ 


HOTELS. 


217 


41M1  Itlilt 


i 


By  O.  M.  SHAW, 


AINE. 


BANGOR, 


id:^i]srE, 


lOTEL    is 

kUage  of 

Scenery, 

^celled  in 

Us  at  the 


Not  excelled  by  any  Hotel  in  the  State,  for  elegance  and 
completeness  in  every  department,  ofifering  to  the  travelling 
public  attractions  facilites  and  comforts  not  inferior  to  the 
best  and  most  noted  Hotels.  The  location  is  fine  and  cen- 
tral, located  as  it  is  on  one  of  the  widest,  pleasantest  and 
most  traT  eled  avenues  in  the  city.  Its  rooms,  both  single 
and  in  suits  are  large  and  airy.  The  furnishing  and  appoint- 
ments of  the  best,  and  the  tables  of  already  well  established 
excellence,  while  every  convenience  of  a  modern,  first-class 
Hotel  pertains  to  the  House. 

A  fine  Billiard  Hall  and  first-class  Livery  connected  with 
the  House.  Coaches  at  all  the  Steam-boat  Landings  and  R. 
R.  Stations. 


218 


ADVERTISEMENT. 


NEW    AIR   LINE   FROM   BOSTON   TO    MONTREAL. 


A  BIRD^S  EYE  VIEW  OF  THE  ROUTE. 
/ 


I 


The  completion  of  the  South-Eastern  Railway,  from  New- 
port, Vt.,  to  Montreal,  forms  the  finishing  link  in  an  air  line 
railway  route  fi'om  Boston  to  Montreal,  and  places  before 
both  business  men  and  pleasure  travelers  unprecedented  and 
unrivalled  advantages  for  travel  between  the  commercial 
centres  of  New  England  and  the  New  Dominion.  To  the 
advantages  of  the  shortest  distance  and  the  quickest  time, 
without  which  no  line  can  successfully  compete  for  travel  in 
this  age,  is  added  the  special  charm  of  passing  through  the 
most  beautiful  and  picturesque  portions  of  New  England,  or, 
indeed,  of  the  American  continent. 

Leaving  Boston,  upon  the  Boston,  Lowell  and  Nashua  rail- 
road, from  the  largest  and  finest  passenger  station  in  New 
England,  the  traveler  enjoys  a  ride  through  the  charming 
suburban  cities  and  towns  of  Cambridge,  Somerville,  Med- 
ford  and  Winchester,  passes  through  Lowell,  the  far-famed 
'*  city  of  spindles,"  up  the  busy  and  cultivated  valley  of  the 
Merrimack,  and  over  the  Concord  railroad  through  Nasliua, 
Manchester  and  Suncook,  the  leading  manufacturing  places 
in  New  Hampshire,  to  Concord.  Here  the  Boston,  Concord 
and  Montreal  railroad  is  taken,  and  after  passing  along  the 
shores  of  the  beautiful  Lake  Winnipesaukee  through  the 
Pemigewasset  valley,  and  almost  under  the  towering  cliffs  of 
the  White  Mountains,  the  valley  of  the  Upper  Connecticut  is 
reached  at  Wells  River,  Vt.  From  Wells  River  to  Newport, 
Vt.,  over  the  Passumpsic  railroad  and  through  the  Connecti- 
cut and  Passumpsic  valleys,  there  is  a  rapid  succession  of 
beautiful  river,  mountain  and  lake  views,  which  are  nowhere 
excelled  upon  this  continent,  and  which  are  scarcely  second 
to  the  finest  natural  scenery  of  the  Old  World. 

The  beautiful  farming  and  manufacturing  villages  nestling 
among^the  mountains  and  on  the  fertile  banks  of  the  swift  run- 
ning streams,  with  the  background  of  rugged  mountain 
scenery,  form  a  picture  which  none  but  the  Omnipotent 
Artist  could  paint,  and  each  successive  mile  is  only  a  new 


ADVERTISEMENT. 


219 


revelation  of  tho  magnificent  grandeur  of  Northern  New 
England  scenery. 

At  Newport  there  is  the  charming  Lake  Memphremagog, 
the  queen  of  Vermont  lakes,  and  lovers  of  the  picturesque 
in  Nature  will  find  a  longer  or  a  shorter  tarry  at  the  hospi- 
table Memphremagog  House,  with  sails  upon  the  lake,  and 
walks  and  drives  about  it,  a  most  delightful  and  invigorating 
experience. 

From  Newport  to  Montreal  the  route  lies  over  the  recently 
completed  and  opened  South-eastern  railway,  which  skirts 
along  the  shores  of  Lake  Memphremagog,  in  sight  of  Jay 
Peak  and  other  lofty  mountains,  and  through  the  most  at- 
tractive inland  portions  of  Lower  Canada,  until  the  world- 
renowned  Victoria  bridge  is  entered  and  crossed,  and  the 
beautiful  city  of  Montreal,  the  commercial  metropolis  of  the 
Dominion,  is  reached. 

This  brief  reference  to  some  of  the  more  notable  features 
of  the  natural  scenery  along  the  route  gives  but  a  faint  idea 
of  the  wealth  of  picturesque  beauty  which  Nature  has  lav- 
ished upon  the  country  traversed  by  this  line  of  roads,  and 
no  one  has  seen  New  England  scenery  at  its  best  until  he  has 
passed  through  these  valleys  and  along^hese  lake  shores  and 
mountain  sides,which  have  been  hastily  sketched  above.  The 
advantages  of  cheap  excursion  rates  for  such  a  line  of  travel 
as  this,  will  easily  commend  themselves  alike  to  those  who 
travel  for  business  or  pleasure,  and  when  it  is  added  that 
arrangements  have  been  made  for  cheap  excursion  rates  to 
the  white  Mountains,  over  the  White  Mountains  railroad  to 
the  Fabyan  House,  and  up  the  famous  Mount  Washington 
railway,  to  Niagara  Falls,  Quebec,  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence, 
the  Saguenay,  the  Thousand  Isles,  Lakes  George  and  Cham- 
plain,  and  the  Hudson  River,  the  advantages  or  this  line  over 
any  and  all  others  will  be  easily  apparent. 

Two  through  *^r»ins  will  run  daily  during  the  season,  be- 
tween Boston  ak  u  Montreal,  one  leaving  in  the  morning,  and 
the  other  in  the  early  evening,  and  all  the  trains, will  be  equip- 

Eed  with  Miller  platforms  and  Westing  house  brakes,and  will 
e  furnished  with  Pullman  cars,  parlor  or  sleeping.  The  day 
trains  will  stop  for  dinner  at  the  elegant  and  well  kept  Pemi- 
gewasset  House,  at  Plymouth,  N.  H.,  and  for  supper  at  the 
equally  favorably  known  Memphremagog  House,  at  Newport, 
yt.,and  the  managers  of  the  line  feel  warranted  in  saying  that 
no  other  line  of  travel  in  the  country  combines  so  many  and 
80  desirable  features,  as  this  one  which  they  have  now  opened 
between  the  chief  cities  of  New  England  and  the  Dominion 
of  Canada.  The  Boston  office  is  at  94  Washington  street, 
and  will  be  in  charge  of  a  gentleman,  who,  for  the  last  six 
years,  has  sold  tickets  to  American  travelers. 


*i 


'l! 


220 


ADVERTISEMENT. 


Commencing  Monday,  June  Ist. 


THE  &REAT  NORTERN  ROUTE  for  TOURISTS 
AND  PLEASURE  SEEKERS. 


THE  NEW 


Hostreal  &  Boston  Air  Lioo, 

Composed  of  the 

Boston,  Concord  k  Montreal  B.  B.,  Concord  to  Wells  River,  Passumpsic 
S.  R.,  Wells  River  to  Newport,  Vt.,  South  Eastern  Rail- 
way, Newport  to  St.  Johns,  P.  Q. 

Will  on  aud  after  June  let  run 

TW@)  FAST  i^^iiSS  TMKNS 

Composed  of  new  and  elegant  Cars  provided  with  all  modem 
improTements,  from 

BOSTOir  (Lowell  Depot)  to  ioutreai 

Where  connection  is  made  with  GRAND  TRUNK  RAILWAY  for  the  West. 


Entire  Trains,  with  Fnllman  Cars  attached,  mn  from 
BOSTON  to  MONTREAL  without  Change  I 

AND 

ONLY  ONE  CHANGE  TO  CHICAGO ! 


No  Route  flrom  Boston  presents  such  Magnificent  Scenery,  and  Passengers 
by  this  line  travel  through  the 

PABADISE  OF  THIS  CONTINENT ! 


ADV  ERTISEMENT. 


221 


A  continuous  and  most  charming  Panorama  of  River,  Mountain,  Valley 
and  Lake  Scenery  will  entertain  the  traveler  Tor  a  distance  or  250  miles, 
including  the  grand  views  of 

Lake  Wianipesauke  the  White  MouDtaia  Ban^e,  Passumpsic  Kiver  Valley, 
Crystal  lake,  and  the  BomaDtic  Lake  Mcmphreinagog. 

Trains  stop  30  minutes  for  meals  at  the  Pemigewassatt  House,  Plymouth 
N.  H.,  and  the  Memphremagog.  House,  Newport,  Vf.  (See  descriptive  inuitor, 
OD  the  two  previous  pages.) 

SI^JBCIA-IL.    INOTICE. 

TO  TOURISTS  and  PLEASURE  TRAVELERS. 

AT  OCR  QENERAL  OFFICE 

And  at  all  principal  Ticket  Offices  in  other  New  England 
cities,  there  will  be  on  Sale  during  the  Pleasure  Season  a 
variety  of 

Tourists  and  Excursion  Tickets, 

Made  up  in  entirely  new  combination,  including  all  Resorts, 
and  Points  of  Interest  throughout  the  Country. 

RATES  AS  LOW  AS  THE  LOWEST. 

The  Ticket  Seller,  at  our  office,  has  had  a  six  vears  experi- 
ence in  Canada, with  American  Pleasure  Trav^el,  and  will  be 
found  to  be  able  to  give 

THE  MOST  RELIABLE  INFORMATION. 

Call  at  our  offices  for  Birds-Eye  View  Circular  of  the  Line 

and  Time-Table. 

-       GENERAL    OFFICES: 

BosTOX,  94  Washington  Street;  Montreal,  202  Nt.  James  Srct; 

N.  P.  LoTEBiNO, Jr. GodM. Ticket  Agt:     Lrvh  A  Clvhk, Ticket  Ai^ts.,  Bo.ion; 
QuSTAVi  Lete,  Passenger  Agt. 

GORHAM,  MT.,  WASHINGTON  &  GLEN  HOUSE. 

Staoir  connect  at  Gorham,  N.  II.,  with  all  trains  on  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway  fur 
the  Olen  House. 

Staoib  leave  tlie  Glen  House  to  connect  with  all  trains  on  Iho  Grun<l  Trunk. 

Staobs  leave  the  Gleu  for  the  Summit  at  8  a.  ui., and  3  p.  m.,  dully ;  hiuvu  Sum- 
mit for  the  Glen  House  at  6  a.  m.,  and  2  p.  m. 

Staoxs  leave  for  North  Conway  and  Olen  Station  at  8  a.  m.,  and  3  p.  m. 

fixTBA  Stages  furnished  parties  on  application. 

W.  A  C.  R.  MILIKKN,  Proprittori;. 


iiii 


ill 


222 


ADVERTISEMENT. 


Through  Past  Express  Trains  1 1 


f  11  W§BT  BWMm  Eflfi 


TO  AND  FROM 


New  York,  ProTidence  and  Worcester, 


AND  THE 


WHITE  MOUNTAINS. 


SURE  CONNECTIONS ! 

EXCELLENT  ROAD  BED ! 

SPEED,  SAFETY  &  COMFORT ! 

Through  Express  Trains  by  this  line,  Tia  PROVIDENCES  WORCESTER 
and  WORCESTER  <&  NASHUA  RAILROADS,  connoting  at  Naahuu  with 
Through  Express  Trains  to  and  from  the  WHITE  MOUNTAINS. 


THE  ELEGANT  PARLOR  CAR. 

''  ClffY  ®F  WdEClSSll '' 

Made  expressly  for  this  route,  with  all  the  elegancies  domaoded  by    first- 
cIhrs  traTel. 
Passengers  for  the  Mountains,  from  New  Tork,  should  secure  tickets  via 

Providence  &  Worcester. 


WM.  D.  HILTON,  Superintendent* 
WM.  M.  DQRFEE,  Gen'l  Pass.  Agt. 


ADVERTISEMENT. 


223 


ns  1 1 1    NORTH  eONWAY,  WEST  OSSIPEE 


1 


-A.xro 


Centre  Harbor  Stage  line, 


a    nm    mta 


PrQfriuUfB 


Six  Horse  Concord  Coaches  leave  West  Ossipee  on  aiTival 
of  the  first  train  from  North  Conwaj^— passing  through  a 
continuous  and  most  charming  panorama  of  Mountain,  Riv- 
er, Valley  and  Lake  Scenery,  including  the  grandest  views  of 
the  White  Mountain  Range,  and  the  romantic  Lake  Winni- 
pesaukee.  Arrive  at  Centre  Harbor  (one  hour  for  dinner  at 
the  Senter  House  and  Moulton  House),  connecting  with 
Steamer  Lady  of  the  Lake,  one  hour's  sail  on  the  most  inter- 
esting, and  through  the  most  charming  scenery  of  Lake 
Winnipesaukee  to  Weirs,  connecting  with  Through  White 
Mountain  Express  Trains,  (parlor  cars)  for  all  points  in 
New  England,  New  York  and  the  West. 

Passengers  for  North  Conway  and  West  Ossipee  leave 
White  Mountain  Express  Train  on  B.  C.  &  M.  R.  R.  at 
Weirs,  Steamer  Lady  of  the  Lake  for  Centre  Harbor,  (one 
hour  to  dine,)  arriving  at  West  Ossipee  to  connect  with  Day 
Express  for  North  Conway. 

This  is  the  most  direct  and  popular  route  from  New  York, 
Boston  and  intermediate  cities  to  North  Conway. 

I^.  A.  I^.  BENSON, 

PROPRIETOR  OF  STAGE  LINE, 


Centre  Harbor,  N.  H. 


m  'ii 


June,  1874. 


224 


TIME  TABLE. 


Boston,  Concordi  Montreal  &  White  Mountains 


3R.A.IIjEyOA.I}. 


Trains  MdRtH-LEAVt 

Ex.  Train. 

Mail  Train. 

Ex.  Train. 

Moutre'l  Ex 

N.  Y.,  via  Fall  River,  titrs., 
Pier  28  Nortli  River 

5.00  p.  M. 

N.    T..    via   Now    London 

Strs.,  Pier  40  N.  River. . . . 

6.00    •• 
8.10    " 
aS.OO  A.  M 
07.30    " 
11.20  p.  M 
12.40  A.  M. 

02.00  A.  M. 

a-i.OO    •' 
7.40    " 
aS.OO    - 
flft.50    " 
06.25    •• 
06.20    *« 
05.00    " 
n6()0    " 
a6.32    «♦ 
o'.OO    " 
0O.15    " 
o7.r5    " 
fl7.55    •• 
07.15    " 
flR.l<?    " 
O9..30    •' 
a825    " 
0IO.02    " 
10.:^5    •' 

New  York,  all  rail 

10  (M)  A     M 

Boston,  Lowell  Depot 

Boston,  B.  A  M.  Depot 

New  Haven 

12.00  M. 
12  0«tM. 

6.00  P.  M. 
5  00    " 

12..34    " 

TTartford  ••>• •••••• 

G.(K)  A.  M. 
7-5      " 

1 .17    " 

flnrlnirfl#1d  ...••• •• 

2  3.5    " 

Allvn's  Point 

Worcester {^^H;;- 

New  Bedford «.••• 

11.15    •' 

4  35    '• 

Providence    via    Worcester 

2  15    " 

**                     Mansfield 

1.20    " 

PrU  River 

11    15  A    M 

TAiiutuu  ....••••••••.••.... 

1 

1.50  p  M 

Salem.  .••..••••«..••«•••••• 

4.60    " 

b  Newburvuort 

11.90    " 

2  40   '• 

Portsniuuth  ..••.. 

6.10   •• 

*•  Tkivflr  .«>••>•■••>«••••■••• 

611.00   " 
612.34  P.  M 
1.00    " 
1.36    " 
1.06    « 
2.20    " 

3.05  " 
3.30    " 
3.36    " 
3.51    " 

4.06  '• 
4.17    " 
4.38    " 
4.42   " 
454    «» 

c6.18    " 

Haverhill 

63.30   " 

TjOWmII..  ..•••.....••••••••. 

7.00    " 

Niifihiin  ...••.•••••••••••••• 

7. 30    '* 

Lnwrence.  •.•.•.••••••.•••. 

6.05    " 

Miincheater.  •«••.••••...••• 

8.07    " 

c«— <■ 1*;:^::;: 

Knat  rjnncord.. ....•...•...• 

8.48    " 

10.45  A.  M. 
10.61    " 

11.09  " 
11.18    " 
11.30   " 
11.53   " 
11.58    " 

12.10  P.  M. 

8.45   " 
8.47    " 

Gauterburv 

8.57    *♦ 

Northfleld 

9.11    " 

Tllton 

9  25    " 

Laconin  .■.•.••••.•.>••««•« 

11.35 

11.40 

1152 

l.Oo 

2.00 

/6.00 

7.(K) 

3.00 

ti 
tt 

P.M. 
t. 

•( 

9  51    " 

Lake  Villnirp 

10.04    •• 

(f  Weira.  Steikiiiliuut.. ....... 

10.05   " 

Centre  Harbor....  {£;;^;^'; 
West  Ossioee • 

1 

,.,,,1 '. 

Nrtrth  PonwAV.  ............ 

Wolfuoro'.  • 

ij.ao  *• 
6. ("5   •♦ 
6.26    •' 
«6.40   " 
e7.35A.M. 
7.58    " 
807    " 
8.29    " 
9.16    " 

Meredith  VillHtrc 

12.20    " 
12.41    " 
12.65    " 
1.20   " 
1.41    » 
1.50    " 
2.14   •♦ 
2.68   " 

10.17    •' 

Anhland  

10.40    " 

Unnmev  ................... 

12  ao 

I.IO 

It 

11.16  " 

lATAilt  RllDlllAV.    ...«.>...... 

Warren 

1.60 

•  *  •  . 

12.04  A.  M. 

IlaTerbiil  uud  Nowbury 

tains 


ntre'l  Ex 


lU.UOA.  M. 
6.tM)  P.  M. 
6.00    '* 

1.37    " 
2.35    " 


4.35    " 

1.20    " 

Vl.16  A.M. 
1.50  p.  M. 
4.60    " 
2  40    •♦ 
6.10    " 
C5.18    " 
63.30 
7.00 
730 
6.06 
8.07 
8.46 
8.46 
8.47 
8.57 
9.11 
9  25 
9  5i 
10.04 
10.05 


t( 

M 

i( 

tt 

t( 

(t 
t( 
M 


10.17 
10.40 
11.16 


12.04  A.  M. 


BOSTOIT,  QONCOBP,  MONTRKAL  AWhITI  MODNTAINH  RAgROAP — COWCLOOro. 

TRAINS  NORTH— LEAVE      Ex.  Tniin.  ,  MtiTl  Traini     Kx.  Train.      Ex.  Train. 


Woodsville . 

Wells  River. 
Bath 


f  Arrive. 
(  Leave. . 


Lisbon 

North  Lisbuu 

Littleton,  arrive 

Profile  House,  arrive 

Wing  Road,         "    

Bethlehem,  "    

Sinclair  House,    "    

Twin  Mt.  Station,  arrive. . . . 

White  Mt.  House,     "    

Fabyan  House  "    

Mt.  Wash'on  Sum't  "    

Crawford  House,       *'    

Whitefleld,  "    

Dalton.  *'    

So.  Lancaster,  "    

i^noiHter {£e"m::::: 

Waumbeck  House,  arrive. . . 

Nortbumberland  Falls. 

Northnmb jrland,  arrive. . . . 
Oorham,  "    .  .. 

Qlen  House,  "    .... 

St.  Johnsbury "     .... 

"-port {tzz::::. 

i.i^toM...AtzZ::: 

Arrive... 

Leave  . . . 
Mimtreal  via  Piisninpsic  and 

South   E»8tern 

Montreil  via  Nurtbuui'laud 

arrive 

Quebec,        "      


2.38. 


Richmond 


3.22 
5.00 
3.37 
3.50 
4.25 
4  07 
4.16    " 
4.16    " 
6.30  p.  M. 
6.00    " 
4.00    " 


4.32 
6.00 
6.00 
6.18 
6.30 


3.26 

•• 

9.42 

4.00 

«( 

10.05 

4.06 

10.00 

4.20 

10.20 

4.35 

10.51 

4.60 

11.06 

5.05 

^11.16 

6.30 

1.00 

6.26 

gll.M 

6.S0 

gU.57 

6.00 

12J0 

6.46 

12.15 

6.00 

i< 

12.46 

6.00 

II 

1.00 

«.00  " 

6.43  •• 

6.66  " 

6.02  •' 


6.06  " 

8.00  " 

6.35  •• 

6.48  " 


3  23  P.M. 
5.03  " 
5.25  " 
9.00  " 
10.00  " 
2.05  A.  M, 
3.30  •• 
0.33  P.M. 


P.M. 
II 


2.00    " 
11.60  A.M. 
12.03  P.  M. 
12.08   •• 


y  12.2 1 

2.00 

12.36 

12.45 

4.16 

6.00 


9.00    " 
10.00    " 
2.06  A.  M. 
2.30    " 


6.31 

7  40 


A.M. 


b.30 

7.40 


1.65  *• 

215  " 

5.00  " 

6.30  •• 


9.20  '• 
8.46  •• 
9.20    " 


1.0U  A.  M 


iiiii    « 


1.68    " 


9.30 


aTbirty  minuted  for  itiniier  at  the  Pemigewasset  House,  Plymouth,  and  arrive 
at  Littleton,  Lancaster,  Profile  Hou<ie  (Franconia  Mountains)  Fabyan,  Sinclair, 
Waumbeck,  Crawford,  Twin  Mountain  and  White  Mountain  Houses  early  the 
same  afternoon,  and  Mount  Washington  House  (sumoilt  of  Mount  Washington)^ 
before  sunset.  Montreal  via  St  Jolinsbury  A  Newport  early  the  same  evening. 
No  change  of  cars.    Via  Nortliumberland  A  Qrand  Trunk  6.30  next  morning. 

dSteainboat  for  Wolfboro',  Centre  Harbor  stages  to-West  Ossipee,  rail  to  North 
Conway,  one  hour  at  Centre  Ha-bor,  for  dinner. 

cPassengers  by  the  accommodation  train  lodge  at  Plymouth,  and  proceed  at 
7.35  the  following  morning  arriving  at  Littleton,  Lancaster,  and  Profile,  Craw- 
ford, Twin  Mountain,  Fabyan,  Sinclair,  Waumbeck  and  White  Mountdn  Houses 
in  time  to  dine;  connecting  at  Northumberland  with  the  12:45  p.  M.  train,  Grand 
Trunk  Railway,  for  Island  Pond,  Montreal,  and  Quebec,  Qorham  and  Qlen  House 
arriving  early  same  evening.   /Supper. 

^Passengers  by  this  train,  leaving  the  Mountain  Houses  after  usual  breakfa.it 
hours,  connect  at  Northumberland  Junction  with  Q.  T.  R.  R.,  for  Olen  Houm, 
Montreal  and  Quebec,  arriving  early  the  same  evening. 

Blegant  Parlor  Oars  run  through  from  Allyn's  Point,  via  Worcester  and 
Nashua ;  f^om  Boston  to  all  stations  on  Boston,  Concord,  Montreal  and  White 
Mountains  R.  R. 

Oandueton  B.  C.  A  Jf ,  and  Wiite  Mmntains  R.  R'$. — .T.  S.  Russ,  David  Fur- 
gerson,  O.  W.  Bnstman,  L.  T.  Moulton,  T.  Robie,  0.  M.  Hinds,  B.  F.  Mann,  Qei. 
V.  Moulton.    49*  Otnerai  Offi,:e  5  State  Street,  Boston. 


W.  R.  BRACKET  Gen.  Ticket  Agt,  Plymouth,  N.  H. 


.'^li* 


Boston,  Concord,  Montreal  it  White  Mountains 


TRAINS  SOUTH— Leave 

I'Kx.  Train 

Ml.  Train. 

Mont'I  Ex. 

Ac.  Trin. 

Cl  00  A.M. 
c7  00  " 

NiKht  Ex. 

Ouolioc  •••••••••••••••• 

8  30  P.M. 
10  00  *• 

1  10  P.M. 

146  » 

MuuH  via  Northumb'ld 

ern  A  Pass.  R.  R 

Richmond...  {{jjt;!:: 

Island  Pond..  {^;rlv«: 
8t.  Johntbury* 

*   1*50  A.M. 
2  16   " 

6  00   " 

7  46   " 

"s'sd*"'* 

5  46  " 
9  00  " 

8  45  A.M 

3  46  p  M 

ClO  30  •' 
clO  45   « 
cl2  05  P.M. 

c2  00  •' 
MO  26  a.m. 
fell  26   " 

1  00  P.M. 
1  27   " 
3  08  •' 

0  00   " 

9  26    " 

11  34  " 

aOlAit  Home. ......••.. 

M  15  " 
M  36  " 

Northumberland.  June. 

9  00  " 
9  09  " 

8  00   " 

9  26   •• 



»'"  '       "                  Falls. 

12  00  P.M. 
1 

Waumbeck  House 

6  00  A.M. 

7  46   " 

7  59   " 

8  05   " 
8  18  " 
6  00   " 

"i'ih'p.M. 

1  30  " 

136  " 

1  49  " 

12  <J0  M. 

Rn    l^ancaHter ......•••. 

Dfklton ••••••• 

TVhitflfleld 

Crawford  House 

7  30   " 

7  00  " 

8  46  " 

9  00  " 
9  30  " 
9  30  " 
9  47   " 

10  10   " 

8  30  " 

10  30   " 

lit  Wash.  Sunimif 

Fabyan  House  Station.. 
White  Mountain  House. 

7  15   " 

7  30   " 
.  8  00   " 

8  00   •' 
8  18  " 

8  36   " 
7  00  " 

9  00  " 
9  13  " 
9  26  " 
9  41   '• 
9  55  " 

10  17  •• 
10  12   " 
10  44  " 

10  59   " 
1127  " 

11  38  " 

11  50   " 

12  00  M. 

1  15  P.M. 
1  15   " 
1  30  •' 
1  30   " 

1  60  " 

2  10  " 
100  " 
2  26   " 
2  39   •• 

2  53   " 

3  07   " 
3  26  " 
3  63  " 

Vwin  Mt.  Station 

Sinclair  House 

Bethlehem  .• 

Wine  Road 

Profile  House..... 

Littleton 

No.  Lisbon • 

Lisbon 

Bath 

Woodville....{i^j^^;j«; 

12  33  A.M. 

... •>.....) 

Wells  River 

... 

HaTerhill  &  Newbury.. 

East  Haverhill 

...*...... 

Warren 

12  03  P.M. 

144  " 

Wentworth 

4  45  " 

West  Runinev. ......... 

Rumnev  • 

Quinoy 

Bridgewater 

A12  45  •' 
.    1  15   " 

/)12  22  P.M. 
103   " 

6  28   •* 
6  48   " 

7  30  A.M. 

2  60  " 

Ashland 

1  17   " 

137   " 

10  16  A.M. 

7  20  " 

8  00  " 

7  46   " 

8  10  " 

Meredith  Village 

6  24   " 
3  00  " 

3  29  " 

Wolfboro' 

No.  Conway.. .. ...a..... 

10  16  A.M. 

7  20   " 

8  00  " 

1  00  P  M 

West  Ossipee 

Centre  Harbor 

7  30  '• 

8  26   « 
8  39   " 
8  44  '« 

8  67   •• 

9  07  •• 
9  25  " 
9  35  " 
9  68  " 

10  06   '• 
10  16  " 

Weirs,  (steanibont) 

Lake  Village 

2  00    •• 
214   •• 
2  19   " 

1  48  P.M. 

2  00   ♦' 
2  06  •* 
2  19   " 
2  28   •• 
2  40  '• 

2  48  ♦• 
8  20  " 

3  27   " 

6  33   " 
6  44   •• 
6  49   " 

Laconia 

4  00  " 

East  Tilton 

4  06   " 

Tilton 

2  40   " 

7  10  " 

Northfleld 

Canterbury 

Easl  Concord 

.. 

(  Arrive. 
Concord -i  Leave. . 

3  20  " 

«3  26   " 

3  40  " 

7  60   " 
7  50  " 

5  20  " 
5  30  " 

. ,               (.Leave.. 

3  40    " 

1 


tains 


Ijjht  Ex. 


8  46  P.M. 


9  00  •* 

9  26  " 

1134  •• 


•  •  •  I 

•  •  •  1 


12  33  A.M. 


144 


A.M. 


2  50 


3'i9 


Boston,  Concord,  Montreal  A  White  Moutains  Railroad- 
TRAINS  SOUTH— Leave 


MMni-hb8ter Ifiive 

Lawrence 

Nashua 

Lowell 

HarerblU 

Dover 

PortainontL 

Newliurypori 

oftleiii  •••••••••••••••••• 

So.  FramingbHin 

Taunton 

Fall  River 

Newport,  R.  I 

Providence 

New  Bedford 

Worcester 

Allyn's  Point 

Springfield 

Hartford 

Mew  Haven 

Boston  B.  4c  M.  Depot... 
Boston,  Lowell  Depot . . . 

New  York,  all  rail 

N.  Y.  via  Norwich  Liiii' 

Strs.,  Pier  N.  River. . . . 
N.  Y.  via  FhII  River  8tri< 

Pier  28  North  River.. 


iKx.  Train  Mt.  Train. 


3  58 
5  30 
4:^) 

5  30 

6  26 
6  17 
6  16 

6  66 
700 
615 

7  40 

8  20 
8  10 
8  20 
8  25 
600 

10  15 
8  15  '• 
126A.M 
2  40  " 
6  20  P.  M 
6  23   " 
5  25  A  M 


11 
ti 
ti 
II 
It 
It 
It 
tt 
II 
.1 
•I 
ti 
It 
It 
II 


4  20 
6  30 
4.'>8 

5  30 

6  26 
6  17 
6  15 

6  55 
700 
615 

7  40 

8  20 
8  10 
8  20 
8  26 
7  10 

1015 


Ac.  Triiiii 


8  30 


1  2«A.M 

2  40   '* 

6  20  p.  M. 
6  23   " 
6  25  A.M. 


5  00 


5  (H) 


5(K) 


9  05 
9  30 


10  26 


Kx 


coneliided. 

Train   Night  Kx 


1(»58   " 
12  16  p.m. 
1145  a.m. 
12  15  p.m. 
1  :«  " 
/3  00  " 


2  16 


135 
3  18 
4,46 
625 

3  30 

4  08 
200 


a  lb 
7  20 
830 
1  16 
1  15 
11  12 


6  10 

7  30 
7(X) 
730 

8  40 
10  10 
10  10 

9  30 
860 
8  68 

10  28 
1107 
1160 
10  80 


9  20 


11  3ft  " 

1  50  P.  M. 

2  50  " 

8  40  A.  M. 
8  30   " 
5  16  P.  U. 


aAlso  leave  Ql«^u  House  at  5.00  P,  M.,  Oorham  6.05  P.  M.,  via  NiTtbthumberland 
Junction,  arriving  at  Lancaster  8.15  p.  M. 

6Quebec  and  Montreal  Day  Express  via  Northumberland  Junction  arriving  at 
principal  White  Mouutuin  lIoiiRes,  in  time  for  tea. 

cTea  at  MemphrvmagOg  House. 

dNew  York  Kxpress  vIh  Na^<hua— Passengers  for  Worcester  Springfield,  Hart- 
ford, New  Haven,  Norwich,  New  London,  South  Framingham,  Providence, 
Taunton,  New  Bedford,  Fall  River  and  Newport  take  this  train. 

eVia  Lawrence. 

/Via  Concord  and  Portsmouth  Railroad. 

^Thirty  minutes  for  dinner  at  Pemigewassett  House. 

APassfngers  by  this  train  can  leave  Lancaster,  Littleton,  and  the  Mountain 
Houses  after  the  usual  breakfast  hour,  and  arrive  in  Manchester,  Lawrence,  Dover, 
Portsmouth,  Hampton  Beach,  Nashua,  WorcvKter,  Providence,  Taunton,  New 
Bedford,  Fall  River,  Salem,  and  Boston  in  time  for  supper. 

tPussengers  for  Dover,  Portsmouth,  and  Hampton  Beach  obangea  cars  at 
Manchester  for  Concord  and  Portsmouth  Railroad. 

PasHengers  for  Salem  change  cars  at  Lowell. 

Passengers  for  Fitchburg  change  cars  at  Ayer's  Junction. 

Elegant  Parlor  Cars  run  through  from  all  stations  on  Boston,  Concord,  Mon- 
treal and  White  Mountain  Railroad,  to  Boston  via  Lowell.  Allyn's  Point  via 
Worcester. 

Express  train  leaving  Montreal  via  Pussumpeic  and'  South  Eastern  at  3.46  p. 
M.    Sleeping  can  attached  run  through  via  Plymouth  to  Boston,  arriving  at  8.30 

A.M. 

Day  Express  leaving  Montreal  via  South  Eastern  and  Passumpsic  at  8:45  A.M.. 

i Parlor  Cars)  runs  through  to  Boston  via  Plymouth.  Connects  at  Wells  River  with 
Express  train  for  Littleton  and  Lancaster,  arriving  at  all  the  Mountain  Honsei 
before  sunset. 


J.  E.  LYON,  President,  BOSTOH. 

J.  A.  DODGE,  Supt.  C.  M.  WHITTIER,  Cashier,  PLYMOUTH.  H.  H. 

W.  R.  BRACRETT,  G.  T.  A. ;  J.  L.  ROGERS,  G.  F.  T. 


228 


ADVERTISEMENTS. 


MT.    WASHINGTON    RAILWAY. 


SUMMER    ARRANGEMENT, 


1874 


UPWARD. 

Leave  Ammonusuc  Station        -        10.30  A.  M.,    5.30  P.  M. 

DOWNWARD. 
Leave  Tip-Top  Station  -       -       -      7  A.  M.,    2  P.  M. 

KXTRA  TRAINS  will  I>o  run  for  a  reusunable  number  of  poHNongcrR  upon  hu it- 
able  I  otiCH  by  Mnil  or  T olc>);rapii. 

COACHES  to  atid  from  tbo  Railroads  and  Hotels  connect  with  all  regular 
trains,  both  at  the  base  and  Suuiniit. 

JOHN  W.  DODGE.  Manager. 

.  LAKE   WINNIPESAUKEeT 


'k 


ti 


ft 


THE  NEW  STEAMER, 

UDY  OF  THE  , 

Connecting  at  Weirs  with  the 

BOSTON,  CONCORD  &  IjONTRE^L  RAlLROi^D, 

Leaves  Weirs  for 

CENTRE  HARBOB,  CONWAY,  NOBTH  CONWAY, 
WHITE  AND  FBANCONIA  MOUNTAINS, 

At  11.50  A.  M.,  and  4.40  P.  M.,  or  on  arrival  of  the  trains  from  Boston.  Passen- 
gers leaving  Boston  by  the  7.30  A.  M.  train,  via  Boston  ft  Maine,  or  8.00  A.  M. 
Express,  via  Boston  and  Lqwell,  arrive  at  Centre  Harbor  ^sailing  over  the  most 
interesting  portion  of  the  Lake)  one  hour  earlier  than  by  any  other  route,  and  at 
Conway  same  evening;  or  by  the  12.00  M.  train,  arrive  at  Centre  Harbor  and 
Wolfboro.'  Passengers  from  New  York,  by  the  5,00  P.  M.  train,  via  this  route, 
arrive  at  Conway  next  evening. 

SAOaAOB  CBBCSBD  TBROUOB. 


RETURNma. 

Leaves  Wolfboro'  daily,  at  6.30  A.  M.,  10.15  A.  M.  and  3  P.  M.,  tonching  at  Dia- 
mond Island  four  times  a  day,  to  connect  at  Weirs  with  trains  );oing  No.  k  South. 
Leaves  Centre  Harbor  at  7.30  A.  M.  and  1.00  P.  M.  for  Boston  and  New  York. 

Passengers  leaving  Conway,  North  Conway,  Centre  Harltor,  or  Wolfltoro'  in  the 
morning,  arrive  in  Boston  or  New  York  1^  hours  earlier  than  by  any  other  route. 


S.  B.  COLE,  Captain. 


▼r 


ADVERTISEMENT. 


229 


A     FACT    WORTH     KNO^ArING. 


RECENT    VALUABLE     IMPROVEMENTS 

In  the  Construction  and  Voicing  of  the 

PRE8COTT     ORGANS 

Render  them  unexcelled  by  any  now  made. 
KBW    SOLO    8TOPS.         EL.FGANT    PANELED    CASES. 


Priees  very  low.     Special  terms  to  introduce  them  where  not  already  reprc^r  .ted 

MANUFACTURED   SOLELY   BY 

THE    PRESCOTT   ORGAN    CO., 
CONCORD,    N.    H. 

SEND  FOR  DESCRIPTIVE  CATALOGUE  AND  PHOTOGRAPHS. 


ptain. 


Note. — Strangers  visiting  Concord,  and  all  others  interested,  are  cordially  invited 
-to  call  at  any  time  and  examine  these  Organs. 

Office  and  Ware-rooms  nearly  opposite  the  State  House. 


230 


ADVERTISEMENT. 


DO  YOU  WANT  A  NEW  HARNESS? 

If  so,  befora   you]  buy,  consult,  either   in  person  or   by 

letter,  with 


JAMIE8  Jl.  HILL  S  et 

The  only  makers  of  the  celebrated 


If 


CONCOTU)  lAMESS, 

Which  are  the  best  to  be  had. 

All  our  Harnesses  are  made  by  hand. 

Every  part  of  each  Harness  made  in  OUR  OWN 
SHOP. 

Every  Harness  made  FROM  THE  BEST 
SELECTED  STOCK. 

Every  Harness  HAND-STITCtfED,  CUSTOM- 
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IF  YOU  WANT 

A  Fine  Carriage  Hamelss, 

A  Fine  Buggy  Harness, 

A  Fine  Driving  Harness, 

A  Fine  Hack  or  Coach  Harness, 

A  Good  Express  Harness, 

A  Qood  Store  Harness, 

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A  Good  Business  Harness, 

A  Strong  Work  Harness, 

A  Harness  of  any  kind. 

Send   ui  "your  urdern  at  once  |or  come  In  person  «nd  Bee  us.    Every  IInni''»fl  '. 
made  under  our  own  porRonal  ■uperviHiuu.    The  test  of  every  climate  from  Khh 
to  WeHt,  and  from  between   North  and  South  proves  them  to  lie  uiieqnall"d.     le 
sure  aud  see  MB  or  write  to  UB  before  you  buy.    YOU  CAN  SAVE  MONEY   AND 
(.ET  A  BETTER  HARNESS. 

For  prices,  circulars,  or  any  information  concerning 
Harnesses, 

11^  Please  read  what  they  say  about  the  Concokd  Har- 
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Address  JAMES  E.  HILL  &  CO.,  CONCOUD,  N.  H. 


ADVERTISEMENTS. 


231 


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DUPUY   &   DUPUY, 

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LARGEST  AND  MOST  COMPLBTB  STOCK  IN  THl  DOMINION 

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Repairing  neatly  and  promptly  executed. 

SHERBROOKE,  P.  Q. 

WELLINGTON  STREET.    . 

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232  ADVERTISEMENTS. 

U.  S.  CURRENCY  EXCHANGED  FOR  GOLD  AND  SILVER. 


v«  A«  fl« 

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WEIililNGTON  ST.,     -     SHEBBBOOKE,  P.  q. 


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DUSSAULT  &  ROBINSON, 


^JfD 


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WBUiIHQTON  SnilTy 

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LVER. 


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233 


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?ii 


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). 


CHARLES  SHELDON, 

JOHN  A,  SHELDON,       CHARLES  H.  SLASON, 

CHARLES  H.  SHELDON. 


234  ADVERTISEMENT. 

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ADVERTISEMENT.  '  235 

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Being  an  account  of  the  cheapest  and  best  method  of  spending  a  few  weeks  at 
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is  written  to  assist  those  who  desire  to  get  the  large<<t  possiMo  iiinonnt  of  recrea- 
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SUBJECT. 

Chocorua  Peak,  White  Mountains, 
Trenton  Falls,  New  York,    ... 
Upper  Ausable  Lake,  Adirondacks,    .    • 
Sngar-Loaf  Mountain,  Winona,  Minn.    • 
Natural  Bridge,  Virginia,       .        .       . 
Dismal  Swamp.  North  Carolina, 
Wharf  and  Shipping,  New  York  City,   ■ 
Near  Leeds,  Oreen  County,  N.  Y.,    > 
Junction  of  the  St.  Mary'd  and  St.       \ 
JoHeph's  Rivers,  near  Ft.  Wayne,  Ind.  j 
Indian  Rock,  Narragansett<^ay,    - 
Croton  Point,  Hudson  River,    .     .       . 
Wabash  River,  near  Yincennes,  Ind. 
On  the  Ilousatonic,  near) 

Stockbridge,  Mass.  J  •  •  • 
Lake  tiuorge,  New  York,  -  .  - 
On  the  Prairie,  .  -  .  -  . 
Hayne's  Falls,  Catskill  Mountains, 
Lake  Champlain,  from  St.  Albans,  Y t.  - 
Niagara  Falls,  -  .  .        . 

On  the  Susqurhanna,  near) 

Groat  Bend,  N.  Y.,  /         '       " 

Upper  Mississippi,  near  I      .        .        . 

Lansing,  luwa.  I      '        *        ' 

On  the  Peniigewassett,  1        .       , 
New   Hampshire,       J         *       " 
EvRiiHville,  on  the  Ohio. 
The  Meadows,  Orange  County,  N.T. 
Yosemite  Valley,  California, 


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lituhelwood. 

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payings 


isher, 
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66 


THE  SERIAL  STORY  OF  THE  YEAR, 

K-A.THERINE    EARLE," 

By  AsELiiri  Traftom,  Author  of  "  An  American  Girl  Abroad," 

Commenced  in  the  November  number,  is  complete,  In  the  hands  of  the  publishers. 

It  is  a  charming  love  story  by  a  gifted  writer,  and  we  predict  for  it  a 

wide  popularity.    There  will  be 

BRILLIANT  NOVELETTES  AND  SHORTER  STORIES  BY  BRET 

HARTE,  SAXE  HOLM.  REBECCA  HARDING  DAVIS, 

KATE  PfjTNAM  OSGOOD, 

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in  order  will  be  two  on  **Th«  Lone  Star  Btate,'*  and  three  on  "The 
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to  manuscripts  for  periodicals. 


I 


I  874. 


Great   International    Route. 


GRANDTRUNK. 

1377  Miles  under  One  Management. 


THE  GREAT  DIRECT  CANADIAN 

all  ani  Express  Eonle 

Between  the  Eastern  and  Western  States. 


GREAT    FREIGHT     ROUTE 

^   Between  Europe  and  North  America. 


459~  Several  Lines  of  Powerrul  Screw  Steamers,  duriiiK  the  summer,  mnke 
regulnr  tripH  between  Liverpool  and  Montreal,  and  lietween  Gltinguw  and  Mon- 
treal, there  connecting  with  the  GRAND  TRUNK  RAILWAY,  thus  forniiDg  the 

Most  Direct  Route  to  and  from  England  and  the  Western  States  of  the 


Union. 


Only  Two  Tranahipmentt  between  Liverpool  and  Chicago  or  Cfincinnati. 


•  Ooods  sent  through  in  Bond. 

JtSg'  The  cheapest  and  best  route  to  all  points  East  and  West. 

49*  Close  Connections  made  with  all  Connecting  Lines,  and  Through  Tickets 
issued  to  all  important  points. 

4^  Acceleration  of  speed  on  the  Express  Trains. 

JSSS'  New  Cars  on  all  the  Express  Trains. 

49*  Pullman's  Palace  and  Sleeping  Cars  are  now  run  on  Grand  Trunk  Line. 

49*  Fur  San  Francisco,  Sacramento,  Salt  Lake  City,  Omaha,  and  inturmediate 
|)lace8  on  the  Pacific  Railway,  the  Grand  Trunk  ia  tlie  must  direct. 

Splendid  Palace  Cars  are  now  run  lietween  Chicngu  and  i>aruia  without  change. 

49*  From  pa-ssengers  holding  through  tickets,  American  money  is  received  at 
par,  tor  Sleeping  Berths  and  Refreshments. 

Be  Sure  and  ask  for  Tickets  via  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 

C.  J.  BRYDGES)  manaffinir  Director. 

WM.  WAIN  WRIGHT, 

Oen.  Patttmger Agent,  MontreaL 


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